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https://archive.org/details/durlifeinchinaOOnevi_O 


SIAO-KWU-SHAN. 

(The  Little  Orphan,)  yiang-tse-kiang. 


Our  Life  in  China 


BY 

HELEN  S.  C. 


J 

NEYIUS. 


NEW  YORK: 

ROBERT  CARTER  AND  BROTHERS, 


530  Broadway. 
1870. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1868,  by 
ROBERT  CARTER  AND  BROTHERS, 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District 
of  New  York. 


TO  MY  HUSBAND, 

THE  REV.  JOHN  L.  NEVIUS, 

I DEDICATE 


THIS  NARRATIVE 
OF 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I.  paob 

Voyage  to  and  Arrival  in  China 7 

CHAPTER  II. 

Ningpo — Missionary  Work  commenced 21 

CHAPTER  III. 

Pootoo  — Glance  at  the  Religions  of  China 44 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Visit  to  the  United  States  — Return  to  Ningpo 67 

CHAPTER  V. 

Church  and  Schools  at  Ningpo  — Chinese  Women  ....  103 
CHAPTER  VI. 

First  Visit  to  Hang-chow  126 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Temporary  Sojourn  at  Hang-chow  167 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

'Missionary  Life  and  Occupations  — Views  of  Chinese  Char- 
acter— Arrival  of  Missionaries — Removals  by  Death  . . 200 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Visit  to  Japan 229 

CHAPTER  X. 

Visit  to  Japan  (continued)  261 


V 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XI.  page 

Incidents  in  Missionary  Eife  — Leaving  Ningpo 300 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Tirst  Summer  at  Tung-cliow 327 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Description  of  Shantung  — Incursion  of  the  Rebels  ....  348 
CHAPTER  XIV. 

Various  Incidents  at  Tung-chow — Cholera 378 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Work  among  Women  in  Tung-chow 400 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Tsing-wan-ts — Views  of  Missionary  Life  — Absurd  Rumors.  423 
CHAPTER  XVII. 

Illness  and  Death  of  Mr.  Rankin 446 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Last  Summer  at  Tung-chow  455 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Sojourn  at  Ningpo  — Modes  of  preparing  T'ea  for  Market  . 470 
CHAPTER  XX. 

Trip  up  the  River  Tiang-tse  — Leaving  China 494 


f PRUT  C El  TGI 


y\\\J  i t-iw  i up 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  L 


VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  CHINA. 

I remember  that,  in  one  of  my  earliest 
lessons  in  geography,  I was  told  of  a country 
directly  underneath  me,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  globe ; and  my  teacher  added  the  sage  re- 
mark, that,  if  I should  make  a hole  directly 
through  the  earth,  I would  come  upon  a very 
strange  people,  called  Chinese.  The  idea 
haunted  me.  Some  vague  conceptions  of  the 
“ pneumatic  express  ” dawned  upon  my  infant 
mind.  Would  it  be  possible,  I wondered,  to 
make  such  a small,  safe  tunnel,  and  to  glide 
swiftly  through  until  I could  see,  with  my  own 
eyes,  those  singular  men,  with  hair  braided 
down  their  backs,  and  grown-up  women,  with 
feet  no  larger  than  my  own,  whose  food  was 
“ rats,  cats,  and  puppies  ” ? 


7 


8 


OUE  LIEE  IN  CHINA. 


Well,  in  the  course  of  years  it  came  to  pass 
that  I did  go  to  China ; not,  as  I had  once  im- 
agined, through  that  extraordinary  hole  in  the 
ground,  but  with  my  missionary  husband,  in  a 
sailing  vessel  called  the  “ Bombay.” 

We  sailed  from  Boston,  on  the  19th  of  Sep- 
tember, 1853.  The  “ Bombay  ” was  an  old, 
India  trader,  neither  comfortable,  nor,  indeed, 
seaworthy ; though,  of  that  fact,  we  were,  at 
the  time,  fortunately  not  aware. 

Our  u state-room  ” was  on  deck,  opening  off 
the  dining  cabin;  in  size,  just  three  and  a half 
feet  wide,  and  not  quite  six  long. 

How  two  people  managed  to  stow  themselves 
away,  within  such  narrow  limits,  may  be  a mys- 
tery to  some ; but  we  did  it  for  six  long  months. 
Indeed,  it  was  a discipline  well  suited  to  prepare 
us  for  the  change,  from  the  ease  and  comforts  of 
home,  to  the  varied  experiences  of  missionary 
life. 

Though  the  ship  was  badly  provisioned,  I do 
not  think  we  suffered  in  consequence,  as  we  had 
a capital  steward,  who  made  the  most  of  the 
materials  within  his  reach.  Although  a voyage 
of  such  length,  even  under  more  favorable  cir- 
cumstances, must  necessarily  be  more  or  less 
monotonous,  we  were,  by  no  means,  unhappy. 


VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  CHINA.  9 


Our  captain  was  kind  and  obliging.  We  read, 
studied,  sang,  or  walked  the  little  space  of  deck 
in  front  of  the  house,  for  exercise;  and  thus,  by 
keeping  busy,  the  time  passed  pleasantly  and 
profitably. 

I amused  myself  with  my  guitar,  until,  find- 
ing it  prevented  the  officers  from  their  custom- 
ary sleep  in  the  daytime,  I was  obliged  to  give 
it  up.  We  were  both  good  sailors,  and  the 
“wonders  of  the  deep”  were  an  unceasing 
source  of  interest  and  pleasure.  I well  remem- 
ber our  first  storm.  It  occurred  just  as  I was 
recovering  from  sea-sickness,  and  I had  not  been 
on  deck  since  we  lost  sight  of  land.  My  hus- 
band insisted  upon  my  going  out,  — “It  is  so 
glorious  !”  he  said.  “ You  must  see  it ! ” And 
indeed  it  was  glorious, — far  beyond  my  powers 
of  description.  It  brought  vividly  to  mind  the 
beautiful  107th  Psalm,  — 

“ They  that  go  down  to  the  sea  in  ships,  that 
do  business  in  great  waters  : 

“ These  see  the  works  of  the  Lord,  and  his 
wonders  in  the  deep. 

“For  he  commandeth  and  raiseth  the  stormy 
wind,  which  lifteth  up  the  waves  thereof. 

“ They  mount  up  to  the  heaven,  they  go  down 
again  to  the  depths.” 


10 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


I know  of  no  sight  more  impressive  and  awful 
than  the  ocean  in,  or  immediately  after,  a storm. 
The  consciousness  it  gives  of  the  presence, 
power,  and  majesty  of  God  is  overpowering.  I 
have  often  wondered  that  a godless  man  can  en- 
joy it. 

Nearly  every  Sabbath  during  the  voyage, 
when  the  weather  would  allow,  Mr.  Nevius  held 
religious  services.  As  the  cabin  was  very 
small,  they  were  necessarily  upon  deck.  They 
were  attended  by  the  captain,  and  most  of  the 
sailors,  who  listened  with  attention,  and  showed 
at  least  external  interest.  It  seemed,  however, 
that  there  was  often  more  “ squaring  the  yards,” 
“working  the  ship,”  and  more  probability  of 
“squalls”  and  storms,  on  the  morning  of  the 
holy  day,  than  the  actual  state  of  the  weather 
appeared  to  indicate.  These  various  contingen- 
cies rendering  it  quite  impossible  to  secure  the 
quiet  necessary  for  public  devotional  exercises, 
we  were  not  unfrequently  obliged  to  omit  them 
altogether. 

While  off  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  we  were 
several  days  “ hove  to  ” in  a gale  ; and  numer- 
ous ships  near  us  were  in  the  same  condition. 
One  of  these  days  was  peculiarly  trying,  the 
ship  rolling  so  that  for  mere  safety  I was 


VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  CHINA.  11 


obliged  to  stay  in  my  berth.  The  door  to  the 
cabin  was  open,  and  thus  I witnessed  an  amus- 
ing incident.  When  the  ship  gave  a lurch 
unusually  violent,  out  from  the  pantry  rolled, 
not  only  plates,  dishes  of  all  kinds,  and  various 
culinary  utensils,  but  also  a barrel  of  pickles, 
which  emptied  its  contents  upon  the  cabin  floor. 
Oh,  such  a scene ! It  was  so  ludicrous  that, 
not  withstanding  the  wild  commotion  without, 
and  the  fact  that  it  was  rather  a catastrophe  on 
board  such  a poorly  found  vessel,  we  had  a 
hearty  laugh.  All  but  the  poor  steward ! I 
doubt  whether  the  risible  muscles  of  his  ebony 
visage  were  the  least  disturbed.  It  was  too 
serious  a matter  for  him,  poor  fellow ! He 
scrambled  hither  and  thither,  gathering  up  the 
fragments,  and  at  length  restored  order,  and 
succeeded  in  making  fast  every  movable  article. 

After  being  nearly  four  months  at  sea,  we  had 
a glimpse  of  the  island  of  St.  Pauls,  at  a dis- 
tance of  ten  miles.  Being  the  first  land  we  had 
seen  since  we  left  Boston  harbor,  it  was  invested 
with  wonderful  interest.  Again  and  again  we 
read  the  description  given  of  it  in  a nautical 
work  of  the  captain’s ; of  its  being  the  resort  of 
a few  fishermen;  of  its  having  one,  and  only 
one  object  of  interest,  namely,  a hot  spring,  so 


12 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


situated  that  one  could  catch  fish  from  a cold 
spring  close  at  hand,  and  toss  them  into  that, 
and  cook  them  there. 

On  the  30th  of  January  we  passed  through 
the  Straits  of  Timor.  When  we  came  on  deck, 
about  five  o’clock  in  the  morning,  we  were  mid- 
way between  the  islands  of  Timor  and  Ombay. 
The  sun  had  not  yet  risen,  and  mists  partially 
obscured  the  mountain-tops.  These  tropical 
islands,  clothed  in  richest  verdure,  with  trees 
and  plants  of  many  kinds  and  colors,  seen  from 
the  ship,  as  we  sailed  slowly  by,  seemed  almost 
too  beautiful  for  earth.  There  are  skeptics,  I 
believe,  who  aver  that  the  “spicy  breezes,” 
which  “blow  soft  o’er  Ceylon’s  isle,”  are  only 
imaginary;  but  I have  often  had  an  opportu- 
nity of  noticing  these  land-breezes,  and  I can 
say  from  experience  that,  though  very  soft  and 
balmy,  they  are  real  and  delicious,  like  the 
perfume  of  flowers.  With  the  aid  of  a spy- 
glass, we  discovered  numbers  of  small  villages, 
— some  at  the  water’s  edge,  and  others  far  up 
the  mountain-side.  From  several  of  these  islands 
the  natives  came  off  in  their  long,  narrow  prows, 
with  a few  articles  for  sale,  — nothing,  however, 
of  value,  — only  some  specimens  of  coral,  shells, 
and  birds.  The  latter  were  beautiful;  and  so 


VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  CHINA.  13 


many  were  purchased  by  us  and  the  men  on 
hoard,  that  for  a few  days  our  ship  had  something 
the  appearance  and  sound  of  an  aviary.  But, 
for  some  reason,  the  birds  did  not  thrive;  and 
before  we  reached  Shanghai  few  of  them  were 
living. 

One  morning,  at  daylight,  we  found  ourselves 
near  a fine  large  ship,  on  the  deck  of  which  was 
a lady  with  a spy-glass  in  hand.  She  had  de- 
scried me  also,  and  for  a long  while  we  looked 
at  each  other  through  our  glasses.  After  break- 
fast, a boat  came  off  from  the  stranger  ship,  with 
the  compliments  of  the  captain  and  his  wife,  and 
a present  for  the  “Lady  of  the  Bombay.”  As 
we  were  nearly  becalmed,  our  captain  and  my 
husband  returned  the  courtesy  by  going  on 
hoard  the  “Rose  Standish.”  They  found  her 
accommodations  very  good ; and  the  captain  and 
his  wife  were  cultivated  and  religious  people, 
and  exceedingly  kind.  I think  they  suspected 
that  we  were  not  very  comfortable  on  our  ship, 
as  they  invited,  and  even  urged,  us  to  make  the 
remainder  of  the  voyage  with  them,  as  their 
guests.  We  thought,  however,  for  several  rea- 
sons, that  it  would  be  better  to  remain  where  we 
were.  Our  acquaintance  with  this  Christian 
family  has,  to  me,  a mournful  interest.  Only 


14 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


a week  or  two  after  reaching  Shanghai,  Capt. 
Pearson  lost  his  life  in  assisting  to  protect  the 
foreign  settlement  from  an  attack  by  the  Chinese. 

After  leaving  the  islands,  we  were  still  sev- 
eral weeks  in  reaching  our  destination.  The 
weather  was  had,  and,  for  days,  our  captain  was 
not  able  to  take  an  observation,  so  as  to  fix  our 
exact  position.  On  one  of  these  days  we  passed 
a sunken  rock ; the  ship  scraping  it,  without 
other  damage  than  losing  part  of  her  keel. 
The  danger  was  great,  as,  had  we  gone  a few 
feet  further  on  the  rock,  we  had  probably  been 
wrecked. 

At  length,  the  muddy,  yellow  color  of  the 
water  indicated  very  plainly  that  we  must  have 
reached  the  mouth  of  the  Yiang-tse-kiang ; but 
the  fog  was  dense,  and  no  pilot  near ; so,  when 
we  came  to  shallow  water,  we  were  obliged  to 
drop  anchor.  I remember  well  the  appearance 
of  the  Chinese  junks  lying  near  us.  Seen 
through  the  mist,  they  seemed  immense,  and 
very  weird  and  phantom-like.  It  was  cold  and 
stormy ; and  our  situation,  without  a fire,  and 
with  necessarily  much  exposure,  was  exceedingly 
uncomfortable.  We  lay  for  three  days  at  an- 
chor, waiting  and  hoping  for  a pilot.  At  length, 
some  one  discovered  a white  flag  on  a small 


VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  CHINA.  15 


Chinese  vessel,  in  the  distance ; and  it  was  not 
long  before  it  had  brought  us  our  much-wished- 
for  pilot.  I cannot  express  the  interest  we  felt 
in  him,  coarse  and  grotesque  as  he  seemed. 
He  was,  to  us,  the  type  of  his  race,  among 
whom  we  had  come  to  live  and  labor.  He  told 
us  in  “ Pigeon  English,”  which  we  then  heard 
for  the  first  time,  that  the  rebels  had  taken 
Shanghai;  and  that  “ they  makee  too  muchee 
bobbery , altogether  too  great  a fighty  /”  The 
fellow  proved  an  incompetent  pilot.  He  three 
times  ran  our  ship  aground.  In  the  first  two 
instances  the  rising  tide  prevented  serious  con- 
sequences ; but  in  the  third  we  were  hopelessly 
fast  in  the  mud,  unless  we  could  secure  the  aid 
of  a steam-tug  to  draw  us  off.  Here  our  pilot 
ran  away,  and  left  us  to  get  to  Shanghai  as  best 
we  might.  We  were  still  several  miles  from 
Woosung. 

At  this  conjuncture,  a foreign  compradore’s 
boat,  from  Shanghai,  came  alongside,  and  a 
young  English  lad,  who  commanded  it,  came  on 
board  the  “ Bombay.”  He  explained  more  fully 
the  state  of  affairs  at  Shanghai,  and  gave  us 
some  scraps  of  news  from  the  outer  world,  to 
which  we  had  so  long  been  strangers.  He  also 
invited  my  husband  and  me  to  go  up  to  Shang- 


16 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


hai  in  his  boat ; assuring  us  that  we  would  thus 
reach  our  friends  before  dark  of  that  day; 
whereas,  there  was  no  immediate  prospect  of 
the  “Bombay’s  ” stirring  from  the  spot  where  she 
then  was.  The  opportunity  was  too  tempting 
to  be  refused ; so,  in  a chair  suspended  from  a 
spar,  I was  lowered — “ whipped,”  it  is  called, 
in  sea-phrase — from  the  deck  of  the  “Bombay” 
to  the  little  compradore  boat. 

The  banks  of  the  river  were  low,  and  the 
scenery  tame ; but  to  us,  after  being  so  long  at 
sea,  it  appeared  delightful.  The  first  few 
miles  we  enjoyed  most  thoroughly.  Then,  how- 
ever, night  came  on,  and  the  boatmen  positively 
refused  to  proceed.  They  were  evidently  afraid 
of  something ; and,  on  making  inquiry,  we  found 
that  between  us  and  the  city  lay  the  whole  im- 
perialist fleet ; to  pass  through  which,  especially 
in  the  night,  was  a perilous  undertaking. 

The  captain  of  our  boat,  the  only  foreigner 
on  board  except  ourselves,  was  a boy  of  sixteen, 
with  plenty  of  English  “pluck,”  but  with  little 
discretion. 

At  one  o’clock,  when  the  tide  was  strong  in 
our  favor,  and  the  full  moon  made  it  almost  as 
light  as  day,  we  again  got  under  way,  and 
proceeded  quietly  until  just  below  the  fleet,  when 


VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  CHINA.  17 


the  clang  of  gongs  from  vessel  to  vessel  gave 
warning  that  they  were  all  on  the  alert  for  in- 
truders. Our  little  “John  Bull  ” came  into  the 
cabin,  and,  placing  two  loaded  revolvers  beneath 
his  waistcoat,  exclaimed,  “I’ll  teach  them  to 
meddle  with  me ! They  shall  not  stop  my 
boat ! ” And  so  we  went  on  for  some  little  dis- 
tance, the  sounds  from  the  junks  becoming  more 
ominous.  Rockets  were  fired  upon  us,  some  of 
which  fell  either  on  our  boat  or  in  the  water 
close  to  us.  My  husband  now  thought  it  time 
that  he  should  interfere;  and  he  told  our  little 
captain  that  we  must  stop  at  once.  Almost  as 
soon  as  our  anchor  dropped,  a small  boat  from 
one  of  the  junks  pulled  towards  us.  It  was 
filled  with  dusky  figures,  each  holding  a spear 
or  sword  erect  and  glistening  in  the  moonlight. 
They  came  on  board,  and  would  at  once  have 
searched  the  boat  for  contraband  articles,  which, 
I think,  they  would  have  found,  had  not  the 
English  boy  thought  of  an  expedient  which 
caused  them  to  alter  their  minds.  He  told  them 
in  Chinese,  — which  we  of  course  did  not  under- 
stand, — that  I was  the  sister  of  a merchant  in 
Shanghai,  with  whom  he  knew  them  to  be  on 
friendly  terms.  This  falsehood  was,  I suppose, 
their  reason  for  not  detaining  or  injuring  us. 

2 


18 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


With  many  humble  apologies  for  having  stopped 
us,  and  most  polite  salaams,  they  went,  one 
after  another,  into  their  “ sampan,”  and  shoved 
off.  All  this  time  I had  been  standing  with 
my  husband  on  deck,  not  particularly  alarmed  ; 
but  I afterwards  found  that  the  shock  to  my 
nerves  had  been  very  great.  After  the  danger 
was  over,  and  we  had  come  to  anchor  close  under 
the  flag  of  the  English  Consulate.  I trembled  at 
every  foot-fall,  and  more  than  once  before  day- 
break, begged  Mr.  Nevius  to  go  on  deck  to  see 
if  we  were  really  safe.  The  strange  music  of 
cannon  on  the  city  wall,  where  a continuous 
firing  was  kept  up,  did  not  assist  in  composing 
our  minds  to  rest.  Altogether  it  was  not  a very 
delightful  adventure. 

It  was  only  a few  days  after  this  that  these 
same  imperialists  attacked  the  foreign  settlement ; 
in  assisting  to  protect  which,  our  friend  Captain 
Pearson  was  killed. 

The  pretty  chapel  of  the  American  Episcopal 
Mission  was  one  of  the  first  sights  which  greeted 
our  eyes,  the  morning  after  our  arrival.  Leav- 
ing me  in  the  boat,  my  husband  went  on  shore 
to  find  our  mission  families.  He  called  at  a 
house  near  the  chapel,  and  inquired  for  Mr. 
Wight  or  Mr.  Culbertson.  A lady,  hearing  the 


VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  CHINA.  19 


inquiry,  recognized  him  at  once  and  asked,  “ Is 
not  this  Mr.  Nevius  ? We  are  all  expecting 
you ; ” giving  him  at  the  same  time  a most  kindly 
welcome.  This  was  Miss  Emma  Jones,  of  the 
American  Episcopal  Mission. 

Mr.  Nevius  soon  returned,  in  company  with 
Mr.  Wight,  who,  we  were  grieved  to  learn,  was 
on  the  eve  of  embarking  for  the  United  States. 
The  gentlemen  brought  with  them  a sedan-chair ; 
for,  though  the  distance  was  short,  the  mud  was 
so  deep  that  it  was  almost  impossible  for  a lady  to 
wade  through  it.  That  was  my  first  experience 
of  a mode  of  locomotion  with  which  I afterwards 
became  very  familiar. 

The  Chinese  city  of  Shanghai  is,  compara- 
tively, a small  and  insignificant  one.  The  for- 
eign settlement,  although  not  then  as  large  and 
flourishing  as  it  has  since  become,  was  still  a 
place  of  much  importance.  We  were  surprised 
at  the  number  and  size  of  the  foreign  hongs 
and  merchants’  residences.  At  the  time  of  this 
first  visit  to  Shanghai,  owing  to  the  city's  being 
in  the  hands  of  the  rebels,  with  continual  fight- 
ing between  them  and  the  imperialists,  all  for- 
eign residents,  whose  houses  were  in  exposed  sit- 
uations, had  been  obliged  to  leave  them.  There 
were  three  or  four  mission  families  crowded  into 


20 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


one  house ; but  that  circumstance  added  materi- 
ally to  the  pleasure  of  our  visit.  It  was  before 
the  days  of  disunion  and  secession,  and  the  har- 
mony and  sociability  of  our  new  friends  were 
truly  delightful.  The  distinctions,  Northern 
and  Southern,  English  and  American,  seemed 
well-nigh  forgotten,  in  that  far-off  land.  All 
were  hard  at  work ; some  of  the  gentlemen 
preaching  daily,  others  translating  and  making 
hooks ; and  the  ladies,  with  a few  exceptions, 
were  occupied  in  their  schools,  which  at  that  time 
were  large  and  flourishing. 

We  remained  in  Shanghai  about  two  weeks, 
and  then  sailed  for  Ningpo  in  the  schooner 
“ Speck,”  in  company  with  the  excellent  Mr. 
Goddard,  a Baptist  missionary  of  Ningpo. 

A day  or  two  previous,  Rev.  Mr.  Wight  and 
family,  and  Mrs.  Coulter,  whose  husband  had 
died  at  Ningpo,  had  left  for  America.  Their 
ship  had  not  yet  fairly  got  out  to  sea,  and  when 
we  came  to  anchor  for  the  night  below  Woosung, 
we  found  ourselves  close  to  it,  and  soon  went  on 
board  to  pay  our  friends  a visit.  We  found  them 
in  great  perplexity ; Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wight  had  a 
family  of  small  children,  the  youngest  a babe  of 
seven  months.  The  child’s  wet-nurse  had  been 
left  in  Shanghai,  and  they  had  depended  upon 


VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  CHINA.  21 


two  goats  to  give  milk  for  the  baby  on  the  voy- 
age. But  even  before  they  were  out  of  sight  of 
land,  they  found  this  plan  did  not  answer;  and 
the  question  was,  “ What  shall  be  done?”  It 
was  risking  the  child's  life  to  take  her,  and  our 
coming  just  at  that  time  seemed  providential. 
Mr.  Goddard  urged  them  to  leave  the  babe  with 
his  wife,  who  had  previously  offered  to  assume 
the  charge  of  it ; and  we  also  promised,  very  will- 
ingly, to  take  it,  in  case  our  services  were  re- 
quired. “ Can  I,  must  I,  part  with  my  dear 
baby  ? ” exclaimed  poor  Mrs.  Wight,  the  tears 
streaming  down  her  cheeks.  It  was  a terrible 
struggle,  but  there  were  only  a few  moments  in 
which  to  decide  it,  as  we  must  return  to  the  boat. 
And  so,  although  it  nearly  broke  her  heart,  she 
gave  her  baby  for  a time  to  our  care. 

Taking  the  little  Annie  with  us,  we  went  again 
on  board  the  “ Speck,”  and  were  soon  out  at  sea. 
Two  Ningpo  women,  one  of  whom  was  Annie’s 
nurse,  were  with  us,  and  occupied  the  berth  at 
one  side  of  our  cabin.  The  nurse  proved  of 
not  the  least  use  in  taking  care  of  the  child,  as 
she  soon  became  deathly  sea-sick.  The  night 
was  stormy,  and  the  waves  being  short  and 
“chopping,”  the  “Speck”  rolled  from  side  to 
side  fearfully.  Mr.  Goddard  took  charge  of 


22 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Annie ; I would  gladly  have  done  so,  but  it 
would  not  have  been  safe,  as  I could  not  keep  my 
footing,  the  ship  was  so  unsteady.  During  the 
night,  a groan  from  Mr.  Goddard  made  us  aware 
that  he  must  be  suffering  great  discomfort,  and 
my  husband  called  to  him,  — 

“Mr.  Goddard,  are  you  sea-sick?  ” 

“Yes,  I am  sea-sich !:’  he  answered. 

Such  an  impatient,  querulous  tone,  from  such 
a good  man  ! We  knew  matters  must  be  get- 
ting desperate,  and  Mr.  Nevius  insisted  upon 
relieving  him  of  the  care  of  little  Annie  for  the 
rest  of  the  night.  The  poor  child  moaned  and 
cried  piteously,  and  it  was  indeed  a very  uncom- 
fortable time  for  us  all. 

Owing  to  head  winds  and  a very  rough  sea, 
we  were  three  or  four  days  in  reaching  Chinhai, 
which  lies  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ningpo  River. 
The  scenery  there  is  beautiful.  High  hills  on 
either  side,  with  the  walled  city  near  the  water, 
and  numerous  junks  at  anchor,  appeared  in  the 
light  of  the  setting  sun  that  Sabbath  evening, 
when  we  first  saw  them,  even  more  lovely  than 
they  really  are. 

As  the  “ Speck  ” could  not  get  up  to  the  city 
that  night,  we  went  in  a small  boat,  sculled  by 
a man  standing  on  a platform  in  the  stern.  It 


VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL  IN  CHINA.  23 


was  late  in  the  evening  before  we  reached  Ningpo. 
We  saw  none  of  the  ladies  of  our  mission  that 
night,  with  the  exception  of  Mrs.  Rankin,  our 
kind  hostess.  Mr.  Rankin  was  the  only  one  of 
all  the  circle  whom  I had  met  before.  He  had 
visited  at  my  father’s  house  some  years  previous, 
when  I was  but  a child. 


24 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  II. 

NINGPO.  — MISSIONARY  WORK  COMMENCED. 

Ningpo  Fu,  that  is,  “ City  of  the  Peaceful 
Wave,”  is  in  longitude  121°  22'.  Its  latitude, 
29°  35',  is  about  that  of  New  Orleans.  It  is  a 
large  and  important  place,  with  three  hundred 
thousand  or  more  inhabitants.  It  is  surrounded 
by  a substantially  built  stone  wall,  twenty  feet 
in  height,  fifteen  in  width  at  the  top,  and  twenty 
at  its  base,  which  is  in  pretty  good  repair,  though 
very  ancient,  and  in  many  parts  overgrown  with 
moss  and  plants.  I do  not  think  there  is  any- 
thing in  China  more  interesting  than  these  ven- 
erable city  walls.  That  at  Ningpo  has  a high 
parapet,  with  embrasures ; and  the  top  of  the  wall 
inside  the  parapet  is  a tolerably  good  paved 
road  either  for  walking  or  riding.  Near  each 
city  gate  is  a long  and  easy  flight  of  steps,  which 
can  be  ascended  by  horses  as  well  as  persons. 
From  the  wall  you  have  an  extensive  view  of 
the  river  and  plain,  the  former  filled  with  junks 


NINGPO. 


25 


and  other  smaller  craft,  and  the  latter  cut  up 
with  canals  intersecting  each  other  in  every 
direction. 

u The  plain  in  which  Ningpo  lies  is  a magnifi- 
cent amphitheatre,  stretching  away  from  twelve 
to  eighteen  miles,  on  one  side  to  the  base  of  the 
distant  hills,  and  on  the  other  to  the  verge  of  the 
ocean.  As  the  eye  travels  along,  it  catches 
many  a pleasing  object.  Turn  landward,  it  will 
see  canals  and  water-courses,  fields  and  snug 
farm-houses,  family  residences,  hamlets,  and  vil- 
lages, family  tombs,  monasteries,  and  temples. 
Turn  in  the  opposite  direction,  and  you  perceive 
a low,  flat  country,  but  little  elevated  above  the 
level  of  the  ocean ; but  the  river,  alive  with  all 
kinds  of  boats,  and  the  banks  studded  with  ice- 
houses, most  of  all  attract  the  attention.  From 
without  the  city,  and  while  still  upon  the  ram- 
parts, look  within  its  walls,  and  you  will  be  no 
less  gratified.  Here  there  is  nothing  European, 
— little  to  remind  you  of  what  you  have  seen  in 
the  West.  The  single-storied  and  double-storied 
houses,  the  heavy,  prison-like  family  mansions, 
the  glittering  roofs  of  the  temples,  the  dilapi- 
dated official  residences,  the  deserted  literary  and 
examination  halls,  and  the  sombre  Tower  of 
Ningpo,  are  entirely  Chinese.  The  attention  is 


26 


OUR  LIRE  IN  CHINA. 


also  arrested  by  ditches,  canals,  and  reservoirs 
of  water,  with  their  wooden  bridges  and  stone 
arches.” 

The  above  extract  from  Milne  gives  a very 
life-like  and  correct  picture  of  Ningpo  and  the 
country  about  it.  The  streets  of  the  city  vary 
in  width  from  four  to  ten,  and  possibly  in  some 
places  to  fifteen  feet.  They  are  well  paved,  and 
are  spanned  by  frequent  ornamental  stone  gate- 
ways, or  arches,  which  have  been  erected  to  com- 
memorate the  virtues  of  noted  persons  of  former 
generations. 

The  Ningpo  plain  is  devoted  to  rice  culture. 
It  is  irrigated  by  artificial  means  from  the  canals, 
and  at  certain  seasons  is  almost  covered  with 
water.  Vegetation  is  rank  and  luxuriant; 
and,  as  might  be  expected,  there  is  so  much 
malaria  in  the  atmosphere  as  to  make  it  very  un- 
healthy both  for  foreigners  and  natives. 

The  Presbyterian  mission-houses  are  in  a 
suburb  on  the  north  bank  of  one  of  the  two 
streams  which  here  unite  to  form  the  Tatsieh,  or 
Ningpo  River,  as  we  are  more  apt  to  call  it.  In 
one  compound  there  were  three  houses  occupied 
at  the  time  of  our  arrival  by  Mr.  Way,  Dr. 
McCartee,  and  Mr.  Rankin.  A little  chapel 
stands  just  north  of  Mr.  Rankin’s  house,  one 


PRESBYTERIAN  MISSION  COMPOUND,  AT  NING-PO 


MISSIONARY  WORK  COMMENCED.  27 


part  of  which,  next  to  the  chapel,  is  occupied  by 
the  girls’  boarding-school.  The  boys’  school 
and  Mr.  S.  Martin’s  house  were  somewhat  re- 
moved towards  the  north  gate.  Mr.  William 
Martin  occupied  a house  which  adjoined  our 
large  church  in  the  city.  Mr.  Quarterman,  the 
only  remaining  member  of  the  mission,  boarded 
with  his  brother  and  sister,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Way. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Knowlton,  American  Baptists,  lived 
just  opposite  us,  close  under  the  city  wall,  while 
the  dwellings  of  Dr.  McGowan  and  Mr.  Lord, 
members  of  the  same  mission,  were  on  the  city 
side,  some  distance  up  the  river.  The  other 
missionaries  all  resided  within  the  walls. 

There  was  at  Ningpo,  at  that  time,  a small 
but  growing  mercantile  community.  Nearly  all 
foreigners  lived  in  houses  constructed  after 
western  models,  and  better  adapted  than  those 
of  the  natives  to  secure  a free  circulation  of  air 
and  protection  from  the  heat.  Those  of  our  mis- 
sion had  been  built  with  reference  to  economy, 
rather  than  durability  or  comfort,  and  were, 
consequently,  in  frequent  need  of  repairs  and 
changes. 

The  Presbyterian  Mission  at  Ningpo  had  been 
commenced  about  ten  years  before  our  arrival. 
Dr.  McCartee  was  the  pioneer.  He  was  joined 


28 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


in  a few  weeks  by  Rev.  Mr.  Way  and  Mrs.  Way ; 
and  a few  months  later  the  mission  was  further 
strengthened  by  the  accession  of  Rev.  Messrs. 
Culbertson  and  Loomis,  and  their  wives,  and  Rev. 
Walter  Lowrie.  The  latter  was  one  of  the  first 
missionaries  sent  by  the  Presbyterian  Board  to 
China,  but  he  had  been  detained  for  two  years  in 
the  southern  ports,  before  finally  coming  to  live 
in  Ningpo.  His  memoir,  edited  by  his  father, 
the  Hon.  Walter  Lowrie,  contains  most  interest- 
ing accounts  of  his  voyage  to  China,  his  arrival 
there,  various  journeyings  by  sea,  where  he  was 
several  times  in  great  peril,  and,  finally,  of  his 
sad  death  at  the  hands  of  pirates. 

Mr.  Lowrie  had  been  absent  for  a time  in 
Shanghai,  engaged  with  Hr.  Bridgeman,  Dr. 
(since  Bishop)  Boone,  and  two  or  three  English 
missionaries,  upon  a translation  of  the  Sacred 
Scriptures.  He  was  obliged  to  return  to  Ningpo 
on  business  connected  with  the  mission.  As  he 
was  crossing  the  Hangchow  Bay  from  Chapoo 
his  boat  was  attacked  by  pirates.  They  sprang 
on  board  with  spears  and  swords,  striking  down 
all  who  attempted  to  resist  them.  Mr.  Lowrie 
seems  to  have  remained  throughout  wonderfully 
calm  and  self-possessed.  Unable  to  bear  the 
sight  of  the  cruelty  shown  to  the  poor  Chinese 


MISSIONARY  WORK  COMMENCED.  29 


passengers  and  boatmen,  he  left  the  cabin  and  sat 
at  the  bow  of  the  boat.  It  is  supposed  that  the 
pirates  feared  that,  should  they  spare  his  life, 
he  might  bring  them  to  punishment  by  reporting 
them  to  the  authorities.  Whatever  their  motive 
may  have  been,  they  discussed  for  a moment 
whether  it  would  be  better  to  kill  him  at  once, 
or  throw  him  alive  into  the  sea.  Deciding  upon 
the  latter  course,  two  men  approached  and  en- 
deavored to  effect  their  purpose.  Being  unable 
to  accomplish  it,  a third  came  to  their  assistance. 
With  great  presence  of  mind,  Mr.  Lowrie  re- 
moved his  shoes,  and  evidently  hoped  to  save  his 
life  by  swimming.  As  they  were  in  the  act  of 
casting  him  into  the  sea,  he  turned  and  tossed 
his  little  Bible,  which  he  had  until  now  retained 
in  his  grasp,  upon  the  deck  behind  him.  He  had 
been  seen  reading  it  a few  moments  before. 
What  words  of  comfort,  I wonder,  had  that  pre- 
cious book  afforded  him  in  this  hour  of  danger  and 
death  ! Perhaps,  “ Whosoever  loseth  his  life  for 
my  sake  and  the  gospel’s,  shall  save  it ; ” or, 
“ Precious  in  the  sight  of  the  Lord  is  the  death 
of  his  saints.”  Some  sweet  message  of  comfort 
and  love,  we  may  be  sure,  was  sent  him  in  that 
time  of  need.  He  swam  several  times  towards 
the  boat,  but  one  of  the  pirates  stood  ready  with 


30 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


a spear  to  prevent  his  approach.  Seeing  this,  he 
turned  away,  and  soon  sank  beneath  the  waves. 
His  devoted  and  attached  Chinese  servant,  who 
had  been  terribly  beaten  by  the  pirates,  succeed- 
ed in  reaching  Ningpo ; and  from  him  was  learned 
all  that  is  known  of  the  last  hours  and  death  of 
Walter  Lowrie. 

In  the  spring  of  1854  the  work  of  the  vari- 
ous members  of  our  mission  was,  as  nearly  as  I 
can  remember,  as  follows : Dr.  McCartee  had 
charge  of  a dispensary,  and  was  also  engaged  in 
other  departments  of  mission  work.  Mr.  Way 
superintended  the  press,  Mr.  S.  Martin  had  the 
boys’  boarding-school,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Rankin 
the  girls’  boarding-school.  Mr.  William  Mar- 
tin, I believe,  gave  himself  more  particularly  to 
book-making  and  literary  labors,  for  which  he 
was  peculiarly  fitted.  All  the  gentlemen  de- 
voted more  or  less  time  to  preaching.  Very 
few  ladies  at  Ningpo  paid  much  attention  to  the 
written  language,  — a knowledge  of  the  vernacu- 
lar being  fully  sufficient  for  conducting  their  mis- 
sionary labors  either  in  the  schools  or  among 
the  native  women. 

We  had  only  been  at  Ningpo  a few  days  before 
we  settled  down  to  the  study  of  the  spoken  lan- 
guage. We  were  fortunate  in  securing,  at  once, 


MISSIONARY  WORK  COMMENCED.  31 


the  services  of  an  excellent  teacher ; which  made 
this  employment  more  pleasant,  and  our  progress 
more  rapid  than  it  could  otherwise  have  been.  Mr. 
Du,  or  Du  sin-sang , that  is,  Teacher  Du,  was 
not  an  accomplished  Chinese  scholar ; but  he  an- 
swered our  purpose  none  the  worse  for  that. 
Previous  to  our  going  to  Ningpo,  the  spoken 
language  had  been  reduced  to  writing,  by  the  use 
of  the  Roman  letters.  Our  first  work  was  to  ac- 
quire the  sounds  of  the  language  as  expressed  by 
this  Romanized  system,  — neither  a very  long 
nor  disagreeable  task.  From  the  first,  I pre- 
ferred learning  the  language  from  my  teacher's 
lips,  rather  than  from  books.  Even  had  we  been 
supplied  with  grammars  and  dictionaries,  of 
which,  in  the  Ningpo  dialect,  there  were  none,  I 
should  probably  have  made  but  little  use  of 
them.  / 

It  was  not  many  weeks  before  my  husband  and 
I were  able  to  talk  a little  with  our  teacher  and 
the  servants ; and  we  became  so  interested  and 
absorbed  in  the  study  as  to  enjoy  it  greatly. 
But  then  came  on  the  warm,  debilitating  weather 
of  summer,  which  we  found  exceedingly  trying. 
It  was  impossible  to  go  out  to  exercise  after  the 
sun  was  well  up ; so  we  attempted  the  plan  of 
rising  very  early,  and  exercising  at  that  time. 


32 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Behind  our  mission  houses  are  paddy-fields, 
with  only  narrow  foot-paths  between  them. 
Walking  in  that  direction  was  too  disagreeable, 
besides  being  very  unhealthy;  so  we  tried  the  city 
wall.  Crossing  the  river  at  what  is  called  the 
Salt  Gate  Ferry,  we  entered  the  city,  and,  as- 
cending the  wall  from  within,  found  a walk  as 
quiet  and  retired  as  we  could  wish.  It  would 
have  been  truly  pleasant  had  not  the  weather 
been  so  oppressive,  and  had  «ur  strength  been 
greater.  Ah,  there  was  the  trouble ! Almost 
before  we  were  aware,  the  effects  of  a first  sum- 
mer in  a most  trying  climate  had  told  upon  us 
both.  I became  too  weak  to  walk,  and  then  my 
indefatigable  husband  procured  some  Chinese 
ponies  ; for  I could  “ never  get  strong,”  he  said, 
“ without  exercise.”  Oh,  those  miserable  ani- 
mals ! Even  after  this  lapse  of  years,  I think  I 
can  see  them,  kicking  and  springing,  running 
hither  and  thither,  utterly  regardless  of  my  feeble 
efforts  at  control.  It  was  not  many  weeks  before 
we  concluded  that  early  morning  exercise  at 
Ningpo  was  more  injurious  than  beneficial. 

At  the  end  of  eight  or  nine  months  of  hard 
study  my  husband  was  able  to  engage  in  chapel 
work,  — more,  however,  in  a conversational  way 
than  by  formal  preaching.  In  a little  more  than 


MISSIONARY  WORK  COMMENCED. 


33 


a year  he  took  part  with  others  in  missionary 
work  in  general,  teaching  and  preaching  as  cir- 
cumstances required. 

I find,  on  reference  to  my  journal,  that,  before 
the  close  of  the  year  1854,  I had  commenced  the 
work  of  visiting  among  the  women  in  their  own 
homes,  and  I had  the  satisfaction  of  finding  my- 
self understood ; though,  of  course,  my  vocabu- 
lary must  have  been  limited.  As  a general 
thing  in  these  visits,  I was  very  kindly  received, 
and  listened  to  with  attention.  This  was  not 
always  the  case,  and  my  patience  was  sometimes 
sorely  tried.  I had  gone  on  one  occasion  with 
Miss  Dyer  to  visit  a family  in  some  way  con- 
nected with  one  of  the  native  church  members. 
A slight  degree  of  familiarity  with  foreigners 
may  have  made  them  less  deferential  and  respect- 
ful than  they  would  otherwise  have  been.  Miss 
Dyer,  as  an  older  resident,  was  the  principal 
speaker.  There  were  four  women  present,  and 
about  a dozen  children,  some  crying,  some  play- 
ing ; and  this  confusion  reached  a climax,  when 
one  of  the  women  in  an  adjoining  room  caught  a 
rat , and  brought  it  in  where  we  were  sitting. 
After  holding  it  with  the  tongs  for  a while,  she 
tied  a string  to  its  leg,  and  kept  it  performing 
sundry  evolutions  upon  a table.  We  soon  left, 
3 


34 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


feeling  that  we  had  made  a complete  failure.  As 
this  was  one  of  my  first  visits  among  the  women, 
such  a result  I felt  to  be  very  disheartening. 

Another  day,  at  about  the  same  date,  taking 
with  me  my  ah-m  (the  name  in  Ningpo  for  a 
female  servant),  I started  out  to  visit  in  a differ- 
ent neighborhood.  We  first  went  to  see  my 
ah-m’s  mother-in-law.  The  old  woman  was 
very  ill ; and,  after  conversing  with  her  for  a 
short  time,  we  went  to  a neighboring  house, 
where  I had  at  least  twenty  women  and  children 
to  hear  me.  The  tax  upon  my  voice  in  speaking 
to  so  many  was  very  great ; but  I was  much  en- 
couraged to  find  myself  well  understood,  and  able 
to  command  their  attention. 

A week  later  I visited  the  same  places.  I did 
not  think  the  circumstances  quite  so  favorable, 
and  for  some  reason  I spoke  less  freely.  But  my 
ah-m  was  sure  I was  understood.  I found  the 
old  woman  mentioned  above  very  weak  and  able 
to  speak  but  little;  but  she  said,  the  doctrine 
was  good,  and  she  believed  in  Jesus.  This  was 
but  a day  or  two  before  her  death.  Possibly 
some  ray  of  light  had  penetrated  her  darkened 
mind,  and  Jesus  may  have  revealed  himself 
to  her  before  he  called  her  hence.  At  least, 
it  cannot  be  wrong  to  hope  that  such  was 


MISSIONARY  WORK  COMMENCED. 


35 


the  case.  We  had  just  started  for  home,  when 
a man  invited  us  to  go  to  his  house  and  teach, 
literally,  “talk  the  doctrine.”  Thinking  I 
might  not  have  another  so  favorable  opportu- 
nity, we  went  back  and  had  a pleasant  visit. 
They  invited  us  very  cordially  to  come  again. 

These  incidents  are  given  merely  as  specimens 
of  this  kind  of  work.  The  visits  here  referred 
to  were  all  among  the  poorer  classes ; but  our 
attention  was  not  confined  to  them.  As  oppor- 
tunities offered,  and  other  duties  would  allow, 
I made  an  effort  to  reach  the  women  in  the 
more  respectable  and  influential  families.  Here, 
too,  I was  almost  always  received  very  politely, 
and  listened  to  with  attention,  and  cordially  in- 
vited to  repeat  my  visits.  The  other  ladies  in 
the  Presbyterian  Mission,  and  in  the  others  as 
well,  were  also  in  the  habit  of  visiting  more  or 
less  among  the  women.  I mention  my  own  ex- 
periences only  because  they  are  all  with  which  I 
am  familiar. 

The  girls’  boarding-school,  at  the  time  of  our 
going  to  Ningpo,  was  in  charge  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Rankin ; but  Mrs.  McCartee  came  every  day  to 
teach  in  it. 

Much  of  the  time,  both  of  missionary  ladies 
and  gentlemen,  was  taken  up  in  entertaining 


36 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Chinese  guests ; though,  on  account  of  our  some- 
what isolated  situation  on  North  Bank,  we  had 
fewer  of  such  interruptions  than  they  who  lived 
within  the  city ; not,  indeed,  as  many  as  we  de- 
sired. One  old  woman,  with  whom  I frequently 
exchanged  visits,  was  the  type  of  a numerous 
class  in  China.  She  was  a strict  religionist,  and 
as  perfect  a Pharisee  as  I ever  met.  She  was  so 
complacent  and  self-satisfied  that  it  seemed  im- 
possible to  make  any  impression  upon  her.  She 
had  fasted  from  animal  food  for  eighteen  years  ; 
had  spent  much  time  and  money  in  worshipping 
in  the  temples  ; and  in  various  ways  had  accumu- 
lated a great  store  of  merit  for  the  future  world. 
I remember  on  one  occasion  when  she  was  visit- 
ing me,  we  were  talking  of  sin , of  the  evil  of  our 
owTn  natures,  etc.  “No,  no!”  she  exclaimed, 
“ my  heart  is  not  sinful.  It  is  perfectly  pure  and 
clean,  — as  white  as  the  snow.  You  may  ask  my 
neighbors  if  I have  ever  done  anything  wrong.” 
Speaking  of  the  transmigration  of  souls,  she 
said,  “ That  must  be  so,  or  where  would  all 
the  people  constantly  being  born  into  the  world 
get  their  souls  from?”  The  case  of  this  old 
woman  was  most  distressing.  Months  after  this, 
when  I went  to  see  her,  I found  her  very  ill. 
She  was  scarcely  able  to  sit  up,  yet  was  engaged 


MISSIONARY  WORK  COMMENCED.  37 


in  the  idolatrous  practice  of  “ feeding  the  hun- 
gry spirits,  or  demons.”  When  I made  some  al- 
lusion to  the  spread  table  and  burning  candles, 
she  remarked,  very  coldly,  “You  have  your 
customs,  and  we  have  ours.”  While  I was  in 
her  room  she  set  fire  to  an  urn  of  tinsel  paper, 
made  into  representations  of  silver  ingots.  In 
this  way  it  is  supposed  to  be  converted  into  the 
money  currency  used  in  the  world  of  spirits.  I 
think  her  object  in  burning  it  in  my  presence  was 
to  show  her  indifference  to  me  and  to  our  holy 
religion.  I visited  her  not  long  after,  when  she 
was  upon  her  dying-bed.  Her  mind  was  dark,  and 
her  body  racked  with  pain.  I spoke  to  her  of 
Jesus,  and  again  urged  her  to  put  her  trust  in 
him.  “ If  Jesus  will  restore  me  to  health,  then 
I will  believe  in  him,”  was  her  only  answer.  I 
never  saw  her  again. 

During  my  second  year,  I had  a number  of 
women  who  came  to  me  on  Sabbath  afternoons. 
They  were  mostly  from  the  neighborhood.  I 
tried  to  teach  them  faithfully ; but  I never  had 
the  pleasure  of  knowing  that  they  were  benefited 
by  it.  Other  ladies  in  Ningpo  had  similar 
classes.  Of  late  years,  and  since  I left  Ningpo, 
a plan  has  been  adopted  of  gathering  large  num- 
bers of  women  together  in  industrial  classes,  giv- 


38 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


ing  them  work  and  religious  instruction  at  the 
same  time.  I believe  they  have  been  very  suc- 
cessful. They  were  commenced  by  Mrs.  Morri- 
son, of  our  mission,  assisted  by  some  of  the  native 
Christian  women. 

Among  the  many  pleasant  memories  of  those 
early  days  in  Ningpo,  one  of  the  sweetest  will 
always  be  connected  with  Mrs.  Gough,  of  the 
English  Church  Mission.  I think  she  was  con- 
sidered by  all  who  knew  her  an  almost  fault- 
less character.  She  was  a most  earnest  worker. 
I remember  that  at  one  time  she  was  connected 
with  three  different  schools,  giving  some  time 
daily  to  each.  The  climate  of  Ningpo  proved 
very  trying  to  her  health ; and,  before  many  years 
had  passed,  she  was  obliged  to  return  to  her 
native  land.  She  lived  to  reach  London,  but  died 
very  soon  after.  Though  thus  early  called  to  her 
rest,  she  had  not  lived  in  vain.  The  influence  of 
her  lovely  spirit  and  example  will  long  remain 
with  those  who  knew  her. 

Mrs.  Knowlton,  of  the  Baptist  Mission,  who 
with  her  husband  reached  Ningpo  only  a few 
weeks  after  we  did,  early  commenced  her  labors 
among  the  women  of  her  own  church,  and  others. 
Through  all  these  years,  though  suffering  from 
constant  physical  weakness,  and  frequent  ill- 


MISSIONARY  WORK  COMMENCED.  39 


nesses,  she  has  been  working  on  bravely,  a de- 
voted helper  to  her  laborious  and  self-denying 
husband. 

When  I look  back  to  our  early  life  in  Ningpo, 
I feel  that  we  were  indeed  privileged,  to  have 
been  associated  with  such  a noble  band  of  men 
and  women.  Besides  our  two  American  Mis- 
sions, the  Presbyterian  and  Baptist,  there  were 
several  most  excellent  members  of  the  Church  of 
England,  and  also  of  other  denominations.  It 
was  truly  pleasant  to  see  the  general  harmony 
and  affection  which  existed  among  all  these.  We 
met  constantly  in  prayer-meetings,  and  socially ; 
and  pulpits  were  sometimes  exchanged.  I do 
not  mean  to  say  that  any  of  us  did  not  feel  oc- 
casionally troubled  at  not  being  able  to  see  “eye 
to  eye”  in  some  matters  which  to  us  seemed  im- 
portant; but  it  was  generally  agreed  to  leave 
those  disputed  points  undisturbed.  We  felt  that 
we  were  truly  one  in  all  essentials,  and,  surround- 
ed as -we  were  by  the  darkness  of  heathenism, 
differences  of  church  government,  or  forms  of 
worship,  or  even  some  slight  variations  in  doc- 
trine, were  realized  to  be  comparatively  unim- 
portant. We  had  too  much  work  to  do  to  be 
able  to  spend  our  time  contending  for  trifles. 

When  I had  been  six  months  in  Ningpo,  I 


40 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


commenced  teaching  singing  to  the  pupils  in  oui 
two  boarding-schools.  There  were,  I think, 
about  forty  boys  and  thirty  girls  ; and  these,  to- 
gether with  some  others,  assembled  twice  a week 
in  the  chapel.  I had  a black-board  made  with 
lines  for  writing  music,  which  was  of  great  as- 
sistance, as  we  had  no  music-books.  The  first 
step  in  this  formidable  undertaking  was  to  get 
them  to  make  one  sound  in  unison.  After  ex- 
plaining the  matter,  I said  to  them,  “Now  listen 
attentively  to  me,  and  then  make  the  same  sound 
precisely.”  They  tried  to  obey:  but  some  were 
one,  some  three,  and  some  four  or  five  notes 
astray  ; probably  every  tone  and  half-tone  in  the 
octave  had  its  representative.  “Very  well,” 
said  I ; “ but  I think  you  can  improve  on  that.” 
Then  I made  a high  tone  and  a low  one,  to  show 
them  the  difference,  and  again  explained  that 
what  I wished  was  that  they  should  as  nearly 
as  possible  imitate  me.  Again  I sounded  “ Do,” 
prolonging  the  sound  that  they  might  more 
easily  catch  it.  Again  they  essayed,  and  this 
time  with  much  better  success;  for  I do  not 
think  the  voices  ranged  over  more  than  five  or 
six  tones.  Nearly  the  whole  two  hours  were 
spent  in  the  attempt  to  make  one  sound  in  uni- 
son. At  our  next  meeting  we  succeeded  in 


MISSIONARY  WORK  COMMENCED.  41 


making  the  one  sound  quite  accurately,  and  then 
added  a second,  — do-re,  do-re,  re-do,  re-do,  — we 
said  or  sang,  until  our  patience  was  exhausted ; 
and  then  added  a third.  When  they  had  gained 
an  idea  of  what  was  meant  by  tones  and  inter- 
vals, I wrote  the  notes  on  the  black-board. 

The  Chinese  learn  to  read  notes  very  readily, 
and  I am  persuaded  that  the  most  practicable 
method  for  teaching  them  a foreign  system  of 
music  is  that  which  I was  led  to  adopt.  For 
the  first  three  months  we  did  little  else  but 
practise  the  scale,  which  they  at  length  so  com- 
pletely mastered  as  to  be  able  to  strike  accu- 
rately, and  without  assistance,  not  only  the  natural 
intervals,  but  every  other ; as,  for  instance,  from 
one  to  four,  one  to  seven,  and  vice  versa.  I 
gave  them  simple  exercises  written  on  the  black- 
board ; and  when  some  of  the  airs  I had  known 
from  infancy  were  reproduced,  from  Chinese  lips, 
with  correctness  of  time  and  a good  degree  of 
melody,  I felt  much  gratified,  and  very  hopeful 
for  the  future.  I did  not  confine  them  to  singing 
the  usual  do-re-me,  etc.,  but  early  substituted  a 
single  syllable,  and  from  that  again  we  easily  slid 
into  words.  I divided  the  class  into  different  sets 
for  the  different  parts,  so  soon  as  I had  discovered 
to  which  the  voices  were  naturally  adapted;  and 


42 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


in  the  course  of  six  or  eight  months  had  a good 
choir,  capable  of  carrying  all  four  parts,  soprano, 
alto,  tenor,  and  bass;  and  the  accuracy  with  which 
they  sang,  considering,  of  course,  all  the  circum- 
stances, was  most  remarkable.  From  the  first, 
I taught  them  to  “ beat  time,”  and  they  became 
so  accustomed  to  the  practice,  that  even  when 
singing  by  themselves,  just  for  their  own  amuse- 
ment, I used  to  notice  them  going  through  the 
motions  ; not  as  I had  intended,  with  a slight 
movement  of  the  hand,  but  with  the  whole  arm 
below  the  elbow,  down,  up ; down,  left,  right,  up, 
as  the  measure  happened  to  be. 

Never  forgetting  that  the  main  object  in 
teaching  them  was  to  enable  them  to  praise  God 
in  the  sanctuary,  as  soon  as  I thought  they 
were  equal  to  it  they  learned  church  tunes. 
One  of  the  first  of  these  was  a plaintive  old  air, 
which  I had  always  loved,  called,  in  America, 
“ Bartimeus,”  and  usually  sung  to  the  words 
commencing  “Mercy,  0 thou  Son  of  David  ! ” 
We  had  in  Ningpo  a translation  of  that  hymn, 
and  it  used  to  bring  tears  to  my  eyes  as  I listened 
to  my  Chinese  singing  it.  Another  tune  was 
Lenox,  which,  as  the  four  parts  come  in  with  a 
good  deal  of  irregularity,  was  quite  a trial  of 
skill. 


MISSIONARY  WORK  COMMENCED.  43 


I cannot  say  that  I think  our  style  of  music 
is  exactly  suited  to  the  Chinese  language  or 
poetry ; but,  in  the  absence  of  anything  better,  it 
has  been  a source  of  much  pleasure  and  profit  to 
those  who  have  acquired  it. 

I may  add  that  the  native  men  and  women, 
who  are  now  at  the  head  of  our  out-stations  at 
Ningpo,  were  many  of  them  members  of  my 
singing-class  ; and  they  are  now  teaching  the  con- 
verts connected  with  the  churches  which  they 
are  gathering  from  the  heathen,  much  in  the 
same  way  in  which  I taught  them. 

Since  we  have  been  in  the  United  States,  Rev. 
Kying  Ling-yiu  sent  me  a kind  message  in  a let- 
ter to  my  husband.  “ Tell  Mrs.  Nevius,”  he 
said,  “that  she  is  still  teaching  music  in  China, 
through  us.  I am  teaching  our  men,  and  my 
wife  the  women.” 


44 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


r~ 


CHAPTER  in. 

POOTOO. GLANCE  AT  THE  RELIGIONS  OF  CHINA. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  year  1856,  I met  a 
new  and  most  unexpected  trial.  My  voice, 
which  before  had  been  strong  and  reliable,  gave 
way ; and  for  many  months  I could  neither  sing 
nor  speak  aloud.  My  general  health  also  be- 
came so  much  impaired,  that  at  length  my  kind 
physician,  Dr.  Parker,  gave  it  as  his  opinion  that 
my  only  hope  of  restoration  lay  in  a temporary 
return  to  my  native  land.  What  this  involved 
can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who  have  been 
similarly  situated. 

During  that  year  of  ill  health  almost  all  mis- 
sionary work,  on  my  part,  had  to  be  discontinued. 
Hoping  to  derive  benefit  from  the  purer  air  of 
the  country,  several  weeks  in  the  early  spring 
were  spent  among  the  hills,  twenty  or  more 
miles  from  Ningpo,  at  Tien-dong,  a Buddhist 
temple  and  monastery.  We  occupied  two  small 
rooms  in  one  of  the  back  courts.  Mr.  Nevius 


POOTOO. 


45 


spent  part  of  his  time  in  Ningpo ; and  Mr.  S. 
Martin,  who  was  also  sojourning  for  a few 
weeks  at  Tien-dong,  was  occasionally  absent ; so 
that  I was  sometimes  quite  alone,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  my  Chinese  woman  and  a man-servant. 
But  so  quiet  and  respectful  were  the  monks,  of 
whom  there  were  a large  number,  that  I felt  in 
no  danger  ; and,  except  for  the  intense  loneliness 
of  the  place,  should  have  enjoyed  my  stay  there. 

On  one  of  my  husband’s  returns  from  Ning- 
po  he  brought  me  a present  of  a beautiful  brown 
pony,  — horseback  exercise  having  been  recom- 
mended for  my  health.  This  pony  was  a real 
comfort  and  pleasure,  and  we  made  much  use  of 
him  up  to  the  time  of  my  leaving  for  the  United 
States,  when  he  was  purchased  by  the  Knowl- 
tons.  Mrs.  Knowlton  rode  him  for  years  in 
going  to  and  from  the  chapel  where  she  went  to 
meet  her  school  children,  or  female  inquirers. 

In  the  second  and  third  summers  of  our  Chi- 
nese life  we  spent  a short  time  on  the  island  of 
Pootoo,  in  the  Chusan  Archipelago,  situated 
about  seventy  miles  from  the  main-land.  It  had 
the  advantage  of  pure  sea  air  and  freedom  from 
malaria,  which  makes  Ningpo  and  Shanghai,  in 
summer  time,  exceedingly  unhealthy.  Pootoo 
is  devoted  exclusively  to  the  Buddhists ; having 


46 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


four  large  temples  with  monasteries  attached, 
and  not  far  from  a hundred  smaller  ones.  The 
number  of  priests  is  variously  estimated  from 
seven  or  eight  hundred,  to  several  thousands. 

I believe  it  is  more  than  eight  hundred  years 
since  this  island  was  first  devoted  to  religious 
purposes  ; and  some  of  the  buildings  were  con- 
structed at  that  time.  Others  again  are  of  much 
more  recent  date,  but  all,  even  the  newest,  have 
a dilapidated,  faded  appearance,  which  indicates 
a great  falling  off  in  resources,  as  well  as  in  the 
devotion  of  the  people  generally  to  the  Buddhist 
religion. 

Close  to  the  landing  is  the  u White  Flowery 
Monastery,” — to  me,  the  least  interesting  of  the 
many  temples  and  monasteries  on  the  island.  A 
paved  walk  leads  from  it  to  the  Sien-z,  which  oc- 
cupies a central  position,  and  has  been,  in  times 
past,  a magnificent  establishment.  Arriving  at 
the  temple,  you  enter  through  a massive  stone 
gateway.  Some  little  distance  at  your  left  is 
another  entrance,  near  which  is  an  order  carved 
in  stone,  to  the  effect  that  every  equestrian 
on  arriving  at  this  place  must  invariably  dis- 
mount. Whether  or  no  I dismounted  from  my 
Brownie,  I cannot  remember;  I presume,  how- 
ever, I had  left  him  standing  without.  In  China 


TEMPLE  OF  K WAN- VIM",  POOTOO. 

(The  Sion  -sz. ) 


POOTOO. 


47 


all  persons  are  expected  to  walk  wjien  passing 
near  gifts  of  royalty.  Here  the  gift  had  been 
an  immense  marble  tablet,  from  the  celebrated 
Emperor  Kang-Hi.  It  is  preserved  in  an  oc- 
tagonal pagoda,  with  a porcelain  tiled  roof. 
Adjoining  this  is  a lotus  pond,  which,  though  not 
what  it  once  was,  is  still  very  pretty.  It  is 
crossed  by  an  arched  stone  bridge.  There  are 
numerous  other  buildings,  — some  used  as  temples 
for  the  idols,  and  some  as  sleeping  places  for  the 
lazy,  stupid  priests,  who  doze  away  their  lives  in 
this  pretty  retreat.  Had  they  a spark  of  energy 
or  ambition,  they  would  make  some  effort  to 
rescue  these  buildings  from  the  decay  and  ruin 
in  which  we  now  find  them. 

Our  rooms  were  not  in  the  Sien-z,  but  at  the 
Heo-z,  about  a mile  further  on.  This  is  a very 
lovely  place,  though  the  buildings  are  dilapidated 
and  unfit  for  residences.  We  secured  a large 
room  or  loft,  over  the  entrance  to  the  monastery. 
The  lower  story  was  only  partly  enclosed,  being 
used  as  an  entrance  and  passage-way  for  persons 
going  to  and  from  the  temple.  On  three  sides 
of  our  large  room  were  windows,  looking  tow- 
ards the  sea,  the  Sien-z,  and  the  Heo-z,  of  the 
latter  of  which  our  building  formed  part.  At 
one  side  was  a beautiful  grove  of  pine  and  cam- 


48 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


phor  trees,  and  close  behind  rose  the  highest  hill 
on  the  island,  — a mountain  it  seemed  to  us  after 
leaving  the  flat  plain  of  Ningpo.  One  reason 
for  our  coming  to  the  Heo~z,  rather  than  either 
of  the  other  temples  nearer  the  landing,  was  its 
proximity  to  a sandy  beach  which  was  a capital 
bathing-place.  Some  years  before  this,  an  Eng- 
lish chaplain  had  lost  his  life  while  bathing  on 
this  beach ; having  ventured,  I suppose,  to  an  un- 
safe distance.  Thus  on  our  guard  against  possi- 
ble danger,  we  had  many  refreshing  baths.  As 
several  other  families  from  Ningpo  were  also  at 
Pootoo,  we  planned  some  delightful  picnics  and 
rambles  in  company  to  various  points  of  in- 
terest. 

During  the  summer,  years  ago,  it  was  very 
customary  for  foreigners  from  Ningpo  and 
Shanghai  to  visit  this  island ; but  of  late  such 
visits  seem  nearly  discontinued.  Since  the 
opening  of  Japan,  and  of  other  parts  of  China, 
by  the  recent  treaties,  foreigners,  in  choosing 
summer  resorts,  have  generally  given  the  prefer- 
ence to  places  situated  in  more  northern  lati- 
tudes, or  more  accessible. 

The  passage  between  Pootoo  and  the  main 
land  was  not  always  safe,  owing  to  the  number 
of  pirates  who  infest  those  quarters.  We  our- 


X 


pootoo.  49 

selves  never  had  the  fortune  to  fall  into  their 
hands,  though  more  than  once  we  narrowly  es- 
caped them.  A few  days  after  returning  from 
our  first  visit  to  Pootoo,  Mr.  Russell  of  the 
English  Church  Mission,  and  Mr.  Wm.  Martin 
of  our  own,  who  were  on  their  way  from  Ning- 
po,  where  they  had  been  to  procure  provisions 
for  their  families,  who  were  still  on  the  island, 
were  captured  by  a piratical  fleet,  consisting  of 
fourteen  vessels.  A small  boat  from  one  of 
these  came  towards  them,  the  men  in  it  brandishing 
their  weapons  in  a frightful  manner.  Of  course 
resistance  was  useless.  The  robbers  drew  the 
foreigners’  boat  to  the  side  of  their  own,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  help  themselves  to  everything  in  it.  A 
globe  lamp  of  Mr.  Russell’s  they  hung  up  in 
their  captain’s  cabin.  They  demanded  Mr. 
Russell’s  watch,  and,  having  received  it,  asked  him 
to  teach  them  to  wind  it.  They  then  asked  for 
Mr.  Martin’s  watch,  and  upon  his  assuring  them 
that  he  had  none,  replied,  “ You  certainly  must 
have  one;  every  gentleman  carries  a watch.” 
They  had  taken  quite  all  their  provisions,  but, 
some  one  suggesting  that  the  “ white  devils  ” 
might  be  hungry,  returned  a part ; and  as  our 
friends  were  about  leaving,  the  captain  presented 
them  two  pounds  of  tea,  with  his  compliments. 


50 


OUR  LIRE  IN  CHINA. 


These  piratical  gentlemen  also  had  the  assurance 
to  promise  their  captives  to  pay  their  respects  to 
them,  -whenever  they  should  visit  Ningpo.  Mr. 
Russell  and  Mr.  Martin  finally  reached  Pootoo  in 
safety,  having  been  sent  on  shore  in  a small  boat 
belonging  to  the  pirates.  I suspect  they  scarce- 
ly knew  whether  to  be  more  amused  or  annoyed 
with  their  adventure ; though  it  was  a narrow 
escape,  and  the  losses  they  sustained  were  by  no 
means  trifling.  By  the  way,  I suppose  that  at 
the  present  time,  and  for  many  years  past,  a 
principal  source  of  revenue  to  the  Buddhists  of 
Pootoo  is  derived  from  offerings  made  by.  pi- 
rates. After  capturing  some  peaceful  trading 
junks,  and  perhaps  putting  all  on  board  to  death, 
they  repair  to  the  island  to  offer  up  their  thanks 
to  their  favorite  deity,  Kwan-yin,  the  goddess 
of  mercy. 

I once  supposed  that  Brahminism  of  India 
and  Buddhism  of  China  were  nearly  identical ; 
but  that,  I find,  was  a mistake.  Buddhism  was 
introduced  into  China  from  India,  early  in  the 
first  century  of  the  Christian  era,  — ambassadors 
having  been  sent  by  the  Emperor  Ming-Te,  to 
the  West,  in  search  of  a new  religion.  There 
are  different  theories  as  to  what  induced  this 
emperor  to  send  such  an  embassy.  I cannot 


KELIGIONS  OF  CHINA. 


51 


but  think  that  some  glimmering  ray  from  the 
star  of  Bethlehem  had  penetrated  to  distant 
China ; some  faint  echo  of  the  angels’  song,  — 
“ good  tidings  ” — “peace  on  earth  ” — “ good 
will  to  men.” 

Buddhism  was  founded  by  Shakyamuni,  an  in- 
dividual of  the  royal  caste  in  India,  who  lived, 
it  is  supposed,  about  nine  hundred  years  before 
Christ.  He  gave  up  his  life  to  reflection  and 
contemplation,  and  to  teaching  his  doctrines  to 
his  disciples.  At  the  time  of  his  death  his  re- 
ligion was  already  widely  extended  in  India. 
Afterwards  such  persecutions  arose  from  the 
Brahmins  as  drove  the  Buddhists  quite  out  of 
the  country.  Brahminism  seems  thus  to  have 
been  much  the  older  of  these  two  rival  religions. 
The  Buddhists  are  exceedingly  tolerant,  and  many 
Hindoo  deities  are  now  incorporated  with  their 
own.  Shakyamuni  was  greatly  revered  by  his 
numerous  disciples,  and  after  his  death  anything 
which  had  once  belonged  to  him,  as  one  of  his 
teeth,  or  a lock  of  his  hair,  was  considered  a 
sacred  relic,  and  an  object  of  worship.  It  is  said 
that  for  the  preservation  of  these  relics,  pagodas 
were  first  erected.  How,  however,  they  are 
often  made  merely  for  ornament,  or  to  secure  the 
propitious  influences  supposed  to  emanate  from 


52 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


them,  or  as  tombs  for  celebrated  individuals  of 
the  Buddhist  order. 

Having  visited  numbers  of  Buddhist  temples, 
in  fact,  having  lived  for  weeks  in  different  ones, 
I surely  ought  to  be  able  to  describe  them.  Yet 
I really  am  afraid  to  attempt  it.  They  vary 
somewhat  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  both 
in  size  and  style  of  the  buildings.  They  are 
usually  made  of  well-burnt  bricks ; their  sloping 
tiled  roofs,  which  are  often  ornamented  by  gro- 
tesque carved  images  of  lions  and  dragons,  are 
supported  by  immense  wooden  pillars.  There 
are  usually  at  least  three  large  halls  separated 
from  each  other  by  paved  courts.  Entering  the 
first  building,  one  sees  an  image  of  Buddha,  sit- 
ting like  a tailor  at  work,  and  with  a sardonic 
smile  upon  its  countenance,  apparently  gazing 
out  upon  the  follies  and  vanities  of  the  world. 
It  is  made  of  wood  and  plaster,  and  is  usually 
covered  with  gilt.  Not  far  from  this  is  a mili- 
tary character,  grasping  a sword  or  some  other 
warlike  implement.  This  is  the  guardian  of  the 
temple.  There  are  several  other  large  images 
in  this  outer  hall ; but  I will  not  speak  of  them  at 
length.  The  second  building  is  usually  the 
finest  of  all,  being  sometimes  nearly  a hundred 
feet  wide,  more  than  fifty  deep,  and  high  in 


RELIGIONS  OP  CHINA. 


53 


proportion.  The  principal  idols  are  three  large 
gilt  figures,  representing  the  past,  present,  and 
future  Buddhas.  They  stand  in  the  most  prom- 
inent place,  and,  like  the  images  I have  already 
described,  are  in  a sitting  posture,  and  are  con- 
structed in  the  same  way.  They  are  often  at 
least  twenty  feet  in  height.  On  the  two  sides  of 
this  building  are  eighteen  images  of  persons 
supposed  to  have  been  absorbed  into  Veh,  that 
is,  Buddha.  If  it  were  not  too  sad,  it  would  be 
amusing  to  notice  the  peculiarities  of  these  vari- 
ous figures.  They  are  represented  in  all  sorts 
of  attitudes,  and  there  seems  to  have  been  an 
attempt  to  depict  almost  every  conceivable  pas- 
sion in  their  distorted  countenances.  Occasion- 
ally, however,  you  meet  with  one  too  benevolent 
and  pleasing  to  be  found  in  such  bad  company. 
In  this  second  hall  is  generally  seen  an  image  of 
Kwan-shi-yin,  — a favorite  deity  with  the  female 
votaries  of  this  sect.  She  is  supposed  to  confer 
children,  especially  sons,  and  many  are  the 
prayers  and  offerings  at  her  shrine.  I have  seen 
some  images  of  this  goddess  which  were  almost 
oeautiful.  She  is  usually  represented  with  an 
infant  in  her  arms,  and  one  cannot  but  be  struck 
by  the  resemblance  she  thus  presents  to  our 
Western  representations  of  the  Madonna  and 


54 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


child.  The  back  buildings  generally  have 
smaller  images,  and  the  number  of  these  is  so 
great,  that  I shall  not  attempt  even  to  enumer- 
ate them.  On  the  sides  of  the  courts  are  small 
rooms,  in  which  are  frequently  portrayed  the 
Buddhist  ideas  of  hell;  poor  lost  souls,  undergoing 
every  imaginable  torment.  Some  are  being 
ground  between  grindstones ; some  thrown  off 
precipices ; and  others,  again,  are  represented  as 
in  various  stages  of  transformation  into  animals 
of  the  lower  order ; for  instance,  a man  with  a 
wolf’s  head,  or  a wretched  donkey  with  the  face 
of  a man.  Most  of  these  temples  are  monasteries 
as  well,  and  many  of  the  smaller  rooms  are  the 
sleeping  apartments  of  the  monks.  I must  not 
neglect  to  mention  the  dining-room  and  kitchen. 
These  are  the  most  comfortable  apartments  in 
the  whole  establishment.  In  the  kitchen  are 
sometimes  seen  immense  iron  kettles  holding  two 
or  three  barrels,  which  are  used  for  boiling  rice, 
when  the  temple  is  thronged  with  worshippers. 
Various  conveniences  for  cooking,  and  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  food,  show  that  these  devout  indi- 
viduals are  not  yet  insensible  to  all  sublunary 
pleasures,  even  though  they  may  be  on  the  road 
to  the  attainment  of  that  blissful  state.  The 
dining-room  contains  long,  narrow  tables,  and 


RELIGIONS  OF  CHINA. 


55 


seats  sufficient  to  accommodate  several  hundred 
guests. 

I must  give  these  Buddhist  priests,  for  whom 
I confess  I feel  hut  little  love  or  sympathy,  the 
credit  of  showing  great  taste  in  the  selection  of 
the  sites  for  their  establishments.  They  are, 
when  in  the  country,  found  in  most  romantic  and 
sequestered  spots ; and  even  in  the  cities,  they 
are  sometimes  almost  concealed  by  noble  trees 
and  shrubbery.  Beautiful  avenues  of  bamboo 
and  pine  often  lead  to  these  Buddhist  temples/ 
some  of  them  extending  even  for  miles  from  the 
entrance.  Frequently,  tall  old  trees,  artificial 
cascades,  fine  arched  bridges,  lakes,  and  miniature 
ponds,  unite  to  form  a scene  of  beauty  not  often 
surpassed  in  more  civilized  lands ; and,  as  many 
of  these  temples  are  hundreds  of  years  old,  the 
charm  of  antiquity  is  also  not  wanting. 

Women  in  China,  as  elsewhere,  are  more  re- 
ligiously disposed  than  are  men,  and  constitute,  by 
far,  the  larger  proportion  of  worshippers  usually 
seen  in  Buddhist  temples.  Most  of  them  are 
somewhat  advanced  in  years.  The  more  active 
duties  and  enjoyments  of  life  are  past,  and  the 
future,  with  its  dread  uncertainties,  forces  itself 
upon  their  attention.  “ How  shall  I prepare  for 
death,  and  the  unknown  hereafter?”  is  their 


56 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


anxious  inquiry.  They  have  never  heard  of  the 
Saviour,  or  of  heaven ; but  they  have  a sense  of 
sin,  and  a felt  want  of  something  to  rest  upon 
when  earthly  supports  and  pleasures  shall  fail 
them.  It  is  not  strange,  then,  that  they  resort 
to  their  idol  temples,  and  make  use  of  the  vari- 
ous methods  for  securing  those  longed-for  bless- 
ings which  their  own  false  religions  present. 
Let  us  rather  pity  than  blame  them. 

One  of  the  most  common  sights  in  China 
is  that  of  women  going  either  in  groups  or 
singly  to  the  temples.  They  usually  carry  a lit- 
tle basket  containing  incense-sticks  and  candles. 
On  reaching  her  destination,  the  worshipper 
at  once  lights  both  candles  and  incense,  and 
places  them  either  in  front  of  some  one  particu- 
lar image,  or,  as  is  more  often  the  case,  before 
several.  This  duty  performed,  she  returns  to 
Eer  starting-place,  and  commences  her  prostra- 
tions. Folding  her  hands  before  her,  she  first 
makes  a profound  bow  ; she  then  kneels  upon  a 
cushion  placed  for  the  purpose,  and,  bending 
slowly  forward,  strikes  her  forehead  upon  it,  01 
upon  the  floor  or  ground.  This  act  is  usually 
repeated  at  least  three  times  before  each  idol, 
and  sometimes  much  oftener.  After  this  she 
goes  to  a priest  and  buys  a paper  upon  which  is 


RELIGIONS  OP  CHINA. 


57 


a picture  of  Buddha.  The  worshipper’s  name  is 
written  upon  it,  together  with  the  year,  month, 
day,  and  hour  of  her  birth.  It  also  contains 
an  assurance  of  happiness  in  a future  state. 
This  paper  is  at  first  of  little  importance,  but 
after  the  name  of  Buddha  has  been  chanted  over 
it  a great  number  of  times,  its  value  becomes  in- 
estimable. Having  received  it,  the  worshipper 
goes  off  by  herself,  and,  either  sitting  or  kneeling 
on  a cushion,  spends  hours  repeating  as  rapidly 
as  her  lips  can  form  the  words,  “ Na-mi  O-mi-to 
Fuh  ! Na-mi  O-mi-to  Full  ! ” — one  of  the  names 
of  Yeh,  or  Buddha,  — assisting  her  memory  by 
means  of  a rosary,  in  the  same  way  that  the  Ro- 
manists do.  Sometimes,  instead  of  remaining 
apart,  the  worshippers  sit  in  rows,  and  they  then 
often  vary  their  employment  by  interchanging 
bits  of  gossip,  congratulations,  or  condolences. 
When  they  are  chanting  together,  as  they  some- 
times do,  the  sound  is  very  peculiar ; it  always 
seemed  to  me  like  the  mournful  whistling  of  the 
wind.  But  though  a sad  sight  to  a spectator 
who  realizes  its  sin  and  folly,  there  is  very  seR 
dom  in  this  worship  the  least  appearance  of 
solemnity ; you  feel,  rather,  that  it  is  a mere 
form.  It  is  apparent  that  many  resort  to  the 
temples  chiefly  for  the  sake  of  seeing  and  being 


58 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


seen ; and  indeed  it  is  not  strange  that  closely 
secluded  females  should  gladly  embrace  any  ex- 
cuse for  gaining  a glimpse  of  new  scenes  and 
faces.  Though  Chinese  women  of  the  better 
classes  are  rarely  seen  in  the  streets  or  pub- 
lic places,  you  often  meet  them  at  the  temples. 

There  is  another  mode  of  worship  which  I 
think  is  practised  only  by  a certain  class  of 
women,  who  consider  themselves  very  religious. 
It  is  called  “ worshipping  books.”  There  are,  I 
suspect,  many  “ booh  worshippers  ” in  Christian 
lands,  — but  none  like  these.  Placing  an  open 
volume  on  the  ground  before  her,  the  worshipper 
points  with  her  finger  to  a character  or  letter, 
and  then  kneels  and  knocks  her  head  on  the 
cushion  or  ground,  precisely  as  if  she  were  before 
an  idol.  The  books  thus  used  are  certain  Budd- 
hist works  which  are  thought  to  be  peculiarly 
sacred ; but,  of  the  meaning  of  the  characters, 
the  woman  is  totally  ignorant.  As  she  goes 
through  the  same  performance  with  each  separate 
character,  it  is  slow  work,  and  wearisome  too. 
The  merit  accruing  from  it  is  consequently  great, 
and  a more  conceited,  self-complacent  class  of 
persons  I have  never  met. 

There  are  nunneries,  as  well  as  monasteries, 
connected  with  the  Buddhist  religion.  As  far  as 


RELIGIONS  OF  CHINA. 


59 


I have  known  them,  the  nuns  have  not  been  a 
good  or  interesting  class  of  women ; but  to  this, 
perhaps,  there  may  be  honorable  exceptions. 
The  “ sisters  ” are  taught  to  read,  and,  I should 
think,  are  as  well  educated  as  the  priests. 
Infants  and  young  children  are  bought  and 
reared  by  the  “sisters,”  and  it  is  principally  in 
this  way  that  the  succession  is  kept  up.  Some- 
times, however,  females  feeling  that  they  have 
“avocation”  voluntarily  devote  themselves  to 
this  life,  and  others  embrace  it  for  the  simple 
reason  that  it  affords  them  a livelihood.  It  is 
almost  impossible  to  distinguish  the  nuns  from 
the  monks,  for  they  wear  about  the  same  kind  of 
garments,  have  also  unbound  feet,  the  same  heavy 
shoes,  and  their  heads  are  shaven  in  just  the  same 
fashion.  Connected  with  every  nunnery  is  a 
“ lady  abbess,”  to  whom  the  other  nuns  are 
obliged  to  yield  obedience.  In  such  establish- 
ments there  is  always  a hall  containing  idols  ; but 
these  are  usually  neither  numerous  nor  large. 

I have  never  heard  of  the  Chinese  professing 
to  feel  any  love  for  their  gods.  They  pray  to 
them,  and  pay  them  external  honors,  because 
they  have  an  end  to  gain,  or  because  they  fear 
them.  It  seems  to  me  that  in  most  cases  they 
have  so  little  faith  in  them  that  they  awaken 


60 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


neither  love  nor  fear.  But  if  they  are  guilty  of 
insincerity  in  the  worship  of  their  gods,  no  such 
insincerity  attaches  itself  to  their  worship  of  de- 
mons and  spirits  generally.  These  they  fear 
beyond  measure,  and  every  artifice  is  made  use 
of  either  to  propitiate  or  frighten  them.  But  I 
cannot  enter  upon  this  subject,  which  has  been 
treated  of  at  length  by  Mr.  Nevius,  in  his 
“China  and  the  Chinese,”  and  in  other  works  on 
China.  I shall  be  glad,  indeed,  if  anything  I 
have  said  has  awakened  sufficient  interest  in  any 
one  to  induce  him  to  continue  a study  which  is 
of  such  importance  in  understanding  the  true 
condition  of  the  Chinese. 

No  one  can  be  even  partially  acquainted  with 
the  Buddhist  religion,  without  being  struck  by  its 
similarity  to  Romanism.  Celibacy  of  the  priests 
and  nuns,  fasts,  the  use  of  the  rosary,  reciting 
masses  for  the  dead,  burning  candles  and  incense, 
are  only  a few  of  the  points  of  coincidence. 

There  is  another  sect  in  China,  which  in  some 
respects  resembles  the  Buddhist;  in  others  again  is 
very  different.  I refer  to  Tauism.  It  was  found- 
ed about  six  hundred  years  before  Christ,  by  the 
philosopher  Lao-ts.  It  is  said  that  on  one  oc- 
casion Lao-ts  and  Confucius  met,  and  conversed 
together ; but  their  characters  and  doctrines  were 


RELIGIONS  OP  CHINA. 


61 


very  dissimilar,  and  there  seems  to  have  been  no 
affection  existing  between  them.  It  is  thought 
that  at  first  the  Tauists  were  not  idolaters,  but 
that  this  feature  of  their  religion  was  adopted 
from  the  Buddhists.  Theoretically,  the  Tauist 
religion  is  much  more  philosophic  and  transcen- 
dental than  Buddhism,  but  as  practised,  they  are 
very  similar.  To  a superficial  view,  Buddhist 
and  Tauist  temples  seem  nearly  alike;  but,  upon 
examination,  they  are  found  to  have  marked 
differences.  The  images  are  usually  smaller, 
and  less  costly,  but  they  are  very  numerous. 
There  are  the  god  of  the  sea,  of  the  rivers,  of  the 
hills,  of  the  stars ; the  god  of  thunder,  the  god  of 
lightning,  and  hosts  of  others.  In  this  system, 
much  importance  is  given  to  astrology  and  al- 

The  chief  ambition  of  the  Tauists  is  to  become 
Sien-jin;  but  what  these  Sien-jin  are,  they  them- 
selves have  but  a very  confused  idea.  They 
seem  to  be  ethereal,  fairy-like  creatures,  dwelling 
at  their  pleasure  either  among  men,  or  in  a far- 
off  and  beautiful  abode,  the  sacred  mountains. 
There  is  a book  in  China  which  contains  a his- 
tory of  several  hundreds  of  them.  The  rules 
given  for  the  attainment  of  that  marvellous  state 
of  purity  and  blessedness  are  inconceivably  ah- 


62 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


surd.  The  devotee  must  go  through  certain  bodi- 
ly exercises  which  I do  not  understand  sufficient- 
ly well  to  attempt  to  describe.  He  must  also 
prepare  and  eat  a mysterious  kind  of  food  called 
Elixir  of  Life.  Others  again  think  it  is  possible 
to  become  Sien-jin,  through  the  aid  of  evil  spirits 
and  magic.  The  stories  of  ghosts,  and  fairies, 
and  genii,  both  good  and  bad,  which  are  circulat- 
ed in  China,  excel  all  the  vagaries  of  the  Ara- 
bian Nights,  or  the  nursery  tales  ever  invented 
in  Western  lands. 

The  mode  of  worship  practised  in  Tauist  tem- 
ples, resembles  that  of  the  Buddhists,  but  the  ob- 
jects to  be  attained  are  different.  As  the  gods  of 
war,  of  riches,  of  longevity,  of  medicine,  and  the 
like,  belong  to  the  Tauist  sect,  so  the  prayers 
offered  at  their  shrines  are  naturally  for  such 
blessings  as  they  are  supposed  to  confer.  There  is 
a class  of  Tauist  priests  who  are  allowed  to  mar- 
ry. They  dwell  with  their  families  within  the 
temple  enclosure.  But  the  straiter  sort  affect 
to  despise  all  the  social  relations,  and  with 
some  exceptions  resemble  the  Buddhists  both  in 
their  mode  of  dress  and  way  of  living.  Budd- 
hists shave  the  whole  head,  while  Tauists  leave 
the  hair  long  at  the  sides,  curling  it  in  a very  un- 
graceful way  on  top,  where  it  is  kept  in  place 


RELIGIONS  OF  CHINA. 


63 


by  a large  hair-pin.  They  both  wear  long  loose 
robes ; but  they  are  of  different  colors,  so  that 
they  are  easily  distinguished  at  a glance. 

The  Tauist  religion  is  patronized  by  the  gov- 
ernment, and  the  Mandarins  are  obliged,  on  cer- 
tain occasions,  to  repair  to  the  temples  of  the 
gods  of  the  city,  and  of  war,  and  others,  to  go 
through  a form  of  worship.  On  New  Year’s 
day  I have  been  to  the  Cheng-hwang-miao  in 
Ningpo,  when  the  temple  was  crowded  with 
officers  and  gentlemen  making  prostrations  be- 
fore the  idols,  while  the  smoke  from  the  burning 
incense  was  almost  stifling. 

I had  no  intention  of  indulging  in  a disserta- 
tion upon  the  religions  of  China ; though  it  is  a 
subject  in  which  I feel  a deep  interest.  But 
having  said  so  much  about  Buddhism  and  Tauism, 
I must  make  some  slight  mention  of  Confucian- 
ism, the  pride  of  the  Chinese.  It  seems  scarcely 
more  proper  to  call  a Chinaman’s  devotion  to 
Confucius  a religion,  than  it  would  to  give  that 
name  to  the  intense  love  of  science  and  litera- 
ture, and  the  court  paid  to  scientific  and  literary 
men,  by  so  many  of  the  educated  classes  in  our 
own  country.  In  both  instances  there  is  danger 
of  such  inordinate  admiration  becoming  idola- 
trous ; and  in  China  that  disposition  is  not 


64 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


checked.  On  the  contrary,  the  more  implicitly 
a Chinese  scholar  yields  himself  to  his  devotion 
to  his  great  master,  the  better  satisfied  he  is  with 
himself. 

Confucius  was  born  in  the  province  of  Shang- 
tung,  about  six  hundred  years  before  Christ. 
When  it  is  remembered  that  he  received  no  aid 
from  the  light  of  revelation,  his  teachings  must 
be  regarded  by  every  candid  person  as  most  re- 
markable. He  laid  great  stress  upon  the  five 
virtues,  “ benevolence,  uprightness,  politeness, 
knowledge,  and  faithfulness.”  Also  upon  the 
duties  growing  out  of  the  reciprocal  relations  of 
prince  and  subject,  parent  and  child,  husband 
and  wife.  The  most  remarkable  of  all  his  pre- 
cepts, as  far  as  I know  them,  is  that  near  ap- 
proach to  the  “golden  rule,”  “Do  not  to  others 
what  you  would  not  have  others  do  to  you.” 

Confucius  frankly  confessed  his  inability  to 
enlighten  his  countrymen  upon  strictly  religious 
subjects.  It  was  his  chief  endeavor  to  enforce 
upon  his  followers  the  practice  of  duties  relating 
to  this  life  only.  When  asked  some  questions 
concerning  futurity,  he  replied,  “Not  knowing 
life,  how  can  we  know  death  ? ” By  the  purity 
of  his  life  and  teachings,  he  secured  the  un- 
bounded respect  and  veneration  of  his  pupils, 


RELIGIONS  OF  CHINA. 


65 


who  are  said  to  have  numbered  three  thousand. 
But,  notwithstanding  all  that  is  good  and  noble 
in  the  life  and  character  of  the  great  sage,  I 
confess  that  in  reading  Dr.  Legg’s  translation  of 
the  classics,  which  are  chiefly  made  up  of  his 
sayings  and  doings,  my  veneration  for  him  was 
not  increased.  Although  Confucius  did  not 
positively  inculcate  idolatry,  he  encouraged  it, 
both  by  example  and  precept ; especially  in  that 
subtile  form  known  as  ancestral  worship. 

There  are  numerous  temples  all  over  China 
dedicated  to  the  worship  of  Confucius.  In  these 
there  are  very  seldom  any  images ; but  a tablet, 
with  his  name  inscribed  upon  it,  is  the  object 
before  which  offerings  are  placed,  and  prostra- 
tions made.  These  offerings  are  usually  sheep, 
deer,  and  smaller  animals ; but  I have  seen  in  a 
Confucian  temple,  in  Ningpo,  a whole  ox  skinned 
and  placed  upon  a small  bench  before  the  tablet. 
It  was  left  in  that  way  a day  or  two,  and  was 
then  probably  used  as  food.  The  officials,  by 
whom  these  offerings  are  made,  are  obliged  to 
resort  to  the  temple  long  before  day  has  dawned. 
Connected  with  Confucian  temples,  or  forming 
part  of  them,  are  the  examination  halls.  There 
are  also  other  apartments  devoted  to  different 
purposes;  such  as  collections  of  numerous  tablets, 


66 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


with  the  names  of  celebrated  individuals  of  the 
past  inscribed  upon  them.  A person,  in  wor- 
shipping Confucius,  simply  prostrates  himself  be- 
fore the  tablet,  and  remains  for  a moment  either 
in  silent  contemplation  or  devotion. 

There  is  in  Confucianism  nothing  gross  and 
disgusting,  as  in  the  Buddhist  and  Tauist  relig- 
ions;  but  it  is  not  on  that  account  much  less  to 
be  feared  as  a hindrance  to  the  spread  of  Chris- 
tianity ; perhaps  for  that  very  reason  it  is  the  more 
to  be  dreaded.  Many  of  the  literati  are  bitter  in 
their  denunciations  of  the  idolatry  of  their  coun- 
trymen, but  they  feel  no  repugnance  to  it  as 
practised  by  their  own  class.  When  little  boys 
are  first  sent  to  school,  they  are  obliged  to  pay 
their  respects  to  Confucius,  which  they  do  by 
making  a very  low  bow  towards  the  tablet  repre- 
senting him.  I am  afraid  I have  given  but  a 
poor  and  meagre  account  of  this  system  of  morals, 
or  religion,  as  one  may  choose  to  call  it.  I 
very  willingly  acknowledge  that  I have  still 
much  to  learn  about  the  religions  as  well  as  the 
character  and  customs  of  the  Chinese. 

Besides  these  three  principal  sects,  there  are 
others,  which,  though  smaller,  have  still  consid- 
erable influence,  especially  in  certain  localities. 


VISIT  TO  TUB  UNITED  STATES. 


67 


CHAPTER  IY. 

VISIT  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES.  — RETURN  TO 
NINGPO. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  year  1856  our 
friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Rankin,  returned  to  the 
United  States,  — Mrs.  Rankin's  health  having  for 
months  been  seriously  affected.  After  their  de- 
parture, Ur.  and  Mrs.  McCartee  took  charge  of 
the  girls’  boarding-school,  until,  at  the  close 
of  the  same  year,  they  themselves,  on  account  of 
Dr.  McCartee1  s ill-health,  were  obliged  to  visit 
their  native  land.  As  my  health,  since  my  first 
illness,  had  steadily  declined,  it  was  at  length 
decided  that  I should  accompany  them,  with  the 
hope  that  a short  sojourn  at  home  would  restore 
my  lost  voice  and  failing  strength.  We  sailed 
from  Woosung,  the  mouth  of  the  Shanghai  Riv- 
er, on  the  14th  of  December,  1856.  Of  the 
trial  of  parting  from  my  husband,  under  such 
circumstances,  I need  not  speak  here.  We  knew 
that  many  of  our  missionary  friends  disapproved 


68 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


of  the  separation;  but  we  ourselves  had  little 
doubt  as  to  our  duty,  and  have  ever  since  been 
most  thankful  that  we  decided  the  matter  as  we 
did. 

Our  ship,  the  “Wild  Pigeon,”  was  a very  pleas- 
ant one.  The  captain  was  kind,  and  our  little 
party,  consisting  only  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  McCartee, 
Rev.  Mr.  Wight  of  Shanghai,  and  myself,  passed 
our  time  as  agreeably  as  the  monotony  of  a sea- 
voyage  would  allow.  We  reached  New  York  in 
the  month  of  March,  after  a favorable  passage 
of  only  ninety-eight  days. 

The  year  and  a half  in  which  I was  absent 
from  China  was  an  eventful  one  in  our  mission. 
In  the  month  of  October,  1857,  our  good  Mr. 
Quarterman  was  called  to  his  rest.  He  was  one 
of  the  best  of  men,  and  a devoted  mission- 
ary. The  disease  of  which  he  died  was  small- 
pox. Mr.  Samuel  Martin  was  suffering  from  a 
severe  throat  affection,  which  obliged  him,  not 
long  after,  to  return  home.  Mr.  Way  was  also 
in  poor  health.  Mr.  William  Martin  and  Mr. 
Nevius  were,  for  a time,  the  only  well  men  in 
the  mission,  and  their  duties  were  very  arduous. 

On  account  of  the  illness  or  absence  of  so  many 
of  their  foreign  teachers,  the  native  assistants,  of 
whom  at  that  time  there  were  only  two  or  three, 


VISIT  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


69 


had  to  assume  much  more  responsibility,  as  well 
as  more  actual  labor,  than  they  had  before  beefi 
considered  adequate  to.  They  were  found  fully 
equal  to  the  emergency ; and,  from  that  time  to 
this,  they  have  been  aiding  with  great  zeal  and 
efficiency  in  the  missionary  work,  not  only  at 
Ningpo,  but  in  new  and  distant  stations.  About 
this  time  our  mission  was  reinforced  by  the  ar- 
rival of  Rev.  Mr.  Inslee. 

There  was  in  Ningpo,  for  many  years,  an 
English  lady,  who,  by  her  indefatigable  energy 
and  remarkable  Christian  character,  exercised 
an  influence  hardly  second  to  that  of  any  other 
missionary.  Long  before  leaving  her  native 
land  she  had  desired  to  devote  herself  to  God’s 
work  among  the  heathen,  but  had  been  deterred 
by  the  opposition  of  her  father,  and,  after  his 
death,  by  the  necessity  of  assuming  the  care 
of  a deceased  brother’s  children.  At  length, 
at  the  age  of  forty,  all  obstacles  were  removed, 
and  she  then  at  once  gave  her  life  and  her  for- 
tune to  the  work  she  had  so  long  loved.  She 
was  one  of  the  earliest  missionaries  at  Ningpo, 
where  she  established  a boarding-school  for  girls. 
The  history  of  her  life  would  be  replete  with 
interest;  and  the  influence  for  good  which  she 
exerted  upon  the  Chinese  must  remain  forever. 


70 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


There  are  many  who  disapprove  of  unmarried 
ladies  engaging  in  missionary  work  in  foreign 
lands.  Such,  could  they  know  of  the  life  and 
labors  of  Miss  Aldersey  at  Ningpo,  would,  I 
think,  be  disabused  of  this  mistaken  idea,  or 
obliged  to  yield  their  prejudices.  True,  there 
are  not  many  Miss  Alderseys,  but  there  are 
many  who  could  imitate  her  to  a good  degree. 

Miss  Aldersey  had  in  her  employ,  at  the  time 
of  my  visit  to  America,  a young  Chinaman 
named  Zia,  one  of  our  church-members.  Not 
requiring  his  constant  services  in  the  school,  she 
sent  him  occasionally  on  short  excursions  to  the 
country,  in  order  that  he  might  attempt  some 
more  direct  missionary  work.  San-poh  was  but 
little  known  during  those  early  years,  foreigners 
having  but  rarely  visited  it.  Its  people  had  the 
deputation  of  being  rude  and  lawless.  I cannot 
remember  what  first  induced  Miss  Aldersey  to 
send  Mr.  Zia  there.  However,  he  went,  and  met 
with  such  unlooked-for  success,  that  native  as- 
sistants were  obliged  to  go  to  his  help.  There 
were  numbers  whose  hearts  seemed  prepared  to 
receive  the  gospel.  The  missionaries,  fearing 
lest  their  presence  might  rather  retard  than  ad- 
vance the  work,  left  it  for  some  time  in  the  hands 
of  the  assistants.  When  Mr.  Nevius  first  went 


VISIT  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


71 


to  the  new  station,  there  were  a large  number  of 
applicants  for  baptism,  seven  of  whom  were  re- 
ceived on  the  following  Sabbath.  Of  those  first 
San-poh  converts,  none  have  forsaken  their  Chris- 
tian profession,  nor  brought  reproach  upon  it.  The 
work  thus  commenced  has  spread,  until  there  are 
now  in  that  neighborhood  two  churches,  and  more 
than  one  hundred  and  fifty  church  members.  Mr. 
Zia,  who  has  been  for  some  years  an  ordained 
minister,  is  the  pastor  of  one  of  these  churches; 
and  the  lamented  Kying  Ling-yiu  had  charge  of 
the  church  at  Yu-yiao  up  to  the  time  of  his 
death.  Its  present  pastor  is  the  Rev.  Bao 
Ivwang-hyi,  another  of  the  young  ministers  con- 
nected with  the  Ningpo  Presbytery. 

During  this  year  there  were  serious  disturb- 
ances at  Ningpo.  My  recollections  of  them  are 
very  indistinct.  I suppose  they  were  chiefly 
owing  to  the  hatred  existing  between  the  Can- 
tonese, of  whom  there  were  many  in  Ningpo,  and 
the  Portuguese,  who  had  a kind  of  monopoly  of 
the  coast  trade.  In  truth  there  was  little  to 
choose  between  them,  for  a worse  class  of  men 
than  either,  it  would  be  difficult  to  find.  But  as 
the  Portuguese  were  foreigners,  the  ill  odor  in 
which  they  were  held  extended  in  a measure  to 
other  nationalities,  and  for  a time  the  lives  of  the 


72 


OUR  LIFE  IX  CHINA. 


missionaries  and  mercantile  community  were  con- 
sidered far  from  secure.  It  was  reported  that  a 
time  had  been  fixed  for  the  assassination  of  all 
foreigners  ; and  for  many  days  and  nights  great 
anxiety  was  felt.  Whether  there  was  truth  in  this 
or  not  has  never  been  known.  The  missionaries 
were  not  molested,  but  the  wretched  Portuguese 
met  with  a retribution  so  terrible  that  we  almost 
lost  sight  of  their  just  deserts  in  pity  for  their 
sad  fate.  The  Cantonese  attacked  them  in  their 
quarters  and  massacred  nearly  all  of  them.  Prom 
the  mission-houses  they  could  be  seen  rushing 
frantically  hither  and  thither  in  their  vain  at- 
tempts to  escape. 

When  I had  been  in  the  United  States  about 
a year  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Rankin  returned  to  China ; 
and,  although  my  health  was  only  partially  re- 
stored, I felt  that  I could  not  allow  those  dear 
friends  to  go  back  without  me.  We  sailed  from 
New  York  in  the  clipper-ship  aN.  B.  Palmer,” 
the  19th  of  March,  and  reached  TIong-kong  the 
15th  of  June  following,  making  the  passage  in 
the  remarkably  short  time  of  eighty-eight  days. 

Our  voyage,  though  so  prosperous,  was  very 
destitute  of  incident;  not  even  diversified  by  the 
unwelcome  variety  afforded  by  violent  storms,  or 
dangers  of  any  sort.  We  anchored  but  once  from 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


73 


New  York  to  Hong-kong,  and  that  was  at  An- 
gier,  on  the  island  of  Java.  We  had  light,  baf- 
fling winds  for  some  days  while  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Straits  of  Sunda ; but  the  beauty  of  the 
scenery  through  which  we  were  passing  quite 
compensated  for  the  delay.  Arriving  at  Angier, 
the  ship  was  quickly  surrounded  by  numerous 
Malay  boats,  containing  fowls,  fruits  and  vege- 
tables, shells,  etc.,  for  sale,  the  owners  of  which 
being  evidently  aware  of  the  fact  that  such  things 
are  very  fascinating  to  seafaring  people.  Dur- 
ing the  afternoon  of  the  day  we  spent  at  anchor 
off  Angier  the  captain  kindly  took  his  passen- 
gers on  shore  for  a stroll.  We  had  a narrow 
escape  from  a plunge-bath,  as  the  gig  was  pass- 
ing through  a very  narrow,  rocky  entrance 
leading  to  the  landing.  Angier,  though  rather 
a large  Malay  settlement,  is  a poor  place,  con- 
taining nothing  of  special  interest,  except  its 
trees,  fruits,  flowers,  and  birds.  Close  to  the 
landing  is  a noble  banian-tree,  which  is  one  of 
the  most  prominent  objects  seen  from  shipboard. 
The  banian,  and  also  numerous  palms,  plantains, 
tamarinds,  and  other  tropical  trees,  gorgeous 
flowers,  and  birds  of  brilliant  plumage,  give  to 
these  Eastern  islands  generally,  a peculiar  charm, 
which,  to  persons  from  less  genial  climates,  seems 


76 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


most  intolerable.  But  kind  friends  on  shore  — — 
Rev.  Mr.  Ashmore,  0.  E.  Roberts,  Esq.,  U.  S. 
Consul,  and  the  Messrs.  Spieden,  merchants — • 
entertained  nearly  our  whole  party,  in  such  a cor- 
dial, hospitable  manner,  that  their  kindness  will 
ever  be  most  gratefully  remembered. 

Hong-kong  has  a character  peculiar  to  itself. 
It  is  neither  Chinese  nor  English,  but  rather  a 
combination  of  both.  It  stands  at  the  foot  of  a 
mountain,  the  highest  point  of  tvhich,  Victoria 
Peak,  rises  seventeen  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  As  the  town  extends,  it  is  gradually 
creeping  up  the  steep  behind  it,  and  many  of  the 
foreign  residences  are  situated  in  such  elevated 
positions  as  to  command  an  extended  view,  as 
well  as  comparatively  pure  air.  The  island  is 
not  quite  ten  miles  long,  and  is  considerably  less 
than  three  in  width.  Before  it  was  appropriated 
by  the  English  it  was  only  a small  settlement 
inhabited  by  poor  Chinese  fishermen ; while  now, 
not  much  more  than  twenty  years  since  it  be- 
came an  English  colony,  it  has  not  only  a large 
foreign  population,  but  also,  it  is  estimated,  about 
ninety  thousand  Chinese  settled  there ; their 
city,  or  section  of  the  city,  rivalling  in  size, 
though  not  in  appearance,  the  foreign  part. 
The  harbor  is  excellent.  “ Landlocked  with  bold 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


77 


rocks  and  swelling  hills,  the  navies  of  every 
European  power  might  here  safely  ride  at  an- 
chor. Fair  weather  or  foul,  this  bay  of  Hong- 
kong is  always  picturesque.  Full  of  life  and 
movement  too,  from  the  shipping  which  crowds 
its  waters,  the  scene  is  one  of  great  attraction  to 
residents  and  casual  visitors  alike.  The  day- 
break gun  wakens  up  all  early  risers ; the  loud 
screaming  whistles,  and  scarce  less  discordant  bells 
of  the  river  steamers  soon  after  begin  the  busi- 
ness of  the  day,  and  keep  up  one  incessant 
alarm  from  seven  in  the  morning  to  eight  or 
nine  o’clock,  and  again  from  four  in  the  after- 
noon until  long  after  dark,  on  their  return  from 
Canton  or  Macao.  The  snorting  and  puffing  of 
gun-hoats  diversifies  the  sounds ; while  from  the 
shore  and  the  streets  a busy  hum  of  cries  and 
sounds  indescribable  and  untranslatable  tell  the 
drowsy  stranger  that  a city  in  the  tropics  has 
leaped  into  life  and  activity  before  the  sun  at- 
tains his  scorching  power.  If  he  turns  out  for 
an  early  walk  or  ride,  as  most  Anglo-Easterns 
do,  and  bends  his  steps  upwards  to  the  higher 
grounds,  he  will  find  the  convolvulus  spreading 
its  beautiful  flowers  for  the  fresh  breath  of  dawn, 
creepers  of  wild  luxuriance  covering  each  wall 
and  bank ; and,  looking  seaward,  a whole  series 


78 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


of  bays  lie  at  his  feet,  stretching  away  in  the 
distance.  Market  boats,  laden  with  provisions 
from  the  main  land,  with  their  richly  colored  sails 
of  matting,  and  many  picturesque  forms,  are 
crowding  into  the  harbor.  Square-rigged  ships 
are  pressing  all  sail  to  gain  the  long-desired  ha- 
ven, while  others  are  unmooring  to  proceed  to  the 
several  ports  with  their  outward  cargo.  Ships 
of  war,  trading  junks,  merchant  craft  from  every 
country,  — all  are  here  to  bear  testimony  to  the 
activity  and  importance  of  the  trade  which  in 
some  way  or  other  finds  in  Hong-kong  a con- 
necting link.  Native  craft  in  numbers  from 
the  adjoining  coast  each  differing  in  shape  and 
color,  according  to  the  port,  crowd  the  anchor- 
age. The  great,  bulky  Shantung  junk,  laden 
with  peas  and  beans ; the  Shanghai  hulk,  with 
its  gaudy  colors,  and  mythic  eagle  on  the  stern, 
but  little  differing  in  exterior  ; and  the  long,  low 
craft  of  Ningpo,  — all  are  there;  Hainan  and 
even  Siam  and  Singapore,  each  has  its  type.” 

The  residence  of  the  governor,  and  the  palace 
of  the  bishop,  and  a somewhat  imposing  cathedral, 
are  the  most  pretentious  edifices  in  the  foreign 
settlement ; but  the  dwellings  of  the  merchants 
generally  are  commodious  and  elegant. 

Towards  evening  in  the  summer  season,  it  is 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


79 


customary,  or  was  at  the  time  of  which  I am 
writing,  for  a great  part  of  the  foreign  popula- 
tion to  assemble  upon  the  parade-ground  where 
the  music  of  a military  band  afforded  a pleas- 
ant entertainment.  I remember  one  such  even- 
ing in  June,  1858.  Leaving  our  ship,  we  came 
on  shore  in  a native  boat,  and  went  at  once  to 
the  “green,”  where  the  troops  were  exercising, 
and  the  band  performing.  The  latter  was  com- 
posed of  Sepoys  from  India,  some  of  whom  were 
as  black  as  the  blackest  negro.  It  was  shortly 
after  the  Indian  mutiny,  and  these  Sepoys,  I was 
told,  were  a part  of  one  of  the  mutinous  regi- 
ments. It  gave  me  very  sad  sensations,  as  I 
imagined  the  scenes  in  which  they  had  probably 
taken  part.  I inquired  of  a friend  if  there 
were  not  danger  of  these  Indian  troops  joining 
with  the  Chinese  against  foreigners.  He  replied 
that  that  could  hardly  be,  as  the  most  bitter 
hatred  existed  between  them ; exceeding  even 
their  common  hatred  to  foreigners.  A large 
number  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  were  assembled 
on  the  green,  promenading  or  conversing  in 
groups ; a few  equestrians  galloped  to  and  fro, 
and  there  were  many  ponies  led  by  their  grooms, 
their  riders  having  dismounted.  The  different 
nationalities  represented,  with  their  varied  cos- 


80 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


tumes,  added  much  to  the  animated  and  interest- 
ing scene. 

At  the  time  of  my  visit  in  Hong-kong,  affairs 
between  foreigners  and  Chinese  were  in  a most 
unsatisfactory  state.  Steamers  passing  between 
Hong-kong  and  Canton  were  not  unfrequently 
attacked,  and  foreign  residents  there  were  in  con- 
tinual danger.  One  day  a German  missionary 
was  walking  quietly  through  the  streets  of  Can- 
ton, when  he  noticed  a woman  who  was  approach- 
ing him  start  back,  an  expression  of  horror 
depicted  in  her  features.  Her  eyes  were  directed 
to  some  object  behind  him,  and,  turning  quickly, 
he  saw  a knife  suspended  over  his  own  head.  It 
was  too  late  to  prevent  the  blow,  which  fell  upon 
his  forehead,  severing  an  artery,  and  inflicting 
a severe  wound.  There  were  three  ruffians  en- 
gaged in  the  attack,  and  he  knew  that  his  only 
safety  was  in  flight.  They  pursued  him,  but  he 
escaped;  not,  however,  without  receiving  two 
more  wounds.  While  in  Hong-kong  it  was  re- 
ported that  Ningpo  had  been  captured  by  the 
rebels ; but  the  rumor  was  incorrect,  as  it  was 
not  until  some  years  later  that  that  city  fell  into 
their  hands. 

After  a somewhat  tedious  voyage  up  the  coast, 
owing  to  baffling  winds  and  extreme  heat,  we 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


81 


reached  the  mouth  of  the  Shanghai  River,  on  the 
25th  July.  The  United  States  man-of-war, 
“Minnesota,”  was  at  that  time  stationed  there, 
and  we  anchored  not  far  from  her.  Shortly  after, 
a small  boat,  manned  with  foreign  sailors,  pushed 
off  from  the  steamer,  and  made  towards  us.  I 
was  not  long  in  discovering  that  the  gentleman 
in  the  stern  was  my  husband.  While  awaiting 
the  arrival  of  our  ship,  he  had  been  for  several 
days  the  guest  of  the  excellent  Admiral  Dupont. 
Our  whole  party,  at  the  admiral’s  invitation, 
took  tea  on  board  the  “ Minnesota,”  and  the  same 
evening  proceeded  up  the  river  to  Shanghai.  I 
think  a stranger,  hearing  our  animated  conversa- 
tion and  cheerful  songs,  as  we  sailed  up  the 
Woosing  River  that  pleasant  summer  evening, 
would  not  have  received  the  impression  that 
missionaries  were  by  any  means  an  unhappy  class 
of  people. 

But  the  happy  hearts  and  buoyant  spirits  of 
some  of  our  party  were  destined  soon  to  receive 
that  proof  of  a Father’s  love,  — affliction.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Rankin,  with  their  three  children,  had  taken 
passage  for  Ningpo  a few  days  after  our  arrival. 
They  were  about  embarking,  when  little  Johnny 
was  attacked  by  cholera.  The  disease  ran  its 
course  with  frightful  rapidity,  and,  after  a few 
6 


82 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


hours  of  suffering,  the  dear  child  closed  his  eyes 
in  death.  He  was  a lovely  boy,  and  a great 
favorite  with  us  all.  His  parents  bore  the  blow 
with  sweet  resignation,  having  ere  this  learned 
to  say,  “Not  my  will,  but  Thine,  be  done.” 
Perhaps  we  were  all  too  happy  in  the  enjoyment 
of  our  many  mercies,  and  needed  just  that  re- 
minder, severe  though  it  was. 

Within  a few  weeks  we  were  all  in  our  homes, 
and  busily  engaged  in  our  various  duties.  Hr. 
and  Mrs.  McCartee  had  reached  Ningpo  a short 
time  before  us.  The  Rankins  resumed  the  girls’ 
school,  Mr.  Nevius  had  charge  of  the  boys’.  He 
had  also  a most  interesting  Bible-class,  which  had 
been  continued,  with  but  few  interruptions,  for 
several  years.  It  consisted  of  all  the  native 
assistants,  and  several  members  of  the  graduat- 
ing class  in  the  school,  and  a few  of  the  teachers 
in  mission  employ,  — in  all,  between  twenty  and 
thirty.  They  used  to  meet  twice  a week  in  our 
dining-room.  Their  intelligent,  eager  counte- 
nances, quick  replies,  and  the  heartfelt  interest 
manifested  in  their  lessons  were  most  encouraging 
to  their  teacher.  These  native  Christians  have 
a wonderful  knowledge  of  the  Bible.  Mr.  Nevius 
would  frequently  say  to  them,  “ There  is  in  the 
Scriptures  a verse  containing  such  and  such  an 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


83 


idea ; can  any  of  you  repeat  it,  or  tell  me  where 
it  is?”  Almost  invariably,  several  would  an- 
swer with  the  exact  words  of  the  text,  and  prob- 
ably the  place  where  it  could  be  found.  Hav- 
ing few  religious  books  or  commentaries  has  not 
been  in  all  respects  a disadvantage  to  our  native 
Christians.  They  study  the  Bible  itself  so 
thoroughly,  that  many  of  them  have  become, 
without  exaggeration,  “mighty  in  the  Scrip- 
tures.” Mr.  Gamble,  my  fellow-passenger  from 
the  United  States,  soon  after  his  arrival,  assumed 
charge  of  our  mission  press,  which  position  he 
has  ever  since  filled  with  great  energy  and  effi- 
ciency. Mr.  Samuel  Martin  and  family  had 
already  left  for  home  ; we  missed  them  greatly. 
Not  long  after  this,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Way  were  also 
obliged  to  return  to  the  United  States.  Mr.  Way 
had,  I think,  been  about  seventeen  years  in 
China  without  once  leaving  it.  They  also  were 
a great  loss  to  our  mission,  as  they  were  loved 
by  all.  Neither  of  these  families  have  been  able 
to  resume  their  work  in  China. 

My  health,  though  much  better  than  when  I 
left  the  country  eighteen  months  before,  was  by 
no  means  perfect.  As  opportunities  for  useful- 
ness opened  upon  every  side,  I used  to  long  for 
greatly  increased  physical  strength.  Not  being 


84 


OUR  LIRE  IN  CHINA. 


able  to  use  my  voice  as  freely  as  I once  could,  I 
employed  much  of  my  time  the  first  few  months 
after  my  return  in  translating  the  well  known 
child’s  book,  “ Peep  of  Day.”  I have  the  sat- 
isfaction of  knowing  that  it  has  been  used  exten- 
sively by  those  who  are  acquainted  with  the 
Romanized  colloquial  of  Ningpo.  I resumed  my 
visits  among  the  women,  as  far  as  my  voice  and 
strength  would  allow.  One  day  when  I was 
paying  a visit  in  a respectable  family  who  lived 
near  us,  the  lady  of  the  house,  as  we  sat  con- 
versing, informed  me,  with  no  apparent  annoy- 
ance at  the  fact,  that  her  husband  had  three 
ivives,  adding,  “lam  the  chief.”  A younger 
woman  entered  with  tea  and  tiffin.  Pointing  to 
her,  my  hostess  remarked,  “ She  is  the  mother  of 
these  children,”  — two  nice  little  boys  who  hung 
about  her  with  as  much  freedom  and  affection  as  if 
she  had  been  their  own  parent.  The  third  wife  was 
absent  with  her  husband,  at  a place  some  distance 
from  N ingpo.  Polygamy  is  not  common  in  China, 
but  there  are  occasional  instances  of  it. 

A friend,  Mrs.  D , of  Shanghai,  was 

spending  a few  days  with  me  during  the  month 
of  November.  One  morning  we  noticed  a bridal 
procession  passing  the  house.  First  came  the 
bride  in  the  bridal  chair,  — a huge,  gayly  painted 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


85 


sedan  carried  by  four  well-dressed  bearers.  Next 
followed  a band  of  musicians,  together  with  at- 
tendants, and  several  porters  with  loads  of  bed- 
ding, and  embroidered  pillows,  etc.,  etc. 

The  house  where  the  wedding  was  to  take 
place  was  near  at  hand,  and,  though  we  were  not 
invited  guests,  we  ventured  to  follow  the  proces- 
sion, and  enter  the  court,  — quite  sure  that  once 
there,  we  would  be  politely  invited  to  the  “ inner 
apartments.” 

When  we  reached  the  house,  where  a large 
number  of  male  and  female  guests  were  assem- 
bled, the  bride  was  still  sitting  in  her  closed 
sedan,  and  the  bedding  was  being  carried  into 
her  room.  After  peeping  in  at  her  through  the 
curtain  of  her  chair,  we  went,  by  invitation,  to 
see  the  bride-chamber,  which  was  ornamented 
for  the  occasion.  There  were  many  finely 
dressed  women  in  waiting,  several  of  whom  we 
were  told  were  the  daughters-in-law  of  the  fam- 
ily. On  coming  again  to  the  reception  hall,  we 
had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  bride  leave  the 
sedan,  and  together  with  the  bridegroom,  who, 
by  the  way,  she  then  saw  for  the  first  time,  per- 
form their  first  act  of  worship,  which  is  the  most 
important  feature  in  the  marriage  ceremony.  In 
front  of  the  sedan  was  placed  a small  imitation 


86 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


of  a saddle,  emblematic  of  something,  I forget 
■what,  with  a gaudy  red  flannel  covering  thrown 
over  it.  There  were  three  cushions  upon  the 
floor  in  front  of  a table,  upon  which  stood  the  an- 
cestral tablets,  and  several  red  wax  candles  burn- 
ing. A man,  who  acted  as  master  of  ceremonies, 
stood  at  one  side.  When  all  was  ready,  he 
called  out  with  a loud  voice,  “ Prostrate  your- 
selves ! ” At  once  the  bride  and  groom  and  a 
male  attendant,  for  whom  the  third  cushion  was 
spread,  all  knelt.  Two  waiting  women  at  the 
bride's  side,  assisted  her  to  obey  the  order. 
Another  call,  “ Raise  the  incense  ! ” and  the 
male  attendant  placed  three  small  bundles  of 
lighted  incense-sticks  in  a vase  on  the  table. 
Then  came  more  prostrations.  I think  the  un- 
happy  couple  had  thus  to  rise  and  kneel,  full 
twenty  times,  in  performing  the  ancestral  wor- 
ship. When  it  was  completed,  a handsomely 
dressed  boy,  with  a tasselled  cap,  came  forward, 
and  read,  in  a clear,  loud  voice,  a congratulatory 
paper,  with  the  names  of  the  parties,  the  year, 
month,  and  day  of  the  wedding,  ending  with  best 
wishes,  etc.,  etc.  This  finished,  the  bride  and 
groom,  followed  by  a crowd  of  women,  were  con- 
ducted to  the  bride’s  room.  On  the  front  of  a 
Ningpo  bedstead  is  an  enclosed  platform,  several 


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87 


inches  from  the  floor,  two  or  three  feet  wide,  with 
,a  seat  at  the  head  and  foot.  The  bride  seated 
herself  at  the  head,  and  the  groom  at  the  foot  of 
the  bed,  facing  each  other.  Two  cups  of  wine, 
tied  together  by  a long  string,  were  handed  one 
to  each.  After  tasting  it,  the  wine  was  poured 
back  and  forth  from  one  to  the  other,  and  they 
drank  again.  Here  the  bride  and  groom  for  the 
first  time  saw  each  other’s  faces,  — one  of  the  at- 
tendants, with  a long  stick,  having  removed  the 
covering  of  the  bride’s  head  just  before  she 
tasted  the  wine. 

Next,  two  cups  of  some  sort  of  food,  emblemat- 
ical of  kind  and  cordial  feeling,  were  brought, 
and  one  presented  to  each.  These,  like  the 
wine,  were  exchanged,  and  I think  mixed. 

Presently  the  groom  rose,  and  for  one  mo- 
ment sat  upon  the  side  of  the  bed  ; the  next  he 
rushed  precipitately  out  of  the  room.  This  is 
usually  the  signal  for  a general  merry-making, 
— the  women  and  children  trying  to  prevent 
his  escape.  But  that  day,  for  some  reason, 
he  was  permitted  to  make  his  exit  without  mo- 
lestation. 

Now  commenced  the  dressing  and  undressing 
of  the  bride.  Her  tire-woman  took  off  the  large 
crimson,  embroidered  wrapper,  which  had  envel- 


88 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


oped  her  from  head  to  foot,  and  also  some  other 
garments,  and  then  proceeded  to  re-dress  her, 
adding  garment  to  garment  until  it  seemed  as  if 
she  must  be  burdened  bv  their  weight.  This 
over,  she  was  brought  out  from  the  bedside  to  a 
dressing-table,  where  a basin  of  hot  water  was 
given  her  to  wash  her  face.  This  operation,  un- 
fortunately, served  to  render  more  apparent  the 
fact  that  the  poor  bride’s  face  was  very  badly 
pock-marked.  One  and  another  of  the  women 
present  exclaimed,  “ Oh,  what  a pity  ! She 
would  not  be  very  ugly,  were  it  not  for  the 
small-pox  ! How  dreadfully  she  is  pitted  ! ” 
I felt  so  sorry  for  the  young  creature ; and  I 
remarked,  by  way  of  consolation  to  her,  and 
of  reproof  to  the  others,  “ What  matters  it, 
if  she  is  good  and  lovely,  whether  she  is  or  is 
not  pretty ! ” Afterwards  I heard  them  re- 
peating my  remark,  evidently  pleased  that  I had 
taken  the  poor  thing’s  part. 

When  she  had  been  duly  washed,  dressed, 
powdered,  and  painted,  a luncheon  was  set  before 
her ; and  while  the  waiting  women  held  up  the 
veil  of  pearls  at  each  side,  she  ate  a few  grains 
of  rice,  and  a morsel  of  other  food.  She  was 
not  allowed  to  take  more,  even  if  she  wished  it. 
After  this,  she  was  led  here  and  there,  to  pay 


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89 


her  respects  to  the  guests,  who  were  expected  to 
examine  her  fine  clothes,  and,  also,  her  tiny  feet, 
and  to  express  unbounded  admiration  of  every- 
thing about  her,  especially  of  the  little  feet, 
which  were  so  small  as  to  compensate,  in  a meas- 
ure, for  the  ugliness  of  her  face.  She  was  soon 
after  conducted  to  her  mother-in-law’s  apart- 
ments, to  pay  her  respects  to  her.  She  had  not, 
as  yet,  come  near  her  new  daughter-in-law,  nor 
given  her  one  kindly  word  of  welcome ; and  she 
did  not  exhibit  the  least  warmth  or  interest  in 
meeting  her.  After  following  the  bride  from 
place  to  place,  we  came  away,  feeling  that  a 
newly  married  Chinese  lady  is  not  to  be  envied. 
Through  all  these  performances  she  is  not  ex- 
pected to  say  one  word,  unless  in  a very  low 
tone  to  her  attendants.  She  stands  like  a 
statue,  or  walks  about  like  an  automaton, — a 
poor,  sad,  lonely  creature,  no  matter  how  gay 
the  assembled  company.  There  are  so  many 
forms  and  trifling  practices  connected  with  be- 
trothals and  marriages  in  China,  that  it  would 
require  a volume  to  describe  them  minutely,  nor 
would  they  be  of  interest  to  most  persons.  I 
shall  not  allow  myself  to  go  into  particulars. 
The  marriages  of  our  native  converts,  although 
agreeing  in  some  respects  with  those  of  other 


90 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Chinese,  have  always  a Christian  ceremony  sim- 
ilar to  our  own. 

When  a Christian,  as  is  often  the  case,  is 
obliged  to  marry  a person  who  is  still  a heathen, 
he  or  she  is  placed  in  a most  trying  position. 
Of  course  a Christian  cannot  consent  to  perform 
the  usual  idolatrous  rites ; while  the  other  party 
is  equally  unwilling  to  omit  them.  Sometimes, 
when  the  bride  is  a Christian,  and  her  husband 
and  his  family  are  not,  she  is  forced  to  kneel  be- 
fore the  ancestral  tablets,  and,  if  she  resists,  a 
most  unhappy  scene  is  sure  to  follow. 

Of  course  it  is  most  desirable  that  Christians 
should  never  marry  heathens ; but  when  a be- 
trothal has  taken  place  in  infancy,  or  childhood, 
the  marriage  often  cannot  be  avoided,  as  the 
Chinese  regard  the  betrothal  almost  as  binding 
as  a marriage,  and  are  nearly  as  unwilling  to 
break  it. 

Our  boarding-school  for  girls  has  furnished 
wives  for  most  of  the  native  pastors,  and  there 
have  been  some  very  happy  marriages  between 
pupils  in  the  two  schools.  There  is  no  social 
intercourse  allowed  between  these  pupils,  but 
they  see  each  other  at  church  and  occasionally 
elsewhere  ; and,  if  I am  not  mistaken,  there  have 
been  some  cases  of  “falling  in  love  ” among  them. 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


91 


At  least  they  have  strong  likes  and  dislikes,  even 
when  not  a word  has  been  exchanged. 

When  I was  teaching  my  singing-class  in  the 
chapel  on  North  Bank,  the  boys  sat  on  one  side, 
and  the  girls  on  the  other,  quite  separate.  But 
a few  times  I intercepted  little  billet-doux  pass- 
ing between  them,  not  always  of  so  “ sweet  ” a 
character  either ; for  one  of  these,  I remember, 

read  as  follows,  — “You,  K H , need 

not  look  so  proud,  and  walk  so  loftily.  You 
have  scald-head , anyhow,  and  are  no  better  than 
others  ! ” (Scald-head  is  a disease  not  uncom- 
mon in  China.)  The  writer  of  this  grew  to  be  a 

lovely  and  useful  woman.  K PI is 

now  an  ordained  and  efficient  minister.  He  had 
then  a somewhat  haughty  bearing,  and  was  very 
good-looking.  This,  however,  seemed  not  to  have 
awakened  admiration  among  the  little  girls,  so 
much  as  their  dislike,  because  they  thought  him 
“ proud.” 

From  about  the  time  of  my  visit  in  America 
there  were  many  encouraging  indications  that 
the  work  which  had  heretofore  advanced  so  slow- 
ly was  beginning  to  make  more  rapid  progress. 
The  number  of  native  converts  and  inquirers 
was  greatly  increased ; out-stations  were  formed, 
long  itinerations  were  undertaken,  and  the  Sab- 


92 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


bath  church  services  became  more  solemn  and 
interesting.  The  sermons  preached  on  these  oc- 
casions Avere  carefully  prepared,  and  listened  to 
with  the  deepest  attention,  while  ‘ 1 our  hymns  of 
love  and  praise,”  led  by  one  of  the  young  men 
from  the  school,  and  joined  in  most  heartily  by 
nearly  the  whole  congregation,  were  indeed  soul- 
stirring. I have  always  regarded  it  as  a delight- 
ful compensation  for  the  injury  sustained  to  my 
voice  that,  chiefly  owing  to  my  efforts  in  teach- 
ing singing,  our  native  Christians  have  since 
been  able  to  join  so  heartily  and  sweetly  in  the 
praises  of  the  sanctuary.  Besides  the  two 
boarding-schools,  there  were  at  this  time  several 
day-schools  under  the  care  of  different  ladies  in 
the  mission.  It  was  so  difficult  to  induce  the 
pupils  to  attend  with  regularity,  that  we  were 
obliged  to  pay  them  a small  sum  each  day. 
However,  the  fault  lay  with  the  parents  rather 
than  the  children. 

On  some  of  Mr.  Nevius’  itinerations,  in  the 
autumn  of  1858, 1 accompanied  him.  We  went 
together  to  San-poh,  and  visited,  besides  our  out- 
stations  there,  many  of  the  towns  and  villages 
which  are  scattered  over  that  fertile  plain. 
Here  I,  as  well  as  my  husband,  had  as  much 
work  as  my  strength  was  equal  to.  Mr.  Nevius 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


93 


would  leave  me  at  some  respectable  bouse,  while 
he  went  out  to  find  the  men  of  the  place,  either 
in  their  fields  or  shops.  Curiosity  would  soon 
bring  a crowd  of  women  and  children  about  me, 
and,  after  their  many  questions  were  answered,  I 
would  tell  them  of  our  object  in  coming,  and 
urge  them  to  forsake  their  idols  and  turn  to 
J esus.  The  poor  creatures  seemed  often  pleased 
and  grateful  for  our  interest  in  them ; and  we 
could  but  hope  that  some  of  the  seed  thus  scat- 
tered might  some  time  spring  up  and  bear 
fruit. 

This  kind  of  work  is  fatiguing  in  the  extreme ; 
too  much  so  indeed  for  a lady,  unless  she  is  unu- 
sually strong.  Even  the  gentlemen  often  come 
home  from  their  itinerating  tours  quite  worn 
out. 

I have  very  pleasant  recollections  of  a visit  we 
made,  in  company  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Knowlton, 
to  the  region  called  by  foreigners  Snowy  Valley. 
This  jaunt  was  undertaken  for  recreation  rather 
than  work ; though  it  is  always  intended  to  com- 
bine the  two,  as  far  as  practicable.  Leaving 
Ningpo  in  boats  at  evening,  we  made  the  first 
stage  of  our  journey  by  night.  Morning  found 
us  approaching  the  hills,  and  near  the  termi- 
nation of  boat  navigation. 


94 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


As  I have  before  remarked,  the  Ningpo  plain, 
being  devoted  to  rice  culture,  is  irrigated  from 
the  canals,  and  for  several  months  each  year  is 
completely  submerged.  The  warm  spring  sun 
causes  rapid  evaporation,  and  at  times  it  seems  as 
if  we  were  living  in  a vast  vapor  bath.  In  the 
spring  and  early  summer  it  rains  almost  con- 
stantly, and  the  effect  upon  health  and  spirits 
is  anything  but  favorable.  Another  source  of 
great  annoyance  is  the  intolerable  odors,  which 
load  the  atmosphere  so  that  one  would  gladly 
stop  breathing  or  smelling,  if  that  were  possible. 
With  great  delight,  then,  we  occasionally  escape 
to  a region  of  pure  air  and  lovely  sights.  There 
is  no  scenery  in  the  neighborhood  of  Ningpo 
more  inviting  than  Snowy  Valley  and  its  vi- 
cinity. A few  miles  from  the  terminus  of  boat 
navigation  on  the  river  we  reach  the  foot  of  the 
mountains,  and  the  landscape  becomes  wild  and 
broken.  There  is,  however,  as  in  Chinese  sce- 
nery generally,  a strange  mingling  of  wildness 
and  softness.  Many  of  the  hill-sides  are  ter- 
raced and  cultivated  to  their  very  tops.  In 
one  instance  we  counted  seventy  of  these  ter- 
races. Other  hills  are  covered  with  almost  un- 
broken forests  of  bamboo  and  pine.  The  most 
remarkable  feature  of  this  locality  is  the  water- 


TSIN-DZIANG-NGAEN  WATERFALL. 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


95 


falls  and  ravines  which,  in  Western  lands,  would 
attract  crowds  of  admiring  visitors.  Mountain 
streams,  forcing  their  way  to  the  plain  below, 
form  a succession  of  water-falls  of  great  height 
and  singular  beauty.  Near  each  of  these  cata- 
racts is  a Buddhist  monastery ; and  innumerable 
smaller  shrines  are  scattered  here  and  there,  by 
the  wayside,  or  in  niches  in  the  rocks.  Tsin- 
dziang-ngaen,  the  first  of  these  falls,  is  about 
three  hundred  feet  high,  and  the  rocks  on  either 
side  are  much  higher.  Not  far  from  this,  on 
another  stream,  is  a very  lovely  cascade  called 
Long-ing-den,  “Dragon’s  shady  dell.”  About 
five  miles  distant  is  still  another  fall,  five  hundred 
feet  high,  and  in  some  respects  more  beautiful. 
It  is  called  Z-wu.  The  volume  of  water  is  not 
great,  and,  before  it  reaches  the  rocks  below,  it 
is  converted  into  light,  feathery  foam.  Taghanuc 
Falls,  on  the  west  bank  of  Cayuga  Lake,  in  New 
York,  is  strikingly  like  it,  but  Taghanuc  is  not 
half  as  high,  nor  has  it  as  much  water.  The 
descent  to  the  bed  of  the  stream  below  seemed 
almost  impossible ; but,  a short  distance  from  the 
precipice,  my  husband  discovered  a footpath, 
down  which  we  all  scrambled,  and,  with  only  a 
few  bruises  and  scratches,  reached  the  bottom  in 
safety.  Here  the  view  was  magnificent ; the  fall 


96 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


itself,  the  towering  rocks,  the  grand  old  trees 
with  their  tangled  underwood,  and  the  clear 
stream  gliding  swiftly  over  its  bed  of  pebbles  and 
rocks,  formed  a scene  ever  to  be  remembered 
with  pleasure. 

The  old  monastery,  where  we  spent  our  nights, 
afforded  but  the  poorest  accommodations.  Like 
nearly  all  similar  establishments  it  is  evidently 
going  to  decay.  At  certain  seasons  it  has 
crowds  of  worshippers,  but  the  dilapidated  build- 
ings and  general  air  of  neglect  are  evidence 
that  the  resources  of  the  place  are  not  what 
they  once  were.  One  evening,  taking  a lighted 
candle  in  my  hand,  I went  from  my  room 
through  several  courts  to  meet  my  husband, 
whom  I was  expecting  home.  As  I was  pass- 
ing through  the  largest  hall  of  the  temple,  a 
gust  of  wind  extinguished  my  light,  and  left  me 
groping  my  way  in  the  dark,  among  the  huge, 
grim  figures  on  every  side  of  me.  Just  then, 
the  great  bell  of  the  temple  began  to  toll ; and 
as  its  tones  reverberated  through  the  nearly 
empty  rooms,  although  I am  not  particularly 
superstitious,  I confess  to  feeling  that  I was  not 
quite  as  far  removed  from  the  presence  of  the 
evil  one  as  would  have  been  agreeable.  At 


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97 


length,  I found  a door,  and  was  glad  to  make 
my  escape  into  a different  atmosphere. 

After  a few  days  spent  very  delightfully  at 
this  place,  we  returned  to  Ningpo  by  a different 
route,  stopping  the  first  night  in  the  valley  just 
below  the  monastery,  at  the  house  of  one  of  our 
servants.  Some  member  of  his  family  had  died 
five  days  previously,  and  preparations  were  be- 
ing made  for  the  funeral  on  the  morrow.  The 
ceremonies  and  performances  were  something 
after  the  order  of  an  Irish  “wake.”  A concert 
of  the  most  doleful  music,  interspersed  occa- 
sionally by  the  explosion  of  fire-crackers,  was 
kept  up  through  the  whole  night.  Immense 
kettles  of  food  were  cooking  on  the  fires,  and,  as 
the  house  had  no  chimneys,  we  in  the  second 
story  wTere  nearly  smothered  by  smoke.  But 
nothwithstanding  the  smoke  and  the  noise  and 
confusion,  we  slept  part  of  the  night,  and  early 
the  next  morning  resumed  our  journey.  The  first 
stage  was  made  on  rafts  of  light  bamboo  poles 
fastened  together.  It  was  a pleasant  day,  all 
the  more  so  that  the  sun  was  obscuied.  The 
stream  had  frequent  rapids,  do'ftn  which  we 
glided  swiftly,  though  the  water  was  often  so 
shallow  that  the  raft  touched  the  stony  bottom. 
After  reaching  the  deeper  part  of  the  river,  we 
7 


98 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


took  boats  for  the  remainder  of  the  journey. 
Some  of  the  Ningpo  river  boats  are  very  com- 
fortable, that  is,  to  persons  who  can  accommo- 
date themselves  to  circumstances.  They  are 
sculled  by  a man  who  stands  in  the  stern.  In 
the  middle  of  the  boat  is  a small  cabin,  about 
ten  or  twelve  feet  long,  and  six  or  seven  wide. 
It  is  covered  by  a matting,  which,  as  it  droops  at 
the  sides,  leaves  only  a narrow  space  in  the 
centre,  where  even  a short  person  can  scarcely 
stand  erect.  In  one  end  is  a raised  platform,  on 
which  we  spread  our  mattresses  at  night. 
There  is  a little  window  at  each  side,  which,  if 
wind  and  weather  allow,  we  keep  open  to  admit 
light  and  air  ; and  often  at  evening,  or  when  the 
sky  is  clouded,  the  matting  overhead  is  lifted 
and  pushed  back,  allowing  an  unobstructed  view 
of  the  river  and  surrounding  country.  The 
little  cabin,  which  has  usually  a tiny  table  and 
one  or  two  chairs,  serves  as  a bedroom  at  night, 
and  a parlor  and  dining-room  by  day.  On  our 
return  from  “ Snowy  Valley,”  on  the  occasion 
to  which  I have  alluded,  we  were  not  so  fortu- 
nate as  to  secure  such  comfortable  boats  as  those 
I have  described.  We  hung  up  screens  to  pro- 
tect us  from  the  wind,  and  spread  our  mattresses 
on  the  floor.  Having  been  broken  of  our  rest 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


99 


for  several  nights  in  succession,  we  reached 
home  pretty  well  tired  out,  but  feeling  that  the 
pleasure  of  the  excursion  far  more  than  com- 
pensated for  the  fatigue. 

One  evening,  in  the  autumn  of  this  year,  as  my 
husband,  Mr.  Gamble,  and  myself  were  sitting  in 
our  parlor,  we  heard  an  unusual  noise  in  the 
rooms  below.  Supposing  it  was  made  by  the 
servants,  we  took  no  notice  of  it,  until  the  wash- 
erman came  running  upstairs  in  great  distress, 
exclaiming,  “ The  clock  is  missing  ! ” The  two 
gentlemen  ran  below,  and,  sure  enough,  the 
empty  shelf  where  the  clock  had  stood  ac- 
counted for  the  noise  we  had  heard  but  a 
moment  before.  The  thief  had  entered  by  the 
front  door,  and  carried  off  the  clock  and  a few 
other  small  articles.  I mention  this  trifling; 
incident,  only  because  a narrative  of  life  in 
China  might  be  thought  by  some  uninterest- 
ing and  incomplete  without  some  thefts  and  the 
like  to  vary  it.  But  I must  add  that  this  was 
the  only  loss  of  any  amount  which  we  experi- 
enced while  living  in  Ningpo.  It  was  our  cus- 
tom to  allow  Chinese  guests  to  go  freely  through 
all  parts  of  our  house,  examining  books,  pic- 
tures, and  various  mementos  of  home  ; but  we 
rarely  missed  anything,  though  they  might 


100 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


easily  have  pilfered  had  they  been  so  dis- 
posed. 

I find  the  two  following  incidents  in  a letter 
of  about  the  same  date  as  the  events  of  which  I 
have  been  writing. 

There  was  a local  insurrection  in  the  country 
a few  miles  from  Ningpo,  occasioned  by  oppres- 
sion and  extortion  on  the  part  of  the  officers. 
Troops  were  sent  thither,  and,  after  a short 
struggle,  the  country  people  were  obliged  to 
yield.  Among  the  terms  imposed  upon  them 
was  the  surrender  of  their  chief  and  leader. 
This  man,  named  S.  Chu-feng,  was  brought  to 
Ningpo,  and,  for  the  few  days  previous  to  his 
execution,  was  confined  in  a cage  exposed  to  the 
gaze  of  all  who  cared  to  see  him.  Much  sym- 
pathy was  felt  for  him,  as  he  was  not  more  to 
blame  than  many  others ; and,  in  fact,  the  provo- 
cation was  so  great  as  almost  to  justify  the 
revolt.  My  husband  visited  him  in  his  prison, 
and  had  a long  and  serious  conversation  with 
him.  A day  or  two  after  this  interview,  as  Mr. 
Nevius  was  passing  through  a street  in  the  city, 
his  attention  was  arrested  by  several  open  bas- 
kets suspended  from  a pole.  In  each  of  these 
baskets  was  a gory  head,  evidently  just  decapi- 
tated : and  one  of  these  he  recognized  as  that  of 


RETURN  TO  NINGPO. 


101 


poor  S.  Chu-feng.  It  was  a horrid  sight,  but 
one,  alas  ! too  common  in  this  age  of  anarchy  and 
rebellions. 

About  the  same  time  Mr.  Nevius  went,  by  re- 
quest, to  visit  a prisoner  at  the  English  Consul- 
ate, — a man  who  at  one  time  declared  himself  an 
American  citizen,  at  another  an  English  subject, 
as  suited  his  convenience.  He  professed  to  have 
been  praying  since  he  had  been  in  prison,  but 
said  “he  did  not  get  any  comfort.”  Mr. 
Nevius  concluded,  after  conversing  with  him, 
that  he  was  “anxious”  only  to  get  released 
from  confinement,  and  feigned  this  appearance 
of  religious  interest  only  to  awaken  sympathy 
and  gain  assistance.  He  exhibited  as  deplorable 
ignorance  of  the  Bible,  and  the  way  of  salva- 
tion through  Christ,  as  a very  heathen. 

The  number  of  such  characters  in  foreign 
ports  is  so  great  as  to  be  a disgrace  to  our  nom- 
inally Christian  nations,  and  a great  hindrance 
to  the  spread  of  the  gospel.  Some  of  these  law- 
less foreigners  have  been  well  educated,  and  be-\ 
long  to  highly  respectable  families  in  their  native 
land.  But,  having  given  loose  reins  to  the 
downward  tendencies  of  their  natures,  in  the 
course  of  a few  years  they  sink  so  low  in  sin  and 
infamy,  that  even  the  heathen  look  upon  them 


102 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


with  astonishment.  I have  in  my  mind  more 
than  one  such  person,  who,  having  left  a home 
of  affluence  and  refinement,  has  by  indulgence 
in  opium-smoking,  intemperance,  and  other 
vices,  speedily  changed  from  a young  and  vigor- 
ous man  into  a faded  and  decrepit  creature,  just 
tottering  on  the  edge  of  an  unknown  and  dis- 
honored grave.  Sometimes,  at  the  last  hour, 
a missionary  is  summoned  to  listen  to  heart- 
broken confessions  of  penitence  and  grief;  and 
to  point  the  wanderer  to  Him  who  is  able  to 
save  unto  the  uttermost  all  who  come  unto  God 
by  Him.  Sadder  still  is  the  case  of  others, 
whose  consciences  are  so  blunted  and  hardened 
by  their  lives  of  sin,  that  even  in  the  hour  of 
death  they  feel  no  sorrow  for  the  past,  and  no 
longings  for  a better  life. 


CHURCH  AND  SCHOOLS  AT  NTNGPO.  103 


CHAPTER  Y. 

CHURCH  AND  SCHOOLS  AT  NINGPO. — CHINESE 
WOMEN. 

Our  communion  season,  about  the  beginning 
of  the  year  1859,  was  one  of  great  interest  to  us 
all.  Twelve  persons  were  received  into  the 
church  by  baptism.  Of  this  number,  two  were 
husband  and  wife ; three  were  a grandmother, 
daughter,  and  grand-daughter ; and  another  was 
little  Ping-fong,  whom  I shall  mention  hereafter. 
As  the  applicants  knelt  to  receive  the  holy  ordi- 
nance, our  hearts  were  filled  with  joy  and  thank- 
fulness, and  many  prayers  were  offered  that  the 
vows  then  assumed  might  never  be  broken. 

Another  of  those  who,  on  this  day  for  the  first 
time,  sat  down  to  the  table  of  our  Lord,  was 
a member  of  the  graduating  class  in  the  boys’ 
school.  His  name  was  Chong-eng.  He  had 
been  for  years  in  the  school,  but  it  was  not  until 
the  time  drew  near  when  he  must  leave  us,  that 
he  became  more  particularly  anxious  upon  the 


104 


OUR  LIFE  IK  CHIKA. 


subject  of  religion.  His  mother  was  a poor 
woman,  and  in  a measure  dependent  upon  him 
for  support.  She  had  looked  forward  to  his  leav- 
ing the  school  with  impatience,  and  had  secured 
him  what  she  considered  a good  situation  in  busi- 
ness. What  were  her  grief,  then,  and  indignation 
when  she  found  that  these  cherished  plans  were  to 
be  thwarted,  and,  worse  still,  both  he  and  she  to 
be  disgraced  through  his  becoming  a Christian! 
When  Chong-eng  had  positively  decided  to  confess 
Christ,  he  visited  his  mother  to  acquaint  her  with 
his  resolution.  As  he  had  anticipated,  she  received 
the  avowal  with  a storm  of  tears  and  curses.  But 
he  was  firm,  and  returned  to  tRe  school,  where  he 
had  yet  a few  days  to  remain  previous  to  the 
expiration  of  the  time  of  his  indenture.  He  re- 
ceived baptism  the  Sabbath  preceding  that  I have 
mentioned.  On  the  Saturday  before,  his  mother 
made  her  appearance  to  endeavor  once  more  to 
prevent  this  dreaded  calamity.  Threats,  argu- 
ments, entreaties,  were  freely  used,  not  only  with 
Chong-eng,  but  also  with  us,  for  having,  as  she 
said,  perverted  her  son.  Mr.  Nevius  and  I both 
tried  in  every  possible  way  to  allay  her  fears  and 
soften  her  prejudices;  but  with  no  success.  At 
length  she  gave  herself  up  to  despair.  I never 
saw  a more  wretched-looking  creature.  She  was 


CHURCH  AND  SCHOOLS  AT  NINGPO.  105 


detained  at  our  house  for  some  days  by  a storm, 
but  I could  not  induce  her  to  eat  our  rice.  “ She 
would  not  be  indebted  for  food  to  those  who  had 
thus  caused  the  ruin  of  her  son.”  I have  a vivid 
recollection  of  her,  as  she  sat  hour  after  hour  on 
the  side  of  her  bed,  scarcely  speaking  a word  to 
any  one,  and  her  expression  the  concentration  of 
disappointment  and  ill-humor.  Years  passed. 
Chong-eng  became  a minister  of  the  gospel,  and 
a very  useful  man.  He  married  a pretty  and 
amiable  girl,  who  had  been  adopted  when  a child 
by  Dr.  and  Mrs.  McCartee.  His  mother — the 
bitter  enemy  of  Christianity,  and  most  violent  op- 
poser,  though  she  did  it  in  ignorance  — has  since 
followed  her  son’s  example,  and  professed  Christ 
before  men.  Surely  we  ought  not  to  limit  the 
power  and  grace  of  God  ! 

Ping-fong,  whom  I mentioned  before  as  one 
of  the  twelve  who  received  baptism  on  the  same 
day,  was  a great  favorite  of  mine.  His  history 
was  a strange  one.  One  morning  there  was  a 
knock  at  the  outer  door  of  the  school-court.  A 
servant  opening  it  found  a small  boy,  who  said 
he  wished  to  attend  the  school.  He  was  ragged 
and  weary ; and,  had  it  not  been  for  a certain  air 
of  manliness  and  independence,  he  might  have 
been  taken  for  a beggar.  His  brogue  was  so  pe- 


106 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


culiar  that  it  was  with  difficulty  our  Ningpo  peo- 
ple could  understand  him.  He  had  come,  he  said, 
from  the  city  of  Tong-Yiang,  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  in  the  interior,  with  the  hope  of  gain- 
ing admittance  to  this  institution.  Mr.  Nevius, 
and  Mr.  Cobbold,  of  the  Church  of  England,  had, 
on  a long  itinerating  tour,  visited  the  vicinity  of 
Tong-Yiang,  and  an  uncle  of  Ping-fong  had 
chanced  to  hear  them  speak  of  our  boys’  school 
in  Ningpo.  He  related  what  he  had  heard  at 
the  house  of  Ping-fong.  It  so  happened  that 
just  at  this  time  the  boy  was  in  great  trouble. 
His  father  had  been  a scholar,  and  his  family 
were  very  respectable,  although  in  greatly  re- 
duced circumstances.  His  two  mothers  (for  his 
father  at  the  time  of  his  death  had  two  wives) 
and  his  brother  had  come  to  the  decision  to  ap- 
prentice Ping-fong  to  learn  the  tailor’s  trade. 
To  this  he  had  a great  repugnance.  As  he  told 
me  afterwards,  when  his  uncle  was  telling  them 
about  the  free  school  in  Ningpo,  the  “words 
fell  into  his  heart,”  and,  from  that  time,  when 
his  brother  and  his  mothers  were  discussing  their 
plans,  he  was  saying  to  himself,  “ Oh,  if  I 
could  but  get  to  Ningpo! ” No  one  guessed  his 
thoughts,  and  he  did  not  disclose  them.  But 
when  he  had  matured  his  project,  unknown  to 


CHURCH  AND  SCHOOLS  AT  NINGPO.  107 


any  one,  he  started  for  Ningpo.  He  had  only 
about  two  hundred  cash  — hardly  equal  to  twenty 
cents  — with  which  to  defray  the  expenses  of  the 
journey.  He  had  never  been  from  home,  and  did 
not  know  the  way;  yet  he  seems  to  have  met  with 
little  difficulty.  He  walked  most  of  the  distance, 
and  at  the  end  of  six  days  had  reached  Ningpo. 
I can  imagine  his  anxiety  while  the  question  of 
his  admission  to  the  school  was  yet  undecided. 
His  story  seemed  so  strange,  that  it  was  not  un- 
til letters  had  been  written  to  certain  individuals 
whom  he  mentioned  as  acquaintances,  that  we 
felt  sure  he  was  speaking  the  truth.  At  length 
all  such  doubts  were  removed,  and  he  began  his 
studies.  He  improved  rapidly,  and  by  his  good 
conduct  became  a favorite  with  both  teachers  and 
pupils;  and,  better  than  all,  he  soon  began  to  give 
evidence  of  love  to  the  Saviour.  When  he  had 
been  with  us  a few  months,  his  older  brother, 
who  had  succeeded  in  tracing  the  little  runaway, 
came  to  Ningpo  in  search  of  him.  He  seemed 
delighted  to  find  Ping-fong  doing  so  well,  and 
willingly  indentured  him  to  the  school  for  six 
years.  Before  the  close  of  the  first  year  Ping- 
fong  was  taken  very  ill.  We  thought  he  would 
die,  and  he  thought  so  himself.  When  Mr.  Nev- 
ius  told  him  this  he  said,  ‘‘Ping-fong,  are  you 


108 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


afraid  to  die?”  He  promptly  answered,  “No.” 
“ Tell  me  why  you  do  not  fear  to  die?”  contin- 
ued Mr.  Nevius.  He  paused  a little,  and  an- 
swered, “Jesus  Christ  died  to  save  sinners.  I 
am  a sinner,  and  I have  asked  Christ  to  save  me ; 
I know  he  will  not  reject  me.”  He  remained 
quiet  a few  moments,  and  then  added,  very 
thoughtfully : “ When  I remember  how  God 
called  me  from  my  distant  home  in  Tong-Yiang, 
and  brought  me  here  so  that  I might  learn  of  the 
Saviour ; and  when  I think  how  kind  and  good 
he  has  been  to  me,  I feel  sure  that  he  will  never 
cast  me  off.”  At  another  time  he  seemed 
troubled,  not  for  himself  however.  “I  hoped,” 
said  he,  “to  have  gone  back  to  my  home,  and 
have  told  my  friends  of  J esus ; and  now  how  can 
they  hear  of  him  ? Will  you  promise  me,  Mr. 
Nevius,  that,  if  I die,  one  of  the  native  assist- 
ants shall  go  there  to  teach  them?”  The  prom- 
ise was  made,  and  his  mind  seemed  relieved.  It 
pleased  God,  however,  to  spare  his  life,  and  he  is 
now,  after  having  graduated  from  school,  engaged 
in  assisting  at  an  out-station,  at  the  same  timff 
that  he  continues  his  theological  studies.  He  is 
not  by  any  means  a faultless  character ; but  there 
is  much  to  admire  in  him,  and  we  hope  that  he 
will  prove  a very  valuable  man,  and  carry  into 


CHURCH  AND  SCHOOLS  AT  NINGPO.  109 


his  work  of  preaching  the  gospel  the  same  quali- 
ties which  so  distinguished  him  as  a boy.  He  was 
only  about  eleven  years  of  age  when  he  came  to 
us.  Those  who  love  to  trace  particular  provi- 
dences, I think,  will  not  fail  to  see  one  in  the 
case  of  Ping-fong. 

Although  Mr.  Nevius  was  at  this  time  super- 
intendent of  the  boys’  school,  the  principal  care 
and  tuition  of  the  pupils  devolved  upon  Mr.  Zi, 
the  native  teacher.  He  was  an  elder  in  the 
church,  and  a most  judicious  and  consistent 
Christian.  His  influence  was  excellent,  and, 
while  under  his  care,  the  boys  improved  rapidly 
both  in  their  studies  and  deportment.  He  died 
several  years  since,  loved  and  regretted  by  all 
who  knew  him. 

The  girls’  school,  which  was  superintended  by 
Mr.  Rankin,  was  also  under  the  more  immediate 
charge  of  the  natives.  Mr.  Lu,  another  of  the 
members  of  the  church,  and  Mrs.  Lu,  devoted 
themselves  to  it;  and,  if  improvement  in  the 
pupils  was  a test,  no  plan  could  have  been 
better. 

Every  one  familiar  with  the  Presbyterian 
Mission  in  China  has  heard  at  least  the  name 
of  the  Lu  family.  Long  years  ago,  when  mis- 
sionaries first  went  to  Ningpo,  the  father  of  the 


110 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


present  Lu  sin-sang,  was  employed  as  a teacher. 
He  afterwards  accepted  the  position  of  secre- 
tary to  an  officer,  or  something  of  that  sort,  and 
went  to  reside  in  a distant  province.  He  did 
not  himself  embrace  Christianity,  but  must  have 
been  convinced  of  its  worth ; for,  as  he  was  leav- 
ing home,  he  said  to  his  wife,  — “ Now,  if  at  any 
time  in  the  future  our  son,  Kyiae-Dzing,  should 
wish  to  become  a Christian,  you  must  not  oppose 
him ; for  the  religion  is  true.”  The  young  Mr.  Lu 
was  employed  for  a time  by  Mr.  William  Martin 
as  his  teacher.  While  imparting  instruction  in  the 
language,  he  became  interested  in  Christianity, 
and,  in  the  course  of  a few  months,  it  was  evident 
that  he  sincerely  believed  the  gospel,  and  was 
desirous  to  obey  it ; and  now  he,  like  so  many 
of  our  Chinese  Christians,  had  to  endure  a species 
of  persecution,  perhaps  as  hard  to  bear  as  any 
other.  When  his  mother  heard  of  his  purpose, 
notwithstanding  the  parting  injunction  of  her 
husband,  she  positively  forbade  her  son  to  make 
a profession  of  Christianity.  She  threatened 
suicide  in  case  he  did  so ; she  would  not  survive 
the  disgrace,  but  would  surely  drown  herself. 
This  was  no  unmeaning  threat ; on  the  contrary, 
there  was  every  reason  to  think  she  would  carry 
it  into  execution.  Mr.  Lu’s  wife,  t<~  whom  he 


CHURCH  AND  SCHOOLS  AT  NINGPO.  Ill 


was  devotedly  attached,  for  a time  joined  with 
the  other  members  of  his  family  in  their  opposi- 
tion. Even  in  his  private  devotions,  he  was 
constantly  interrupted  and  ridiculed.  At  length, 
worn  out  by  this  sort  of  treatment,  he  was  taken 
violently  ill,  and  for  weeks  his  mind  was  so  much 
affected  that  his  friends  were  fearful  he  might 
become  permanently  insane.  His  family  were 
greatly  alarmed,  especially  as  they  felt  that  his 
illness  was  perhaps  the  result  of  their  unkind- 
ness. When,  therefore,  he  began  to  recover,  they 
relaxed  in  their  opposition,  and  Mr.  Lu  united 
with  the  church.  He  soon  after  had  the  pleas- 
ure of  seeing  his  wife  a follower  of  J esus ; and, 
as  years  have  passed,  one  and  another  has  joined 
them,  until  now,  his  mother  and  sister  and  his 
son,  besides  his  wife’s  aged  grandmother,  and 
other  relatives  in  the  family,  are  all  professing 
Christians.  The  younger  Mrs.  Lu  is  a very  in- 
teresting person.  Modest,  retiring,  gentle,  with 
yet  a great  deal  of  force  of  character,  she  is  con- 
sidered by  some  of  her  foreign  friends  as  almost 
a model  Christian  lady.  Her  sincere  piety  and 
the  refinement  of  her  manners  have  had  an  ex- 
cellent influence  upon  the  pupils.  Most  of  the 
time  for  the  last  ten  years  she  has  been 
matron  of  the  school,  and  the  duties  of  her 


112 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


position  she  has  discharged  with  great  faith- 
fulness. 

She  has  but  one  child  living,  — a son,  who  is 
now  studying  theology.  I think  she  had  lost 
three  children  before  she  became  a Christian, 
and  at  least  that  many  since.  Before  she  had 
learned  of  Him  who  took  little  children  in  his 
arms  and  blessed  them,  her  feelings  towards  her 
children  who  died  in  infancy  were  just  like  those 
of  her  heathen  country  women.  They  were 
not  even  buried.  Now  this  is  not  because  Chi- 
nese women  are  destitute  of  natural  affection. 
By  no  means  ; on  the  contrary,  they  love  their 
children,  while  living,  with  the  same  devoted 
affection  that  Christian  mothers  do.  But  a 
wretched  superstition,  the  fruit  of  heathenism, 
has  blighted  the  tender  mother  love.  It  is  sup- 
posed, if  a child  dies  in  infancy,  that  this  event  is 
a proof  that  the  soul  which  inhabited  the  little 
body  originally  'belonged  to  an  enemy,  or  to 
some  defrauded  creditor  of  an  ancestor,  who, 
having  failed  to  get  his  dues  in  the  previous 
state,  has  entered  this  child’s  body,  to  give  anx- 
iety, care,  and  trouble  until  the  debt  is  fully 
cancelled.  When  therefore  an  infant  dies,  the 
love  of  its  parents  dies  with  it.  Many  precau- 
tions are  made  use  of,  such  as  sweeping  the 


CHINESE  WOMEN. 


113 


house,  exploding  fire-crackers,  and  the  like,  to 
frighten  away  the  dreaded  spirit. 

A few  years  since  Mrs.  Lu  lost  a dear  little 
girl,  about  two  years  old.  It  had  been  the  pet 
and  darling  of  its  parents,  who,  having  lost  so 
many  other  children,  clung  the  more  closely  to 
this.  It  was  indeed  a lovely  child,  and  when 
God  took  it  from  them  the  grief  of  its  parents 
was  intense.  I saw  it  in  its  coffin.  The  mother 
was  bending  over  it,  stroking  and  caressing  the 
little  face  as  if  it  had  been  in  life.  No  one  who 
saw  her  then  could  doubt  her  love.  She  has 
since  been  called  to  part  with  a little  boy,  who 
died  when  some  months  younger.  But  she  sor- 
rows not  now,  as  £<  others  who  have  no  hope;  ” 
for  she  knows  that  though  her  loved  ones  cannot 
return  to  her  she  will  soon  go  to  them,  and  that 
together  they  will  spend  an  eternity  with  Him 
who  said,  “ Suffer  little  children  to  come  unto 
me,  and  forbid  them  not ; for  of  such  is  the  king- 
dom of  heaven.”  It  is  delightful  to  see  such 
evidences  as  these  of  the  purifying  and  enno- 
bling influences  of  Christianity  on  our  native 
converts. 

Among  those  who  have  been  educated  at  the 
girls’  school,  there  have  been  some  very  interest- 
ing and  lovely  characters.  I regret  that  I have 
8 


114 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


not  known  them  intimately  enough  to  give  a 
sketch  of  any  one  of  them.  Several  are  now 
wives  of  our  native  assistants.  Others  there 
were,  who,  having  illustrated  the  beauty  and  ex- 
cellence of  consistent  Christian  lives,  have  been 
early  removed  to  a better  world.  Such  were 
Ah-yuing,  wife  of  Tsiang  Vong-kweng,  Yuih-ing, 
wife  of  Bao  Kwang-hyi,  and  Ah-o,  the  faithful 
wife  and  helper  of  the  lamented  Rev.  Kying  Ling- 
yiu.  The  children  educated  in  our  boarding- 
schools  are  entirely  free  from  most  of  the  su- 
perstitions prevalent  among  their  countrymen. 
They  have  an  advantage  in  many  ways  over  those 
brought  to  a knowledge  of  Christianity  later  in 
life. 

It  may  perhaps  be  considered  strange,  by 
many  persons  in  this  country,  that  our  female 
pupils  are  allowed  to  observe  the  objectiona- 
ble practice  of  compressing  the  feet.  In  the 
course  of  years  no  doubt  our  native  Christians 
will  of  their  own  accord,  abandon  it ; but  until 
they  do  so.  our  mission  has  not  thought  it  best 
to  make  it  “a  case  of  conscience.”  or  of  dis- 
cipline. In  Ningpo  nearly  all  respectable 
females  have  compressed  feet ; a large-footed 
woman,  and  a woman  of  abandoned  character, 
are  almost  synonymous.  In  our  mission  families, 


CHINESE  WOMEN. 


115 


and  in  the  different  schools,  there  have  always 
been  a few  girls  whose  feet  have  never  been 
bound,  and  the  mortification  to  which  they  were 
subjected,  in  consequence,  has  been  almost  un- 
bearable. In  passing  through  the  streets,  on 
their  way  to  and  from  church,  they  have  been 
the  subject  of  epithets  and  insulting  remarks,  to 
which  it  seems  almost  cruel  to  have  exposed 
them.  Another  thing : it  has  heretofore  been 
nearly  impossible  to  make  suitable  marriages  for 
those  who,  by  not  binding  the  feet,  had  ren- 
dered themselves  objects  of  notoriety  among  their 
own  people.  Even  the  young  men  educated  in 
our  schools  much  preferred  a wife  with  little  feet. 
But  I think  a great  change  is  taking  place  in 
this  respect,  and  I quite  hope  that  soon  they  will 
have  a more  correct  taste.  Among  the  school 
girls  were  some  who  were  so  mortified  with  the 
size  of  their  feet  that,  when  they  were  grown 
and  had  returned  to  their  friends,  they  resorted 
to  the  expedient  of  placing  a false  heel  under 
the  middle  of  the  foot,  in  such  a way  that  they 
could  wear  a small  shoe.  The  pantalets,  which 
are  always  worn  so  as  to  cover  the  ankle,  in  this 
case  also  covered  the  natural  heel,  projecting 
over  the  top  of  the  shoe.  When  this  is  well  done 
the  deception  is  perfect,  though  it  is  never  a 


116 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


pretty  foot,  according  to  Chinese  ideas.  I should 
think  it  would  be  exceedingly  uncomfortable; 
but  u anything  for  fashion  ” seems  to  be  a lady's 
motto  the  world  over.  I was  pleased  to  see 
that  the  wife  of  one  of  the  native  assistants,  who 
had  resorted  to  the  expedient  above  mentioned, 
afterwards,  of  her  own  accord,  discarded  the  false 
shoe,  and  returned  to  the  simplicity  of  nature ; 
not  quite  that  either,  for  her  foot  had  been  some- 
what disfigured  by  compression,  although  the 
process  had  been  incomplete.  When  a foot  has 
been  thoroughly  bound,  it  is  nearly  if  not  quite 
impossible  to  dispense  with  the  bandages,  and  to 
restore  the  foot  to  its  natural  shape.  It  would 
occasion  great  suffering,  and,  in  fact,  in  many 
cases,  it  would  be  useless  to  attempt  it.  Some- 
times when  the  Chinese  are  remonstrated  with 
on  the  wickedness  or  absurdity  of  this  custom, 
they  readily  admit  it ; but  assert  that,  in  their 
eyes,  compressing  the  feet  is  not  nearly  as  per- 
nicious a fashion  as  that  of  Western  ladies  com- 
pressing their  waists.  They  insist  upon  think- 
ing— whether  with  reason  or  not  there  may  be 
difference  of  opinion — that  the  usual  slender 
waists  of  foreign  ladies  must  be  the  result  of  our 
peculiar  mode  of  dress ; and,  as  this  involves 
compressing  very  vital  parts  of  the  body,  it  must 


CHINESE  WOMEN. 


117 


be  more  injurious  to  health  than  their  practice 
of  binding  the  feet. 

Who  knows  but  that  the  Chinese  are  right  ? 

Were  our  object  in  living  among  the  Chinese 
simply  to  effect  a change  in  either  their  outward 
deportment  or  national  costume,  it  would  cer- 
tainly be  an  unnecessary  waste  of  time  and 
strength ; as  they  are  an  exceedingly  courteous 
and  polite  people,  and  their  mode  of  dress  is  both 
graceful  and  convenient.  As  their  fashions 
change  but  little  year  after  year,  they  are  saved 
thereby  an  endless  amount  of  labor  and  an- 
noyance. 

The  garments  worn  by  males  and  females  are 
very  similar,  but  perfectly  distinguishable  to 
those  accustomed  to  them.  Both  sexes  wear 
loose  flowing  trousers,  and  a long  double-breasted 
tunic  or  sacque,  buttoned  closely  round  the  neck 
and  at  one  side.  The  women  generally  wear 
gayer  colors,  and  garments  profusely  ornamented 
with  embroidery.  At  Ningpo  they  have  a pret- 
tily made  petticoat  reaching  nearly  to  their  little 
feet,  which  they  take  special  pains  not  to  cover. 

The  costume  of  the  Chinese  in  different  lo- 
calities differs  but  little,  yet  there  are  certain  pe- 
culiarities which  a native  discovers  at  a glance, 
and  which  determine  unmistakably  to  what  part 


118 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


of  the  empire  the  wearer  belongs.  On  the  whole, 
I think  a Ningpo  lady’s  dress  is  prettier  and 
more  becoming  than  any  of  the  northern  cos- 
tumes, or  of  the  more  southern,  as  far  as  I am 
familiar  with  them.  The  Ningpo  style  of  dress- 
ing the  hair,  though  unnecessarily  artificial  and 
elaborate,  is  really  becoming,  and  more  tasteful 
than  the  stilfer  coiffures  of  ladies  elsewhere. 
The  time  consumed  by  women  in  China,  in  ar- 
ranging their  hair,  is  much  greater  than  is  re- 
quired by  foreign  ladies  ordinarily.  I have  been 
told  by  our  female  servants  that  they  usually 
spend  a full  hour  upon  theirs ; while  it  is  not 
unusual  for  persons  of  leisure  to  devote  two  hours 
to  this  object.  But  this  waste  of  time,  as  it 
seems  to  us,  is,  I suppose,  one  of  their  most 
agreeable  recreations,  and  helps  to  while  away 
many  an  otherwise  tedious  hour. 

Women  of  the  lower  and  middle  classes  are 
obliged  to  assist  in  performing  the  ordinary  work 
of  their  families.  They  cook,  wash,  and  sew, 
look  after  their  children,  etc.,  and  are  generally 
busy  and  industrious.  In  the  monotonous  rou- 
tine of  these  every-day  duties,  their  time  passes, 
if  not  very  pleasantly,  yet  rapidly,  and  they  are 
often  at  least  negatively  happy.  But  in  the  case 
of  the  wealthy,  who  consider  labor  a degradation, 


CHINESE  WOMEN. 


119 


and  who,  by  their  total  want  of  education,  are 
shut  out  from  all  intellectual  pleasures,  and, 
bj  the  customs  of  the  country,  from  much  social 
intercourse,  life  must  often  prove  indeed  a weari- 
ness. Of  course,  as  they  know  of  nothing  better, 
their  situation  is  not  so  unbearable  as  it  would  be 
were  they  aware  of  the  different  position  and 
the  happy  lives  which  women  in  some  other  parts 
of  the  world  enjoy.  They  frequently  occupy 
themselves  with  games  of  chance ; cards  and 
dominos,  if  I remember  rightly,  are  some- 
times favorites ; and  many,  though  not  all,  are 
taught  embroidery,  in  which  the  Chinese  ex- 
cel. In  former  times  ladies  of  rank  were  often 
instructed  in  music,  and  performed  upon  the  lute 
and  other  instruments.  But  nowadays  this  ac- 
complishment must  be  rare,  as  I have  seldom 
seen  a Chinese  lady  who  had  the  slightest 
knowledge  of  any  musical  instrument  whatever. 

Chinese  females  are  greatly  given  to  petty 
gossip.  Many  hours  are  passed  in  discussing 
household  matters ; matrimonial  schemes ; the 
characters  and  conduct  of  the  different  daugh- 
ters-in-law, in  their  family,  or  among  their 
friends  ; or  the  mothers-in-law,  their  kindness  or 
tyranny,  as  the  case  may  be ; the  beautiful 
feet  of  certain  ladies  of  their  acquaintance,  or 


120 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


perhaps  the  piety  of  some  relative ; or  the  re- 
puted power  of  a favorite  deity,  and  the  special 
advantages  derived  from  worshipping  at  some 
particular  temple.  As  the  Chinese  are  an  ex- 
ceedingly superstitious  people,  stories  of  ghosts 
and  hobgoblins,  and  mysterious  appearances 
of  all  sorts,  form  an  exhaustless  fund  for  an- 
ecdote and  tale.  Then  there  is  the  kindred 
subject  of  geomancy,  or  luck,  which  is  rich  in 
topics  for  conversation.  So  that,  after  all,  “ wo- 
man’s tongue  ” need  not  remain  quiet  in  China 
for  want  of  subjects  to  talk  about. 

But,  oh,  the  utter  worthlessness  and  vanity 
of  all  this  foolish  conversation ! I long  to 
have  the  women  of  China  capable  of  some- 
thing nobler  and  better.  And  indeed  there  is 
no  lack  of  natural  ability.  Their  minds  are 
bright  and  active,  and  all  they  need  to  place 
them  on  an  equality  with  their  favored  sisters 
of  other  lands  is  a truly  Christian  education, 
and  the  purifying  and  ennobling  influence  of  a 
life  of  faith  and  obedience  to  the  precepts  of  the 
gospel. 

How  dark,  how  utterly  cheerless,  must  be  the 
inner  life  of  heathen  women,  whether  their  social 
position  be  high  or  low  ! There  must  come  times 
in  the  lives  of  even  the  most  thoughtless  among 


CHINESE  WOMEN.  - 


121 


them,  when  this  vain,  fleeting  world,  with  its 
few  illusory  pleasures,  appears  in  its  true  light, 
and  a longing  for  something  nobler  and  better 
must  possess  their  souls.  The  book  of  nature, 
spread  open  before  them,  speaks  to  their  hearts 
of  the  great  Creator.  They  see  his  hand,  they 
feel  his  breath,  — they  would  fain  know  more. 
But,  ah ! can  poor  ignorant  women,  in  their 
feeble  searchings,  “find  out  God”?  Where 
their  greatest  sages  have  failed  to  give  one  dis- 
tinct utterance,  is  it  to  be  expected  that  these 
poor  creatures  can  gain  a clear  conception  of 
Him  who  has  indeed  given  glimpses  of  himself  in 
his  glorious  works,  and  in  the  hearts  and  con- 
sciences of  his  creatures,  but  who,  in  his  revealed 
word  only,  has  “brought  life  and  immortality  to 
light”  ? And  thus  it  is  that,  wearied  and  disap- 
pointed in  their  vain  search,  yet  feeling  that  they 
must  have  something  to  fill  the  natural  longings 
of  their  hearts,  they  turn  to  their  own  false  sys- 
tems of  idolatry.  But  these,  though  they  may 
for  a time  divert  the  mind  and  allay  its  restless- 
ness, cannot  impart  hope  and  comfort  for  the 
future.  When  death  is  realized  as  at  hand, 
when  its  cold  touch  is  felt,  then,  oh,  then, 
what  can  cheer  and  sustain  them  ? “ Heart  and 

flesh  fail  them,”  but  no  Saviour  is  near  with 


122 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


sweet  assurances  of  his  presence  and  love.  There 
remains  for  them,  for  our  poor  lost  sisters,  only 
a “ fearful  looking  for  of  judgment,’’  and  a vain 
shrinking  from  the  retributions  of  the  future, 
which  they  instinctively  feel  must  await  them. 
And  if,  as  it  sometimes  happens,  even  conscience 
seems  dead,  and  natural  love  of  life  has  well- 
nigh  faded  away,  and  death  is  regarded  with 
apathy,  or  mere  stoical  indilference,  the  case  is 
not  less  pitiful ; for  when  no  veil  can  longer 
hide  the  dread  realities  of  a future  world,  how 
fearful  must  be  the  awakening  ! 

We  women  in  Christian  lands  realize  far  too 
little  how  entirely  our  present  elevated  position 
is  due  to  the  prevalence  of  true  religion.  Ought 
we  not,  in  gratitude  for  the  distinguishing  bless- 
ings conferred  upon  us,  to  make  more  strenuous 
efforts  for  the  good  of  females  in  still  heathen 
nations  ? Not  only  is  there  the  greatest  need 
of  schools  for  the  education  of  children  ; but  the 
women  also  must  be  taught.  There  is  room  for 
the  united  efforts  of  hosts  of  women  even  in 
China.  No  closed  u zenanas  ” prevent  our 
reaching  those  whom  we  long  to  instruct.  The 
females  are  secluded,  to  be  sure,  but  patient, 
judicious  effort  will  usually  gain  access  even  to 
the  homes  of  the  rich  and  powerful ; while  thou- 


CHINESE  WOMEN. 


123 


sands  of  humbler  dwellings  welcome  our  pres- 
ence : and  I am  convinced  that  encouragements 
will  not  be  wanting  in  the  future,  as  certainly 
they  have  not  been  in  the  past,  to  reward  every 
faithful  worker  in  this  humble  sphere  of  Chris- 
tian effort.  Not  until  Chinese  women  have  been 
Christianized  will  they  be  raised  from  their 
present  degraded  position  to  fill  their  rightful 
place  as  the  helps  and  companions  of  man.  And 
shall  not  we,  who  are  already  experiencing  the 
blessings  and  advantages  of  birth  and  training 
in  Christian  lands,  be  willing  to  forego  some  of 
the  pleasures  and  luxuries  of  our  favored  homes, 
in  order  to  carry  these  blessings  to  those  who  are 
now  without  them  ? Freely  we  have  received, 
let  us  freely  give. 

But  the  work  begun  by  us  will  be  carried  for- 
ward by  the  dear  converts.  There  are  no  more 
effectual  messengers  to  the  hearts  and  homes  of 
heathen  females  than  they  who,  having  experi- 
enced the  power  of  the  gospel  in  their  own  souls, 
can  speak  sympathizingly  and  lovingly  to  such 
as  are  still  strangers  to  it.  The  experiment  has 
repeatedly  been  tried.  We  have  already,  in 
almost  every  mission  station,  numbers  of  hum- 
ble Christians,  who,  by  their  consistent  conduct, 
and  improved  dispositions,  are  “living  epistles,” 


124 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


which  the  heathen  around  them  are  obliged  to 
acknowledge  and  appreciate.  They  are  u lights 
in  a dark  place,”  a “ little  leaven,”  which  is 
working  surely,  though  slowly,  upon  the  dense 
mass  of  superstition  and  wickedness.  And,  as 
converts  increase,  it  will  not  be  difficult  to  find 
competent  females  willing  to  act  as  assistants  to 
the  missionary’s  wife,  or  other  foreign  teachers, 
in  visiting  among  native  families,  and  instructing 
the  women  and  children.  In  my  opinion,  this 
work  is  scarcely  second  to  any  other  in  impor- 
tance and  hopefulness.  To  say  the  least,  it  is  a 
most  interesting  auxiliary  to  other  departments 
of  missionary  operations. 

u Elevate  woman,  if  you  would  renovate  socie- 
ty,” is  a saying  which  has  been  so  often  quoted  that 
it  has  become  trite  ; but  it  has  not  lost  a whit  of 
its  truthfulness  from  its  frequent  repetition. 

There  are  not  a few  individuals,  and  among 
them  I know  of  some  excellent  missionaries,  who 
dislike  the  idea  of  unmarried  ladies  undertaking 
a mission,  such  as  I have  suggested,  in  a foreign 
and  heathen  land.  Of  course  I do  not  expect 
that  anything  I can  say  would  remove  their 
prejudice  ; but  I can  only  record  my  own  convic- 
tion that  the  work  of  visiting  and  teaching  from 
house  to  house,  day  after  day ; giving  instruction 


CHINESE  WOMEN. 


125 


in  the  truths  of  Christianity,  and  urging  the 
obligation  to  believe  and  obey  them,  is  in  China 
an  eminently  practicable  life-work,  and  one  which 
promises  to  any  one  having  “faith  and  patience  ” 
a sure  and  blessed  reward.  There  would  be 
some  difficulties,  some  annoyances,  and  not  a few 
discouragements.  A life  spent  in  this  way  of- 
fers very  few  “ worldly  enjoyments,”  while  it 
involves  many  serious  trials ; but,  after  all,  the 
“ hundred-fold,  even  in  this  life,”  I believe,  will 
always  be  realized.  Is  not  the  consciousness 
that  we  are  working  for  Christ,  in  direct  obedi- 
ence to  his  command,  enough  to  compensate  for 
some  discomforts,  some  losses  and  crosses  ? 
Among  the  happiest  and  most  useful  persons  I 
have  ever  known  were  single  ladies,  who  had 
given  themselves  and  their  all  to  this  work  of 
bringing  heathen  women  to  a knowledge  of 
Christ.  Are  there  not  many,  in  this  favored 
land,  who  would  gladly  join  us  in  our  efforts  for 
the  good  of  Chinese  females  ? I think  I can 
assure  such  that,  even  if  their  trials  should  prove 
greater  than  they  had  anticipated,  so  also  would 
their  pleasures;  and  at  the  close  of  their  lives, 
should  they  be  long  or  short,  they  would  have 
the  unspeakable  pleasure  of  having  tried  to  do 
something  for  Jesus. 


126 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 

During  the  year  1858,  a very  important 
meeting  took  place,  in  the  north  of  China,  between 
the  plenipotentiaries  of  China,  and  of  Russia, 
England,  France,  and  the  United  States.  This 
meeting  resulted  in  the  formation  of  new  trea- 
ties, securing  to  foreigners  greatly  increased  priv- 
ileges. There  seemed  no  reason  to  doubt  that 
the  Chinese  bad  acted  in  good  faith,  and  that  their 
new  engagements  would  be  strictly  adhered  to. 
We  missionaries,  as  well  as  the  friends  of  Christ’s 
cause  everywhere,  were  much  encouraged,  and 
felt  that  the  time  had  come  for  extending  our 
efforts  to  those  regions  from  which  we  had  until 
then  been  excluded. 

While  the  foreign  ambassadors  had  returned 
to  submit  the  newly  formed  treaties  to  their  re- 
spective governments,  previous  to  their  ratifica- 
tion by  the  Chinese,  the  missionaries  were 
earnestly  considering  in  what  way  they  might 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW.  127 


best  avail  themselves  of  the  anticipated  openings. 
The  American  treaty,  although  it  conferred  but 
slight  advantages  for  our  work,  had,  owing  to  an 
adroit  insertion  of  a clause  insuring  a share  in 
the  benefits  obtained  by  the  “ most  favored 
nations,”  made  us  participants  in  everything 
gained  by  any  one  of  the  new  treaties,  or  of  all 
combined.  Although,  as  American  citizens,  we 
had  no  legal  right  to  reside  anywhere  but  at  the 
open  ports,  yet  fully  expecting  the  speedy  ratifi- 
cation of  the  other  treaties,  which  secured  much 
more  freedom,  it  was  decided,  early  in  the  year 
1859,  to  try  the  practicability  of  commencing  a 
new  station  at  Hang-chow,  the  capital  of  the 
Che-kiang  Province.  As  the  climate  of  Ningpo 
was  trying  both  to  Mr.  Nevius  and  myself,  and 
for  several  other  reasons,  we  very  willingly 
undertook  this  new  mission. 

Hang-chow  is  situated  upon  the  Tsin-tang 
River,  some  distance  from  where  it  empties  into 
the  Hang-chow  Bay.  It  is  in  the  northern  part 
of  the  province,  about  one  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  distant  from  Shanghai  on  the  north-east, 
and  Ningpo  on  the  south-east.  It  is  an  exceed- 
ingly  well-built  city,  surrounded  by  a wall  more 
than  thirty  feet  in  height.  Many  of  the  houses, 
both  shops  and  private  residences,  are  large  and 


128 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


costly  ; and  the  place  has  an  air  of  respectabil- 
ity and  importance,  very  different  from  ordinary 
Chinese  towns.  Its  streets,  which  are  paved 
with  stone,  are  clean  and  comparatively  wide. 
The  surrounding  country  is  rich  and  populous. 
Although  on  two  sides  of  the  city  there  is  a vast 
plain,  in  which  rice  is  extensively  cultivated,  it 
does  not  seem  as  low  and  malarious  as  the 
region  about  Ningpo.  Numerous  canals  inter- 
sect this  plain, — some  broad  and  deep,  others 
narrow  and  winding  here  and  there  like  by-roads 
in  our  own  country. 

Boats  filled  with  passengers  or  produce  are 
seen  on  every  hand ; and  many  are  the  evidences 
of  great  productiveness  in  the  soil,  and  of  the 
industry  of  the  inhabitants.  The  town  stands 
near  the  river,  which  is  at  high  water  about  two 
miles  wide.  A mountain  range  stretches  for 
many  miles  without  the  walls,  in  the  southerly 
direction,  and  a spur  of  this  range,  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  city,  affords  most  desirable  building 
sites.  Almost  as  a matter  of  course  these 
situations  have  been  appropriated  by  the  Budd- 
hists or  Tauists,  who  have  here  numerous  tem- 
ples, — or  rather,  they  once  had ; many  of 
them  have  since  been  destroyed  by  the  rebels. 

At  the  time  of  our  residence  there  the  popu- 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


129 


lation  of  Hang-chow  was  estimated  at  about  one 
million,  and  many  years  previous,  when  it  was 
the  metropolis  of  the  empire,  it  must  have  been 
much  greater.  Marco  Polo,  the  V enetian  travel- 
ler, who  visited  China  about  the  year  1200,  speaks 
of  it,  as  11  pre-eminent  above  all  other  cities  in 
the  world,  in  point  of  grandeur  and  beauty,  as 
well  as  from  its  abundant  delights,  which  might 
lead  an  inhabitant  to  imagine  himself  in  para- 
dise; ” and  in  another  place  describing  Si-wu  or 
West  Lake,  an  artificial  sheet  of  water  just  with- 
out the  city  wall,  he  says  : u All  around  the  lake 
are  beautiful  palaces  and  houses,  so  wonderfully 
built  that  nothing  can  possibly  surpass  them  ; 
they  belong  to  the  great  and  noble  men  of  the 
city.  In  the  middle  of  the  lake  are  two  islands, 
on  one  of  which  stands  a palace  so  wonderfully 
adorned  that  it  seems  worthy  of  belonging  to  the 
emperor.”  Such  description  of  the  Hang-chow 
of  the  present  would  certainly  be  exaggerations ; 
but  still  I can  easily  imagine  that  in  former 
times,  when  emperors  honored  it  by  their  pres- 
ence, and  it  was  the  resort  of  the  aristocracy 
and  nobility  of  the  land,  it  must  have  presented 
as  gay  and  animated  an  appearance  as  one  can 
well  conceive  of  in  China  ; and  I do  not  wonder 
at  the  harmless  enthusiasm  of  the  noted  traveller. 


9 


130 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Lest  I might  myself  be  thought  to  overcolor 
somewhat  in  my  admiration  of  Hang-chow,  I 
shall  quote  a description  from  a more  modern 
writer.  Barrow,  in  his  “ Travels  in  China,” 
says  of  Si-wu  and  its  surroundings  : “ The  nat- 
ural and  artificial  beauties  of  this  lake  far  ex- 
ceeded anything  we  had  hitherto  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  in  China.  The  mountains 
surrounding  it  were  lofty,  and  broken  into  a 
variety  of  forms  that  were  highly  picturesque, 
and  the  valleys  were  richly  clothed  with  trees 
of  different  kinds,  among  which  three  species 
were  remarkably  striking,  not  only  by  their  in- 
trinsic beauty,  but  also  by  the  contrast  they 
formed  with  themselves  and  the  rest  of  the  trees 
of  the  forest.  Tbfese  were  the  camphor  and  tal- 
low trees,  and  the  arbor-vitse.  The  bright  shin- 
ing green  foliage  of  the  first,  mingled  with  the 
purple  leaves  of  the  second,  and  overtopped  by 
the  stately  tree  of  life,  of  the  deepest  green,  pro- 
duced a pleasing  effect  to  the  eye ; and  the  land- 
scape was  rendered  still  more  interesting  by  the 
very  singular  and  diversified  appearance  of 
several  thousand  repositories  of  the  dead,  upon 
the  sloping  sides  of  the  inferior  hills.  Here,  as 
well  as  elsewhere,  the  sombre  and  upright  cy- 
press was  destined  to  be  the  melancholy  compan- 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  IIANG-CHOW. 


131 


ion  of  the  tombs.  Higher  still,  among  the 
woods,  avenues  had  been  opened  to  admit  of  rows 
of  small  blue  houses,  exposed  on  white  colon- 
nades, which,  on  examination,  were  also  found 
to  be  mansions  of  the  dead.  The  margins  of  the 
lake  were  studded  with  light,  aerial  buildings, 
among  which  one  of  more  solidity  and  greater 
extent  than  the  rest  was  said  to  belong  to  the 
emperor.  The  grounds  were  enclosed  with  brick 
walls,  and  mostly  planted  with  vegetables  and 
fruit-trees ; but  in  some  there  appeared  to  be 
collections  of  such  shrubs  and  flowers  as  are 
most  esteemed  in  the  country.” 

Since  this  great  city,  with  its  environs,  creates 
so  striking  an  impression  upon  intelligent  and 
travelled  foreigners,  it  is  not  strange  that  the 
Chinese  have  regarded  it  with  unbounded  admi- 
ration. They  have  a saying,  u Shang  j iu  tien- 
tang ; hia  yiu  Su  Hang;”  that  is,  “ Above  is 
heaven,  below  are  Su-chow  and  Hang-chow.”  I 
have  not  seen  Hang-chow  since  it  was  captured 
and  in  part  destroyed  by  the  rebels.  I suppose 
it  will  never  regain  the  prosperity  and  impor- 
tance which  it  enjoyed  before  that  deplorable 
event.  However,  to  those  who  love  beautiful 
natural  scenery,  it  must  ever  be  a place  of  much 
interest. 


132 


OUR.  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


A favorite  evening  excursion  with  us  while  we 
were  living  in  Hang-chow  was  a stroll  on  the 
margin  of  pretty  Si-wu.  The  emperor's  palace, 
described  by  Marco  Polo,  was  presented  to  the 
Buddhists,  and  it  is  many  years  since  it  was 
graced  by  the  presence  of  royalty.  But  Si-wu 
is  still  a lovely  spot.  The  water,  though  not 
deep,  is  clear  and  pure ; pretty  arched  bridges 
and  raised  causeways  cross  it  in  different  direc- 
tions, and  there  are  many  small  temples  or  rest- 
houses  at  various  points ; and,  if  I remember 
rightly,  there  are  several  eating-houses  or  refec- 
tories for  the  accommodation  of  pleasure-seekers. 
Towards  evening  many  of  the  rich  families  from 
the  city  come  out  for  a row  on  the  lake.  There 
is  a kind  of  boat  nicely  adapted  to  such  purposes, 
having  a roof  and  closed  Venetians,  so  that  fe- 
males within  may  see  without  being  seen.  It  is 
a pretty  sight,  these  flat-bottomed  boats  gliding 
here  and  there,  bright  eyes  peeping  through  the 
lattice,  and  the  sound  of  merry  voices  showing 
that  even  Chinese  ladies  sometimes  have  happy 
hearts,  and  are  fond  of  innocent  amusements. 

When  Mr.  Nevius  first  visited  Hang-chow  he 
was  in  company  with  Dr.  Bradley,  U.  S.  Consul 
at  Ningpo,  and  Mr.  Russell,  of  the  Church  of 
England  Mission.  It  was  at  a time  when  for- 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


133 


eigners  but  seldom  penetrated  so  far  into  the  in- 
terior; and  perhaps  a little  spice  of  novelty  and 
insecurity  rather  added  to  than  detracted  from 
the  pleasure  of  the  trip.  They  were  one  day 
visiting  some  place  of  interest  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Si-wu,  when  they  suddenly  found  them- 
selves face  to  face  with  a party  of  Mandarins 
who  had  come  out  for  a row  on  the  lake.  The 
officers  seemed  much  startled,  and  not  quite 
pleased  with  the  encounter ; and  afterwards  it 
was  found  impossible  to  obtain  any  services  from 
the  natives,  who  evidently  were  much  in  awe  of 
the  magistrates.  The  gentlemen,  moreover,  were 
the  objects  of  constant  surveillance,  one  of  the 
ya-mun  underlings  following  them  like  a shadow. 
[Ya-mun  is  the  name  given  to  the  officials’  resi- 
dences.] At  last,  from  necessity  they  requested 
this  individual  to  procure  them  a boat  in  which 
to  return  to  ISTingpo.  He  did  so  very  willingly, 
and  they  started  for  home.  To  their  annoyance 
he  took  them  directly  to  a ya-mun  within  the 
city,  where  they  were  detained  a long  while ; 
and  it  was  not  until  after  most  tedious  delays, 
and  they  had  begun  to  realize  the  fact  that  they 
were  virtually  prisoners,  that  they  were  for- 
warded on  their  journey.  The  officers  were  not 
aware  that  they  were  treating  thus  unceremoni- 


134 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


ously  a representative  of  the  government  of  the 
“country  of  the  flowery  flag,”  as  Dr.  Bradley 
was  travelling  strictly  incognito.  The  gentlemen 
were  amused,  and  I suspect  somewhat  vexed,  to 
find,  one  morning,  that  they  had  as  travelling 
companions  a boat-load  of  criminals  in  chains, 
who  were  being  carried  from  one  city  to  another. 
After  submitting  to  the  annoyance  of  being 
transported  at  government  expense  for  about 
half  the  distance  to  Ningpo,  they  insisted  posi- 
tively upon  their  escort  leaving  them. ; and,  after 
much  demurring  on  the  part  of  the  officers,  they 
were  allowed  to  proceed  by  themselves.  On 
this  tour  Mr.  Russell  and  my  husband  had  but 
little  opportunity  for  preaching,  but  they  made 
careful  observations  of  Hang-chow,  and  its  vicin- 
ity, and  were  convinced  that  it  was  a most  im- 
portant centre  for  missionary  operations,  and 
ought  to  be  occupied  as  soon  as  possible. 

It  was  no  small  trial  to  both  Mr.  Nevius  and 
myself  to  think  of  leaving  'N  ingpo.  The  work 
there  was  in  a most  interesting  stage  of  progress ; 
and  the  pleasant  circle  of  foreign  friends  gave 
it  no  small  attraction  as  a place  of  residence. 
But  when  a missionary  has  already  made  the 
greater  sacrifice  of  leaving  his  native  land,  and 
the  fond  ties  that  bind  him  there,  he  is  seldom 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


185 


unwilling  to  submit  to  other  privations,  if  the 
cause  of  Christ  seems  to  demand  it. 

In  the  latter  part  of  February  my  husband 
again  visited  Hang-chow,  and  while  there,  was 
the  guest  of  Mr.  Burdon,  a missionary  of  the 
Church  of  England,  whom  he  found  spending 
some  time  in  a boat  without  the  city  walls. 
During  his  visit,  with  the  aid  of  our  Ningpo 
assistants,  they  succeeded  in  hiring  some  apart- 
ments connected  with  a temple  in  the  city,  to 
which  Mr.  Burdon  at  once  removed.  In  one  of 
the  suburbs  about  four  miles  distant  from  the 
city  wall,  my  husband  was  so  fortunate  as  to 
find  a place  to  which  he  thought  he  might  safely 
take  me.  It  was  an  old  monastery,  and  the 
rooms  he  engaged  were  small  and  dark,  but  he 
was  glad  to  secure  them  until  he  could  find  bet- 
ter ones.  Having  completed  the  arrangements, 
he  came  home  to  Ningpo  to  spend  a few  days, 
and  on  the  fourth  of  April  we  started  together 
for  Hang-chow. 

We  left  home  about  nine  o’clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, and,  favored  by  both  wind  and  tide,  at  even- 
ing were  within  a few  miles  of  the  city  of  Yu- 
yiao,  where  we  have  now  a prosperous  out-station. 
While  obliged  to  lie  at  anchor  several  hours 
waiting  a change  of  tide,  the  sight  of  a high  hill 


136 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


not  far  off  tempted  Mr.  Nevius  to  take  a run  od 
shore.  Having  been  ferried  over  a branch  of 
the  river  which  intercepted  his  path,  he  made 
his  way  up  to  the  summit  of  the  hill,  where  there 
was  a house,  which  in  the  dim  twilight  he  mis- 
took for  a Buddhist  temple.  It  proved  to  be  a 
farmer’s  dwelling,  and  its  inmates  were  not  a 
little  startled  by  the  sudden  apparition  of  a 
“red-haired  man,”  as  foreigners  are  usually 
called.  However,  finding  he  could  speak  their 
language,  and  had  evidently  come  with  peaceful 
intent,  they  soon  became  composed,  and  enjoyed 
his  visit  greatly ; considering  it  as  entertaining 
an  episode  in  their  uneventful  life  as  a visit 
from  a Chinese  Mandarin,  or  Japanese  “Tom- 
my” would  seem,  in  a quiet  farmer’s  family  in 
America.  When  he  reached  the  stream,  on  his 
return  to  the  boat,  he  found  that  the  ferryman 
who  had  promised  to  await  him  had  already 
gone.  It  was  dark,  and  there  were  no  other 
boats  near.  When  he  attempted  to  get  back  by 
a circuitous  route,  his  progress  was  constantly 
impeded  by  little  canals  and  ditches.  After 
wandering  about  until  his  patience  was  almost 
exhausted,  he  saw  a light  glimmering  in  the 
distance,  and  guided  by  that  he  soon  reached  a 
little  hamlet.  Here  a good-natured  man  kindly 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW.  137 


ferried  him  across  the  river  and  piloted  him  to 
our  boat,  a distance  of  two  or  three  miles.  Such 
instances  of  true  politeness  are  by  no  means  un- 
common among  the  Chinese. 

On  the  evening  of  this  day  we  were  in  some 
danger  from  pirates.  Even  the  rivers  of  China 
are  infested  by  small  piratical  craft ; and  it  is  a 
sad  fact  that  many  of  these,  like  the  larger 
vessels  of  the  same  class  on  the  coast,  are  in 
command  of  dissolute  foreign  sailors.  Our  boat- 
men were  much  alarmed  by  the  report  that  a 
boat  farther  up  the  river  had  been  attacked  and 
plundered,  and  several  persons  either  killed  or 
wounded.  On  this  account  a large  number  of 
passenger-boats  started  in  company,  and  we  thus 
passed  safely  through  the  danger. 

We  spent  part  of  the  next  day  at  San-poh,  our 
new  out-station. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  of  April  we 
crossed  the  Tsao-wo  River,  a stream  of  consider- 
able size,  which  empties  into  Hang-chow  Bay. 
We  had  much  difficulty  in  securing  boats  in  the 
canal  on  the  opposite  side,  as  nearly  all  had  been 
impressed  into  government  service  for  the  pur- 
pose of  carrying  troops  to  a neighboring  city 
which  was  in  rebellion.  This  canal,  between  the 
Tsao-wo  and  Tsin-tang  Rivers,  is  the  finest  one  I 


138 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


have  ever  seen.  It  is  very  broad,  the  water  is 
deep,  and  its  banks  are  much  pleasanter  than 
those  of  many  of  the  rivers  on  the  plains. 
Just  before  dark  we  reached  Shao-bying,  a 
large  and  flourishing  city  containing  about 
eight  hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  It  would 
have  been  our  shortest  route  to  have  gone  from 
here  directly  to  Siao-san,  a city  opposite  Hang- 
chow, on  the  Tsin-tang  River ; but  in  order  to 
avoid  the  more  public  thoroughfare,  and  a very 
inconvenient  land  carriage,  we  chose  to  leave  the 
main  canal,  and  take  one  which,  branching  off 
towards  the  south,  would  bring  us  to  a point 
fifteen  miles  above  the  city,  on  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  river. 

After  leaving  Shao-hying,  our  route  was 
entirely  uninteresting.  The  weather  was  bad, 
our  boat  a poor  one,  and  we  were  not  sorry  when, 
at  about  dusk  the  next  evening,  we  reached  Nyi- 
gyiao,  the  terminus  of  the  canal.  This  is  an  un- 
walled town  of  no  great  importance,  and,  as  I 
remember  it,  without  the  least  beauty  of  any  sort. 
Here  the  people  were  much  startled  by  our  ap- 
pearance, and  afraid  to  have  anything  to  do  with 
us.  We  had  such  difficulty  in  getting  a boat 
to  take  us  down  the  river,  that  we  were  glad  to 
secure  one  of  the  very  poorest  sort,  even  at  an 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


139 


exorbitant  price.  It  was  covered  by  a coarse 
bamboo  matting,  supported  by  a pole  in  the 
centre ; some  rough  rails  covered  the  bottom ; it 
bad  no  window  nor  doors ; in  fact,  no  divisions 
nor  partitions  from  stem  to  stern.  We  impro- 
vised screens  by  hanging  up  shawls  and  bed- 
quilts,  and  managed  with  some  difficulty  to  put 
up  our  travelling  bedstead  in  such  a position  that 
we  imagined  we  might  be  sheltered  from  the  rain 
and  wind,  at  least  in  a measure.  But  we  had 
not  much  sooner  lain  down  to  sleep  than  the  rain 
forced  its  way  through  the  matting  and  poured 
over  our  bed.  The  bed  was  moved  to  a drier 
spot,  and  again  we  essayed  to  sleep ; and  again 
the  relentless  rain  pursued  and  found  us. 
Several  times,  through  the  course  of  the  night, 
we  were  obliged  to  repeat  the  same  operation.  W e 
had  not  rain  alone  to  contend  with,  but  the  wind 
whistled  through  every  crevice,  and  swayed  our 
temporary  partitions  in  a most  threatening  man- 
ner. I had  drawn  a warm  hood  tightly  over  my 
head,  and  — shall  I tell  it?  — had  also  prevailed 
upon  my  husband  to  allow  me  to  envelop  his 
head  in  an  old  sun-bonnet,  which  I happened 
to  have  with  me.  He  yielded  under  protest; 
but  I believe  he  owed  to  it  his  escape  from  ill 
effects  consequent  upon  such  exposure. 


140 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


We  were  very  glad  when  the  morning  dawned, 
and  this  most  uncomfortable  night  was  only  a 
thing  of  the  past.  The  morning  was  as  charm- 
ing as  the  night  had  been  unpleasant.  The 
storm  was  over,  the  sun  shone  brightly,  and  we 
were  gliding  rapidly  down  the  Tsin-tang  River, 
and  approaching  the  end  of  our  journey.  We 
reached  Loh-o-tah  about  ten  in  the  forenoon. 
I was  delighted  with  it.  Though  the  monastery 
is  small  and  going  to  decay,  its  situation  is  love- 
ly. It  stands  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  is 
shaded  by  immense  camphor-trees,  and  though 
but  a short  distance  from  a busy  suburb,  it  is 
most  quiet  and  retired.  Mr.  Nevius,  on  a pre- 
vious visit,  had  made  an  arrangement  with  the 
abbot  for  accommodations  for  himself  and  me ; 
hut  I think  the  old  priest  had  hoped  I might  not 
actually  come.  However,  he  allowed  us  to  take 
our  rooms,  and  we  spent  the  morning  in  arrang- 
ing them. 

The  chief  attraction  of  the  place  is  the  lofty 
pagoda,  at  the  foot  of  which  the  monastery  stands. 
Loh-o-tah  [or  Loh-o  pagoda]  is  indeed  a most  in- 
teresting object.  It  was  built  more  than  a thou- 
sand years  ago.  It  has  seven  stories,  and  on 
each  story  are  eight  windows.  It  is  octagonal  in 
form,  and  over  two  hundred  feet  high.  The 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOIV. 


141 


diameter  of  its  base  is  about  seventy  feet ; and 
its  outer  walls  are  twelve  feet  in  thickness.  It 
is  built  of  large  well-burnt  bricks,  which  have 
stood  the  storms  of  centuries,  and  are  still  in  a 
good  state  of  preservation.  It  had  formerly 
steps,  and  a balustrade  leading  from  the  bottom 
to  the  top  on  the  outside ; but  these  have  been 
quite  destroyed  by  repeated  strokes  of  lightning, 
and  now  it  can  only  be  ascended  by  the  stairway 
on  the  inside.  This  tower  was  built  in  con- 
sequence of  a superstitious  notion  that  it  would 
protect  the  bank  from  the  encroachments  of  the 
river,  by  offering  resistance  to  a remarkable  tidal 
wave,  which  sweeps  up  the  river  with  almost 
resistless  impetuosity. 

It  happened  that  on  the  day  of  our  arrival  at 
Loh-o-tah  there  were  crowds  of  worshippers ; 
many  of  whom  remained  throughout  the  night, 
chanting,  beating  drums,  and  making  prostrations. 
I noticed  that  the  women  here  seemed  particular- 
ly devout.  They  would  kneel  before  the  idols, 
and  strike  their  foreheads  upon  the  floor  with 
such  force  as  to  produce  a hollow  sound,  which 
we  could  hear  distinctly  where  we  were  standing, 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  distant.  After  dark  the 
pagoda  was  illuminated,  and  nothing  could  be 


142 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


more  beautiful  than  the  appearance  it  then  pre- 
sented. 

The  next  day  Mr.  Burdon,  who  was  still 
living  in  the  city,  came  out  to  pass  the  day  with 
us.  At  evening  we  accompanied  him  some  dis- 
tance on  his  return,  and,  on  our  way  home, 
visited  a Tauist  temple,  called  Uh-hwang  Miao, 
which  crowns  the  summit  of  a hill.  We  met 
here  an  old  Ningpo  man,  whose  case  was  some- 
what peculiar.  He  had  brought  to  this  temple 
all  his  little  property,  the  earnings  of  a lifetime, 
and  in  exchange  was  allowed  to  spend  the  rem- 
nant of  his  days  within  its  sacred  precincts. 
He  had  two  small  rooms,  or  closets,  in  one  of 
which  he  slept,  and  the  other  he  had  made  an 
oratory,  where,  kneeling  before  a picture  of  his 
god,  he  spent  much  of  his  time  muttering  prayers, 
and  counting  his  beads,  and  frequently  kneeling, 
and  knocking  his  forehead  in  the  way  I have 
mentioned  when  alluding  to  women’s  worship  in 
the  temples.  By  the  way,  we  found  this  devotee, 
though  an  inmate  of  a Tauist  temple,  worship- 
ping a Buddhist  deity,  without  apparently  sup- 
posing there  could  be  any  inconsistency  in  so 
doing.  He  had  gone  through  with  the  performance 
called  keli-teo,  or  knocking  the  head,  so  often 
that  it  had  raised  a large  callous  protuberance 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


143 


on  his  forehead.  He  was  a neatly  dressed,  cheery 
old  man,  whose  white  flowing  beard  and  vener- 
able appearance,  interested  us  much.  My  hus- 
band spoke  to  him  of  the  better  way,  and  be- 
sought him  to  believe  in  Jesus,  whose  blood 
alone  could  cleanse  his  heart,  and  gain  him 
those  eternal  blessings  for  which  he  longed.  He 
listened  respectfully,  but  we  had  no  reason  to 
think  he  apprehended  very  clearly  the  wonder- 
ful truths  which  he  then  heard  for  the  first  time. 
Poor  old  man,  so  near  the  eternal  world,  yet  so 
misguided,  so  deluded ! 

While  staying  at  the  Loh-o  monastery  we  had 
crowds  of  visitors.  It  was  the  season  of  the  year 
particularly  devoted  to  worship  in  the  temples, 
which  were  thronged  with  both  men  and  women 
as  I had  never  seen  them  in  Ningpo.  Many  of 
the  women  coming  to  our  temple,  hearing  of  the 
foreign  lady  sojourning  there,  and  actuated  by 
curiosity  alone,  would  desire  to  see  me.  Among 
those  who  requested  an  interview  was  the  wife  of 
the  highest  officer  in  the  province.  I have  al- 
ways regretted  that  I happened  to  be  so  situated 
at  the  time  of  her  visit  as  not  to  be  able  to  re- 
ceive her. 

One  day  Mr.  Burdon,  Mr.  Nevius,  and  my- 
self visited  several  temples  situated  within  a few 


144 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


miles  of  Loh-o-tah.  It  was  a day  which  I can- 
not forget.  I never,  either  before  or  since,  saw 
anything  like  the  multitudes  of  worshippers  who 
were  wending  their  way  towards  the  different 
monasteries.  One  scene,  in  particular,  burned 
itself  into  my  memory.  As  alms-giving  is  con- 
sidered peculiarly  meritorious  by  votaries  of  the 
Buddhist  sect,  the  well-known  fact  is  taken  ad- 
vantage of  by  beggars  from  all  parts  of  the 
country ; and  when  the  pilgrims  approach  their 
sacred  places  they  find  themselves  besieged  by  a 
motley  crowd  of  as  wretched  a class  of  human 
beings  as  this  world  affords.  Blind  and  lame, 
sick  or  starving,  some  crawling  along  the  ground, 
some  running  and  leaping,  they  constantly  placed 
themselves  in  such  positions  that  we  could  not 
possibly  avoid  seeing  them.  Sick  and  horror- 
struck  at  the  sight  of  some  poor  creature  with  a 
foot  or  a hand  actually  eaten  off  by  disease,  we 
would  turn  away,  and  our  eyes  would  fall  upon 
some  monstrous  deformity,  or  heart-rending  suf- 
ferer. I had  never  even  imagined  such  a loath- 
some spectacle  as  that  of  the  beggars,  as  they 
lined  the  way  for  a long  distance  before  the  en- 
trance to  the  Tien-choh  temple.  They  resorted 
to  all  sorts  of  expedients  to  gain  the  attention  of 
passers-by,  and  to  secure  their  alms.  Some  be- 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


145 


sought  us,  in  a plaintive,  sorrowful  tone,  hard  to 
resist,  to  pity  and  help  them ; others  demanded 
our  assistance  in  a most  peremptory  manner, 
with  loud  and  boisterous  voices.  Some  assumed 
an  air  of  great  sanctity,  and,  while  they  chanted 
their  prayers,  held  out  their  hands  to  receive  the 
“ cash,”  which  they  did  not  doubt  such  extreme 
piety  would  extract  even  from  “ hearts  of  stone ; ” 
while  others,  quite  as  sensible,  had  taught  their 
little  dogs  to  kneel  and  hold  a cash-basket  sus- 
pended from  their  mouths,  in  which  to  collect 
the  gifts  of  the  charitable.  It  would  have  been 
easy  to  spend  a fortune  on  these  poor  mendi- 
cants ; but,  having  left  home  without  expecting 
such  demands,  we  had  taken  very  few  “cash,” 
and  thus  I fear  earned  the  reputation  of  being 
less  kindly  disposed  than  we  really  were. 

While  at  Tien-choh-z,  the  gentlemen  at- 
tempted a short  address  to  the  people  assembled 
in  one  of  the  courts.  But  a young  and  intelli- 
gent-looking priest  came  out,  and,  with  a very 
excited  and  indignant  manner,  requested  us  to 
leave ; saying,  with  some  reason,  that,  if  the  for- 
eigners did  not  themselves  believe  in  that  kind 
of  worship,  they  had  no  right  to  interrupt  such 
as  did. 

On  leaving  Tien-choh-z,  we  went  to  another 
10 


146 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


very  pretty  monastery,  called  Yuih-ling.  Here 
we  met  an  individual  who  I think  deserved  the 
name  of  “fop.”  He  was  an  exquisite,  who 
evidently  rested  in  the  idea  that  the  clay  from 
which  he  was  moulded  was  very  different  from  that 
of  ordinary  mortals.  He  certainly  admired  him- 
self unboundedly.  A servant  stood  constantly 
at  his  side,  and,  every  moment  or  two,  refilled  or 
adjusted  his  tobacco  water-pipe,  and  held  it  while 
his  master  smoked.  This  gentleman  had  a re- 
markable fondness  for  watches,  having  three  on 
his  person,  one  or  two  of  which  were  suspended 
in  conspicuous  positions  on  the  outside  of  his 
garments.  We  had  been  introduced  to  him  but 
a few  moments,  when  in  an  adroit  way  he  turned 
the  conversation  to  the  subject  of  watches.  As 
ours  were  out  of  sight,  I think  he  half  suspected 
we  had  none.  I presume  he  regarded  even  me 
with  some  degree  of  respect  when  he  found  that  I, 
also,  carried  a time-piece. 

Before  returning  home  we  visited  a Buddhist 
monastery,  which  has  since  been  destroyed  by 
the  rebels.  It  was  near  the  city  walls,  and  was 
much  frequented  by  the  citizens.  It  had  an  im- 
mense hall  containing  five  hundred  idols.  They 
were  in  size  somewhat  larger  than  a very  large 
man,  and  each  stood  or  sat  upon  a high  pedes- 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


147 


tal.  They  were,  as  works  of  art,  much  better 
executed  than  is  common  in  Chinese  temples, 
and  must  have  cost  enormous  sums  of  money. 
A visit  to  this  hall  seemed  something  like  going 
to  see  a collection  of  statuary. 

There  was  at  this  monastery  a well,  which 
had  a strange  story  connected  with  it.  It  is  so 
thoroughly  Chinese , that  I must  try  to  recall 
it.  There  was,  many  years  ago,  — how  many  I 
know  not,  — at  this  Tsing-z  monastery,  a monk, 
so  holy  and  devout,  that  to  him  the  gods  vouch- 
safed miraculous  gifts,  and  such  a degree  of  dis- 
cernment of  spirit,  good  and  evil,  as  has  rarely 
been  possessed  by  mortals.  One  day  this  holy 
man  saw  a fair  young  maiden,  with  downcast 
eyes,  and  modest  demeanor,  entering  the  sacred 
portals.  Reverently  she  approached  an  idol 
shrine,  as  if  to  worship.  But  no  sooner  had  the 
eyes  of  the  monk  rested  upon  her  than  he  de- 
tected her  true  character.  She  was  an  incarna^- 
tion  of  the  fire-god ; and,  notwithstanding  her 
grace  and  beauty,  her  presence  boded  ill  to  the 
temple.  Consternation  and  dismay  spread 
through  the  monastery.  A few  days  later  their 
worst  fears  were  realized,  and  the  original  Tsing-z 
was  burned  to  the  ground.  “Be  comforted,  dear 
brothers,”  said  the  holy  monk  above  mentioned, 


148 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


“your  temple  shall  speedily  be  rebuilt.  I my- 
self must  leave  you  for  a time ; but  on  such  a 
day  I wish  you  to  go  to  the  well,  which  is  in 
the  south-east  corner  of  the  central  court,  and 
draw  from  it  the  materials  you  will  certainly 
find  there.  He  forthwith  departed,  and,  on  reach- 
ing an  immense  forest  in  the  province  of  Fuh- 
kien,  several  hundred  miles  distant,  he  began  to 
cut  down  trees,  and  throw  them  in  a well  which 
was  near  at  hand.  “ What  can  this  fellow 
mean?  ” said  some.  “He  is  mad,”  said  others. 
But,  paying  no  attention  to  these  malicious  re- 
marks, he  continued  his  labors.  The  brethren 
at  Tsing-z,  obedient  to  his  command,  proceeded, 
at  the  time  appointed,  to  the  well,  and  found 
most  beautiful  timbers  waiting  to  be  drawn  out. 
They  worked  night  and  day,  but  could  not  ex- 
haust the  store.  For  every  one  removed  another 
took  its  place,  until,  worn  out  with  fatigue,  they 
began  to  murmur.  ‘ £ I would  there  were  no 
more  ! ” exclaimed  one  tired  laborer,  as  he  was 
striving  to  raise  a log  of  unusual  size  and  beauty. 
Ho  sooner  were  the  words  uttered,  than  he  felt 
his  burden  become  immovable ; and  not  the  strength 
of  all  the  brothers  combined  could  stir  it.  And 
there  it  remains  to  this  day,  proof  positive  of  the 
truth  of  the  story.  A priest  is  always  in  attend- 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


149 


ance  who,  for  a small  fee,  lowers  a lamp  down  to 
the  edge  of  the  water,  and  reveals  the  mysteri- 
ous object.  We  ourselves  saw  it.  How  it  was 
conveyed  from  distant  Fuchow  to  its  present  po- 
sition is  inexplicable,  except  on  the  supposi- 
tion of  an  underground  canal.  It  is  truly  re- 
markable that  such  a silly  story  can  be  credited 
by  any  one ; but  I think  it  is  at  least  partially 
believed  by  great  numbers. 

I fear  an  account  of  so  many  temples  may 
prove  tedious  ; but  I wish  to  speak  of  just  one 
more,  which  we  visited  a few  days  later.  It 
is  the  Yuing-si  monastery,  situated  among  the 
hills,  several  miles  from  Hang-chow.  It  is  more 
like  a “ fashionable  watering-place”  in  Western 
lands  than  anything  I have  elsewhere  seen  in 
China.  It  does  not  exhibit  the  evidences  of  de- 
cline so  common  in  many  similar  institutions. 
On  the  contrary,  judging  from  the  number  and 
character  of  the  worshippers  present  on  the  day 
of  our  visit,  it  must  be  as  flourishing  as  ever. 
Behind  the  large  buildings  devoted  to  the  idols 
are  numerous  apartments  occupied  by  the  monks, 
of  whom  there  were  in  all  five  hundred,  and  by 
guests  sojourning  there.  I made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  several  very  interesting  ladies  from  the 
city  of  Su-chow.  They,  in  company  with  other 


150 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


members  of  their  family,  were  spending  some 
time  during  the  spring  at  Yuing-si,  employing 
themselves  either  in  acts  of  worship,  or  in  social 
intercourse  with  others  of  their  own  class,  who 
were  there  for  the  same  object.  These  ladies 
were  elegantly  dressed,  and  had  much  ease  and 
suavity  of  manner.  We  mutually  enjoyed  our 
short  interview,  and  parted  with  the  hope  of 
meeting  at  some  future  time.  The  courts  and 
corridors  of  this  immense  establishment  were  so 
numerous  and  intricate  that  I could  never  have 
found  my  way  through  them  without  a guide. 
Nearly  all  the  rooms  on  the  second  floor  were 
used  as  dormitories  for  the  priests,  or  for  the 
numerous  guests.  In  some  of  these  rooms  we  no- 
ticed a most  unusual  article  of  furniture  in  Chi- 
nese houses,  namely,  a bathing-tub.  The  kitchen 
and  dining-room  were  necessarily  on  a most  ex- 
tensive scale.  The  former  contained  numbers 
of  those  immense  iron  kettles,  which  I have  before 
alluded  to,  filled  with  rice  and  vegetables  boiling 
for  dinner.  After  leaving  the  temple,  as  we 
were  passing  through  a long,  winding  avenue  of 
pine  and  bamboo,  we  met  some  boys  with  a few 
pretty  gray  squirrels,  which  they  wished  us  to 
buy,  — not  to  carry  away  with  us,  but  to  set  free 
again,  in  order  to  acquire  merit,  which  is  sup- 


FIRST  VIS.lI  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


151 


posed  to  accrue  from  the  practice  called  u fang- 
seng”  (letting  go  alive).  A little  further  on  a 
long,  large  snake  was  offered  us  for  the  same 
purpose. 

We  were  then  on  our  way  to  visit  an  institu- 
tion such  as  can  be  found,  I presume,  nowhere 
but  in  China,  and  very  seldom  even  there.  It 
was  an  “Asylum  for  Animals,”  connected  with 
the  monastery  we  had  just  left.  Horses  and 
donkeys,  buffaloes  and  oxen,  sheep  and  pigs, 
with  numbers  of  fowls  of  every  sort,  are  brought 
to  this  place,  in  order  to  secure  merit  by  so  doing. 
It  is  supposed  that  animals  which  live  and  die 
under  the  fostering  influence  of  so  holy  an  in- 
stitution as  the  Yuing-si  monastery  are  in  a fair 
way  to  rise  high  in  the  scale  of  existence  in 
another  state.  It  is  then  only  natural  that 
many  a favorite  old  animal  is  thus  given  a friendly 
shove  by  those  whom  it  has  served  faithfully  in 
the  past.  But  in  many  cases  I imagine  that  no 
motive  of  affection  has  room  for  operation.  In 
one  apartment  were  numbers  of  pigs,  in  another 
several  bullocks  and  buffaloes,  in  another  were 
quantities  of  chickens  and  geese.  The  latter, 
with  a few  donkeys,  seemed  to  be  the  musicians 
of  the  establishment.  This  was  not  at  all  an 
agreeable  place  to  visit,  and  we  remained  but  a 


152 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


few  moments.  A little  distance  from  the  asy- 
lum is  the  animals’  burying-place,  — a deep  pit, 
with  a high  wall  round  it. 

A few  days  after  our  expedition  to  the  Yuing- 
si  monastery,  my  husband  received  a visit  from  a 
high  military  officer.  He  was  passing  our  tem- 
ple with  a large  detachment  of  troops  to  encamp 
in  the  neighborhood,  and,  hearing  of  Mr.  Nevius’ 
presence,  called  to  see  him.  He  was  very  polite 
and  affable,  and,  having  had  a slight  acquaintance 
with  foreigners  at  the  open  ports,  was  compara- 
tively well  informed  concerning  Western  lands. 
When  my  husband  returned  his  visit,  he  was  re- 
ceived with  great  ceremony,  — a line  of  soldiers 
being  drawn  up  on  each  side  of  the  walk  from  the 
outer  court  to  the  reception-room,  where  the 
ta-jin  [great  man]  was  seated.  He  was  exceed- 
ingly cordial,  and  they  conversed  for  an  hour  on 
a variety  of  subjects,  such  as  foreign  customs 
and  manners,  ships,  houses,  agriculture,  and  fire- 
arms. Much  also  was  said  in  explanation  of  the 
Christian  religion,  and  the  object  of  our  work  in 
China.  Tea  and  tiffin  were  brought  in,  as  a 
matter  of  course. 

When  my  husband  came  home  from  the  city 
that  evening,  he  brought  me  a piece  of  news  for 
which  I was  not  at  all  prepared.  After  leaving 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


153 


the  ya-mun,  he  visited  an  old  Tauist  temple  on 
the  Ts-yiang-san, — the  highest  hill  within  the 
city  walls.  To  his  surprise,  when  he  suggested 
to  the  old  priest  in  charge  to  rent  us  a few 
rooms  in  one  end  of  the  temple,  his  offer  was  ac- 
cepted. Realizing  the  importance  of  such  a step, 
and  how  much  depended  upon  it  [for  a foreign 
lady  had  never  before  lived  at  Hang-chow,  and  it 
was  very  doubtful  whether  it  would  be  per- 
mitted], it  was  not  until  we  had  spent  a day  or 
two  in  serious  deliberation,  and  prayer  for  guid- 
ance, that  we  came  to  a final  decision  upon  it. 
Then,  without  further  delay,  we  moved  very 
quietly  to  our  new  quarters.  Our  few  articles 
of  furniture  were  carried  in  by  coolies.  I went 
in  a closed  sedan,  in  order  to  avoid  observation, 
and  Mr.  Nevius  rode  the  pony.  A few  curious 
glances,  from  persons  whom  we  met,  made  me 
aware  that  I was  noticed  as  a foreigner  ; but  we 
reached  our  new  home  without  the  least  moles- 
tation. Mr.  Burdon  had  sometime  since  been 
obliged  to  return  to  Shanghai,  so  that  we  were 
quite  alone,  there  being  no  other  foreigners 
nearer  than  Ningpo  and  Shanghai.  The  Tauist 
temple,  of  which,  as  I have  said,  our  rooms  were 
a part,  was  a forlorn  old  building,  but  its  sit- 
uation was  most  charming.  Although  only  a 


154 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


few  moments’  walk  from  some  of  the  most  popu- 
lous parts  of  the  city,  it  was  as  quiet  as  the 
country.  It  stood  on  almost  the  highest  point 
of  the  hill,  and  commanded  an  extended  view. 
Below  us  lay  the  city,  spread  out  like  a map,  with 
streets  and  alleys  branching  in  every  direction, 
and  beyond  it  flowed  the  broad  Tsin-Tang  River, 
with  blue  hills  bounding  the  horizon  in  the  dis- 
tance. Our  presence  becoming  known,  we  began 
to  receive  visits  from  many  of  the  common  people, 
and  also  from  persons  connected  with  the  ya- 
muns.  These  were  invariably  respectful,  but 
they  seemed  to  find  it  difficult  to  understand  the 
motive  which  had  brought  us  there,  or  by  what 
authority  we  had  ventured  to  settle  among 
them. 

Some  of  our  Chinese  friends  suggested  that,  if 
we  should  follow  the  native  custom,  and  pay  our 
respects  to  those  in  authority,  our  position  would 
he  less  doubtful  in  the  eyes  of  the  people.  At 
this  time  Mr.  Culbertson  and  Mr.  G-ayley  of 
Shanghai  happened  to  pay  us  a visit.  They  were 
delighted  with  Hang-chow,  and  the  prospects 
of  our  mission.  Fully  agreeing  with  Mr.  Ne- 
vius  in  the  expediency  of  the  plan  mentioned 
above,  they  accompanied  him  on  a long  round  of 
visits.  The  day  previous  they  sent  their  cards, 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


155 


and  in  every  case,  with  one  exception,  an  answer 
was  returned  signifying  pleasure  at  the  proposed 
interview.  Hang-chow,  being  the  capital  of  the 
province,  has  a large  number  of  officers  of  vari- 
ous grades  residing  there,  and  it  would  have  been 
an  endless  task  to  visit  all;  so  the  gentle- 
men selected  only  those  in  high  positions.  The 
reception  was  all  that  could  have  been  desired. 
One  of  the  chief  officers  asked  a great  many 
questions,  seeming  particularly  curious  about  our 
religion  and  our  native  converts.  “ How  much 
money  do  you  spend  in  the  course  of  the  year? 
Do  you  pay  the  Chinese  for  becoming  Christians, 
and  if  so,  how  much?  Do  you  keep  a record  of 
the  names  of  the  converts  ? How  do  you  know 
that  when  you  have  th§ir  names  you  have  also 
their  hearts?  ” he  asked  ; and  also  whether  there 
were  any  Christians  in  Hang-chow.  These  ques- 
tions were  seriously  asked,  and  not  at  all  in  a 
facetious  spirit.  He  evidently  desired  infor- 
mation upon  those  subjects  of  which  he  was  natu- 
rally ignorant.  The  provincial  governor  alone 
did  not  return  the  visit  in  person,  but,  as  is  com- 
mon, sent  an  inferior  officer  with  his  card  the 
same  day.  On  the  following  morning  our  Shang- 
hai friends  left  us,  and  my  husband  made  the 
remaining  official  calls  by  himself.  Before  he 


156 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


had  completed  his  tour  of  the  ya-muns,  the  officers 
began  to  arrive  to  return  his  visits.  As  I was 
only  “ the  mean  woman  of  the  inner  apartment,” 
as  these  grand  gentlemen  are  wont  to  style 
their  wives,  it  was  not  to  be  thought  of  that  in 
my  husband’s  absence  I should  venture  to  en- 
tertain his  guests;  therefore  they  only  left  their 
cards  and  departed.  Towards  evening,  after  Mr. 
Nevius’  return,  he  received  the  supreme  judge, 
who  sat  a long  while,  and  conversed  very  affably. 
He  inquired  if  we  were  acting  by  the  authority 
and  consent  of  our  king,  in  thus  coming  to  live 
in  Hang-chow.  These  numerous  interviews  with 
educated  men  — of  course  I mean  educated  in  a 
Chinese  sense  — gave  an  opportunity  to  impart 
much  information  concerning  our  objects  in  com- 
ing to  China,  the  Christian  religion,  and  other 
important  matters ; and  the  result  was  very  fa- 
vorable in  many  ways. 

Our  position  became  more  comfortable,  and 
numbers  of  the  citizens  came  daily  to  visit  us. 
As  I was  careful  to  avoid  unnecessarily  infring- 
ing Chinese  rules  of  etiquette,  whenever  guests 
were  announced  I withdrew  to  my  proper  place, 
“ the  inner  apartments.”  Between  the  two 
rooms  was  a lattice  with  only  a paper  covering, 
and  I used  to  avail  myself  of  a slight  aperture 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW.  157 


in  the  screen  to  get  a glimpse  of  the  “ lords  of 
creation,”  as  they  sat  conversing  without.  In 
this  I was  only  conforming  to  a Chinese  cus- 
tom. I have  often  heard  my  husband  and 
other  gentlemen  remark  that,  when  visiting  Chi- 
nese friends,  they  were  frequently  attracted  by 
a slight  rustling  at  the  lattice,  and,  glancing 
towards  it,  would  see  a row  of  bright  black  eyes 
gazing  upon  them  through  holes  punched  in  the 
paper. 

We  were  fortunate  in  having  with  us  a ser- 
vant, who,  from  long  connection  with  ya-muns, 
was  perfectly  accustomed  to  the  required  eti- 
quette in  intercourse  with  officials,  and  indeed 
with  visitors  of  all  sorts.  This  was  Hyiao-fong, — 
a man  who  has  since  given  us  great  anxiety  and 
trouble,  but  who  for  years  was  a most  faithful 
and  attached  servant.  We  can  but  hope  that, 
though  he  has  wandered  far,  and  brought  dis- 
grace upon  his  Christian  profession,  he  will  yet 
be  brought  to  repentance,  and  be  found  among 
Christ’s  own  at  his  appearing. 

I had  not  as  many  female  visitors,  while  living 
within  the  city,  as  at  Loh-o-tah ; still  there  were 
a few  each  day.  On  one  occasion,  hearing  that 
guests  were  awaiting  me  in  the  parlor,  I went 
in  to  see  them,  and,  in  a moment,  to  my  utt'er 


158 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


astonishment,  found  myself  surrounded  by  seven 
or  eight  women,  all  on  their  knees,  going 
through  the  ceremony  of  “ knocking  heads.” 
Not  accustomed  to  being  an  object  of  adoration, 
and,  in  fact,  feeling  somewhat  confused  by  this 
demonstration,  I fear  I was  almost  too  peremp- 
tory in  my  manner,  as  I begged  them  to  rise, 
explaining  that  our  customs  scarcely  allowed 
that  peculiar  mode  of  salutation.  These  women 
were  the  servants  of  an  officer’s  wife,  and  had 
been  sent  by  their  mistress  to  pay  her  respects, 
by  proxy,  to  the  foreign  lady,  with  the  request 
that  I would  return  the  visit,  at  her  residence. 
I fully  intended  to  do  so,  but  was  prevented  by 
causes  which  I could  not  control. 

Besides  Mr.  Culbertson  and  Mr.  Gayley  al- 
ready mentioned,  we  had  at  different  times  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Reuben  Lowrie, 
and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John,  of  Shanghai ; the  former 
spent  a few  hours  with  us  at  the  Loh-o-tah,  the 
latter  at  our  home  in  the  city.  None  of  our 
Ningpo  friends  visited  Hang-chow  while  we 
were  there ; but  we  received  frequent  letters  and 
tokens  of  kind  remembrance. 

One  day,  while  calling  upon  a certain  manda- 
rin, Mr.  Nevius  chanced  to  remark  that  the  fla- 
vor of  the  tea  he  was  drinking  was  peculiarly 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


159 


fine.  No  sooner  were  the  words  uttered  than  the 
officer  replied,  ‘ ‘ I shall  give  m yself  the  pleasure 
of  presenting  you  some.”  And,  sure  enough,  in 
the  course  of  a day  or  two  a box  of  the  same 
sort  was  brought  us,  with  the  officer’s  compli- 
ments. Now  this  seems  a very  trifling  thing; 
but,  in  fact,  it  was  only  the  beginning  of  a rather 
onerous  exchange  of  courtesies.  When  the  offi- 
cer was  calling  in  person  a few  days  later,  he  es- 
pied a common  lithograph,  — which,  by  the  way, 
Mr.  Nevius  had  placed  in  a somewhat  conspicu- 
ous position,  hoping  it  might  take  the  fancy  of 
his  expected  guest,  as  it  did  ; and,  upon  his  ex- 
pressing his  admiration  of  the  picture,  he  was  at 
once  told  that  he  must  accept  it  as  a present. 
It  was  now  his  turn  to  feel  that  he  had  been 
somewhat  too  indiscreet  in  his  praises ; but  he 
took  the  picture,  and  we  would  have  been  glad 
if  that  had  been  the  end  of  it.  But  no ; soon 
after  he  left,  an  inferior  officer  arrived  from  his 
ya-mun,  bringing  with  him  two  coolies,  who 
carried  between  them  a burden  consisting  of  six 
hams,  and  eight  boxes  of  very  choice  tea.  We 
would  gladly  have  declined  the  proffered  gift, 
but  the  messenger  insisted  upon  leaving  it,  say- 
ing that  his  master  would  be  much  offended 
and  very  indignant  should  any  part  of  it  be  re- 


160 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


turned.  In  the  then  state  of  our  affairs,  Mr.  Ne- 
vius  thought  it  best  to  accept  the  civility,  though 
■well  aware  that  one  object  of  such  unbounded 
generosity  was  to  secure  some  valuable  foreign 
article  in  return.  In  accordance  with  the  Chi- 
nese custom,  he  presented  the  messenger  and 
the  coolies  each  a sum  of  money,  and  returned 
with  his  thanks  the  message  that,  “ as  soon  as  he 
could  obtain  it  from  Shanghai,  he  should  present 
the  ta-jen , with  a spy-glass,  as  an  insignificant 
token  of  his  appreciation  of  his  distinguished  re- 
gard.” In  due  time  the  spy-glass  arrived,  and 
was  presented  as  had  been  promised. 

After  the  interchange  of  visits  with  the  offi- 
cers, we  met  with  only  respectful  treatment  from 
all  classes ; and,  from  our  pleasant  experience  in 
Hang-chow,  we  felt  more  than  ever  its  desirable- 
ness as  a missionary  station.  We  were  obliged 
to  go  to  Ningpo  for  a time ; but  before  leaving 
made  arrangements  to  come  back  in  the  course 
of  a few  weeks,  to  take  up  our  abode  perma- 
nently. Our  rooms,  having  no  glass  windows, 
and  being  in  every  way  much  dilapidated,  needed 
many  repairs,  and  Mr.  Wong,  the  owner  of  the 
temple,  willingly  consented  that  we  should  make 
any  alterations  in  our  part  of  the  house  which 
we  thought  necessary.  This  Mr.  Wong  was  a 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


161 


very  singular  character.  Though  a direct  de- 
scendant of  one  of  the  gods  of  our  temple,  he 
was  not  in  any  respect  godlike ; in  fact  he  was 
such  a “Jack  Falstaff”  in  looks  and  character, 
that  we  often  gave  him  that  name  when  speaking 
of  him.  On  his  first  visit  he  assumed  a de- 
cidedly superior  manner,  as  became  a person  of 
such  exalted  lineage  ; but  after  conversing  for  a 
short  time  he  seemed  to  find  the  assumption  of 
such  dignity  too  fatiguing,  and  became  both  more 
natural  and  more  agreeable.  When  we  left  for 
Ningpo  he,  together  with  a crowd  of  two  or 
three  hundred  persons,  came  to  see  us  off. 

Our  journey  back  to  Ningpo  was  not  particu- 
larly eventful.  One  night  I had  a somewhat 
unpleasant  experience.  In  consequence  of  over- 
fatigue I became  very  ill.  When  we  arrived  at 
a place  where  we  were  obliged  to  leave  one  boat, 
and  walk  some  little  distance  to  another,  I was 
quite  unable  to  undertake  the  exertion,  and,  as 
we  could  not  at  that  hour  of  night  procure  a 
chair  and  chair-bearers,  my  kind  husband  took 
me  in  his  strong  arms  and  carried  me  himself. 
When  we  reached  the  other  side,  we  found  the 
canal  so  low  that  the  usual  boats  were  not  there, 
but  had  been  obliged  to  lie  in  deeper  water 
several  miles  distant.  Mr.  Kevins  could  find 
11 


162 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


only  a very  small  and  dirty  boat,  in  the  bottom 
of  which  we  spread  our  mattress,  so  that  I need 
not  be  obliged  to  sit  up,  and  were  soon  again  in 
motion.  Violent  pain,  distressing  nausea,  a 
filthy  boat,  and  a dark,  rainy  night,  are  not  very 
delightful  concomitants,  but  they  are  neverthe- 
less very  good  discipline. 

After  remaining  a week  or  two  in  Ningpo 
Mr.  Nevius  returned  to  Hang-chow  to  begin  re- 
pairs on  our  rooms.  Our  landlord,  supposing, 
from  our  anxiety  to  remain  in  the  city,  that  we 
would  give  almost  any  rent  which  he  chose  to 
demand,  became  very  troublesome,  — so  much  so 
that  Mr.  Nevius  found  rooms  in  another  temple. 
It  was  not  until  he  thought  he  was  in  danger  of 
losing  us  altogether  that  he  became  more  rea- 
sonable, and  consented  to  a written  agreement 
to  lease  us  the  house,  for  a term  of  years,  at  only 
a fair  and  just  compensation.  He  was  also  diffi- 
cult to  please  in  the  contemplated  improvements. 
However,  at  length  carpenters  and  masons  were 
at  work,  and  the  dark,  old  rooms  with  a new 
floor,  whitewashed  walls,  and  glass  windows,  as- 
sumed a more  cheerful  appearance. 

Our  two  native  assistants  had  a comfortable 
house  situated  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  It  was 
rented  from  a gentleman  by  the  name  of  Vi, 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOV. 


163 


who  from  the  first  showed  us  much  kindness. 
He  was  so  much  attached  to  Mr.  Nevius  that  he 
requested  the  privilege  of  becoming  a sort  of 
adopted  brother ; and,  in  order  to  consummate 
the  relationship  according  to  the  Chinese  cus- 
tom, he  wished  us  to  adopt  his  little  daughter. 
Under  the  circumstances  we  hardly  felt  at  lib- 
erty to  decline  the  flattering  offer.  The  rela- 
tion was  merely  nominal,  and  did  not  necessa- 
rily involve  any  very  important  duties  ; as  the 
child  would  remain  for  the  most  part  with  its 
parents.  Our  Chinese  advisers  informed  us 
what  would  be  expected  on  our  part  in  complet- 
ing the  agreement.  The  principal  feature  of 
the  affair  was  an  interchange  of  presents.  I find 
myself  unable  to  remember  of  just  what  these 
consisted,  with  one  exception  : t have  still  a gar- 
ment made  of  some  pretty  silver-gray  silk  which 
Mr.  Vi  gave  me  at  that  time.  The  little  girl 
was  called  in  Chinese  Ts-yuong,  but  her  parents 
desired  that  I should  give  her  a new  or  addition- 
al name,  and  I called  her  Amelia,  or,  as  the  na- 
tives pronounced  it,  Ah-me-le,  after  my  friend 
Mrs.  Reuben  Lowrie,  of  Shanghai.  She  spent 
a good  deal  of  time  at  our  house,  and  I became 
much  interested  in  her.  She  was  bright  and 
engaging,  and  would  have  been  pretty,  except 


164 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


for  a bad  scar  over  her  left  eye,  which  gave 
her  a peculiar,  and  not  very  pleasant,  expression. 
There  was*  however,  a serious  drawback  to  a very 
close  intimacy  between  us,  little  Amelia  having 
when  we  first  knew  her  a contagious  cutaneous 
eruption,  which , though  common  in  China,  is,  to 
say  the  least,  not  agreeable.  She  seemed  fond 
of  me,  and  it  was  remarkable  to  notice  how  nat- 
urally she  adapted  herself  to  her  position  when 
with  us,  not  seeming  to  feel  the  least  dread  of 
the  ‘ ‘ barbarians  ’ ’ she  must  formerly  have  con- 
sidered us. 

Mr.  Vi  had  once  been  wealthy ; but,  in  conse- 
quence of  opium-smoking,  and  idle  and  lux- 
urious habits  which  it  involves,  his  property  was 
gradually  wasting  away.  Of  late,  his  wife  had 
undertaken  the  management  of  their  financial 
concerns,  and  had  given  her  husband  only  a lim- 
ited allowance  to  spend  on  his  opium.  They 
were  both  very  desirous  that  he  should  be  cured 
of  his  bad  habit,  and  for  this  purpose  he  accom- 
panied Mr.  Nevius  to  Ningpo,  and  placed  him- 
self under  the  care  of  the  late  Dr.  Parker,  of  the 
Scotch  Presbyterian  Mission.  A cure  was  ef- 
fected; but  unfortunately,  like  most  of  his  class, 
his  reformation  was  not  permanent,  and  after  a 
short  abstinence  he  returned  to  his  pipe. 


FIRST  VISIT  TO  HANG-CHOW. 


165 


The  subsequent  history  of  this  family  was  as 
sad  as  could  well  be  imagined.  When,  a year 
or  two  later,  the  Tai-ping  rebels  captured  Hang- 
chow, they  took  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Yi  and  their 
children,  together  with  many  others,  prisoners, 
and  drove  them  before  them  for  some  distance. 
Coming  to  a canal,  they  said  to  poor  Mr.  Yi,  as 
if  it  were  something  for  which  he  had  reason  to 
be  very  grateful,  “ We’ll  not  kill  you  ; you  can 
just  jump  into  that  canal.”  It  was  in  vain  he 
plead  for  his  life.  They  forced  him  into  the 
water,  and  each  time  that  he  rose  to  the  sur- 
face, and  attempted  to  regain  the  shore,  stood 
ready  with  drawn  swords  to  beat  him  back,  until 
finally  he  sank  beneath  the  water.  Mrs.  Yi 
they  obliged  to  go  with  them  and  act  as  a servant. 
She  was  employed  in  making  over  articles  of 
clothing  which  they  had  taken  from  others ; and 
when,  as  was  often  the  case,  she  failed  to  please, 
they  beat  her  most  cruelly.  After  a few  weeks 
or  months,  she  and  her  three  little  children 
were  allowed  to  return  to  her  desolate  home. 
At  that  time  we  were  in  another  part  of  the 
country,  and  utterly  unable  to  give  them  assist- 
ance. It  is  years  since  we  have  had  any  tidings 
from  them,  but  I hope  hereafter  to  hear  of  them, 
and  possibly  to  see  them.  None  of  the  Yi  fam- 


166 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


ily  ever  expressed  interest  in  Christianity ; their 
affection  for  us  was  entirely  personal. 

After  Mr.  Nevius  had  succeeded  in  commenc- 
ing the  repairs  on  our  house,  he  arranged  mat- 
ters so  that  they  might  safely  be  left  in  the 
hands  of  the  native  assistants,  and  returned  to 
Ningpo.  It  was  always  pleasant  to  get  back 
there.  We  enjoyed  exceedingly  meeting  our 
missionary  friends,  and  none  the  less  our  native 
Christians.  I have  often  been  asked,  “ Are  the 
Chinese  in  the  least  affectionate  ? ” Could  they 
who  doubt  it  hear  our  Chinese  friends’  cordial 
greetings  when  we  meet  them,  or  witness  their 
tearful  farewells  at  parting,  their  question  would 
be  answered. 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  167 


CHAPTER  VII. 

TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW. 

The  favorable  reception  we  had  met  with  on 
our  first  visit  at  Hang-chow  seemed  sufficient  ev- 
idence of  the  practicability  of  missionary  families 
residing  there  ; and,  when  we  returned  the  second 
time,  it  was  with  the  expectation  of  making  it 
our  home.  For  this  reason  it  was  necessary  to 
carry  with  us  articles  for  house-keeping.  A few 
vessels  were  constantly  going  from  Ningpo  to 
Hang-chow  by  sea,  and,  although  we  were  aware 
that  that  route  was  not  considered  quite  safe,  we 
thought  that,  having  so  much  furniture  to  trans- 
port,  it  was  better  to  attempt  it  than  to  go  by  , 
the  usual  overland  journey,  which  was  always 
fatiguing,  and,  on  account  of  having  so  much 
freight,  would  also  be  very  expensive.  We  left 
Ningpo  on  Monday,  the  twenty -seventh  of  June, 
at  about  eleven  o’clock  in  the  evening,  that 
being  the  hour  when  the  tide  was  favorable. 
Our  boat  was  a rough,  but  strong,  little  craft, 


168 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


■which,  when  our  tables,  chairs,  book-cases,  etc., 
had  been  stowed  away  in  it,  was  somewhat 
crowded.  The  second  evening  we  encountered  a 
fearful  gale,  and,  had  not  our  boatmen  been  well 
acquainted  with  the  locality,  we  might  not  have 
weathered  it.  As  it  was,  we  ran  on,  notwith- 
standing the  storm,  until  we  reached  a safe 
anchorage,  where  we  passed  the  night.  The  next 
forenoon  we  had  sailed  only  a short  distance 
when  we  again  came  to  anchor,  as  the  boatmen 
insisted  upon  waiting  until  the  next  day,  when 
the  higher  tide  would  make  it  safer  to  pass  the 
shoals  which  lay  just  before  us  in  our  course. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Tsin-tang  River  occurs 
the  phenomenon  of  the  bore,  or  tidal  wave,  seen, 
I believe,  in  such  a degree,  in  only  two  or  three 
other  localities.  We  had  heard  accounts  of  it 
from  the  natives,  but  did  not  realize  how  fearful 
it  was  until  we  ourselves  encountered  it.  I can- 
not give  a better  idea  of  this  part  of  our  trip  to 
Hang-chow  than  by  quoting  from  my  husband’s 
journal  of  that  time,  commencing  Wednesday, 
June  twenty-ninth.  “ We  are  now  just  outside 
the  point,  where  the  remarkable  bore,  or  tidal 
wave,  commences  to  form,  and  the  anxiety  of  the 
boatmen  is  excited  to  an  unexpected  degree.  The 
danger  apprehended  is  that  of  striking  on  the 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  169 


shoals  in  the  midst  of  the  rushing  tide,  and 
being  overturned  and  broken  to  pieces.  Our 
boatmen  insisted  upon  remaining  at  this  place 
until  to-morrow,  when  the  tide,  being  a little 
higher,  will  make  the  passage  more  practicable. 
Our  boat  has  been  lying  up  on  the  mud  all  day, 
and,  in  order  to  gain  a better  shelter  from  the 
sun,  we  have  spent  several  hours  in  a temple 
close  by.  In  the  cool  of  the  evening  we  enjoyed 
a delightful  ramble  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  above 
us,  where  we  had  a fine  view  of  the  bay  and  the 
islands  which  intersperse  it.  When  we  returned 
from  our  walk  we  found  the  boatmen  sacrificing 
to  the  deities  of  the  place,  in  order  to  secure  their 
assistance  and  protection  for  our  anticipated  jour- 
ney on  the  morrow.  After  tea  I found  them 
very  interested  auditors,  while  I spoke  to  them  of 
the  folly  of  idolatry,  of  the  power  and  omnipres- 
ence of  Him  who  controls  all  creatures  and 
events,  and  of  salvation  through  the  Redeemer. 

“ Thursday,  June  30th.  — We  were  told  that 
one  tide  would  certainly  sweep  us  from  Ken-p’u 
to  Hang-chow,  hut  here  we  are  laid  up  on  the 
mud  again,  near  the  village  of  Ong-ko-bu, 
about  fifty  1 li  ’ from  our  destination.  This  morn- 
ing the  wind  was  against  us,  and  the  boatmen 
seemed  afraid  either  to  propose  to  detain  us 


1T0 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


another  day,  or  to  proceed  on  our  way.  Though 
they  had  already  engaged  two  additional  men, 
who  professed  to  be  familiar  with  the  passage, 
they  here  hired  another  man  from  the  shore, 
supposed  to  be  a still  safer  pilot.  Not  far  from 
our  last  night’s  anchorage  the  bay  suddenly  con- 
tracts, and  the  tide,  being  rapidly  forced  into  a 
smaller  compass,  rushes  into  the  channel  with 
great  rapidity.  When  it  meets  with  opposing 
winds,  sharp,  angry  waves  are  formed.  The  pas- 
sage is  interesting  and  exciting  in  the  extreme. 
The  water  in  some  places  foams  and  boils  in  a 
furious  manner ; the  helmsman  watches  with 
eagerness  the  motions  of  the  pilot,  who  is  taking 
soundings  with  his  bamboo  pole,  ready  to  give 
the  alarm  of  shoals,  and  point  out  the  way  to 
avoid  them.  This  route  is  only  practicable  at 
spring  tides,  and  then  the  water  on  the  bar  is 
not  much  more  than  ten  feet.  Boats  come  down 
with  the  ebb  without  cargoes,  drawing  generally 
only  two  or  three  feet.  As  we  lost  some  of  the 
tide  while  waiting  outside  one  of  the  shoals  for 
the  water  to  rise,  we  found  we  could  not  reach 
Hang-chow,  and  stopped  at  this  place  about  three 
P.  M.,  because  it  affords  a mooring  for  boats, 
which  is  somewhat  protected  from  the  bore  when 
it  comes  in.  I have  been  on  shore  twice,  and 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  171 


made  some  attempts  to  talk  with  the  people, 
which  were,  however,  very  unsatisfactory,  on 
account  of  the  difference  of  our  dialects. 

“ Friday,  July  1st.  We  have  at  last  reached 
our  destination,  and  find  the  place  still  open  to 
us,  and  everything  in  as  quiet  and  favorable  a 
condition  as  we  could  have  expected.  Last  night 
was  a time  long  to  be  remembered.  We  waited 
for  the  tide  until  past  midnight.  Our  boat, 
which  was  resting  quietly  on  the  beach,  several 
feet  above  low  water,  was  bound  to  its  place  by 
several  cables  on  different  sides,  as  if  in  antici- 
pation of  some  unseen  and  sudden  emergency. 
About  one  o’clock  we  heard  a low  rumbling 
sound  in  the  distance,  growing  louder  and  louder, 
and  giving  sure  notice  of  the  approach  of  the 
tidal  wave.  This  at  spring  tide  comes  in  with  a 
crest  ten  or  twelve  feet  high.  About  ten  min- 
utes intervened  between  our  first  hearing  the 
wave  and  its  appearance.  As  it  came  foaming 
along  the  shore  and  passed  quickly  by  us,  with 
its  deep,  hoarse  sound,  the  scene  was  exceedingly 
grand.  The  water  sprang  up  about  us  as  if  by 
magic,  and  in  an  instant  our  boat  was  afloat.  A 
few  boats  in  whose  company  we  had  expected  to 
start,  being  more  easily  worked,  loosed  from  the 
shore,  and  were  immediately  borne  out  of  sight 


172 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


by  the  rapid  current.  We  were  soon,  however, 
under  way,  and  were  borne  along  with  almost 
railroad  speed.  It  being  nearly  morning,  I went 
below  to  get  a little  sleep.  But  a few  moments 
had  passed  before  the  pilot,  with  the  sounding 
stick,  gave  the  alarm  of  an  unexpected  shoal. 
The  anchor  was  dropped  with  all  despatch,  to 
keep  us  from  drifting  on  it.  [A  peculiar  kind 
of  anchor  is  used  here,  and  the  only  one  that  can 
be  depended  on,  as  any  other,  native  or  foreign, 
will  drag.]  Running  out  on  deck,  I found  that 
our  anchor  was  down  and  our  sails  filled,  the 
wind  being  strong  against  the  tide ; with  both 
these  we  were  barely  able  to  hold  our  position. 
There  was  only  about  a foot  of  water  under  our 
keel.  Our  situation  was  one  of  great  peril.  We 
were  in  danger,  in  case  the  boat  struck,  of  being 
instantly  capsized,  especially  if  it  received  the 
force  of  the  current  on  its  side.  It  was  quite 
dark,  but  the  pilot  knew  the  direction  in  which 
the  channel  was.  To  sail  for  it,  though  the 
wind  was  strong  and  favorable,  was  out  of  the 
question,  as  the  tide  took  us  so  much  faster  than 
the  wind  could.  The  plan  adopted  was  that  of 
raising  the  anchor  a little,  so  as  to  let  it  drag 
slowly,  and  turn  the  helm  so  as  to  throw  the  bow 
over  towards  the  channel.  In  this  way  we  worked 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  173 


gradually  into  deeper  water,  and  were  soon  out 
of  danger.  This  was  a half  hour  of  the  most 
painful  suspense.  Though  I have  encountered 
several  storms  at  sea,  I never  felt  a sense  of  such 
imminent  danger.  The  boatmen  declared  that 
we  were  ‘saved  by  a very,  very  little,’  and  at- 
tributed it  all  to  the  protection  of  Jesus.  They 
had  evidently,  for  the  time,  forgotten  their  idol- 
atrous offering.” 

The  morning  after  our  arrival  our  boatmen 
came  to  see  us.  They  seemed  much  impressed 
by  our  preservation  from  death  the  night  previ- 
ous, and  said  they  were  sure  it  must  have  been 
owing  to  the  protection  of  Him  to  whom  they 
knew  we  had  prayed  for  help.  They  told  us 
that  they  had  learned  that  one  of  the  boats  which 
had  been  in  company  with  us  part  of  the  way 
had  capsized,  and  several  of  those  on  board  had 
been  drowned. 

We  found  the  work  on  our  house  progressing 
very  well,  but,  as  it  was  not  yet  completed,  we 
spent  some  time  in  the  rooms  which  Mr.  Burdon 
had  formerly  occupied  in  a temple  a little  further 
down  the  hill.  As  we  could  bring  only  a limited 
supply  of  food  with  us  from  Ningpo,  and  had  few 
conveniences  for  cooking,  we  were  very  uncom- 
fortably situated  while  living  in  this  place.  We 


174 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


would  not  have  minded  it  so  much,  except  that 
we  both  suffered  in  health  for  the  want  of  some- 
thing wholesome  to  eat.  Chinese  cookery  is  at 
all  times  disagreeable  to  me,  and  more  especially 
when  I am  suffering  from  loss  of  appetite,  as  has 
often  been  the  case  in  China.  Our  kind-hearted 
servants  were  much  distressed  because  they  could 
not  provide  us  more  tempting  food.  Their  anx- 
iety one  morning  exhibited  itself  in  an  amusing 
way.  They  had  only  been  in  our  employ  a short 
time,  so  that  allowance  should  be  made  for  their 
almost  childish  simplicity.  They  were  attempt- 
ing to  bake  some  “ flannel  cakes  ” upon  a grid- 
dle, and,  in  spite  of  all  their  efforts,  the  cakes 
would  adhere  to  the  iron.  u What  shall  we  do? 
Mrs.  N.  must  have  something  to  eat ! ” ex- 
claimed the  cook.  “ Well,”  replied  the  other, 
“ we  are  told  that,  if  we  pray  even  for  trifles,  God 
can  hear  us,  and  maybe,  if  we  ask  him  to  help 
us  about  these  cakes,  he  will  do  so.”  Where- 
upon one  went  off  by  himself  and  proffered  his 
request.  When  the  cakes  were  brought  to  the 
table  they  certainly  were,  for  some  reason  or 
other,  a great  improvement  upon  the  previous 
ones. 

It  has  always  been  our  fortune  to  have  such  ex- 
cellent domestics  that  I can  scarcely  sympathize 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  175 


with  those  whose  experience  has  been  different. 
The  Chinese  accomplish  much  less  work  than  well- 
trained  foreign  servants  ; but,  bj  allowing  them 
to  take  their  own  time,  and  do  things  in  their 
own  way,  we  need  have  but  little  trouble  with 
them.  This  of  course  involves  the  necessity  of 
employing  a greater  number  than  is  quite  con- 
sistent with  our  Western  ideas,  but  I think  it  is 
the  truer  economy  in  the  end ; as  if,  for  the 
sake  of  avoiding  expense,  or  from  preference,  a 
lady  devotes  herself  to  domestic  pursuits,  she 
wrill  of  course  have  but  little  time  or  strength  for 
much  else.  On  the  other  hand,  I have  known 
ladies  who,  with  large  families  of  children,  and 
necessarily  many  domestic  cares,  by  availing 
themselves  of  the  assistance  of  the  natives,  were 
able  to  perform  a wonderful  amount  of  mission- 
ary work,  without  neglect  of  home  duties. 
Such  an  one  was  the  late  Mrs.  Happer,  of 
Canton. 

Before  removing  to  our  rooms  in  the  temple 
on  the  Ts-yiang  hill,  two  official  placards,  warn- 
ing any  one  against  molesting  us,  were  given  us 
by  the  officers,  to  be  posted  on  the  outside  of  our 
door.  We  were  glad  to  have  them,  though  they 
seemed  hardly  needed,  as  the  people  were  so 
kindly  disposed.  We  had  many  visitors,  and  the 


176 


OUR  LIRE  IN  CHINA. 


public  services,  which  had  been  commenced  the 
first  Sabbath  after  reaching  there,  were  attended 
by  as  quiet  and  orderly  an  audience  as  is  usual 
in  older  stations.  Everything  had  thus  far  been 
so  favorable  that  we  felt  much  encouraged,  and 
very  thankful  that  our  steps  had  been  directed  to 
such  a hopeful  and  interesting  field  of  usefulness. 
We  were  consequently  much  surprised  one  even- 
ing, when  we  had  been  there  but  a short  time, 
to  hear  that  Mr.  Wong  (the  “ Jack  Falstaff,” 
before  mentioned)  had  been  summoned  to  appear 
before  the  authorities,  in  consequence  of  his  hav- 
ing rented  his  house  to  foreigners.  He  was 
questioned  as  to  his  connection  with  us,  and 
seems  to  have  been  greatly  alarmed,  and  com- 
pletely cowed.  When  an  official,  in  a thunder- 
ing tone,  said  to  him,  “ Do  you  know  what  de- 
capitation means?”  he  meekly  replied,  “I 
ought  to  die.”  Supposing  that  merely  a hint  of 
such  a nature  would  have  the  desired  effect, 
Wong  was  dismissed,  with  a command  to  request 
us  to  leave  Hang-chow.  But  Wong,  who  was  a 
strange  mixture  of  temerity  and  cowardice,  of 
generosity  and  avarice,  influenced  probably  by  a 
strong  desire  to  receive  the  rent  which  we  paid  for 
our  rooms,  urged  us  to  give  no  attention  to  the 
message  of  the  officers. 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  177 


We  met  with  no  other  interference  for  some 
time  after  this,  but  there  were  strange  rumors 
afloat  all  through  the  city  to  the  effect  that  there 
had  been  a great  battle,  at  the  north  of  China, 
between  the  Chinese  and  foreigners,  in  which  sev- 
eral English  gunboats  had  been  destroyed,  and 
many  lives  lost.  Our  servants  were  constantly 
urged  to  leave  us,  as  our  countries  were  at  war. 
We  did  not  know  what  all  this  meant,  but  felt  so 
sure  that  it  could  not  by  any  possibility  be  a fact 
that  the  Chinese  had  gained  a victory  in  a battle 
with  the  English,  that  we  gave  but  little  atten- 
tion to  the  rumor.  One  afternoon,  about  the 
middle  of  July,  Mr.  Nevius  came  into  my  room 
with  such  a grave  and  anxious  countenance  that 
I knew  he  must  have  received  bad  news.  He 
showed  me  a letter  which  had  just  arrived  from 
Mr.  Rankin,  at  Ningpo,  confirming  the  reports 
which  had  reached  us  from  native  sources.  It 
appeared  from  his  letter,  that  the  French,  Eng- 
lish, and  Americans  had  all  been  engaged  in  the 
attack  upon  the  Ta-ku  forts,  and  had  there  suf- 
fered a disastrous  defeat.  Our  position  was  now 
very  embarrassing.  We  were  willing  to  run 
risks  so  long  as  we  had  the  right  on  our  side,  but, 
if  our  country  had  been  actually  at  war  with 
China,  it  would  have  been  only  folly  to  re- 


178 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


main  where  we  then  were.  After  earnest 
prayer  for  guidance,  to  Him  who  says,  “ Com- 
mit thy  way  unto  me,”  we  decided  that  it  might 
be  better  for  us  to  go  either  to  Shanghai  or 
Ningpo,  at  least  for  a time.  My  husband  the 
same  afternoon  called  upon  the  Che-hien,  but  was 
told  that  he  was  “ not  at  home.”  Not  believing 
this  to  be  true,  Mr.  Nevius  requested  to  be  in- 
formed just  when  he  could  have  an  interview,  as 
his  business  was  important.  Thereupon,  a sub- 
ordinate made  his  appearance,  and,  acting  evi- 
dently for  his  superior,  assured  him  that  though 
we  could  not  be  allowed  to  reside  permanently  in 
Hang-chow,  if  we  desired  to  remain  a few  days 
longer,  we  would  not  be  molested.  We  felt  from 
the  first  that  it  would  be  better  for  us,  not  only 
on  account  of  our  influence,  but  also  for  our 
safety,  not  to  exhibit  timidity.  Accordingly  we 
went  out  to  ride  and  walk,  just  as  usual. 

When  we  returned  from  a stroll,  the  evening 
after  receiving  the  news  mentioned  above,  we 
found  a letter  from  Mr.  Wm.  Martin,  written  at 
Tien-tsin.  He  had  been  a spectator  of  the  at- 
tack upon  the  Ta-ku  forts  by  the  combined  forces 
of  the  English  and  French.  We  were  greatly 
relieved  to  find  from  him  that  our  government 
was  not  involved  in  the  difficulties,  and  that 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  179 


though  the  American  treaty  had  not  yet  been 
ratified,  it  undoubtedly  -would  be  within  a few 
days,  as  the  legation  was  on  the  point  of  leav- 
ing for  Pekin,  where  no  difficulty  was  appre- 
hended. Feeling  that  under  these  circumstan- 
ces there  was  no  such  urgent  necessity  for  our 
immediate  departure,  we  determined  at  least  to 
await  some  further  developments. 

The  following  day,  as  our  family  were  en- 
gaged in  morning  worship,  we  heard  a commo- 
tion in  the  court  below,  and  a priest  belonging 
to  our  temple  came  rushing  in  to  tell  us  that  Mr. 
Wong  had  been  seized  by  five  underlings  from  a 
ya-mun,  and  that  they  were  then  dragging  him 
off  down  the  hill.  Hereupon,  Ilyiao-fong  went 
in  pursuit,  and  in  a short  time  he  returned  in 
triumph,  having  rescued  Wong.  The  five 
“ braves  ” seeing  they  had  been  discovered,  and 
probably  fearing  the  foreigner  himself  might 
make  his  appearance,  or  from  some  other  motive, 
let  go  their  hold  of  Wong,  and  retreated  pre- 
cipitately ya-mun- wards.  On  the  forenoon  of 
this  day,  Mr.  Nevius  addressed  a letter  to  the 
Che-hien,  or  district  magistrate,  informing  him 
of  the  reliable  news  we  had  received  from  Tien- 
tsin, and  expressing  the  hope  that  as  Americans 
we  might  be  allowed  the  privilege  of  remaining 


180 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


in  Hang-chow.  The  same  afternoon  the  supreme 
judge  again  called,  and  we  were  somewhat  en- 
couraged by  his  visit  to  hope  for  a continuance 
of  good  feeling  on  the  part  of  the  officers.  On 
the  morrow,  Mr.  Nevius  received  a very  polite 
and  carefully  worded  letter  from  the  district 
magistrate.  He  still  urged  our  return  to  Ning- 
po  as  necessary  in  the  present  disturbed  state 
of  public  feeling ; and  also  upon  the  ground  that 
by  remaining  we  made  him  liable  to  reprimand 
or  punishment  from  his  superiors.  He  suggested 
that  at  another  time  the  question  of  a permanent 
residence  might  be  taken  under  consideration. 

The  easiest  way  of  solving  our  difficulties 
would  have  been  to  yield  at  once  to  the 
wish  of  the  authorities.  But  there  were  several 
important  reasons  why  we  did  not  do  so.  The 
officers,  by  their  kindly  interchange  of  civilities 
a few  weeks  previous,  had  given  a tacit  consent  to 
our  residence  in  Hang-chow.  Allowing  our- 
selves to  be  driven  away,  when  our  countries 
were  still  on  friendly  terms,  would  have  had  an 
unfavorable  effect  upon  the  people,  and  would 
probably  have  necessitated  the  return  of  the  na- 
tive assistants,  and  the  abandonment  of  our  mis- 
sion. It  was  likely  also  that,  in  case  of  our  ab- 
sence, all  natives  who  had  been  connected  with 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  181 


us,  either  as  teachers,  workmen,  or  merely  friends, 
would  suffer  in  consequence ; when  as  yet,  with 
the  exception  of  our  landlord  Wong,  none  of 
them  had  been  interfered  with.  We  were,  more- 
over, hoping  to  receive  favorable  news  from  the 
north,  which  would  induce  oven  the  officers  to 
be  willing  to  allow  us  to  remain  ; while  yielding 
too  readily  would  embolden  them  to  pursue  a 
like  course  in  any  future  attempts  to  settle 
among  them.  The  heat  of  summer  was  at  that 
time  — the  latter  part  of  July  — intense,  and  to 
have  made  the  journey  across  the  country  would 
have  been  at  great  risk  to  health.  Mr.  Nevius, 
in  reply  to  the  letter  of  the  district  magistrate, 
referred  to  some  of  the  above-mentioned  reasons 
for  our  stay,  and  urged  that  we  might  at  least 
he  permitted  to  wait  until  the  weather  became 
cooler,  but  still  offered  to  leave  immediately  if 
they  insisted  upon  it.  To  this  communication 
no  answer  was  returned,  and,  construing  silence 
into  consent,  we  decided  if  possible  to  remain. 

We  received  letters  from  our  friends  both  at 
Shanghai  and  Ningpo,  fully  approving  of  our 
course,  and  expressing  the  hope  that  we  would 
not  leave  unless  it  should  be  absolutely  necessary 
to  do  so.  Mr.  Wong  was  a second  time  arrested, 
and  confined  in  prison.  One  day  he  was  called 


382 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


before  the  magistrate  and  sentenced  to  be  beaten. 
He  begged  that  the  sentence  might  not  be  execu- 
ted, and  was  graciously  granted  three  days’  re- 
prieve. If,  at  the  end  of  that  time,  we  should 
not  have  left  the  city,  he  was  told  he  need  ex- 
pect no  further  mercy.  We  received  certain 
significant  intimations,  from  various  quarters, 
that  a sum  of  money  would  be  efficacious,  not 
only  in  gaining  Wong’s  release,  but  in  amicably 
arranging  our  other  difficulties.  We  felt,  how- 
ever, that  it  would  be  much  better  to  avoid 
bribery  in  every  way,  and  so  paid  no  heed  to 
these  suggestions.  Zong-foh,  a San-poh  man, 
who  was  with  us  at  that  time,  occupying  a posi- 
tion between  a teacher  and  a servant,  was  of 
much  assistance.  He  used  to  go  almost  daily  to 
visit  Wong  in  prison.  We  were  glad  to  be  as- 
sured that  our  ease-loving  landlord  was  confined 
in  a comfortable  room,  outside  the  common  pris- 
on, and  that,  as  he  had  a sufficient  allowance  of 
good  food,  his  position  was  by  no  means  as  bad 
as  it  might  have  been.  He  never  received  the 
threatened  heating.  I suppose  it  was  promised 
him  with  the  hope  of  intimidating  us,  as  well  as 
of  frightening  him.  Notwithstanding  his  im- 
prisonment, he  still  seemed  desirous  to  have  us 


TEMP0RAR1  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  183 


remain,  and  occasionally  sent  us  messages  to  that 
effect. 

It  soon  became  known  through  the  city,  that 
our  residence  there  was  against  the  wishes  of  the 
officers.  And,  most  unfortunately  for  us,  there 
was  just  then  a remarkable  excitement  all  through 
the  country  with  reference  to  the  coolie  trade. 
This  odious  traffic  had  been  carried  on  to  some 
extent  at  the  open  ports,  and  there  had  no  doubt 
been  some  cases  of  kidnapping.  But  so  greatly 
had  the  truth  been  exaggerated,  that  it  was  be- 
lieved by  many  that  foreigners  were  all  impli- 
cated in  the  outrage.  There  was  a book  printed 
and  distributed  broadcast,  with  the  professed 
object  of  warning  people  against  the  danger  of 
being  captured  and  carried  away  to  a fate  even 
worse  than  slavery.  I cannot  attempt  an  accu- 
rate resume  of  this  most  singular  tract ; but, 
though  I may  not  remember  the  incidents  per- 
fectly, I am  sure  that  I shall  not  in  the  least 
exaggerate  its  absurdity. 

The  story  was  somewhat  as  follows : The 
writer  professed  to  be  a doctor  from  the  prov- 
ince of  Kwang-tong,  who,  with  several  hun- 
dreds of  other  unfortunates,  was  kidnapped  and 
carried  on  board  a vessel  bound  for  a foreign 
land.  Their  sufferings  during  the  voyage  were 


184 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


represented  as  horrible  in  the  extreme,  unallevi- 
ated by  a gleam  of  hope ; for  they  were  all  well 
aware  of  the  fate  awaiting  them.  On  arriving 
at  port  the  captives  were  consigned  to  a kind  of 
prison,  or  pen,  in  which  place  they  were  fed  like 
so  many  animals  fattening  for  slaughter ; and 
each  day  a certain  number  of  those  who  were  in 
the  best  condition  were  led  out  to  execution. 
And  what  was  the  object  of  this  heart-rending 
cruelty  ? It  was  this.  The  bodies  of  all  those 
who  thus  suffered  death  were,  by  some  mysterious 
process,  known  only  to  the  outside  barbarians,  to 
be  manufactured  into  opium  ! From  this  fate 
the  author  of  the  tract  was  saved  in  the  follow- 
ing manner  : A high  officer  of  the  “ outside 
country”  was  taken  violently  ill;  and  his  dis- 
ease baffled  the  skill  of  his  medical  attendants. 
As  he  was  lying  at  the  point  of  death,  the  cap- 
tive physician  said  to  his  jailer,  “ I am  well  ac- 
quainted with  his  Excellency’s  malady ; and  also 
with  its  cure.”  These  words  were  repeated  in 
the  presence  of  the  sick  person,  who  at  once 
commanded  the  physician  to  be  summoned.  He 
was  so  entirely  successful  in  his  treatment  that 
in  a few  days  the  patient  was  perfectly  restored. 
The  doctor  was  cruelly  remanded  back  to  prison, 
and  would  have  soon  been  led  forth  to  share  the 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  185 


fate  of  his  wretched  companions,  had  he  not 
thought  of  a fortunate  expedient.  He  informed 
the  jailer  that,  just  one  year  from  the  time  of  his 
first  attack,  the  officer  would  have  a return  of 
his  illness,  which  in  all  probability  would  prove 
fatal.  As  bad  news  flies  swiftly,  before  night 
this  rumor  had  reached  the  ears  of  the  officer. 
Again  he  summoned  the  physician,  and,  trem- 
bling with  alarm,  demanded  to  know  in  what  way 
he  could  ward  off  the  threatened  danger ; or,  in 
case  of  its  appearance,  what  remedy  he  should 
use  to  save  his  precious  life.  The  doctor  as- 
sured him  that  it  would  not  be  possible  to  avoid 
the  recurrence  of  the  attack  ; and  that  there  was 
but  one  medicine  which  could  prevent  a fatal 
termination,  and  that  one  remedy,  a small  quan- 
tity of  which  he  had  brought  with  him,  from  the 
“Middle  Kingdom,”  had  all  been  consumed  in  the 
first  illness.  “ What  is  the  medicine,  and  where 
can  it  be  procured?”  cried  the  officer,  almost 
palsied  with  fear.  “ It  grows  only  in  one  spot ; 
a mountain  side  in  my  native  place,  near  the 

city  of , in  China,”  answered  the  doctor. 

“Return  at  once  to  the  place  you  speak  of; 
procure  the  remedy  I need,  and  bring  it  hither,” 
commanded  the  officer.  “A  ship  awaits  you; 
delay  not  an  hour.”  It  needed  no  second  order 


186 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


to  induce  the  doctor  to  depart  from  a place 
fraught  with  such  bitter  memories  of  the  past, 
and  such  dismal  anticipations  of  the  future. 
Before  night,  in  a well-appointed  foreign  ship, 
with  an  excellent  commander  and  crew,  he  was 
sailing  towards  the  land  of  his  birth.  He  was 
treated  with  the  greatest  deference,  each  person 
on  the  ship  striving  to  win  his  favor ; and  he 
scarcely  realized  that  he  was  the  same  individual, 
who,  a few  days  before,  had  lain  a hopeless 
prisoner  among  the  opium  captives,  in  the  coun- 
try of  the  “outside  barbarians.”  After  a favor- 
able passage  they  landed  near  the  city  of . 

On  leaving  the  ship  he  assured  the  captain  that 
he  would  only  be  absent  as  long  as  was  necessary 
to  secure  the  required  medicine.  Directing  his 
steps  towards  a range  of  blue  mountains  in  the 
distance,  he  was  soon  out  of  sight  of  the  ship. 
And  once  more  he  was  free.  Oh,  the  bliss  of 
that  moment ! Only  a person  who  like  him  has 
but  just  escaped  from  the  horrible  fate  of  being 
killed,  and  made  into  opium,  and  then  either 
smoked  or  eaten,  can  possibly  imagine  it.  This 
soul-stirring  narrative  of  personal  experiences 
produced  a profound  impression. 

It  was  not  strange  that  people  credulous 
enough  to  believe  such  a ridiculous  fiction  as 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  18T 


this,  should  readily  give  credence  to  others  a 
shade  less  incredible.  It  was  also  reported  and 
believed  that  foreigners  were  impressing  the 
natives  into  their  army  to  fight  against  their  own 
people  at  the  north;  that  having  them  once  in 
their  power,  the  Chinese  were  obliged  to  submit 
to  the  indignity  of  having  their  queues  cut  off, 
and  their  faces  whitened;  after  which  a potion 
was  given  them  by  which  they  were  completely 
deprived  of  the  power  of  speech.  The  origin  of 
this  story  we  never  knew. 

Another  similar  fiction  relating  to  us  became 
current  in  the  city.  Seeming  to  consider  it  im- 
possible that  one  man  alone  should  dare  to  offer 
resistance  to  the  will  of  their  rulers,  many  of  the 
common  people  imagined  that  we  had  a regiment 
of  soldiers  whom  we  were  drilling  on  the  hills 
daily.  When  it  began  to  be  known  that  we  were 
thinking  of  going  to  Shanghai  or  Ningpo,  they 
surmised  that  it  was  only  to  lead  back  a large 
body  of  troops  with  which  to  redress  our  injuries. 

While  such  absurd  and  incongruous  fabrica- 
tions were  being  circulated,  it  was  not  surprising 
that  the  feelings  and  manner  of  the  people 
changed  somewhat  towards  us.  We  met  with 
little  positive  rudeness,  but  sometimes  threaten- 
ing glances,  and  an  expression  of  suspicion  and 


188 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


dislike  made  us  aware  that  it  would  be  unsafe  to 
trust  ourselves  too  fully  within  their  power, 
while  they  remained  in  their  present  excited  and 
revengeful  state.  It  gave  us  peculiar  sensations 
to  find  ourselves  suspected  of  such  monstrous  and 
unnatural  crimes.  But,  in  these  trying  circum- 
stances, our  Chinese  friends  and  servants  behaved 
admirably  ; nothing  could  have  been  better.  They 
fully  identified  themselves  with  us,  and  were  con- 
stantly on  the  watch  to  guard  us  against  possible 
dangers.  We  were  glad  also  to  find  that  the 
silly  stories  I have  mentioned  above  were  not 
by  any  means  credited  by  all,  and  every  day  we 
received  visitors  as  kind  and  sociable  as  ever. 

Our  Sabbath  services  continued  to  be  well  at- 
tended, and  there  were  many  indications  that,  if 
we  could  only  in  any  way  retain  our  position 
until  the  storm  should  blow  over,  our  mission 
would  have  most  encouraging  prospects.  For 
weeks  we  were  daily  expecting  news  of  the  rati- 
fication of  the  American  Treaty.  That  of  the 
Russians,  which  was  already  in  operation,  guar- 
anteed the  right  of  itinerating  through  the 
country,  for  the  purpose  of  preaching  the  gospel, 
hut  not  of  permanent  residence.  From  our  own 
treaty,  notwithstanding  the  “favored  nation” 
clause,  we  could  expect  but  little  help  ; and  as 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  189 


the  two  nations,  England  and  France,  from  whom 
we  had  anticipated  greatly  enlarged  privileges, 
were  then  engaged  in  actual  war,  our  prospects 
for  the  future  were  not  at  all  encouraging.  The 
uncertainty  in  which  we  were  obliged  so  long  to 
remain  was  as  hard  to  bear  as  the  actual  danger 
to  which  we  were  constantly  exposed.  The 
officers,  though  acknowledging  that  our  govern- 
ments were  in  friendly  relations,  assured  us  that, 
as  their  people  could  not  distinguish  us  from  the 
English  or  French,  it  would  not  be  possible  for 
them  to  protect  us  in  case  of  an  attack,  even 
should  they  desire  to  do  so. 

We  were  not  at  all  surprised,  in  the  latter  part 
of  August,  to  receive  from  our  good  friend,  Dr. 
Bradley,  then  United  States  Consul  at  Ningpo, 
a letter  telling  us  he  had  received  a communica- 
tion through  the  Ningpo  tao-tai  from  the  lieuten- 
ant-governor, residing  at  Hang-chow,  informing 
him  that  “a  certain  American  citizen  by  the  name 
of  ‘Nee’  [Nevius]  had  located  himself  within 
his  jurisdiction,  and  refused  to  depart,  though 
repeatedly  requested  to  do  so.”  Together  with 
his  private  letter  to  us  was  a formidable  docu- 
ment addressed  to  the  lieutenant-governor.  In 
it,  while  assuring  him  that  the  Mr.  “Nee”  who 
was  dwelling  in  his  city  was  altogether  an  un- 


190 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


objectionable  character,  he  acknowledged  that  we 
had  at  that  time  no  treaty  right  to  reside  there. 
He  asked  that,  as  a matter  of  friendly  civility 
and  courtesy,  we  should  be  allowed  to  remain 
until  the  hot  weather  should  be  so  moderated,  as 
to  make  our  return  less  dangerous.  Dr.  Brad- 
ley strongly  advised  us,  in  case  there  were  not 
a friendly  response  from  the  lieutenant-governor 
in  answer  to  his  communication,  to  leave  at  once. 
"VVe  waited  several  days  after  this  in  the  hope  of 
the  desired  reply,  but,  as  none  was  received,  we 
felt  constrained  to  yield  to  Dr.  Bradley's  request. 
By  this  time  the  “coolie  excitement”  had 
greatly  abated,  and  the  war  at  the  north  received 
much  less  attention.  Confidence  in  us  was 
gradually  returning,  and  in  these  respects  there 
seemed  no  necessity  whatever  for  our  leaving. 
On  our  last  Sabbath  we  had  the  most  interesting 
service  of  any  while  in  Hang-chow.  It  was  held 
in  our  Chinese  reception-room.  There  were 
present  at  least  fifty  very  respectable  men,  and 
a number  of  women  who  sat  with  me  in  an  ad- 
joining room,  where  we  could  hear  without  being 
seen.  All  listened  with  most  respectful  atten- 
tion, and  seemed  affected  by  the  truths  presented. 
We  had  at  this  time  numerous  visitors,  to  whom 
we  were  careful  to  explain  not  only  the  truths  of 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  191 

Christianity,  but  very  particularly,  our  object  in 
going  to  Hang-chow,  and  our  reasons  for  leaving 
there.  We  were  certain  that  by  many  this  was 
perfectly  understood,  and  that,  as  they  would 
be  sure  to  impart  their  knowledge  to  others, 
there  was  much  less  danger  of  our  leaving  a 
wrong  impression  than  if  we  had  left  when  first 
requested  to  do  so. 

We  had,  moreover,  the  satisfaction  of  feeling 
that  our  stay  in  Hang-chow  had  not  been  without 
the  results  most  dear  to  a missionary’s  heart,  — ac- 
tual conversions.  Several  persons  we  thought 
gave  evidence  of  true  faith  in  Jesus.  One  of 
these  was  a woman  by  the  name  of  Su.  She 
came  first  to  see  me  when  we  were  occupying 
rooms  in  the  temple  lower  down  the  hill.  Her 
husband  was  a tailor,  in  easy  circumstances.  1 
felt  from  the  first  much  attracted  to  her,  she  was 
so  gentle  and  affectionate,  and  withal  so  inquir- 
ing. It  seemed  as  if  she  had  for  years  been 
longing  for  just  such  a religion  as  that  of  Jesus ; 
having  been  altogether  unsatisfied  with  their  own 
false  systems.  She  felt  herself  sinful  and  un- 
deserving; and  unspeakably  precious  to  her  was 
the  offer  of  a Saviour.  I think  she  loved  the 
Lord  Jesus,  almost  as  soon  as  she  heard  of  him; 
and  a new  world  of  light  and  beauty  opened  be- 


192 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


fore  her.  She  came  to  me  frequently  with  won- 
dering questions,  some  of  which  I could  not 
satisfy.  It  seemed  strange  to  her  that  Christians, 
having  a knowledge  of  the  way  of  salvation 
through  Christ,  could  so  long  have  failed  to  give 
that  knowledge  to  others.  I can  never  forget 
my  last  interview  with  her.  Overcome  with 
fatigue  from  preparations  for  our  journey,  I was 
lying  down  to  rest,  and  she  came  in  and  sat 
beside  me.  She  was  very  sad,  and  aside  from 
regret  at  our  going,  evidently  was  depressed  in 
mind  from  some  other  cause.  Presently  she  said, 
“Nee  S-meo  [Mrs.  Nevius],  I wish  to  ask  you 
two  questions  before  you  go  : Do  tell  me,  when 
I get  to  heaven,  will  I meet  my  ancestors  there, 
and  my  dear  little  children  who  died  years  ago  ? ” 
She  added,  “ You  know  my  ancestors  never  heard 
of  Jesus,  and  so  they  could  not  believe  in  him; 
but  will  he  not  save  them,  notwithstanding?” 
I was  much  distressed,  and  for  a moment  could 
not  reply.  But  then  I told  her  that  we  must 
leave  such  matters  as  we  could  not  understand 
entirely  with  God ; that,  since  he  had  so  loved  us 
as  to  give  his  dear  Son  to  die  for  us,  we  must 
never  on  any  account  doubt  his  love,  nor  his 
justice,  nor  his  goodness.  I told  her  that  I 
would  rather  not  try  to  answer  her  first  question ; 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  193 


but  would  gladly  tell  her  the  Christian  belief 
about  the  blessedness  of  little  children  who  have 
died,  either  in  Christian  or  in  heathen  lands.  I 
assured  her  that  I had  not  a doubt  that,  if 
she  through  grace  should  reach  the  home  of  the 
blessed,  she  would  find  her  lost  darlings  await- 
ing her.  An  expression  of  great  sweetness  illu- 
mined her  countenance.  I love  to  think  of  her 
as  she  appeared  at  that  'time.  It  seemed  as  if 
she  was  then  experiencing  some  of  the  happy 
effects  of  that  faith  which  is  the  evidence  of 
things  not  seen.  I felt  a strong  hope  that  she 
had  given  herself  to  Him  who  was  able  to  keep 
that  which  she  had  committed  to  Him,  until  that 
day ; and  that,  if  we  should  never  meet  again  on 
earth,  we  might  hope  to  meet  hereafter.  She 
continued  to  attend  services  at  the  house  of  our 
native  assistants  until  they  left  the  city,  after 
which  time,  for  a long  while,  we  completely  lost 
sight  of  her.  When  the  rebels  captured  the  city, 
she  and  her  family  effected  their  escape. 

A few  years  since,  when  some  of  our  native 
preachers  or  colporteurs  were  visiting  a village 
in  the  district  of  Ningpo,  though  not  very  near 
the  city,  they  were  told  that  there  was  a woman 
in  the  place  who  did  not  worship  idols,  and  who 
believed  the  same  kind  of  doctrine  as  that  they 
13 


194 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


preached;  and  that  she  taught  her  children  to 
kneel  down  and  pray  to  an  unseen  God.  The 
natives  were  much  interested  in  this  account, 
and  went  at  once  to  visit  the  woman.  They 
found  to  their  surprise  and  pleasure  that  she  was 
this  same  Mrs.  Su,  my  Hang-chow  friend.  From 
the  time  of  our  assistants  leaving  Hang-chow, 
she  had  never  met  a foreigner,  or  received  any 
religious  instruction  whatever.  But  through  all 
these  dreary  years  passed  among  those  who  knew 
nothing  of  Christianity,  and  who  practised  only 
idolatry,  she  had  kept  the  faith,  and  was  still 
“ clinging  to  Jesus.”  Of  course,  there  was  much 
darkness  and  ignorance  to  be  removed,  but  not 
long  after  she  was  thus  accidentally  discovered, 
she  received  baptism,  and  became  a member  of 
one  of  the  Ningpo  churches.  I think  she  is 
highly  respected  as  a consistent,  devoted  Chris- 
tian ; and,  if  I am  not  mistaken,  she  is  now  giving 
much  assistance  in  instructing  the  women  in  her 
neighborhood  in  the  truths  of  the  gospel.  The 
“bread  cast  upon  the  waters,”  during  those  try- 
ing months  spent  in  Hang-chow,  was  “found 
again  after  many  days.” 

At  least  one  other  person  dates  his  conversion 
to  instruction  received  at  the  same  time. 

Our  experience  in  Hang-chow  confirmed  us  in 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  195 


the  impression  we  had  previously  formed  of  its 
comparative  healthfulness.  We  felt  the  heat  less 
sensibly  than  during  any  previous  summer  spent 
in  China. 

Our  house,  after  it  was  repaired,  was  both 
comfortable  and  pleasant,  although  somewhat  too 
small.  On  the  side  overlooking  the  city  and 
facing  the  Tsin-tang  River,  were  our  parlor,  bed- 
room, and  guest-room.  These  three  had  board 
floors,  glass  windows,  and  whitewashed  walls. 
Although  the  house  had  but  one  story,  owing  to 
its  situation  upon  the  top  of  the  hill,  it  was  not 
at  all  damp.  The  back  rooms  were  left  much  as 
we  found  them,  with  only  a brick  floor  and  paper 
windows.  In  these  we  had  a Chinese  reception- 
room,  a dining-room,  and  kitchen,  and  one  or  two 
small  apartments  used  by  the  servants. 

In  preparing  to  return  to  Ningpo,  we  decided 
to  leave  all  heavy  articles  of  furniture,  both  be- 
cause it  would  be  difficult  to  transport  them 
across  the  country,  and  in  order  that  they  might 
be  there  ready  for  use  whenever  we  should  be 
permitted  to  come  back. 

When  the  day  was  fixed  for  our  departure,  Mr. 
Nevius  sent  his  card  to  the  officers,  informing 
them  of  his  intention,  and  received  theirs  in  re- 
turn. Thus,  notwithstanding  the  peculiar  rela- 


196 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


tions  we  had  sustained  towards  the  officials,  we 
parted,  at  least  nominally,  friends.  On  the  day 
we  left,  a large  number  of  people  had  collected 
to  see  us  off.  Many  expressed  earnest  desires 
that  we  should  speedily  return,  and  seemed  really 
to  regret  our  going.  We  left  our  rooms  in  charge 
of  a native  ; the  two  assistants  remained  in  their 
own  hired  house,  and  everything  was  so  kindly 
ordered  that  we  could  scarcely  realize  that  we 
had  been  driven  away.  Yet  so  it  was  ; and  our 
dream  of  life  and  work  in  Hang-chow  was  over. 

But  being  obliged  to  leave  just  when  we  did, 
though  it  seemed  to  us  so  unfortunate,  was  really 
a very  marked  and  kind  providence,  for  it  was 
not  long  after  this  that  the  Tai-ping  insur- 
gents captured  the  city,  at  which  time  there  oc- 
curred scenes  of  such  atrocity  and  cruelty  as  I 
am  sure  I never  could  have  endured  to  witness. 
It  was  then  that  our  friend,  Mr.  Vi,  was  put  to 
death  as  I have  before  mentioned.  Nearly  all 
our  acquaintances  either  fled  from  the  city,  or 
were  killed  or  captured.  The  accounts  we  re- 
ceived, from  fugitives  who  had  made  their  escape, 
were  fearful.  It  is  thought  that  not  far  from 
twenty  thousand  persons  were  massacred.  Dead 
bodies  were  lying  on  every  side  in  the  streets  or 
in  the  houses.  Those  who  succeeded  in  making 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  197 


their  escape,  and  reaching  some  place  of  safety 
with  their  lives  only,  considered  themselves 
fortunate. 

The  temple,  of  which  our  rooms  were  a wing, 
was  burned  to  the  ground ; while,  strange  to  say, 
our  part  remained  uninjured.  A native,  who 
visited  it,  brought  us  word  that  it  was  occupied 
by  the  rebel  commander,  as  his  head-quarters, 
and  that  the  troops  were  making  themselves  very 
much  at  home  with  everything  we  had  left  be- 
hind us.  He  said  our  dining-table  was  in  a sad 
state,  having  been  used  for  chopping  meat  upon 
for  his  Excellency’s  dinners.  Other  articles  of 
furniture  were  also  either  entirely  missing  or 
much  defaced.  We  had  left  one  or  two  large 
boxes  of  Christian  books  in  the  Chinese  character, 
and  were  not  sorry  to  hear  that  they  had  been 
opened  and  scattered,  as  there  was  a possibility 
that  they  might  thus  do  some  good. 

We  were  grieved  to  learn  that  the  kindly  dis- 
posed military  officer,  whom  I mentioned  as  call- 
ing upon  my  husband  during  our  first  visit,  while 
we  were  staying  at  the  Loh-o-tah,  met  his  death 
soon  after  the  rebels  attacked  the  city.  He  was 
killed  as  he  was  leading  a company  of  soldiers 
out  through  a gate  to  meet  the  enemy.  I sup- 
pose he  was  a brave,  good  officer,  as  well  as  a 


198 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


very  agreeable  and  intelligent  gentleman.  The 
rebels  retained  the  city  only  a few  days,  when  it 
was  recaptured  by  the  Imperialists. 

The  commanding  position  of  our  house  led  to 
its  being  again  chosen  as  the  residence  of  a mili- 
tary officer.  We  heard  occasionally  of  it,  from 
persons  coming  from  Hang-chow,  though  for  a 
long  while,  owing  to  the  greatly  disturbed  state 
of  the  country,  communication  was  very  infre- 
quent. At  length,  news  reached  us  that  our  old 
home  was  in  ruins,  having  been  burned  to  the 
ground, —whether  by  accident  or  intention,  we 
had  no  means  of  ascertaining.  Our  losses  of  furni- 
ture and  various  articles  left  in  the  house  were 
considerable,  but  that  we  regarded  a trifling 
matter  compared  with  our  great  disappointment 
in  being  obliged  to  relinquish  a station  of  so 
great  importance,  to  which  we  had  been  led  by 
such  unmistakable  providences.  Still,  in  looking 
back  to  that  period,  I feel  that  we  had  abundant 
cause  for  gratitude.  From  our  perilous  journey 
up  the  Hang-chow  Bay,  all  through  those  days 
and  nights  of  uncertainty  and  danger,  we  felt 
conscious  that  our  heavenly  Father  was  watch- 
ing over  and  protecting  us,  and  it  was  by  no 
means  an  unhappy  season.  On  the  contrary,  we 
experienced  truest  pleasure  in  the  privilege  of 


TEMPORARY  SOJOURN  AT  HANG-CHOW.  199 


enduring  some  little  “ hardness  ” in  our  Master’s 
service. 

I am  thankful  that,  after  an  interval  of  six  or 
seven  years,  missionary  work  has  been  resumed 
in  Hang-chow,  and  representatives  of  our  own 
church,  and  of  the  Church  of  England,  and  sev- 
eral other  societies,  are  now  residing  there.  I 
hope  it  will  prove  a most  successful  station,  and 
a pleasant  place  of  residence. 


200 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  yin. 

MISSIONARY  LIFE  AND  OCCUPATIONS. — VIEWS 
OF  CHINESE  CHARACTER.  — ARRIVAL  OF  MIS- 
SIONARIES. — REMOVALS  BY  DEATH. 

On  our  return  to  Ningpo  at  the  end  of  August, 
1859,  we  were  sadly  impressed  by  the  too  evi- 
dent effects  of  a Ningpo  summer  upon  our  for- 
eign friends  there.  With  few  exceptions  they 
were  thin  and  pale,  and  went  about  their  neces- 
sary duties,  with  a weary  air  which  it  pained  us 
to  see.  The  season  had  been  sickly,  and  there  had 
been  some  cases  of  illness  and  death  from  cholera. 
Among  those  who  fell  victims  to  that  disease 
were  Mrs.  Parker  of  the  Scotch  Presbyterian  Mis- 
sion, and  two  “ sisters  of  charity,”  connected  Avith 
the  large  Romanist  establishment  within  the  city. 

I have  sometimes  regretted  that  there  is  so 
little  intercourse  between  the  missionaries  of  the 
Romish  church  and  ourselves.  We  used  often 
to  meet  the  sisters  with  their  black  dresses  and 
large  white  bonnets,  as  they  glided  quietly 


ROMISH  MISSIONARIES. 


201 


through  streets  and  by-ways,  intent  on  errands 
of  duty  and  mercy,  and  I could  but  honor  their 
self-sacrificing  spirit,  and  hope  that  the  saving 
truths  of  the  gospel  which  they  labored  so  ear- 
nestly to  communicate  to  others  had  indeed  been 
received  by  faith  into  their  own  hearts.  Still 
we  knew  that  there  was  much  error  mixed  with 
their  instructions  to  the  heathen.  There  are 
great  numbers  of  Roman  Catholics  in  China; 
many  more  than  all  Protestant  Christians  com- 
bined. This  is  not  strange  when  we  bear  in 
mind  that  it  is  now  several  centuries  since 
they  began  there  the  propagation  of  their  faith; 
and  that  in  all  these  years  their-  missionaries 
have  been  numerous,  with  abundant  sources  of 
wealth  at  their  command. 

Some  of  the  early  J esuits  were  men  of  great 
learning,  and  perhaps  also  of  sincere  piety.  Of 
one  of  these,  Matteo  Ricci,  it  is  said,  “He  not 
only  made  himself  so  thoroughly  conversant 
with  their  language  as  even  to  gain  the  applause 
of  native  literati,  but  he  studied  also  their  char- 
acter, their  sciences,  their  history,  and  their  cer- 
emonials. With  this  view  he  lived  for  seven 
years  among  the  bonzes,  adopted  their  dress,  fell 
in  with  their  manners,  and  humored  their  prej- 
udices. To  the  Chinese  he  became  a Chinese, 


202 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


that  he  might  win  them  over  to  his  cause.”  It 
is  further  stated  that  “ he  first  attracted  the  at- 
tention of  the  learned  by  drawing  a map  of  the 
world,  on  which,  according  to  Chinese  usage, 
China  was  placed  in  the  centre,  and  the  countries 
of  Europe  on  the  margin,”  — hardly  a truthful 
representation  by  the  holy  father,  one  would 
think.  After  these  glimpses  into  his  character 
and  life,  we  are  obliged  to  credit  the  charges 
laid  against  him  by  the  Dominicans,  that  “ he 
W’as  too  tolerant  of  Chinese  prejudices,  and  sac- 
rificed Christian  purity  to  expediency.”  Be 
this  as  it  may,  he  was  wonderfully  successful ; 
and,  at  the  time  of  his  death,  had  made  many 
converts ; not  only  among  the  poor  and  un- 
learned, but  also  from  the  highest  ranks  of  soci- 
ety, and  in  every  province  of  the  empire. 

The  fortunes  of  Romanism  have  been  very 
fluctuating ; at  one  time  it  has  bid  fair  to  become 
the  prevailing  religion  of  the  empire,  and  then 
again  has  been  well-nigh  crushed  out  by  storms 
of  persecution  and  trial.  In  the  severe  ordeals 
to  which  the  Romanists,  both  native  and  foreign, 
have  been  subjected,  many  of  the  latter  have 
suffered  martyrdom;  and  of  the  former,  not  a 
few,  imitating  the  faith  and  steadfastness  of  their 
instructors,  have  submitted  either  to  death  or 


ROMISH  MISSIONARIES. 


203 


exile.  As  we  read  of  the  zeal  and  heroic  forti- 
tude of  those  early  martyrs,  we  can  but  feel 
the  deepest  regret  that  they  had  not  suffered  for 
a purer  faith  and  a better  cause. 

It  is  said  that  the  Romish  missionaries  of  the 
present  day  are  not  by  any  means  the  equals 
of  their  predecessors.  They  have  but  a limited 
knowledge  of  the  language,  and  attempt  the 
composition  of  few  new  books  either  of  religion 
or  science.  I do  not  think  I am  mistaken  in 
my  impression  that,  notwithstanding  the  limited 
number  of  Protestant  missionaries,  and  the 
short  time,  comparatively,  during  which  they 
have  been  in  China,  their  position  and  influence 
in  the  eyes  of  the  Chinese  are  much  superior  to 
that  of  the  Romanists.  I often  wonder  that  we 
do  not  hear  more  of  them. 

The  way  in  which  they  make  their  converts 
accounts  for  their  almost  incredible  number. 
Believing  that  baptism,  when  administered  by 
themselves,  is  a saving  ordinance,  they  resort  to 
strange  expedients  in  order  to  secure  subjects 
for  it.  I have  been  told  that  the  “ sisters  ” at 
Ningpo  sometimes  go  to  the  villages  in  that 
neighborhood,  and,  when  a crowd  of  women  and 
children,  such  as  a foreign  lady  is  sure  to  at- 
tract, comes  about  them,  they  seize  a favorable 


204 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


moment,  and  sprinkle  as  many  of  the  babies  as 
come  within  their  reach;  thus  gaining  “con- 
verts ” without  number.  All  such  baptized 
children,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  their  par- 
ents are  heathens,  are  counted  among  the  num- 
ber of  their  proselytes.  The  transition  from 
Buddhism  to  Romanism  is  so  easy,  that,  instead 
of  wondering  at  its  rapid  spread,  I think  it  is 
surprising  that  it  has  not  been  more  popular. 

There  is  an  impression  current,  that  the  Ro- 
mish missionaries  invariably  conform  to  the  cus- 
toms of  the  natives,  both  in  dress,  and  style  of 
living;  thus  gaining  much  in  influence  over 
them.  But  this  certainly  is  not  always  the 
case.  A French  priest,  with  whom  my  husband 
became  acquainted,  assured  him  that,  at  least  in 
his  mission,  they  lived  as  nearly  as  possible  as 
they  had  been  accustomed  to  in  their  native  land ; 
having  the  same  kinds  of  food,  light  foreign 
wines  at  table,  etc.  I believe  the  Romish  priests 
always  adopt  the  native  costume  ; but,  aside  from 
its  convenience,  I doubt  if  they  gain  much  even 
by  that.  If  Ricci’s  policy  of  “adopting  their 
dress,  falling  in  with  their  manners,  and  hu- 
moring their  prejudices;  in  fine,  becoming  Chi- 
nese, in  order  that  we  might  win  them  over  to 
the  cause,”  were  correct,  then,  indeed,  there 


MISSIONARY  COSTUME. 


205 


would  be  a good  reason  for  laying  aside  our  na- 
tionality or  individuality.  Such  means  of  gain- 
ing an  influence  are  suited  to  the  genius  and 
spirit  of  Popery,  but  not  to  that  of  Protestant- 
ism, which,  having  nothing  to  fear  from  light  and 
investigation,  has  no  need  to  appear  to  be  what 
it  is  not ; nor  to  make  use  of  doubtful  arts  and 
subterfuges,  in  order  to  increase  the  number  of 
its  proselytes. 

Some  few  Protestant  missionaries  have  also 
adopted  the  Chinese  costume,  and  conformed,  in 
a measure,  to  the  native  style  of  living ; but  this 
course  is  not  generally  approved  of.  It  may 
have  certain  advantages  of  which  I am  not 
aware,  but  they  would  have  to  be  very  great 
to  compensate  for  what  is  lost  by  giving  up  our 
own  habits  and  customs,  and  a part  at  least  of 
that  respect  and  influence  which  belong  to  us 
simply  as  foreigners. 

The  adoption  of  the  pretty  native  costume  is 
too  trifling  a matter  to  he  considered  in  the  light 
of  a sacrifice.  I have  worn  it  at  times,  and 
doubtless  may  occasionally  do  so  in  the  future. 
In  visiting  freely  among  all  classes,  not  only  at 
the  open  ports,  but  in  the  interior  villages  and 
cities,  I never  experienced  serious  inconvenience 
in  consequence  of  my  foreign  dress.  When  I 


206 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


wore  the  Chinese  dress,  however,  I was  in  one 
instance  not  a little  annoyed.  My  husband  and 
myself  were  accompanied  by  a native  preacher, 
and,  as  we  passed  from  village  to  village,  we 
were  followed  by  shouts  of  boys  and  men.  ‘ ‘ Here 
comes  a red-haired  man,  with  a native  and  his 
wife  ! ” 

The  expense  of  the  Chinese  costume  and  mode 
of  living  I presume  is  considerably  less  than 
that  of  ours  ; which  may  render  their  adoption, 
in  certain  cases,  necessary ; but,  as  a general 
thing,  even  the  limited  salary  of  an  American 
missionary  is  enough  to  allow  of  his  living  in  a 
sufficiently  respectable  way,  in  foreign  style  ; and 
with  not  only  the  bare  necessaries  of  life,  but 
also  some  of  its  luxuries ; for  instance,  a pretty 
well-filled  library,  a few  pictures  adorning  the 
walls,  and  an  occasional  exotic,  such  as  an  easy- 
chair,  or  an  etagere,  with  many  a souvenir  of  the 
dear  home  and  friends  far  away.  And  these 
things,  while  they  might  be  considered  by  some 
as  superfluous,  or  even  as  sinful  indulgences, 
are  not  without  important  uses  in  the  prosecu- 
tion of  our  work.  I do  not  know  what  I should 
have  done,  had  I been  without  my  good  melode- 
on,  a stereoscope  and  pictures,  daguerreotypes, 
photographs,  and  the  like,  to  assist  in  entertain- 


MISSIONARY  LIFE  AND  OCCUPATIONS.  207 


ing  the  many  visitors,  ■who  have,  from  time  to 
time,  come  to  see  us.  Especially  with  Chinese 
women,  whose  minds  are  so  utterly  untrained, 
and  who  are  so  deplorably  ignorant,  of  not  only 
books,  but  everything  else,  are  these  helps  very 
desirable,  if  we  would  gain  an  influence  over, 
and  interest,  them. 

As  for  the  motive  of  economy,  I am  perhaps 
not  sufficiently  affected  by  it ; nor  have  I much 
sympathy  with  self-imposed  austerities,  whether 
in  the  Romish  or  the  Protestant  church.  But 
lest  anything  I have  said  might  give  the  idea 
that  missionaries  live  luxuriously,  and  are  in  the 
reception  of  larger  salaries  than  they  actually 
receive  and  need,  I will  just  mention  that  a good 
book-keeper  in  a foreign  mercantile  establish- 
ment, though  a young  man,  with  a limited  edu- 
cation, and  no  knowledge  of  the  Chinese  lan- 
guage, is  able  to  command  two  or  three  times 
as  large  a salary  as  that  of  a missionary.  And 
that  is  not  considered  too  much  to  meet  the  ex- 
penses of  living,  and  to  compensate  for  the  risks 
run  in  a foreign  and  often  unhealthy  climate. 
But  then,  the  missionary  does  not  expect  nor 
desire  to  be  paid  for  his  services ; at  least  not 
with  money.  He  receives,  in  the  consciousness 
that  he  is  living  a life  of  obedience  to  the  ex- 


208 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


pressed  will  of  Christ,  together  with  the  pure 
happiness  which  flows  from  efforts  to  benefit 
others,  a recompense  all-sufficient,  even  in  this 
world,  while  he  hopes  to  meet  hereafter  the  most 
blessed  of  all  rewards,  in  those  words  of  our 
Saviour,  “Well  done,  thou  good  and  faithful 
servant;  enter  thou  into  the  joy  of  thy  Lord;  ” 
and  is  it  not  written,  “Verily  I say  unto  you, 
There  is  no  man  that  hath  left  house,  or  breth- 
ren, or  sisters,  or  father,  or  mother,  or  wife,  or 
children,  or  lands,  for  my  sake,  and  the  gospel’s, 
but  he  shall  receive  an  hundred-fold  now  in  this 
time,  houses,  and  brethren,  and  sisters,  and 
mothers,  and  children,  and  lands,  with  persecu- 
tions, and  in  the  world  to  come,  eternal  life  ” ? 

Well,  then,  may  Christ’s  servants,  both  at 
home  and  abroad,  who  have  from  love  to  him 
given  up  even  the  wish  to  accumulate  much  of 
this  world’s  goods,  rest  content.  Treasures  laid 
up  above  are  better  far  than  any  others. 

But  to  return  from  this  long  digression  into 
which  I have  been  led,  I scarcely  know  how. 
As,  in  consequence  of  our  household  effects  hav- 
ing so  many  of  them  been  left  at  Hang-chow,  we 
were  not  able  at  once  to  resume  house-keeping, 
our  ever  kind  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Rankin, 
offered  us  a home  with  them,  and  the  next  few 


MISSIONARY  LIFE  AND  OCCUPATIONS.  209 


months  were  spent  at  their  house.  Mr.  Nevius 
resumed  charge  of  the  boys’  school,  and  also  the 
church,  of  which  he  had  for  some  years  been 
pastor.  In  his  temporary  absences  his  place  had 
been  supplied  by  other  members  of  the  mission. 

In  all  that  I have  thus  far  written,  I know 
that  I have  been  able  to  give  only  a very  imper- 
fect view  of  the  multiplied  duties  and  employ- 
ments of  missionaries  generally.  Except  when 
they  go  away  from  their  stations  for  the  express 
purpose  of  recreation  and  rest,  their  work  is 
never  done.  Their  evenings  are  apt  to  be  occu- 
pied either  with  services,  teaching  Bible  classes, 
conversing  with  inquirers  or  visitors,  or  in  no 
less  exhausting  labors  in  their  studies.  There 
are  exceptions  to  this ; some  persons  feel  that,  in 
the  end,  they  accomplish  more  by  devoting  fewer 
hours  to  work,  and  giving  up  every  evening  to 
rest  and  relaxation  ; and  perhaps  they  are  wise 
in  doing  so.  But  there  are  so  few  variations  and 
diversions  in  those  out-of-the-world  places,  where 
much  of  our  life  has  been  spent,  that  it  is  really 
easier  to  plod  on  from  morning  to  night,  and 
from  one  day  to  another,  in  either  study  or  work 
of  various  kinds,  than  to  “throw  care  to  the 
winds,”  and  take  the  mental  and  physical  rest 
which  would  in  reality  be  best  for  us. 

14 


210 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Aside  from  the  ordinary  routine  of  preaching, 
studying,  book-making,  and  so  forth,  missionaries 
have  frequent  demands  upon  their  time  and  en- 
ergies of  a different  character.  In  most  of  the 
open  ports,  the  United  States  Consulates  have 
heretofore  been  without  interpreters,  and  the  con- 
suls, having  no  knowledge  of  Chinese,  have  been 
obliged  to  ask  assistance  from  their  clerical 
friends  in  transacting  official  business.  In  sev- 
eral instances  missionaries  have  accepted  the 
office  of  consul,  for  a longer  or  shorter  time, 
though  they  generally  regret  being  obliged  to 
step  aside  from  their  more  important  work  of 
preaching  the  gospel.  Their  services,  too,  are 
often  required  to  sit  as  jurors  in  consular  courts. 

In  those  stations  where  there  are  large  mission- 
ary communities,  there  are  occasional  social 
gatherings,  which  are  often  truly  delightful.  In 
Ningpo  there  has  been  for  years,  in  fact,  since  it 
was  first  occupied  by  foreigners,  a “Missionary 
Association,”  which  meets  with  different  families 
in  rotation,  and  is  attended  by  all  the  resident  mis- 
sionaries, and  not  unfrequently  by  a few  others. 
It  combines  the  two  objects  of  a “ debating  club  ” 
and  a “ sociable.”  The  subject  for  discussion  is 
chosen  at  a previous  meeting,  and  one  person 
sometimes  has  a written  essay  upon  it,  with  the 


MISSIONARY  LIFE  AND  OCCUPATIONS.  211 


reading  of  which  the  evening  is  opened.  Or,  in 
case  there  has  been  no  written  paper,  the  appoint- 
ed person  opens  the  discussion  with  an  extem- 
pore speech,  and  is  usually  followed  by  the  other 
gentlemen  present.  The  influence  of  this  ‘ ‘ Asso- 
ciation” has  been  very  great.  Many  important 
questions  connected  with  our  peculiar  work  as 
missionaries  have  been  brought  forward  for  con- 
sideration, in  such  a way  as  to  elicit  a free  inter- 
change of  opinion ; conflicting  views  and  prac- 
tices have  been  either  modified  or  changed,  and 
an  effect,  both  salutary  and  strong,  has  evidently 
proceeded  from  it.  The  ladies  accompany  their 
husbands,  and  I fancy  are  often  as  interested 
listeners  as  those  who  take  a more  prominent 
part  in  the  discussions.  In  the  beginning,  or 
at  the  close,  of  the  evening,  there  are  usually  re- 
freshments, either  very  simple,  or  somewhat 
more  elaborate,  as  the  taste  of  the  hostess  may 
dictate. 

At  the  newer  and  smaller  stations  there  are 
naturally  fewer  of  these  social  interviews ; but 
even  there  we  have  quiet  little  “ tea-drinkings,” 
which  are  pleasant  breaks  in  our  very  monoto- 
nous lives.  I feel  sure,  however,  that  we  mis- 
sionaries often  err  in  not  making  more  of  each 
other’s  society,  and  contriving  in  various  ways 


212 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


to  forget,  for  the  time,  our  work  and  our  sur- 
roundings. 

In  most  stations  the  missionaries,  and  other 
religiously  disposed  foreign  residents,  either  mer- 
chants of  various  sorts,  mere  transient  visitors, 
or  persons  in  the  civil  service,  are  accustomed  to 
meet  at  least  once,  each  Sabbath,  for  public  wor- 
ship. The  missionaries  who  conduct  the  exer- 
cises usually  have  written  sermons,  prepared  with 
the  same  care  as  if  they  were  to  be  delivered  to 
home  audiences.  Of  course  these  exercises  are 
in  English.  In  large  foreign  settlements,  such 
as  Shanghai  and  Hong-kong,  there  are  chaplains 
connected  with  the  established  church  of  Eng- 
land, and  also  occasionally  of  other  denomina- 
tions, who  hold  Sabbath  services  and  pay  special 
attention  to  the  religious  wants  of  their  coun- 
trymen. Some  of  these  clergymen,  like  the  late 
Mr.  Hobson  of  Shanghai,  have  been  persons  of 
great  piety  and  most  exemplary  lives,  while  oth- 
ers resemble,  to  a sad  degree,  pictures  frequently 
given  us  of  the  “sporting  parsons”  of  England. 
The  same  remark  holds  good  of  the  chaplains  on 
board  “men  of  war,”  both  English  and  Ameri- 
can. Some  of  these  have  been  persons  of  such 
marked  and  elevated  Christian  character  that, 
wherever  they  go,  and  under  whatever  circum- 


VIEWS  OF  CHINESE  CHARACTER.  213 


stances  they  are  placed,  their  influence  for  good 
is  wide-spread  and  powerful ; while  others,  hav- 
ing grievously  failed  in  their  duties  on  shipboard, 
seem  not  less  remiss  in  their  intercourse  with 
foreigners  with  whom  they  come  in  contact  at  the 
ports  where  they  happen  to  be  temporarily  sta- 
tioned. This  class  of  clergymen,  I scarcely  need 
say,  feel  no  special  interest  in  the  work  of  mis- 
sions, and  take  no  pains  to  inform  themselves 
upon  it.  This  being  the  case,  it  is  not  strange 
that  they  leave  the  country  with  the  impression 
that  but  little  has  been  accomplished,  or  that  it 
is  a hopeless  undertaking.  We  have  often  been 
troubled  by  the  false  and  injurious  reports  circu- 
lated by  travellers,  ship  captains  and  foreign  resi- 
dents, who  are  not  in  sympathy  with  us,  respect- 
ing the  national  peculiarities  of  the  Chinese,  and 
the  supposed  hypocrisy  of  the  native  converts  to 
Christianity,  together  with  innuendoes  as  to  the 
character  of  the  missionaries,  and  their  alleged 
want  of  success. 

It  is  not  strange  that  irreligious  people  should 
feel  little  interested  in  the  spread  of  the  gospel ; 
but  I cannot  understand  how  any  one  can  be  guilty 
of  so  dishonorable  an  action  as  to  make  completely 
false  statements,  either  willingly,  or  when  by 
any  means  they  might  have  been  more  correctly 


214 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


informed.  Yet  such  has  been  the  case  in  numer- 
ous instances.  Let  me  quote  an  extract  from  an 
article  which  appeared  a few  years  since  in  a 
Hong-kong  “ daily.”  The  writer  says,  “Ask 
any  man  of  mind  and  experience  in  China, 
and  he  will  tell  you  that  it  is  childish  to  expect 
to  convert  the  Chinese,  by  any  means  yet  at- 
tempted, to  what  we  call  in  England,  Ireland, 
and  Scotland,  Christianity.”  Hereupon  follows 
a dissertation  to  prove  that  the  only  feasible  plan 
for  converting  a nation  is  to  teach  them  “ civil 
engineering,”  and  the  like,  in  which  way,  he 
adds,  “ you  will  do  more  for  Christianity,  in  fifty 
years,  than  the  old  lady's  string  of  tenets  (by 
which  he  must  mean  the  gospel),  uttered  from 
the  mouth  of  any  number  of  maudlin  missionaries, 
could  effect  in  fifty  centuries.”  I might  give 
extracts  from  other  writers  or  travellers,  almost 
as  interesting,  and  quite  as  reliable  ; but  one  such 
is  enough.  It  is  certainly  not  pleasant  to  be 
thus  misunderstood,  or  misrepresented;  but,  if  it 
were  not  that  this  and  similar  statements  have 
created  such  a false  and  mischievous  impression 
upon  many  who  are  not  acquainted  with  the 
facts  of  the  case,  they  would  not  be  worth  notice. 
Only  a few  moments  since  I received  a visit  from 
an  intelligent  lady,  who  in  the  course  of  our  con- 


VIEWS  OF  CHINESE  CHARACTER.  215 


versation  remarked,  referring  to  a little  book  she 
had  read  describing  a Chinese  boy,  “I  was  so 
surprised,  I really  could  not  understand  it. 
How  could  it  be  possible  that  a Chinese  should 
be  so  intelligent  ? ” adding,  “I  used  to  feel  a 
deep  interest  in  the  Chinese,  while  I have  now 
not  the  slightest,  since  I have  learned  that  they 
are  so  degraded .”  When  I inquired  upon  what 
she  had  based  her  opinions,  she  found  it  difficult 
to  tell.  She  had  recently  read  some  work,  by 
whom  written  she  could  not  say,  and  also  the 
letters  of  some  recent  traveller,  whose  name  she 
had  likewise  forgotten,  which  had  given  her  an 
idea  of  the  extreme  “ stupidity  ” of  the  Chinese, 
as  well  as  of  their  ‘‘degradation,”  and  of  noth- 
ing more.  Consequently  she  seemed  almost 
unwilling  to  be  disabused  of  her  incorrect  opin- 
ions, or  to  open  her  heart  to  any  feeling  of  love 
or  sympathy  for  my  adopted  countrymen.  That 
they  are  in  many  respects  very  degraded,  I sor- 
rowfully admit ; but,  for  that  very  reason,  a 
Christian  ought  to  feel  for  them  the  more.  It  is 
rather  late  in  the  day  for  any  one  to  be  startled 
by  the  fact  that  a China  boy,  or  man,  shows 
signs  of  “intellect.”  I presume,  if  our  dis- 
tinguished countryman,  Mr.  Burlingame,  were 
interrogated  on  this  subject,  he  would  speak  of 


216 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


the  Chinese  in  much  more  flattering  terms  than 
I dare  use,  for  fear  of  being  thought  guilty  of 
exaggeration,  and  that,  too,  while  he  would  feel 
deeply  their  need  of  the  true  religion,  and  of 
greatly  advanced  attainments  in  those  arts  and 
sciences  which  are  the  pride  of  civilized  Christian 
nations  in  this  nineteenth  century. 

Several  years  since,  a young  Chinese  gentleman 
graduated  at  Yale  College,  who  took  the  first  prize 
for  English  composition,  and  that,  as  I have  been 
assured,  not  in  any  measure  in  consideration  of 
being  a foreigner,  but  because  of  the  real  ex- 
cellence of  his  production : while  only  a few 
months  ago,  another  young  Chinese,  at  another 
college,  had  the  Greek  “valedictory.”  There  is 
now  in  China  a native  physician  who  received 
his  medical  education  in  Scotland.  ITe  became 
not  only  exceedingly  well  qualified  for  his  pro- 
fession, but  also  an  excellent  botanist.  These, 
and  other  similar  cases  which  I might  mention, 
prove,  to  say  the  least,  that  the  Chinese,  if 
given  the  same  opportunities  for  improvement, 
will  not  be  very  inferior  in  intellectual  attain- 
ments to  our  boasted  Anglo  Saxon  race. 

I was  mentioning,  not  long  since,  some  in- 
cident connected  with  a Chinese  gentleman,  hear- 
ing which,  a friend  exclaimed,  “ It  does  sound  so 


VIEWS  OF  CHINESE  CHARACTER.  217 


droll  to  hear  you  speak  of  a Chinese  as  a 
‘ gentleman .’ ” When  I inquired  if  she  were 
accustomed  to  consider  only  such  persons  11  gen- 
tlemen ” as  she  had  reason  to  believe  were  truly 
pious,  she  answered,  “By  no  means;”  that, 
on  the  contrary,  “ some  of  the  wickedest  men 
she  had  ever  met  were  acknowledged  by  all 
to  be  very  elegant  gentlemen.”  After  such 
an  admission,  it  was  not  difficult  to  convince  her 
that  she  had  been  decidedly  mistaken  in  her 
previous  estimate  of  the  Chinese.  Indeed,  as 
far  as  the  mere  matter  of  external  manners  is 
concerned,  there  is  but  very  little  for  us  to  teach 
those  to  wffiom  that  subject  has  been  made  a 
study,  — not  left,  as  is  too  much  the  case  in  our 
country,  to  each  individual’s  own  disposition,  or 
sense  of  propriety.  Chinese  boys  are  taught 
from  their  earliest  years  to  pay  great  deference 
to  their  superiors  in  age  or  station ; and,  as  for  a 
graceful  bow,  surely  they  may  at  least  have 
credit  for  that.  Years  ago,  when  the  boys  of  the 
boarding-school  were  chiefly  under  the  care  of 
the  foreign  missionary,  there  was  less  attention 
bestowed  upon  manners  and  etiquette  than  is 
usual  in  Chinese  schools,  and  the  boys,  naturally 
taking  their  foreign  teacher  as  their  standard  of 
excellence,  in  this,  as  in  other  respects,  acquired 


218 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


the  habit  of  inclining  the  head  at  the  slightest 
possible  departure  from  a perpendicular,  when 
chancing  to  meet  an  acquaintance  in  the  street ; 
and  on  grand  occasions,  such  as  the  customary 
New- Year  greetings,  when  the  natives  make  such 
profound  and  graceful  sweeps  that  one  wonders 
at  their  skill  in  recovering  their  equipoise,  our 
poor  students  seemed  decidedly  stiff  and  awk- 
ward. This  was  considered  by  the  older  church- 
members,  and  other  Chinese,  as  an  evidence  of 
ill-breeding,  and  a great  defect  in  the  school, 
and  was  criticised  severely.  There  has,  how- 
ever, of  late  years,  been  more  attention  bestowed 
upon  this  department  of  education,  so  that  our 
pupils  are  able  to  pass  as  gentlemen,  though  they 
do  not  excel  in  the  respects  above  alluded  to. 

I do  not  think  that  little  girls  in  China  have 
nearly  as  much  attention  given  to  their  manners 
as  children  of  the  other  sex ; and,  consequently, 
they  are  hardly  their  equals  in  the  grace  and 
propriety  which  often  surprise  us,  even  in  very 
young  boys.  The  girls  in  our  school  have  a 
disagreeable  way  of  affecting  “shyness.”  Ad- 
dress them,  and  they  shrug  their  shoulders  and 
sidle  off,  with  a mixture  of  timidity  and  disgust 
which  is  not  at  all  pleasing,  and  which  is  usually 
either  entirely  v assumed,  or  only  a habit,  of 


VIEWS  OP  CHINESE  CHARACTER.  219 


which.  I think  they  might  be  broken.  This  habit 
is  not  by  any  means  common  to  all  Chinese  girls ; 
on  the  contrary,  many  have  sweet,  engaging 
manners,  and  are  very  winning.  I cannot  say 
that  they  are  ever  graceful , as  their  poor  little 
cramped  feet  render  grace,  at  least,  of  motion, 
quite  impossible. 

It  is  pleasant  to  notice  how  many  points  of 
resemblance  there  are  in  little  children  the  world 
over.  Persons  who  find  it  difficult  to  believe 
that  a Chinese  can  be  a “ gentleman,”  or  is 
possessed  of  “intellect,”  may  be  surprised  to 
hear  that  our  little  “ Orientals  ” are  playful,  fond 
of  sports  and  frolic,  and  not  unfrequently  mis- 
chievous, and  addicted  to  practical  jokes, — 
though  not  indeed  to  the  extent  that  character- 
izes youths  of  Western  lands.  Perhaps,  owing 
to  the  enervating  effects  of  the  climate,  our 
Ningpo  school-boys  have  not  been  very  ready  to 
adopt  the  plays  which  are  favorites  with  their 
class  in  this  country,  though  their  teachers  have 
made  strenuous  efforts  to  introduce  them.  Their 
tastes  incline  to  quieter  sports.  There  is  nothing 
which  seems  to  have  more  fascination  for  them 
than  kite-flying,  while  “marbles,”  and  certain 
mild  games  of  “ ball,”  are  also  common.  I sus- 
pect that  in  colder  latitudes,  where  the  adults 


220 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


have  a much  better  developed  physique , the 
children  will  exhibit  a corresponding  fondness 
for  more  athletic  out-door  games. 

I alluded  not  long  since  to  the  pleasant  epi- 
sodes in  our  monotonous  lives  sometimes  afforded 
by  visits  from  our  countrymen  and  others.  Still 
more  rare,  and  not  less  delightful,  are  the  friend- 
ships formed  with  lady  visitors,  or  the  wives  of 
foreign  residents,  who,  desirous  no  less  than 
ourselves  of  the  good  of  the  natives,  join  heartily 
in  assisting  us  in  every  way  in  their  power,  and, 
by  warm  sympathy,  as  well  as  material  aid,  have 

helped  us  much.  Such  an  one  was  Mrs.  Ii , 

of  New  Haven,  who  spent  a year  or  two  with 
her  brother,  the  United  States  Consul  at  Ningpo. 
Another,  to  whom,  in  some  perplexity,  I applied 
for  aid  in  the  support  of  some  native  female  as- 
sistants, thanked  me  warmly  for  the  privilege, 
and  gave  me  at  once  a larger  sum  than  I should 
have  thought  of  asking  for.  This  was  Mrs. 

T , recently  of  Shanghai.  Many  similar 

acts  of  kindness  and  courtesy  on  the  part  of 
other  foreign  residents  I should  take  pleasure  in 
mentioning  here,  were  it  proper  to  do  so. 

Although  at  the  foreign  settlements  in  China, 
and,  I think,  also  at  most  other  Eastern  ports, 
there  has  not  been  as  much  intimacy  or  sympathy 


VIEWS  OF  CHINESE  CHARACTER.  221 


existing  between  the  missionaries  and  other  for- 
eign residents  as  would  have  seemed  natural,  and 
on  various  accounts  desirable,  there  have  been 
many  cases  of  the  warmest  friendship  and  mu- 
tual interchange  of  kindly  offices. 

The  fact  that  many  of  the  most  prominent 
mercantile  establishments  in  China  have  been 
directly  engaged  in  the  opium  traffic,  has  been 
of  itself  a sufficient  reason  why  intimacy  between 
the  two  classes  should  seem,  at  least  in  the  eyes 
of  the  natives,  somewhat  anomalous ; the  one 
residing  in  their  midst  professedly  with  no  other 
object  than  to  elevate  and  benefit  them,  the  other 
amassing  wealth  at  the  expense  of  their  degrada- 
tion and  misery. 

One  of  the  standing  objections  brought  by  the 
Chinese  against  foreigners  is  the  fact  that  by 
them  opium  was  introduced  into  their  country ; 
thus,  for  the  love  of  gain,  effecting  the  ruin  of 
millions ; and  it  is  a charge  to  which  we  are 
obliged  to  plead  guilty.  We  can  only  answer, 
in  extenuation,  that  if  the  Chinese  did  not  desire 
the  drug,  and  offer  such  an  inviting  market  for 
it,  it  would  not  be  brought  to  them.  And  that, 
moreover,  it  is  only  a very  small  proportion  of 
foreigners  who  have  ever  had  the  least  connection 
with  it,  while  the  great  majority  regard  it  with 


222 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


as  much  abhorrence  as  do  the  Chinese  them- 
selves. 

Natives,  who  have  much  intercourse  with  the 
foreign  settlements,  soon  become  fully  aware  of 
the  character  and  objects  of  the  various  classes 
composing  it. 

By  the  way,  the  Chinese  are  very  quick  in 
their  appreciation  of  character.  Foreigners  are 
often  surprised  to  find  how  correct  has  been  their 
estimate  of  themselves  or  of  others. 

In  the  latter  part  of  December  we  were  cheered 
by  the  arrival  of  a much-needed  reinforcement  to 
our  mission  at  Ningpo.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Green 
and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Danforth  arrived  in  time  to 
celebrate  the  New  Year  with  new  friends  and  in 
new  scenes.  Mrs.  Danforth  had  been  very  ill 
on  the  voyage,  and  was  obliged  to  remain  some 
time  at  Shanghai,  before  resuming  her  journey 
to  Ningpo. 

It  would  be  difficult  for  those  who  have  not 
experienced  it  to  appreciate  the  pleasure  with 
which  we  look  forward  to  welcoming  recruits  to 
our  little  missionary  band.  And,  when  they 
arrive  with  young  and  happy  hearts,  radiant 
with  health  and  hopefulness,  it  seems  like  breath- 
ing a breath  of  our  native  air,  or  as  if,  in  seeing 
them,  we  had  had  a glimpse  of  cheerful  home 


ARRIVAL  OF  MISSIONARIES. 


223 


scenes  and  faces.  I do  not  like  to  admit  that 
we  all  become  so  dull  and  sedate  as  this  would 
seem  to  imply,  but  certainly  the  “ toning-down  ” 
process  in  most  mission  stations  is  quite  too 
rapid.  Next  to  real  piety  and  practical  energy, 
I think  no  qualification  for  missionary  life  is 
more  important  than  a cheerful,  sunny  disposi- 
tion, and  a good  fund  of  “ animal  spirits.” 

But  it  is  not  with  pleasure  only  that  we  look 
forward  to  the  advent  of  “new  missionaries.” 
We  feel  also  no  small  degree  of  anxiety ; for  past 
experience  has  proved  that  an  accession  of  num- 
bers does  not  necessarily  imply  an  increase  of 
strength  or  of  happiness.  Thus  it  is  with  reason 
that  we  wonder  whether  our  expected  friends  will 
be  persons  of  the  “ right  stamp.”  Will  they  be 
loving  and  devoted  Christians?  Will  they  be  cul- 
tivated and  agreeable  ? Will  they  be  additions  to 
our  social  gatherings  ; and  to  us  personally  will 
they  be  congenial  ? For,  after  all,  they  may 
possess  every  other  qualification  and  prove  most 
efficient  and  useful  missionaries,  yet,  owing  to 
differences  in  tastes,  or  previous  habits  of  living, 
we  and  they  may  never  become  intimate.  It  is 
a mistake  to  suppose,  because  our  aim  in  life  and 
our  circumstances  are  similar,  and  we  are,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  thrown  much  together,  that, 


224 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


therefore,  we  are  necessarily  admitted  to  the 
inner  sanctum  of  each  other’s  hearts,  and  be- 
come more  than  very  good  friends.  But  do  we 
not  often  see  this  same  result  illustrated  even 
within  the  narrow  limits  of  the  home  circle? 
How  few  brothers  and  sisters,  even  where  educa- 
tion and  external  circumstances  have  been  pre- 
cisely the  same,  sustain  to  each  other  that  still 
nearer  relationship,  wherein  soul  meets  soul ! 

“ Few  are  the  hearts,  whence  the  same  touch 
Bids  the  same  feelings  flow.” 

But  when  we  are  privileged  to  meet  a mission- 
ary associate  between  whom  and  ourselves  we  rec- 
ognize the  spell  of  that  “electric  chain,”  where- 
with some  hearts  are  bound  together,  the  tie  is  a 
very  close  one,  and  lasts  till  death.  Many  such 
friendships  we  have  been  privileged  to  make,  and 
the  recollection  of  them  will  always  be  sweet, 
though  in  some  cases  they  can  never  be  renewed 
on  earth. 

Near  the  close  of  the  first  month  of  the  new 
year,  Mrs.  Lord,  of  the  American  Baptist  Mis- 
sion, was  removed  by  death.  She  left  five  little 
children,  the  oldest  of  whom  was  only  in  her 
sixth  year.  Mrs.  Lord  was  a most  faithful  and 
devoted  wife  and  mother.  Naturally  warm-hearted 


REMOVALS  BY  DEATH. 


225 


and  affectionate,  she  was  bound  up  in  her  family, 
to  whom  her  presence  and  care  seemed  a neces- 
sity. Yet  when,  near  the  close  of  her  illness, 
she  realized  fully  that  all  those  tender  ties  must 
soon  be  broken,  such  grace  was  given  her  that 
she  was  able  trustfully  to  surrender  all  to  the 
care  and  faithfulness  of  her  heavenly  Father. 

On  the  morning  of  the  day  before  she  died, 
she  said  with  a most  cheerful  manner  to  a friend 
who  sat  by  her  side,  “ Do  you  not  congratulate 
me?”  And  in  the  course  of  that  last  day  she 
remarked  to  her  husband  that  “ she  never  had 
thought  it  possible  that  she  could  feel  so  willing 
to  die,  or  so  happy  and  peaceful  in  the  prospect.” 
And  this  calm  renunciation  was  not  in  the  least 
owing  to  a torpor  of  intellect  or  affections,  for, 
to  the  last,  her  mind  was  clear,  and  her  heart 
seemed  overflowing  with  love  and  tenderness. 
As  the  last  hour  drew  near,  she  exclaimed,  “ I 
think  I must  be  dying ; for  now  it  is  growing 
dark.”  But  no  shadow  nor  darkness  rested 
upon  her  soul : there  all  was  light  and  gladness. 
When  her  little  children  were  brought  to  her, 
she  gave  them  each  her  farewell  with  perfect 
calmness  and  resignation,  and  not  long  after, 
without  a struggle  or  groan,  she  fell  asleep  in 
Jesus. 


15 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


•+  *>  /» 

•»bO 

Dear  little  Lucy  said  to  me  the  morning  after 
her  mother’s  death,  “ Mamma  is  asleep  ; she  can- 
not open  her  eyes.”  She  was  too  young  to  un- 
derstand at  all  the  nature  of  death,  but  had  an 
indefinite  idea  that  her  mother  had  gone  to 
“ Heaven,  the  place  where  God  is,  and  the  holy 
angels  and  good  little  children  are.” 

For  a week  or  two  after  Mrs.  Lord’s  death, 
Mr.  Nevius  and  I were  Mr.  Lord’s  guests,  — I 
taking  some  little  oversight  of  the  poor  mother- 
less children.  The  baby  was  quickly  removed 
to  the  house  of  one  of  our  most  loved  missionary 
ladies,  and  when  I returned  to  Mr.  Rankin’s,  I 
took  Lucy  with  me ; while  her  little  sister  Fan- 
ny went  to  live  with  Mrs.  McCartee,  and  the  two 
boys  were  kindly  received  by  an  English  mission 
family.  Thus  in  a few  days  that  happy  home 
was  made  desolate. 

Little  Lucy  was  a sweet,  affectionate  child,  and 
we  soon  learned  to  love  each  other.  She  and  a 
daughter  of  Mrs.  Rankin,  of  about  the  same 
age,  were  nice  playmates  and  bedfellows.  It 
was  amusing  to  see  them  after  they  had  arranged 
themselves  for  the  night,  each  with  a doll,  nearly 
as  large  as  herself,  resting  upon  her  arm. 

During  the  autumn  and  winter  of  this  year, 
my  health  was  very  poor,  and  my  voice  so  weak 


REMOVALS  BY  DEATH. 


227 


that  I was  able  to  do  but  little  which  required 
much  strength  or  effort  in  speaking.  When  all 
about  me  were  so  busy  it  seemed  hard  that  I 
should  be  useless.  Weak  and  disheartened,  I 
often  felt  like  echoing  those  quaint  words  of 
Herbert,  — 

“ All  things  are  busy, 

Only  I neither  bring  honey  with  the  bees, 

Nor  flowers  to  make  that,  nor  the  husbandry 
To  water  these. 

I am  no  link  in  Thy  great  chain, 

But  all  my  company  is  a weed. 

Lord,  place  mo  in  thy  consort;  give  one  strain 
To  my  poor  reed.” 

Our  good  friends  began  to  suggest  the  impor- 
tance of  my  leaving  Ningpo  before  the  heat  of 
another  summer.  But  I was  very  averse  to 
taking  my  husband  from  a place  where  it  seemed 
to  me  that  his  services  were  more  needed  than 
they  could  be  elsewhere,  and  I think,  if  I had 
been  allowed  the  privilege  of  deciding  the  ques- 
tion, we  would  never  have  left  there,  though  I 
can  now  see  many  reasons,  aside  from  my  health, 
why  it  was  much  better  that  we  did  so. 

In  the  month  of  April  our  hearts  were  sad- 
dened by  the  occurrence  of  another  of  those 
mysterious  events  for  the  solution  of  which  we 
must  wait  the  revelations  of  eternity.  I refer 


228 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


to  the  death  of  Rev.  Reuben  Lowrie,  of  Shang- 
hai. His  health  had  been  declining  for  months, 
but  he  and  his  many  friends  had  hoped  that  he 
might  rally,  and  be  long  spared  to  the  work 
which  he  so  loved,  and  for  which  he  was  emi- 
nently fitted. 

He  was  a younger  brother  of  Rev.  Walter 
Lowrie,  whose  death  at  the  hands  of  pirates 
I have  already  described.  These  brothers,  I 
think,  must  have  resembled  each  other  in  many 
respects.  Both  were  possessed  of  clear,  com- 
manding intellects,  and  of  deep  and  ardent  piety. 
Mr.  Reuben  Lowrie  spoke  the  Shanghai  dialect, 
particularly  well,  and  preached  in  it  with  ease 
and  power.  His  death  was  a great  loss  to  the 
cause  ; or  rather  it  appeared  so  to  us.  How  lit- 
tle we  know  of  God’s  plans  and  purposes ! Many 
of  his  providences  in  heathen  lands,  where  again 
and  again  he  has  removed  those  who  were  pre- 
eminently fitted  for  his  work,  seem  as  if  expressly 
intended  to  teach  his  church  to  1 1 cease  from 
man,”  and  to  depend  for  success  entirely  upon 
him,  — a lesson  which  we  have  been  slow  to 
learn.  “Not  by  might  nor  by  power,  but  by  my 
Spirit,  saith  the  Lord.” 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


229 


CHAPTER  IX. 

VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 

Owing  to  the  unsettled  state  of  China,  not 
only  in  consequence  of  the  war  in  which  she  was 
engaged  with  the  allied  armies  of  France  and 
England,  but  also  on  account  of  the  movements  of 
the  Tai-ping  rebels,  who  were  then  threatening 
various  places  on  the  coast,  it  was  not  practicable 
to  attempt  a residence  at  any  of  the  usual  re- 
treats in  the  neighborhood  of  Ningpo. 

While  we  were  still  living  in  Hang-chow,  we 
had  been  somewhat  surprised  at  receiving  an  ap- 
appointment  from  our  society  at  home,  to  go  in 
company  with  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Hepburn,  to  begin  a 
new  station  in  Japan.  Although  we  were  not 
prepared,  even  after  we  were  driven  from  Hang- 
chow, at  once  to  accept  this  appointment  and 
permanently  give  up  China,  it  was  decided,  in 
June  of  1860,  that,  in  consideration  of  the  low 
state  of  my  health,  and  the  doctor’s  imperative 
advice  that  I should  not  remain  longer  in  Ning- 


230 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


po,  we  should  spend  a few  months  in  Japan: 
leaving  the  question  of  remaining  there,  or  corn- 
ing back  to  China,  to  be  decided  by  providential 
indications  in  the  future. 

At  a recent  meeting  of  the  Ningpo  Presby- 
tery, Mr.  Nevius  had  been  appointed  to  prepare 
a “ Compendium  of  Theology,”  — a work  much 
needed  by  the  theological  students  and  others. 
It  was  almost  impossible,  amidst  the  constant  in- 
terruptions to  which  he  was  liable  at  Ningpo,  to 
find  the  time  necessary  for  the  accomplishment 
of  the  task  assigned  him ; and  a temporary  so- 
journ elsewhere  was  for  this  reason  most  oppor- 
tune. 

We  took  passage  for  Shanghai,  en  route  for 
Japan  in  a pretty  little  vessel  called  the 
“Heather  Bell.”  On  the  second  night  we  an- 
chored at  Woo-sung,  the  mouth  of  the  Hwang-po 
Biver,  upon  which  Shanghai  is  situated.  We 
counted  nearly  a dozen  French  ships  of  war, 
lying  at  anchor  not  far  from  us.  They  swarmed 
with  soldiers,  many  of  whom  were  Manilamen, 
miserable-looking  objects,  wrapped  up  in  their 
blankets,  as  if  suffering  from  the  cold,  although 
it  was  already  June.  Six  or  eight  of  the  ships 
were  getting  up  steam  preparatory  to  starting  for 
the  Peiho.  We  were  told  that  there  was  not  a 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


231 


cordial  state  of  feeling  existing  between  the 
French  and  English ; that  in  fact,  though  acting 
together  against  the  Chinese,  there  was  so  little 
kindliness  between  them  that  they  scarcely  knew 
whether  to  consider  themselves  friends  or  ene- 
mies. 

We  found  our  foreign  friends  at  Shanghai 
very  uneasy,  on  account  of  an  anticipated  attack 
from  the  insurgents  who  were  near  them.  On  the 
day  of  our  arrival,  two  hundred  men  were  taken, 
on  suspicion  of  being  rebels,  and  would  at  once 
have  been  put  to  death,  as  such,  had  not  the 
French  interfered,  and  insisted  upon  the  captives 
having  a fair  trial.  It  was  found  upon  investi- 
gation that  they  were,  as  they  asserted,  a detach- 
ment of  disbanded  Imperialist  soldiers. 

There  was  a report  that  Su-chau,  the  capital 
of  the  province,  had  Already  been  captured  by 
the  insurgents ; in  consequence  of  which,  busi- 
ness in  the  foreign  settlement  was  nearly  sus- 
pended ; and  so  few  ships  were  offering  for  Ja- 
pan that  we  were  detained  about  two  weeks 
before  sailing. 

Although  Shanghai  was  early  occupied  as 
a mission  station,  it  has  never  been  a very  suc- 
cessful one.  When  we  first  reached  China,  the 
American  Episcopal  Church  had  a large  mis- 


232 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


sion  there  ; while  the  American  Baptists  (South- 
ern), Methodists,  Presbyterians,  and  several  Eng- 
lish societies,  also  had  their  representatives. 
One  member  of  our  mission,  Rev.  Mr.  Culbert- 
son, resided  in  the  same  compound  with  “ Bishop 
Boon’s  Mission,”  as  that  of  the  American  Episco- 
palians was  called,  while  two  or  three  families 
were  at  South  Gate,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
city,  three  miles  distant.  Their  dwelling-houses, 
together  with  a church  and  two  small  school  build- 
ings, formed  a pretty  little  settlement,  in  the 
midst  of  a dense  Chinese  population.  Such  a 
situation  was  much  better  adapted  to  missionary 
work  than  if  it  had  been  nearer  the  foreign  com- 
munity. 

We  spent  some  time  at  South  Gate,  with 
Mrs.  Reuben  Lowrie.  She  and  her  sister,  with 
her  three  little  children,  were  about  preparing  to 
return  to  the  United  States.  We  missed  Mr. 
Lowrie  constantly ; the  place  seemed  sadly 
changed  without  him. 

As  it  was  important  that  we  should  be  nearer 
the  shipping,  we  came  over  to  Mr.  Culbertson’s 
several  days  before  leaving.  Their  kind  hospi- 
tality we  have  enjoyed  again  and  again ; and,  no 
matter  how  frequent  our  visits,  their  cordial 
welcome  was  ever  the  same. 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


233 


Bishop  Boon’s  Mission  had  just  received  a 
large  reinforcement,  among  whom  were  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Dudley  Smith,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Parker, 
who  were  afterwards  associated  with  us  in  Shan- 
tung. 

We  were  so  fortunate  as  to  secure  a passage 
direct  for  Kanagawa,  in  a large  English  ship, 
called  the  “Challenger;”  the  captain  of  which 
was  a good  Christian  man,  — such  as  is  not  seen 
as  often  as  could  be  wished  in  his  position. 

As  our  visit  to  Japan  was  merely  an  episode 
in  our  “Life  in  China,”  I shall  not  hesitate  to 
describe  both  the  country  and  our  sojourn  there. 

We  were  about  a week  in  going  from  Shang- 
hai to  Kanagawa ; scarcely  long  enough  to 
recover  fully  from  sea-sickness.  Indeed,  some 
of  the  passengers  were  violently  ill  the  whole 
way.  We  took  with  us,  from  Shanghai,  a little 
son  of  Rev.  Mr.  Syle,  of  the  American  Episcopal 
Mission.  He  was  in  very  delicate  health,  and 
was  sent  to  Japan,  with  the  hope  that  a more 
favorable  climate  might  invigorate  him.  He 
went  to  be  the  guest  of  Mrs.  S.  R.  Brown,  of 
the  Dutch  Reformed  Mission,  of  the  U.  S. 
Dear  Freddie  was  one  of  the  loveliest  children  I 
ever  knew.  We  became  fast  friends,  and  he 
was  my  frequent  visitor,  and  a sweet  little  com- 


234 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


panion.  It  is  now  several  years  since  he  was 
taken  from  earth  to  a better  world.  It  seems 
natural  to  think  of  him  there.  “ Of  such  is  the 
kingdom  of  heaven.” 

The  night  before  we  reached  Japan  we  were 
in  much  danger,  as  the  captain  was  uncertain  as 
to  his  position,  and  the  night  was  dark  and  fog- 
gy. But,  when  the  morning  dawned,  we  found 
ourselves  in  mid  channel,  and  fairly  in  the  Yed- 
do  Bay,  with  the  “ Country  of  the  Rising  Sun” 
spread  out  before  us.  Kanagawa,  and  Yokaha- 
ma,  the  foreign  settlement,  were  plainly  in  sight 
on  the  shore.  Behind  them  rose  a succession 
of  low,  undulating  hills;  while  apparently  near, 
though  in  reality  seventy  miles  distant,  towered 
the  symmetrical  and  snow-capped  Fusiyama,  — 
the  sacred  mountain  of  Japan.  This  is  an  ex- 
tinct volcano,  — in  shape,  a very  perfect  cone,  — 
in  height,  over  fourteen  thousand  feet.  At  even- 
ing, as  the  setting  sun  gilds  the  clouds  and 
mists  which  rest  upon  its  summit,  its  “purple 
robes  of  gold  and  violet”  seem  indeed  a fitting 
mantle  for  this  prince  of  mountains.  And  when 
at  dawn  of  day  the  whole  mountain-side  is 
tinted  with  a roseate  hue,  it  is  no  less  beautiful. 
Look  when  you  will,  it  is  always  lovely,  and 
always  fascinating  ; and  I do  not  wonder  in  the 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


235 


least  at  the  reverence  and  affection  with  which 
the  J apanese  regard  it.  It  is  Fusiyama  which  we 
see  so  often  represented  by  native  artists,  either 
in  paintings  or  on  their  lacquered  ware. 

The  early  history  of  Japan  is  enveloped  in 
much  obscurity ; and,  until  within  a few  years, 
its  present  character,  the  singular  form  of  its 
government,  and  the  peculiar  habits  and  customs 
of  its  inhabitants  have  all  been  very  imperfectly 
understood.  As  I do  not  feel  myself  capable  of 
speaking  with  confidence  on  this  subject,  I shall 
avail  myself  of  some  statistics  and  information 
from  Sir  Rutherford  Alcock’s  “ Three  Years  in 
Japan,”  as  fuller  and  more  reliable  than  any 
other  work  within  my  reach.  The  quotations  in 
the  pages  following  will  be  nearly  all  from 
him. 

I quite  agree  with  Sir  Rutherford  in  his 
remark  that  “writers  on  Japan  have  hith- 
erto seen  everything  through  highly  colored 
glasses,  reminding  one  of  Dr.  Pangloss,  who 
“likes  everything,  and  everybody,  and  believes 
everything  is  the  very  best  in  the  best  of  all  possi- 
ble worlds.”  Similar  to  this  was  the  impression 
made  upon  many  of  the  officers  connected  with 
our  American  squadron,  to  whom  belonged  the 
honor  of  opening  the  long  closed  empire.  It 


236 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


certainly  was  not  strange  that,  under  the  inter- 
esting circumstances  of  their  first  visit  to  the 
“ beautiful  Isles  of  the  Rising  Sun,”  they  should 
have  been  ready  to  regard  not  only  the  country, 
but  the  natives,  in  somewhat  too  favorable  a 
light. 

A limited  trade  between  China  and  J apan  has 
existed  for  many  years  ; but  both  nations  have 
been  too  self-contained  and  unambitious  to  ex- 
tend their  commerce  as  they  might,  had  they 
been  so  inclined. 

“ To  a half-piratical,  half-trading  expedition 
of  three  Portuguese  adventurers  in  a Chinese 
junk,  driven,  they  knew  not  whither,  by 
stress  of  weather,  is  due  the  first  discovery  of 
Japan  itself.”  The  unknown  coast  upon  which 
these  adventurers  landed  1 1 proved  to  be  that 
part  of  Japan  owning  the  sovereignty  of  the 
Prince  of  Bungo ; and  we  find  the  J apanese, 
though  vigilant,  manifested  no  reluctance  to  ad- 
mit the  strangers.  They  even  showed  them 
much  kindness,  and  no  obstacle  was  interposed 
to  a free  trade  of  the  inhabitants  in  the  inter- 
change of  such  commodities  as  they  had  with 
them.  This  was  the  commencement  of  European 
intercourse  and  trade,  carrying  us  back  to  A.  D. 
1542-5. 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


237 


“A  few  years  later,  Hansiro,  a Japanese 
noble,  fled  his  country  for  1 an  act  of  homicide  ’ 
(having  run  some  fellow-subject  through  the 
body,  no  doubt) , and  took  refuge  in  Goa.  There 
he  was  converted  and  baptized. 

(i  This  proved  the  second  link  in  the  chain ; for, 
being  enterprising  and  shrewd,  and  animated, 
probably,  with  the  hot  zeal  of  a new  convert,  he 
soon  persuaded  the  merchants  of  Goa,  nothing 
loth,  we  may  imagine,  that  they  might  establish 
a profitable  trade  with  Japan;  while  to  the  Jes- 
uit fathers  he  promised  a rich  harvest  of  souls. 
He  obviously  preached  to  willing  ears  in  both 
directions,  and  foremost  among  his  listeners 
was  the  Jesuit  apostle  of  the  East,  Francis 
Xavier. 

“ A ship  was  forthwith  loaded  with  goods  and 
presents,  wherewith  to  commence  a permanent 
trade.  For  the  accomplishment  of  spiritual  ob- 
jects, Francis  Xavier  himself  embarked  with  the 
J apanese  refugee,  and  a number  of  his  order,  as 
missionaries.  A goodly  freight : J esuit  fathers 
to  win  souls  ; merchants  to  make  money ; mer- 
chandise for  the  people,  and  their  carnal  wants ; 
presents  to  propitiate  the  authorities,  — all  were 
duly  provided  ; and  thus  auspiciously  began  this 
second  chapter. 


238 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


“On  arriving  at  Bungo  they  were  received 
with  open  arms,  and  not  the  slightest  opposition 
was  made  to  the  introduction  of  either  trade  or 
religion.  No  system  of  exclusion  then  existed ; 
and  such  was  the  spirit  of  toleration  that  the 
government  made  no  objection  to  the  open 
preaching  of  Christianity.  Indeed,  the  Portu- 
guese were  freely  admitted  to  go  where  they 
pleased  in  the  empire,  and  to  travel  from  one 
end  of  it  to  the  other.  The  people  freely 
bought  the  goods  of  the  traders,  and  listened  to 
the  teachings  of  the  missionaries. 

“ And  a little  later  we  find  it  said,  ‘ If  the 
feudal  princes  were  ever  at  any  time  ready  to 
quarrel  with  the  merchant,  it  was  because  he 
would  not  come  to  their  ports.’  Passing  onward 
a few  years,  we  find  the  Christianity  of  the  Jes- 
uit fathers  spreading  rapidly  and  universally ; 
princes  and  rulers,  nobles  and  plebeians,  women 
and  children,  of  all  ranks  and  in  large  numbers, 
embraced  the  faith.  Churches,  hospitals,  con- 
vents, and  schools  were  scattered  over  the 
country.  Intermarriages  between  the  Portu- 
guese and  wealthy  Japanese  were  frequent. 

“ After  forty  years,  the  Roman  Catholic  faith 
was  in  such  high  esteem,  and  had  such  undis- 
puted possession  of  the  field  (no  Protestant  ele- 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


239 


ment  having  at  that  time  appeared  on  the  scene), 
that  a Japanese  embassy,  composed  of  three 
princes,  was  sent  to  Rome,  to  Pope  Gregory 
Thirteenth,  with  letters  and  valuable  presents. 
Their  reception  at  Rome  was  not  only  magnifi- 
cent, but  their  whole  progress  through  Spain 
and  Italy  was  one  continued  ovation.  ‘ A nation 
of  thirty  millions  of  civilized  and  intelligent  peo- 
ple had  been  won  from  the  heathen  ! ’ Great  in- 
deed was  the  joy  and  triumph,  and  this  was  the 
culminating  point  of  the  church’s  success.  But, 
strange  to  say,  in  that  same  hour,  while  the  ar- 
tillery of  St.  Angelo,  answered  by  the  guns  of 
the  Vatican,  was  thundering  a welcome  to  the 
Japanese  ambassadors,  an  edict  had  gone  forth 
from  the  Kubo-sama,  or  sovereign  lord  of  Japan, 
banishing  all  Catholic  missionaries  within  six 
months,  on  pain  of  death,  and  ordering  all  crosses 
to  be  thrown  down,  and  all  the  churches  to  be 
razed  to  the  ground. 

“ When  the  Jesuit  Superior,  Pere  Valignani, 
returned  with  the  ambassadors,  after  an  absence 
of  eight  years,  he  found  this  edict  in  force,  and 
partially  carried  out.  The  old  King  of  Bungo, 
the  great  protector  of  the  Jesuits,  was  dead,  his 
successor  ill  disposed.  All  their  Christian  com- 
munities, schools,  and  hospitals  had  been  sup- 


240 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


pressed,  and  the  missionaries  dispersed,  expelled, 
or  forced  into  concealment. 

“ The  first  edict  for  the  banishment  of  the  mis- 
sionaries was  published  in  June,  1587. 

“ In  the  year  1635,  the  Portuguese  were  shut 
up  in  Decima,  and  only  allowed  to  trade  there 
amidst,  it  is  said,  the  jeers  and  derision  of  their 
Dutch  rivals. 

“A  year  or  two  later,  the  fall  of  the  last 
Christian  stronghold,  Simabara,  marked  the 
final  catastrophe,  and  the  close  of  all  relations 
with  foreigners  but  the  miserable  ones  allowed  to 
the  Dutch  factory  in  Decima.  Since  that  date, 
until  recent  treaties  were  signed,  no  Japanese 
had  been  allowed  to  leave  his  island  home,  nor 
foreigners  to  land.  All  who  had  been  cast  on 
shore,  or  made  the  attempt,  had  either  been  killed 
or  imprisoned.” 

Sir  Rutherford  further  adds  : “ The  deter- 

mining cause  of  the  downfall  and  utter  destruc- 
tion of  the  Roman  church  in  Japan  is  to  be 
sought  in  the  pretension  to  a spiritual  supremacy, 
which  is  but  another  name  for  the  monopoly  of 
power,  since  all  that  is  political  or  secular  must 
bow  to  God’s  vicegerent  on  earth,  who  claims  the 
right  to  bind  and  to  loosen,  to  absolve  subjects  of 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


241 


their  oath  and  fealty,  and  dethrone  kings  by  his 
edict. 

“ This,  and  no  other  cause,  it  is  impossible 
to  doubt,  led  to  the  final  expulsion  of  every 
European,  the  extermination  of  every  Christian 
convert,  and  the  closing  of  every  port  for  two 
centuries.  The  annihilation  of  commerce  and 
material  interests  was  merely  a necessary  conse- 
quence of  the  close  connection  that  had  subsisted 
between  the  professors  of  religion  and  the  trad- 
ers, taken  in  connection  with  their  common 
nationality.” 

I have  given  these  lengthy  extracts,  because 
I thought  that  others  besides  myself  might  feel 
interested  in  tracing  the  introduction,  progress, 
and  final  overthrow  of  Roman  Catholicism  in 
J apan.  It  seems  to  me  very  sad  that  nations 
which,  like  China  and  Japan,  have  at  early 
periods  been  so  cordial  and  unsuspecting  in 
their  intercourse  with  other  countries,  should,  in 
consequence  of  unjust  and  wrong  dealings,  have 
afterwards  so  completely  changed  in  their  policy 
and  disposition.  In  both  of  these  cases  it  seems 
that  the  emissaries  of  the  Pope  have,  by  their 
injudicious  eagerness  for  gaining  both  temporal 
and  spiritual  power,  wrought  their  own  ruin,  as 
well  as  great  injury  to  others. 

16 


242 


OUR  LIFE  IH  CHINA. 


I have  been  struck  bj  the  coincidence  that 
it  was  in  the  very  same  year  in  which  Roman 
Catholicism  in  J apan  was  finally  suppressed,  and 
the  last  of  the  poor  native  converts  were  “ buried 
under  the  ruins  of  their  captured  city,  or  hurled 
from  the  rocky  islet  of  Pappenberg  in  the  Bay  of 
Nagisaki,”  that  the  Pilgrim  fathers,  fleeing  from 
religious  intolerance,  landed  upon  the  rocky 
shores  of  Plymouth,  New  England,  “there  to 
plant  the  seeds  of  a Protestant  faith,  and  a 
great  Protestant  empire.” 

During  our  first  summer  in  Ningpo,  we  had 
the  pleasure  of  meeting  many  of  the  officers  con- 
nected with  the  United  States  ships  Plymouth 
and  Powhatan,  which  had  just  returned  from 
Japan.  The  accounts  they  gave  us  of  the  coun- 
try and  people,  of  whom  we  had  until  then  known 
so  little,  were  full  of  interest. 

In  order  to  give  a correct  idea  of  the  difficulties 
attending  early  negotiations,  and  to  appreciate 
the  remarkable  change  which  has  now  taken 
place  in  Japan,  I shall  again  quote  from  Sir  R. 
Alcock,  who  certainly  cannot  be  charged  with 
prejudice  in  favor  of  America  or  Americans. 
After  having  hinted  at  some  causes  which  he 
thinks  contributed  to  the  favorable  result  of  open- 
ing the  empire  to  foreign  nations,  he  says  : “It 


THE  ISLAND  OF  PAPPENBERG. 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


243 


was  under  these  circumstances  that  Commodore 
Perry  appeared  off  Cape  Idzoo  on  July  8,  1853. 
with  an  American  squadron,  consisting  of  two 
large-class  steam  frigates,  and  two  sloops  of  war. 
And  having  delivered  a letter  from  the  President, 
proposing  a treaty  of  amity  and  commerce,  which 
the  Japanese  authorities  showed  little  disposition 
to  grant,  though  by  no  means  prepared  for  what 
they  evidently  anticipated  might  be  the  conse- 
quences of  a refusal,  the  commodore  took  his  de- 
parture, with  a promise,  or  a menace,  whichever 
way  it  may  have  been  taken,  of  returning  the 
following  year,  and  with  a 1 larger  fleet,’  for  a 
definite  answer. 

“ On  February  12th,  1854,  accordingly,  the 
commodore  reappeared  in  the  Bay  of  Yeddo, 
with  three  steam  frigates,  four  sloops  of  war, 
and  two  store-ships,  a squadron  of  nine  vessels.” 

This  formidable  demonstration  produced  so 
great  an  effect  that  Commodore  Perry  succeeded, 
though  not  without  very  tedious  delays,  in  se- 
curing a treaty,  opening  two  unimportant  ports, 
and  promising  aid  to  ships  in  distress. 

“ This  treaty  of  Commodore  Perry’s  brought, 
in  due  time,  a diplomatic  agent  of  the  United 
States  to  Simoda,  in  the  person  of  Mr.  Harris, 
with  the  special  title  of  Consul  General.  There 


244 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


he  resided  until  1857,  when,  having  a letter  of 
credence  from  the  President,  he  succeeded,  with 
no  small  difficulty,  in  obtaining  permission  to 
proceed  to  Yeddo  to  present  it,  either  to  the 
Tycoon  himself  or  to  his  ministers.  But  the 
Japanese  would  have  been  untrue  to  their  own 
nature  and  instincts  if  this  had  been  conceded 
without  a stout  resistance. 

“ The  way  in  which  parallels  of  attack  and 
words  of  counter-defence  were  drawn  by  the  two 
contending  forces  engaged  in  it  was  very  amus- 
ing to  trace.  The  thorough-going  and  clear- 
headed American,  feeling  he  held  a key  in  the 
President’s  letter,  which,  rightly  used,  might 
open  the  gates  of  Yeddo,  determined  to  put  it  to 
its  destined  use,  on  the  side  of  attack.  The 
Japanese  officials,  first  of  Simoda,  and  after- 
wards others  delegated  from  the  capital,  bent 
every  resource  of  subtlety  and  finesse,  to  get  it 
out  of  his  hands  and  leave  him  where  he  was,  at 
an  outer  post.  This  on  the  side  of  the  defence, 
These  two  parties,  pitted  against  each  other, 
under  every  possible  form  of  courtesy,  sought  a 
diplomatic  victory,  — entrance  into  Yeddo  and 
a treaty  being  the  prizes,  if  won  by  the  Ameri- 
can ; and  a final  abandonment  of  a system  of  ex- 
clusion and  isolation,  with  all  their  traditional 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


245 


policy  in  regard  to  foreigners,  on  the  part  of  the 
Japanese,  the  bitter  fruit  to  them,  if  they  were 
defeated.” 

After  most  vexatious  delays,  Mr.  Harris  was 
at  last  permitted  to  go  to  Yeddo,  where  he  spent 
several  months  framing  a treaty.  Having  pre- 
vailed upon  the  Tycoon  and  his  ministers  to 
yield  to  his  demands,  he  found  himself  again  on 
the  point  of  defeat  in  consequence  of  a combina- 
tion formed  by  the  hereditary  princes  and  daimios. 

Having  received  a promise  that  in  the  course 
of  a few  months  the  treaty  should  be  formally 
concluded,  he  returned  to  Simoda. 

A very  short  time  after  this,  the  allied  armies 
of  England  and  France  gained  a complete  victory 
over  the  Chinese,  and  extorted  from  them  a 
treaty  £ £ opening  the  whole  length  and  breadth 
of  the  empire,  all  the  navigable  rivers,  and  the 
gates  of  Pekin,  nearly  as  hermetically  sealed  to 
foreigners  as  Yeddo  itself  had  been  for  the  last 
three  centuries.” 

The  United  States  frigate  Mississippi  proceeded 
at  once  to  Simoda  to  communicate  this  interest- 
ing item  of  news  to  Mr.  Harris.  It  was  just 
what  he  needed,  and  he  hastened  again  to  Yeddo. 
Alcock’s  account  of  the  result,  is  ap  follows : 
“The  Imperial  commissioners  were  despatched  to 


246 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


meet  him  (that  is,  Mr.  Harris).  ‘What  news 
is  this  ? ’ ‘ Treaties  have  been  signed  with  four  of 
the  greatest  powers  of  the  West,  after  the 
destruction  of  the  Chinese  batteries,  by  the  Eng- 
lish and  French.  The  same  four  powers  will  in 
another  month  be  knocking  at  the  gates  of 
Yeddo.  Do  you  wish  to  lose  all  the  advantages 
for  which  you  have  labored  and  risked  so  much  ? ’ 
‘ No!’  ‘ Very  well,  then,  conclude  without  de- 
lay your  treaty  with  the  United  States,  already 
drafted,  agreed  to,  and  signed  on  both  sides. 
Give  it  formal  execution,  and  thus  secure  your- 
selves from  less  moderate  demands,  which  may 
within  the  month  be  urged  by  other  powers, 
backed  with  imposing  squadrons.  ’ And  the  dates 
were  filled  in  accordingly,  and  the  treaty  for- 
mally executed  on  board  the  ‘ Powhatan,’  on 
the  third  day  from  Mr.  Harris’  arrival. 

“ Throughout  the  negotiations,  apparently 
single-handed,  and  without  any  material  support 
from  his  government,  the  American  diplomatic 
agent  thus  surmounted  all  difficulties,  and  proved 
himself  fully  equal  to  the  occasion.  How  such 
success  was  secured,  with  the  knowledge  since 
attained,  it  is  easy  to  see ; but  it  detracts  noth- 
ing from  the  credit  due  to  the  strategic  skill  with 
which  the  negotiator  turned  the  weakness  of  the 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


247 


Japanese,  the  strength  of  his  neighbors,  and 
even  his  own  want  of  material  support  from  the 
government  he  represented,  all  equally  to  ac- 
count, for  the  success  of  his  mission.  Where 
others  might  have  seen  motives  of  discourage- 
ment, he  found  all  the  elements  of  victory.” 

It  is  a sad  fact  that  the  consequences  of  yield- 
ing to  the  pressure  of  necessity,  and  concluding 
the  American  treaty,  were  most  disastrous  to  all 
who  participated  in  it.  The  Tycoon  was  assas- 
sinated, and  the  ministers,  and  even  inferior  offi- 
cers, such  as  secretaries  and  interpreters,  were 
either  killed  or  sent  into  banishment. 

But  it  was  now  too  late  to  attempt  any  retro- 
grade policy,  and  in  quick  succession,  the  Japan- 
ese were  obliged  to  conclude  treaties  with  Eng- 
land, France,  Russia,  and  I know  not  how  many 
smaller  powers.  “ It  fairly  rained  treaties.” 

We  Americans  have  rather  flattered  ourselves 
that  we  are  the  “favored  nation”  in  Japan,  and 
the  delusion,  if  it  is  such,  is  so  pleasant  that  we 
scarcely  care  to  be  disabused  of  it.  We  are  cer- 
tainly under  great  obligations  to  his  excellency, 
Mr.  Harris,  for  his  fearlessness  and  determina- 
tion, as  well  as  his  diplomacy,  under  circum- 
stances as  trying  as  can  well  be  imagined. 

The  government  of  Japan  is  a very  compli- 


248 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


cated  one,  and  it  seems  that  foreigners,  even 
those  well  situated  for  investigating  it,  had  formed 
very  erroneous  impressions  concerning  it.  I do 
not  understand  it  well  enough  to  attempt  a 
description,  nor  would  it  be  exactly  in  place  here. 
There  seems  to  have  been,  ever  since  the  open- 
ing of  the  empire  to  foreigners,  and  perhaps 
before,  a constant  succession  of  revolutions  and 
counter-revolutions.  Whether  the  chief  cause  of 
these  disturbances  has  been  the  desire  on  the 
part  of  some  to  introduce  a more  liberal  policy, 
and  to  inaugurate  a new  era  of  progress,  I can- 
not say.  Progressive  measures,  I know,  are  very 
repugnant  to  the  more  conservative  members  of 
the  government,  who  regard  them  as  “fraught 
with  danger  to  the  stability  of  the  empire;  ” as 
perhaps  indeed  they  are. 

It  was  in  the  summer  of  1858  that  the  Amer- 
ican treaty  was  finally  concluded.  Two  years 
later,  when  we  went  to  Japan,  an  important  and 
lucrative  foreign  trade  had  already  been  estab- 
lished, and  settlements  had  been  formed  at 
Nagisaki,  Kanagawa,  and  Hakodadi.  The  lat- 
ter of  these  places  I have  never  visited,  but,  from 
accounts  of  others,  I think  it  must  be  rather 
dreary  and  desolate,  compared  with  some  more 
southern  localities. 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


249 


Kanagawa,  which  is  only  seventeen  miles  dis- 
tant from  Yeddo,  was  a small  village,  important 
only  as  offering  a good  anchorage,  and  being  in 
close  proximity  to  the  capital.  Its  situation 
upon  the  Tocado  [the  main  road  which  runs 
through  the  empire,  and  is  much  frequented  by 
daimios  and  their  suites  going  to  or  returning 
from  Yeddo]  made  it  so  objectionable  to  the 
natives  as  the  site  for  a foreign  town,  that  for- 
eigners were,  after  a short  time,  obliged  to  remove 
to  Yokohama,  — a retired  spot  across  the  bay, 
two  and  a half  miles  distant  by  water,  and  four 
and  a half  by  land.  While  we  were  in  J apan, 
the  American  consul  and  missionaries  were  still 
residing  in  Kanagawa,  though  most  of  the  resi- 
dents and  the  other  consuls  had  already  left 
there.  The  mercantile  community  consisted 
chiefly  of  branch  establishments  from  large  firms 
in  Shanghai  and  Hong-kong,  and  also  a rapidly 
increasing  native  population. 

Soon  after  the  “Challenger”  anchored  in 
Yeddo  Bay,  Mr.  Nevius  went  on  shore,  first  to 
Yokohama,  and  afterwards  to  Kanagawa,  where 
he  had  no  difficulty  in  finding  our  missionary 
friends.  Towards  evening,  Dr.  Hepburn  and  he 
came  off  in  a native  boat,  for  little  Freddie  and 
me,  and  took  us  to  his  house. 


250 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


We  found  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Hepburn  nicely 
settled  in  a temple,  which  had  been  repaired 
and  arranged  so  that  it  was  both  comfortable  and 
pleasant.  Rev.  S.  R.  Brown  and  family  lived 
in  the  same  compound,  in  a house  belonging  to 
the  temple.  Another  family,  for  some  time  con- 
nected with  a small  Baptist  organization  in  the 
United  States,  occupied  a little  house  in  one  cor- 
ner of  the  same  enclosure.  Dr.  Hepburn’s 
“temple”  was  very  unlike  buildings  for  similar 
purposes  in  China,  being  much  smaller,  and  of  a 
lighter  construction.  A long,  covered  passage- 
way led  from  it  to  Mr.  Brown’s  house,  which 
was  a large,  low  building,  very  irregular  in  de- 
sign, with  little  alleys  leading  through  it  in  dif- 
ferent directions.  It  was  a poor  old  place 
when  they  went  there ; but  a few  repairs  and 
foreign  furniture  quite  changed  its  appearance; 
while  the  extensive  garden  surrounding  it  gave 
it  a pleasantly  rural  and  sequestered  air.  I 
think  they  must  have  been  sorry  when  obliged 
to  leave  there  and  go  over  to  Yokohama  to  live. 

Dwelling-houses,  shops,  and  also  the  temples 
are  all  built  rather  low,  — very  seldom,  I be- 
lieve, having  more  than  one  story.  They  have 
wooden  frames,  very  securely  joined  together, 
but  the  walls  are  only  laths,  or  light  pieces  of 


• VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


251 


wood,  filled  in  with  some  kind  of  mortar.  Houses 
of  the  poorer  class  are  usually  covered  with 
thatch,  but  those  of  the  better  sort  have  long, 
sloping  tile  roofs,  — I think  not  so  pretty  as 
some  we  have  seen  in  China.  It  is  necessary 
that  buildings  should  be  of  some  such  style,  as 
earthquakes  are  very  common,  and  every  few 
years  the  J apanese  anticipate  having  their  dwell- 
ings shaken  down.  Heavy  stones  and  bricks 
tumbling  about  one’s  head  would  not  be  agree- 
able, nor,  I should  fancy,  would  the  heavy  tiles 
or  timbers  which  are  now  used.  I think,  in  a 
country  where  earthquakes  are  so  common,  sim- 
ple tents  would  he  admirable,  as  they  could  do 
little  harm,  no  matter  how  violently  shaken. 
However,  there  is  nothing  so  fearful  but  that 
people  get  used  to  it.  In  J apan  we  do  not  fear 
earthquakes,  as  I had  imagined  I should.  “ Hid 
you  feel  that  ? ” some  one  cries.  ££  Yes,  of  course 
I did;  a good  shake,  was  it  not?”  When  a 
wrench,  unusually  strong,  causes  the  timbers  to 
sway  and  creak,  people  usually  feel  like  rushing 
out  of  doors,  — though,  even  then,  such  as  are 
particularly  stoical,  sit  still,  to  see  if  more  are  to 
follow.  It  is  singular  to  notice  how  differently 
persons  are  affected  by  the  strange  and  inexpres- 
sible sensation  of  the  earth  trembling  and  quiv- 


252 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


ering,  or  shaking,  as  it  does  in  an  earthquake, 
be  it  ever  so  slight.  Yeddo  seems  to  have  been 
singularly  unfortunate,  having  been,  I do  not 
know  how  many  times,  partially  destroyed  by 
earthquakes  and  the  fires  which  invariably  ac- 
company them. 

For  several  weeks  after  reaching  Kanagawa, 
we  boarded  with  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Hepburn,  at 
Jo-bu-ts-gee,  as  their  temple  was  called,  having 
apartments  on  one  side  of  the  dining  room,  cor- 
responding with  their  parlor,  which  was  opposite. 
All  partitions  in  our  houses  were  the  usual  native 
sliding-screens,  which,  being  simply  paper  pasted 
over  a kind  of  lattice,  while  they  screen  from 
sight,  do  not  prevent  the  transmission  of  sounds ; 
so  that,  without  desiring  it,  persons  are  con- 
stantly in  danger  of  overhearing  conversations 
not  intended  for  them.  These  paper  partitions 
are  very  pretty,  and  sometimes  also  convenient, 
as,  when  larger  rooms  are  required,  they  can  be 
shoved  to  one  side,  leaving* a large  open  space. 
For  a long  while  Sabbath  services  where  held  at 
Dr.  Hepburn’s ; and,  by  thus  removing  the 
screens,  a room  sufficiently  large  and  very  pleas- 
ant was  secured.  Before  our  arrival,  Mr.  Brown 
had  preached  regularly  every  Lord's  day,  but 
afterwards  he  and  Mr.  Nevius  alternated.  The 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


253 


service  was  subsequently  removed  to  Yokohama, 
as  more  convenient  for  most  foreign  residents. 
It  was  well  attended,  by,  it  seemed  to  me,  a 
larger  proportion  of  the  merchants  and  civilians 
than  is  common  in  China. 

Missionaries  and  other  foreign  settlers  were, 
in  those  days,  much  thrown  together,  and  a cor- 
dial and  pleasant  state  of  feeling  existed  among 
them.  Perhaps  the  consciousness  we  all  felt  of 
insecurity  and  danger,  may  have  been  one  bond 
of  union  and  sympathy;  while  another  reason 
for  such  pleasant  social  relations  lay  in  the  fact 
that  the  first  missionaries  were  for  the  most 
part,  persons  well  calculated  to  command  the 
respect  and  affection  of  those  with  whom  they 
came  in  contact.  E.  M.  Dorr,  Esq.,  the  United 
States  consul,  was  very  kind  and  obliging,  and 
gave  the  missionaries  much  assistance  in  securing 
residences  and  in  various  other  ways.  His  Ex- 
cellency, Mr.  Harris,  from  the  first,  also  exhib- 
ited a kindly  interest  in  them  and  their  success, 
visiting  them  at  their  homes  and  inviting  them 
to  the  American  Legation  at  Yeddo. 

Very  soon  after  reaching  Japan  we  com- 
menced the  study  of  the  language,  not  perhaps 
with  the  energy  and  interest  we  would  have  felt 
had  we  been  certain  of  living  there  permanently, 


254 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


but  with  such  good  success  as  to  enable  us,  in  a 
few  weeks  or  months,  to  have  a sufficient  smat- 
tering of  it  to  use  in  necessary  intercourse  with 
the  natives.  Our  knowledge  of  Chinese  was  of 
some  assistance,  as,  though  the  two  languages 
are  entirely  separate,  and  very  different,  Japan- 
ese scholars  also  understand  a certain  amount 
of  Chinese.  When  sore  pressed  for  the  meaning 
of  a word,  my  teacher  would  turn  to  it  in  a 
Chinese  dictionary,  or  write  it  himself.  If  I 
did  not  recognize  it,  I would  carry  it  to  my  hus- 
band, and  among  us  we  usually  managed  to 
solve  the  difficulty  without  applying  to  Dr.  or 
Mrs.  Hepburn,  who  had  already  made  consider- 
able progress  in  the  language. 

Although  Mr.  Nevius  for  a few  weeks  gave 
some  time  daily  to  the  study  of  Japanese,  he 
was  principally  engaged  in  his  Chinese  work  on 
Theology,  which  under  such  favorable  circum- 
stances progressed  rapidly. 

Had  my  health  been  better  I should  have  en- 
joyed the  study  of  this  new  tongue,  exceedingly. 
It  is  a beautiful  language,  — capable  of  great 
force  of  expression,  and  with  an  endless  variety, 
in  fact  a most  unnecessary  variety,  in  its  forms 
and  changes.  It  is  much  more  musical  than 
Chinese  j but  whether  it  is  also  “ more  difficult  ” 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


255 


as  has  been  asserted,  I hive  my  doubts.  I sus- 
pect that  one  reason  for  its  having  been  thought 
so  is  that  those  who  have  acquired  it,  after 
having  mastered  the  Chinese,  must  necessarily 
have  done  so  at  a somewhat  advanced  age  ; which 
would  account,  at  least  in  a measure,  for  its 
proving  to  them  more  difficult  of  acquisition. 
My  principal  reason  for  not  crediting  the  asser- 
tion alluded  to  is  that  I cannot  possibly  conceive 
of  anything  involving  more  hard  study  to  ac- 
quire than  the  written  character  of  China.  It 
is,  however,  possible  that  the  spoken  language 
may  present  greater  difficulties  than  are  found 
in  some  few  of  the  colloquials  of  China. 

The  Japanese  have  three  different  forms  of 
writing  their  language.  They  ha%e  two  sepa- 
rate alphabets,  called  the  Katakana  and  the  Hira- 
kana ; and  they  also  use  the  Chinese  character 
either  by  itself  or  in  combination  with  their 
own  letters.  A page  of  a Japanese  book  pre- 
sents a strange  medley ; cursive,  irregular 
strokes,  chasing  each  other  down  the  column, 
here  of  one  kind  and  there  of  another,  with  occa- 
sional Chinese  characters,  introduced  apparently 
only  to  give  an  air  of  respectability  to  the  other- 
wise unmeaning-looking  composition.  A well 
written  or  printed  Chinese  book,  with  its  elabo- 


256 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


rate  and  intricate  symbols,  is  calculated  to  im- 
press a novice  with  the  idea  that  the  subject 
treated  of  must  be  somewhat  recondite,  to  re- 
quire such  a difficult  style  of  writing  to  express 
it.  But,  at  a first  glance,  one  almost  wonders 
whether  the  irregular  though  simple  letters  of  a 
Japanese  book  can  be  made  to  convey  any 
weighty  ideas  whatever. 

There  is  an  extensive  literature  in  Japanese; 
while  many  of  the  books  used  in  schools  and 
read  by  the  more  educated  are  in  the  Chinese 
character.  It  is  my  impression  that  the  women 
in  Japan  are  more  commonly  taught  to  read 
than  those  of  China  ; which  is  natural,  as  many 
of  the  books  in  circulation  are  written  in  the 
simplest  style,  which  is  easy  to  learn  when  com- 
pared with  the  Chinese  character. 

Sign-boards  and  inscriptions  in  various  places, 
the  names  and  headings  of  books,  etc.,  etc.,  are,  I 
believe,  usually  in  Chinese  ; while  the  works  of 
Confucius  are  almost  as  well  known  here  as  in 
the  land  of  his  birth,  and  are  held  in  the  highest 
veneration.  While  many  foreigners  have  an 
idea  that  the  Japanese  are  vastly  superior  to  the 
Chinese,  their  own  estimate  of  themselves  is  dif- 
ferent. They  look  up  to  the  Chinese  as  their  in- 
structors and  models ; and  surely  they  ought  to 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


257 


be  able  to  form  a juster  estimate  of  their  relative 
positions  than  others  can.  That  they  do  thus 
regard  them  is  evident  from  the  fact  that  they 
have  adopted  from  China,  not  only  the  written 
language  and  literature,  but  also  a whole  system 
of  ethics. 

There  is  a certain  quickness  and  shrewdness, 
and  a readiness  to  learn  of  others,  in  which  the 
Chinese  compare  unfavorably  with  the  J apanese, 
but  in  most  respects  I think  our  staid  and  some- 
what too  conservative  Chinese  may  claim  the 
pre-eminence. 

Some  of  the  early  visitors  in  Japan  were  im- 
pressed by  the  supposed  purity  and  morality  of 
the  inhabitants.  I wish,  indeed,  that  they  had 
not  been  mistaken ; but  that  they  were  so,  most 
grievously,  is  well  known  to  every  one  who  has 
resided  in  the  country  even  a short  time.  There 
is  a lamentable  absence  of  modesty  in  Jap- 
anese females.  On  one  summer  afternoon’s  ride 
I saw  two  entirely  nude  women,  the  one  in  her 
bath-tub  beside  an  open  window,  another  sitting 
unconcerned  on  a bench  near  the  house.  From 
a bundle  of  clothing  at  her  side,  I inferred  that 
she  had  just  completed  her  ablutions,  and  was 
about  making  her  toilet.  These  women  sat  ap- 
parently as  unconscious  of  impropriety  as  if 
17 


258 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


they  had  been  clad  with  ceremonious  precision. 
An  artist  desiring  to  make  a study  of  the  human 
form  divine  need  not  go  farther  than  Japan  for 
models.  In  the  warm  weather  many  men  in 
the  streets  have  no  clothing  except  a narrow 
strip  of  cloth  round  the  loins ; and  the  women 
also  are  slightly  clad  on  the  upper  parts  of  their 
bodies. 

It  would  be  very  pleasant  to  attribute  the 
custom  of  women  frequenting  the  public  baths 
with  persons  of  the  other  sex,  and  other  equally 
notorious  facts,  to  the  unconscious  simplicity 
of  their  innocent  natures ; but  stubborn  facts 
will  not  allow  this  easy  explanation.  I am  en- 
tirely unacquainted  _ with  females  of  the  upper 
classes  of  Japan  ; but  I presume  they  excel  their 
less  favored  sisters  in  the  domestic  virtues. 
There  as  elsewhere  poverty  and  vice  too  often 
go  together. 

It  was  for  a time  supposed  that  the  J apanese 
were  an  exceedingly  temperate  people ; while,  in 
fact,  intemperance  is  so  prevalent  that  Dr. 
Hepburn  speaks  of  them  as  a “nation  of  drunk- 
ards.” In  this  vice  at  least,  says  Sir  R.  Alcock, 
“ The  Japanese  have  nothing  to  learn  from  for- 
eigners ; that  certainly  cannot  be  laid  to  our 
charge.  They  are  as  much  given  to  drunken- 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


259 


ness  as  any  of  the  northern  races  of  Europe,  as 
quarrelsome  as  the  worst,  and  far  more  danger- 
ous in  their  cups.”  There  is  a species  of  spir- 
ituous liquor  called  saki,  which  is  a common  drink. 
It  produces  an  effect  very  quickly,  rendering 
persons  who  have  taken  it  talkative  and  mis- 
chievous. There  was  nothing  which  we  feared 
more,  in  our  rides  and  rambles,  than  meeting  in- 
toxicated yaconins , as  the  two-sworded  gentry 
are  called ; and  even  the  peasantry,  who  are  at 
other  times  civil  and  well  disposed,  when  under 
the  influence  of  saki  are  quarrelsome  and  dan- 
gerous. 

But  notwithstanding  these  national  blemishes, 
and  others  besides,  which  I should  be  obliged  to 
mention  if  my  object  were  to  present  an  accurate 
analysis  of  the  Japanese  character,  they  have 
many  admirable  traits.  All  they  need,  or  at 
least  their  principal  want,  is  the  introduction 
of  a pure  Christianity.  Give  them  this,  and  it 
will  not  be  long  before  they  will  be  fairly  enti- 
tled to  take  their  place  among  the  most  highly 
civilized  nations  of  the  world. 

Had  Protestant  Christians  shown  the  same 
earnestness  and  perseverance  which  characterized 
the  early  Romanists,  perhaps  long  ere  this  the 
Bible  would  have  been  a well-known  book  in 


260 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Japan,  and,  by  the  beneficent  influence  which  in- 
variably emanates  therefrom,  would  have  given 
them  what  they  are  now  entirely  destitute  of,  — 
a knowledge  of  God ; would  have  corrected  the 
depraved  public  sentiment ; instilled  new  and  cor- 
rect views  of  the  sanctity  of  the  social  relations  ; 
have  taught  a juster  notion  of  the  value  of  hu- 
man life,  now  so  thoughtlessly  sacrificed ; in  fine, 
would  have  made  the  Japanese,  what  they  cer- 
tainly are  capable  of  being,  a noble  Christian 
nation. 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


261 


CHAPTER  X. 

VISIT  TO  JAPAN  — CONTINUED. 

A PEW  mornings  after  reaching  Japan,  there 
was  brought  to  us  from  Yeddo,  for  sale,  one  of 
the  prettiest  little  piebald  ponies  which  I ever 
saw.  I fancied  it  at  once ; and,  after  my  hus- 
band had  ridden  it  to  try  its  gait  and  disposition, 
he  bought  and  presented  it  to  me. 

I named  the  pretty  creature  Donald,  after  a 
little  boy  in  the  United  States.  He  was  very 
tiny,  and  not  very  strong ; was  spirited  though 
gentle,  with  a bright,  intelligent  eye,  and  arching 
neck,  and  such  a dainty,  thorough-bred  air  that  I 
scarcely  needed  to  be  told  that  he  had  been  a pet 
and  favorite  in  some  wealthy  family,  as  was  the 
case.  His  walk  was  rapid,  and  his  gait  so  easy 
that  I had  many  a long  country  ride  upon  hi3 
back,  while  still  too  weak  to  have  ridden  at  all 
upon  most  other  horses. 

Much  has  been  said  of  the  fine  roads  of  Japan, 
but  aside  from  the  Tocado,  the  imperial  road  to 


262 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


the  capital,  I saw  none  which  compared  at  all 
favorably  with  roads  in  Western  lands.  They 
are  wider  than  the  foot-paths  of  Southern  China, 
but,  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  and  to  so 
little  attention  being  given  them,  walking  is  at 
certain  seasons  quite  out  of  the  question,  and 
sometimes,  except  on  the  Tocado,  even  riding  on 
horseback  is  also  almost  impracticable. 

Soon  after  we  purchased  my  pony,  we  rode 
one  day,  in  company  with  Dr.  Hepburn  and 
several  others,  to  a beautiful  valley  near  Kana- 
gawa.  The  good  doctor  had  forgotten  that  the 
recent  rain  had  softened  the  roads,  and  so  before 
we  knew  it  we  found  ourselves  in  almost  a quag- 
mire. The  mud  was  so  deep  that  the  horses 
sank  in  almost  to  their  knees.  The  earth  was 
jet  black,  and  reminded  me  of  that  in  the  woods 
at  home,  or  of  the  black  “ muck  ” of  the  western 
prairies.  On  we  went,  sinking  deeper  and  deep- 
er in  this  “slough  of  despond,”  until  I became 
so  nervous  and  miserable  that  Mr.  Nevius  kindly 
turned  off  into  a little  path  which  beckoned  in- 
vitingly to  one  side ; while  the  more  courageous 
members  of  the  party  pressed  forward.  I do 
not  know  whether  their  perseverance  was  re- 
warded by  anything  more  charming  than  our 
quiet  ride  home.  We  picked  our  way  through 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


263 


the  narrow  paths  winding  here  and  there,  until, 
though  not  having  been  very  far  from  home,  we 
had  ridden  a sufficiently  long  distance. 

Another  evening  Mr.  Nevius  and  I,  accom- 
panied by  the  groom,  or  betto,  as  he  is  called, 
who  always  runs  at  the  side  of  the  horses,  or 
within  a short  distance  of  them,  started  out 
rather  early,  the  sun  being  obscured,  so  that  it 
was  pleasant  to  do  so.  After  passing  through 
the  town,  we  turned  up  a path  running  over  a 
hill,  and  soon  came  into  a retired  country  road 
lying  through  pine  woods,  with  so  much  under- 
growth that  we  had  frequently  to  push  away  the 
branches  from  in  front  of  us.  The  view  was 
very  changing,  — now  tall  trees,  then  again  low 
bushes,  then  cultivated  patches,  with  glimpses 
of  lovely  scenery  in  the  distance  and  at  our  sides. 
The  groom  was  our  guide ; but  we  were  not  sure 
that  he  knew  where  he  was  leading  us,  until  he 
brought  us  at  length  to  a temple  called  Bu-ken- 
zie,  where  we  had  been  before.  The  situation  of 
this  temple  is  delightful,  and  it  is  kept  perfectly 
clean  and  orderly.  The  walls  are  low,  and  the 
floors  matted.  The  timbers  and  woodwork  seemed 
particularly  fine.  We  dismounted,  and  sat  for 
a while  on  the  steps,  and  had  a drink  of  refresh- 
ingly cold  water.  We  noticed  the  groom  take  a 


264 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


dipper  of  water  and  throw  it  into  the  horses’ 
mouths,  not  to  drink,  but  merely  to  cool  them. 
They  were  used  to  it,  and  seemed  to  like  it  well. 
On  our  way  home,  passing  by  some  groups  of 
children,  they  called  out  to  us  “ Ohaiyo !”  pro- 
nouncing the  word  just  as  we  do  the  name  of  the 
“Buckeye  State”  of  America.  This  is  their 
usual  salutation ; but  shouting  it  out  in  such  q 
free  and  boisterous  manner  was  not  altogether  re- 
spectful. The  J apanese,  especially  the  children, 
frequently  accost  foreigners  with  several  other 
epithets  or  phrases,  not  very  agreeable  to  hear, 
such  as  baka,  fool ; to-jin , Chinaman ; jiki-jiki, 
quick,  quick  : and  even  ohaiyo , which  simply 
means  “good-morning,”  onata,  “you,”  or  yoka 
“good,”  when  used  in  this  way,  are  merely  in- 
excusable familiarities  or  impertinences,  which 
the  J apanese  would  never  presume  to  use  among 
themselves,  at  least  towards  their  superiors. 

The  country  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
Kanagawa  has  a mild  sort  of  beauty.  It  is  not 
nearly  so  wild  and  diversified  as  the  hilly  region 
back  from  Ningpo;  nor  does  it  equal  Hang-chow ; 
but  still  there  is  a freshness  and  softness  in  tho 
landscape  not  often  seen  elsewhere.  There,  as  in 
China,  you  see  many  indications  of  the  skill  of 
the  inhabitants  in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil. 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


265 


There  was  nothing  in  Japan  which  I admired 
more  than  its  trees  and  flowers.  The  latter  in- 
deed are  usually  almost  odorless,  but  they  are 
none  the  less  beautiful  to  look  upon. 

1 ‘ The  flora  of  this  district  (that  is,  near  Kana- 
gawa)  is  very  remarkable  (as  indeed  is  that  of 
the  whole  of  Japan)  for  the  great  abundance  of 
evergreens.  Four-fifths  of  the  plants  growing 
wild  in  this  neighborhood  belong  to  this  class,  so 
that  even  during  the  winter  months  the  country 
has  a clothed  and  cheerful  aspect.  The  assort- 
ment of  showy,  flowering  plants  is  not  so  great 
as  might  be  imagined ; but  for  this  the  abundance 
and  variety  of  foliage  fully  compensate.  The 
Japanese  are  great  amateur  gardeners.  Every 
cottage  of  any  size  has  its  garden  attached  to 
it.”  The  “camellia  japonica  ” is  very  com- 
mon ; oleanders,  hydrangeas,  wistaria,  and  many 
other  flowers  which  in  Western  lands  are  either 
very  rare,  or  hot-house  plants,  there  flourish  in 
the  open  air. 

The  trees  of  Japan  seemed  to  me  more  beauti- 
ful than  any  I had  ever  seen  elsewhere,  but  per- 
haps that  was  because  they  so  much  excelled  in 
variety  and  size  those  to  which  I had  been  ac- 
customed in  China.  Oaks,  pines,  maples,  and 
bamboos  are  only  a few  of  the  numerous  varie- 


266 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


ties  used  either  for  timber  or  for  shade  in  the 
vicinity  of  Kanagawa. 

I must  not  forget  to  mention  the  hedges,  which 
are  a noticeable  feature  of  the  country,  and 
which,  for  variety  and  beauty,  can  hardly  be 
equalled  elsewhere,  not  even  in  “old  England.” 
You  often  see  miserable  farmer  dwellings  sc 
prettily  enclosed  and  surrounded  as  to  produce, 
notwithstanding  their  own  ugliness,  a pleasing 
elfect.  “ Here  is  a low  hedge,  or  border  rather, 
made  of  the  tea-plant,  two  or  three  bushes  deep, 
and  growing  about  three  feet  high,  not  unlike 
the  ordinary  flowering  camellia,  of  which  it  is  a 
species.  Now  we  come  to  an  enclosure  fenced 
in  with  nectarines,  and  there  is  a hedge  of  pome- 
granate. Now  it  is  a tall,  close-twisted  fence  of 
cryptomeria,  while  over  that  porch  of  thatch 
the  wisteria  spreads,  with  insatiable  desire,  its 
far-reaching  arms,  to  be  covered  in  spring  with 
glorious  clusters  of  purple  flowers.” 

The  vegetables  of  Japan  are  so  numerous  that 
it  would  seem  as  if  in  this  department  little 
more  could  be  desired.  They  include  Irish  po- 
tatoes, sweet  potatoes,  peas,  beans,  carrots,  tur- 
nips, beets,  yams,  ginger,  the  egg-plant,  cucum- 
bers, leeks,  garlic,  etc.,  etc.,  an  almost  endless 
list.  But  there  was  no  vegetable  which  I liked 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


267 


better  than  young  bamboo  sprouts ; which,  cut 
in  slices,  boiled,  and  nicely  prepared  for  the 
table,  are  a real  delicacy.  This  is  also  eaten 
in  China. 

Rice,  cotton,  millet,  tobacco,  wheat,  etc.,  are 
also  extensively  grown. 

The  simple  enumeration  of  the  fruit-trees  of 
Japan,  as  of  China,  would  give  an  idea  of  deli- 
cious and  abundant  fruit,  while  the  fact  is  that 
practically  there  is  none  at  all  fit  to  be  eaten. 
The  varieties  are  poor,  and  that  miserable  prac- 
tice, so  common  in  China,  of  plucking  the  fruit 
while  it  is  still  quite  green,  also  prevails  there, 
so  that  we  scarcely  know  what  its  taste  would  be 
were  it  allowed  to  mature.  They  have  peaches, 
pears,  plums,  apricots,  persimmons,  oranges, 
lemons,  figs,  etc.,  etc.  The  grapes  of  Japan  are 
pretty  good ; and  so  also  are  some  kinds  of  mel- 
ons. The  absence  of  good  fruit  is  not  owing  to 
natural  causes,  for  both  climate  and  soil  are 
thought  well  adapted  to  it,  but  rather  to  neglect 
in  securing  good  varieties,  and  want  of  skill  in 
cultivation. 

It  would  seem  as  if,  among  so  many  beautiful 
trees  and  flowers,  there  ought  to  be  numerous 
birds  enlivening  the  landscape  by  their  melody ; 
but,  strange  to  say,  there  are  comparatively  few 


268 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


of  any  sort,  and  scarcely  any  which  sing.  The 
forests  would  be  noiseless  did  not  the  insects  sup- 
ply the  void  by  a chorus  as  loud  if  not  as  sweet 
as  the  songs  of  many  birds. 

There  is  an  abundance  of  wild  game  in  the 
region  of  Yeddo.  In  passing  through  paddy- 
fields,  or  near  them,  we  frequently  come  close 
upon  great  numbers  of  white  and  gray  storks 
four  or  five  feet  tall.  They,  as  well  as  the  wild 
fowl,  are  very  tame,  as  they  may  well  be,  feel- 
ing quite  secure  of  their  lives,  go  where  they 
may.  There  is  a stringent  law  forbidding  the 
killing  of  birds  or  animals  within  twenty  miles 
of  Yeddo,  — an  exception  being  made,  I fancy, 
allowing  the  slaughter  of  the  human  species, 
foreigners  at  least,  whenever  a Japanese  feels  in- 
clined to  try  his  skill  as  a marksman,  or  to  test 
the  temper  of  his  sword. 

This  law  against  shooting  has  been  most  an- 
noying to  the  foreign  settlers,  especially  the 
English,  who  again  and  again  have  violated  it  ; 
in  some  cases  receiving  not  only  from  the  J apan- 
ese,  but  from  their  own  officials,  almost  too  severe 
a punishment  for  so  trifling  an  offence. 

It  was  my  invariable  custom  while  in  Japan, 
whenever  I was  well  enough,  after  spending  the 
day  in  study  or  other  employments,  to  go  out 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


269 


towards  evening  with  my  husband  for  about  two 
hours’  recreation.  We  occasionally  crossed  the 
bay  to  Yokohama,  to  visit  or  shop,  and  sometimes 
rode  off,  in  quiet  country  paths,  over  the  hills  or 
through  the  valleys.  Then  again  by  ourselves, 
or  in  company  with  others,  we  would  take  a can- 
ter on  the  wide,  home-like  Tocado,  — home-like, 
however,  only  as  regards  the  comparatively  wide, 
smooth  road.  The  scenes  we  meet  there  could 
never  be  found  in  other  lands,  either  in  city  or 
country. 

A ride  on  the  Tocado  gives  a striking  glimpse 
of  Japanese  every-day  life.  The  houses  in  sum- 
mer are  so  open  that  in  passing  in  front  we  can 
see  quite  through  them.  They  certainly  are 
much  cleaner  than  Chinese  houses  of  the  same 
class.  There  is  a singular  absence  of  furniture. 
No  chairs,  sofas,  tables,  or  bedsteads  are  used. 
A low  stand,  perhaps  not  a foot  high,  some 
dishes  of  china,  or  lacquer,  and  a few  trays, 
besides  some  simple  cooking  utensils,  seem  about 
all  a Japanese  family  requires  for  house-keeping. 
The  matting  which  covers  the  floor  is  stretched 
over  straw  mattresses  about  six  feet  long,  and 
three  or  four  wide  ; and  these  form  a soft,  pleasant 
bed,  upon  which  the  natives  sleep  at  night, 
wrapped  in  thick,  wadded  quilts,  their  heads  rest- 


270 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


ing  upon  the  strangest  little  pillows  made  of 
wood,  with  only  a tiny  cushion  to  support  the 
head  or  neck. 

Most  of  the  road  from  Kanagawa  to  Yeddo 
is  lined  with  houses,  which,  in  some  cases,  are 
grouped  into  little  hamlets,  in  others  are  much 
scattered.  There  are  numerous  trees  shading 
the  road,  which  lies  most  of  the  way  near  the 
water’s  edge.  The  whole  distance  is  thronged 
either  with  pedestrians,  or  travellers  on  horse- 
back. You  meet  also  numerous  pack-horses 
and  porters,  carrying  heavy  loads.  The  cango 
is  a kind  of  conveyance,  not  at  all  equal  for  ease 
and  convenience  to  a common  Chinese  sedan. 
It  consists  of  a semicircular  piece  of  wicker 
work,  the  ends  of  which  are  swung  from  a long 
pole.  The  occupant,  having  spread  a cotton  quilt 
or  some  garment  in  the  bottom,  stows  himself 
away,  in  a posture  so  bent  and  uncomfortable 
that  I should  think  it  would  soon  become  unen- 
durable. The  norimon  is  better  ; but  it  is  by  no 
means  pleasant.  It  resembles  an  Indian  palan- 
quin, rather  than  a Chinese  sedan,  and  is  carried 
usually,  perhaps  always,  by  four  bearers ; while 
the  lighter  and  more  unpretending  cango  has  but 
two. 

The  greatest  difficulty  in  riding  on  the  Tocado 


VISIT  TO  JAPA2T . 


271 


is  the  risk  we  run  of  knocking  down,  or  going 
against,  foot  travellers  and  children,  who  swarm 
on  every  side.  The  groom  usually  sees  to  this, 
and  clears  the  road  ; and  we  were  always  strictly 
careful  to  ride  slowly  where  the  road  was  crowd- 
ed. Some  of  the  “fast  young  men  ” from  Ka- 
nagawa,  dashing  recklessly  along,  three  or  four 
abreast,  often  come  in  too  close  proximity  to  per- 
sons on  foot,  who,  however,  usually  manage  to 
get  out  of  the  way  of  their  horses’  hoofs.  One 
evening,  as  Mrs.  Hepburn  was  riding  my  Donald 
in  company  with  Mr.  Nevius,  they  met  such  a 
party.  As  they  were  endeavoring  to  slacken 
their  speed  somewhat  in  passing,  the  horse  of  one 
of  the  gentlemen  fell,  pitching  its  rider  directly 
over  its  head  into  a pond  of  muddy  water,  seri- 
ously injuring  his  spotless  white  trowsers,  and 
his  feelings,  no  doubt,  still  more. 

Here  and  there  on  the  Tocado  are  guard- 
houses, with  yaconins  in  waiting.  Whenever  we 
approached  these  places  the  groom  was  sure  to 
come  up  and  place  his  hand  upon  the  bridle  of 
one  of  our  horses ; not  for  our  protection,  but  to 
show  that  he  belonged  to  us ; so  that  the  yaconins 
would  not  molest  him.  The  abject,  cringing 
manner  with  which  the  common  people  approach 
these  lordly  two-sworded  men  is  really  pitiable. 


272 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


They  sometimes  almost  crawl ; while  the  yaco- 
nins  appear  to  receive  this  homage  as  only  their 
natural  right. 

One  evening  while  we  were  staying  at  Dr. 
Hepburn’s,  I sat  on  the  steps  in  front  of  the 
house,  awaiting  the  return  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Hep- 
burn, who  had  been  at  Yokohama.  They  came 
in  just  before  dark.  Mrs.  Hepburn’s  first  excla- 
mation as  I met  her  was,  “ I have  been  struck  ! ” 
And  indeed  she  had  been  struck  a blow,  so  vio- 
lent, that  had  it  fallen  upon  her  head,  as  had 
evidently  been  intended,  she  would  not  have 
been  there  to  tell  us  of  it.  As  they  were  pass- 
ing through  a narrow  street,  very  near  home, 
some  person  coming  from  behind,  with  a long 
bamboo  or  a heavy  pole,  had  aimed  a blow  at 
Mrs.  Hepburn’s  head.  It  fell  upon  her  shoulder, 
however,  doing  no  other  damage  than  giving  her 
a severe  bruise  and  a fright.  Her  friends  were 
all,  of  course,  much  excited,  and  very  indignant 
at  such  a cowardly  and  unprovoked  attack.  A 
reward  was  offered  for  the  arrest  of  the  offender  ; 
but  I think  he  was  never  discovered.  This  inci- 
dent confirmed  us  in  the  opinion  that  our  lives 
were  altogether  insecure.  In  fact,  we  had  long 
been  painfully  aware  of  this.  Every  few  months 
from  the  time  of  foreigners  first  settling  in  Ja- 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


273 


pan,  some  fearful  tragedy  had  been  enacted. 
The  first  murder  of  foreigners  was  that  of  two 
or  three  Russians  from  a Russian  squadron  lying 
in  the  harbor.  An  officer  and  two  men  had 
gone  on  shore  early  in  the  evening  to  make  some 
purchases,  and  in  returning  to  their  boat,  while 
passing  through  a principal  street,  they  were  at- 
tacked, and  the  officer,  and  at  least  one  of  the 
men,  were  killed.  So  many  Japanese  were  in 
the  immediate  neighborhood  that  it  would  have 
been  easy  for  them  to  avert  this  terrible  catas- 
trophe, had  they  desired  to  do  so. 

During  the  month  of  January,  a few  weeks 
before  we  left  Japan,  and  while  we  were  keep- 
ing house  in  a little  temple  quite  removed  from 
the  other  mission  compound,  and  in  a very 
exposed  situation,  had  any  one  chosen  to  molest 
us,  there  occurred  another  sad  event,  the  death 
of  Mr.  Hewskin,  Mr.  Harris’s  interpreter.  He 
was  returning  on  horseback,  late  one  evening, 
from  the  Russian  Legation.  He  had  an  escort 
of  three  mounted  yaconins  and  several  men  car- 
rying lanterns,  yet,  notwithstanding  these  pre- 
cautions, he  was  waylaid  and  wounded  so 
severely  that  he  died  a short  time  afterwards. 
A Romish  priest,  connected  with  the  French 
consulate,  arrived  in  time  to  administer  “ex- 
18 


274 


OTJR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


treme  unction,”  and  Mr.  Hewskin,  I believe, 
expired  in  his  arms.  The  assassins  were  never 
brought  to  punishment;  indeed,  I am  not  sure 
that  they  were  even  known ; certainly  not  by 
foreigners. 

Mr.  Hewskin  had  been  with  Mr.  Harris  since 
his  first  residence  in  J apan,  and  his  assistance  to 
him  and  other  foreigners  had  been  invaluable. 
It  was  also  supposed  that  he  was  a great  favorite 
with  the  Japanese.  What,  then,  could  have  in- 
duced any  one  to  perform  so  cruel,  yet  cowardly, 
an  act  ? 

Soon  after  this  murder,  all  the  foreign  min- 
isters, except  Mr.  Harris,  left  Yeddo  for  a time. 
He  certainly  showed  great  fearlessness  in  re- 
maining, as  well  as  remarkable  confidence  in  the 
natives,  whom  he  professed  to  believe  regretted 
the  assassination  of  his  secretary,  and  entertained 
only  kind  intentions  towards  himself.  Whether 
his  confidence  was  misplaced  or  not,  I am  not 
capable  of  judging. 

I have  mentioned  incidentally  our  house- 
keeping. After  we  had  decided  to  remain 
some  time  in  J apan,  as  Mrs.  Hepburn  found  the 
duties  of  caring  for  so  large  a family  too  onerous, 
we  removed  to  a litttle  temple  called  So-ko-jee. 
It  stood  at  the  foot  of  a very  steep  hill,  upon  the 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


275 


top  of  which  was  a “ lookout,”  with  an  extended 
view  far  over  the  hay,  and  the  surrounding  town 
and  country.  The  temple  was  not  at  all  pretty 
externally,  but  within  was  very  cosey  and  com- 
fortable. Two  gentlemen,  who  had  previously 
occupied  the  house,  kindly  left  us  some  articles 
of  furniture ; and  what  else  we  needed  for  the 
short  time  we  expected  to  remain  we  had  little 
difficulty  in  gathering  together,  or  disposing  of 
when  we  left.  We  had  only  the  native  matting 
on  the  floors.  This  would  be  a nice  substitute 
for  carpets,  were  it  more  durable. 

As  I look  back  to  those  pleasant  days  in 
So-ko-gee,  they  seem  to  me  very  like  other  days 
away  back  in  my  childhood,  when  I used  to 
experience  unalloyed  happiness  in  “playing  keep 
house.”  Japanese  houses  all  have  a kind  of 
“play-house  ” (not  theatrical)  look,  and  our 
temple,  for  some  reason,  seemed  particularly 
of  this  character.  Its  low  walls,  paper  parti- 
tions, and  white  matted  floors  were  very  unlike 
dwelling-houses,  either  in  China,  or  at  home. 
It  was,  however,  quite  large  enough  for  our  use, 
having  a parlor,  dining-room,  and  study,  with 
two  sleeping-rooms,  and  one  or  two  small  apart- 
ments used  as  a kitchen  and  servants’  room. 
The  kitchen  was  inconveniently  far  from  the 


276 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


sitting-room,  but  that  did  not  prevent  my  run- 
ning to  it  many  times  in  the  course  of  -the  day. 
At  no  other  period  during  my  missionary  life  did 
I allow  myself  to  give  so  much  time  to  domestic 
pursuits.  Having  only  native  servants,  who 
knew  nothing  of  foreign  cooking,  I was  obliged 
to  do  most  of  this  myself.  Although  it  was 
rather  too  much  of  a tax  upon  my  limited 
strength,  I enjoyed  it,  and  was  glad  of  the  expe- 
rience I then  acquired.  Whenever  any  point  in 
the  culinary  art  completely  baffled  my  knowledge 
or  ingenuity,  or  when,  my  faithful  “ cook-book  ” 
was  unable  to  guide  me,  I had  only  to  apply  to 
my  kind  friends  at  J o-bu-ts-gee,  for  aid  and  as- 
sistance, which  were  always  most  cheerfully 
given. 

With  the  exception  of  milk  and  butter,  — and 
the  latter  we  could  generally  procure  from  the 
foreign  settlement,  or  the  ships,  — we  had  an 
abundance  of  good,  wholesome  food.  Oysters, 
clams,  and  prawns,  of  unusually  large  size  and 
fine  quality,  could  be  obtained  at  any  time,  as 
also  fowls,  eggs,  and  vegetables  in  profusion. 
For  meats,  with  the  exceptions  mentioned,  we 
were  dependent  upon  the  foreign  market  at  Yo- 
kohama. The  natives  of  Japan,  like  the  Chinese, 
live  mostly  upon  rice,  which  is  of  an  excellent 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


277 


quality ; native  wheat  flour  is  also  pretty  good, 
though  not  by  any  means  equal  to  that  of  the 
United  States. 

Our  servants  could  not  speak  a word  of  Eng- 
lish, but  while  boarding  at  Dr.  Hepburn’s  we 
had  acquired  enough  of  their  language  to  get  on 
without  much  difficulty. 

One  day  while  I was  at  work  in  my  kitchen, 
I heard  a child,  in  a shed  which  stood  in  one  cor- 
ner of  our  garden,  and  only  a few  feet  from 
where  I then  was,  crying  very  bitterly,  as  if  in 
pain.  I inquired  of  the  servant  what  was  the 
matter,  and  he  replied  very  carelessly,  “ Oh,  that 
is  nothing ; the  child  has  small-pox  l ” — seem- 
ing to  regard  that  disease  as  we  in  America  would 
measles,  or  other  comparatively  slight  ailments. 
However,  I had  so  often  in  China  been  ex- 
posed to  small-pox,  that  I was  not  particularly 
alarmed  at  hearing  that  we  had  a case  in  such 
close  proximity. 

I regretted  very  much  that  while  in  Japan  I 
had  so  little  opportunity  to  become  acquainted 
with  the  native  women.  With  a few  exceptions, 
I was  never  in  any  private  dwellings,  so  that  I 
know  little  from  personal  observation  of  their 
home  life  and  customs.  Many  women  called 
from  time  to  time,  just  from  curiosity ; but  my 


278 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


knowledge  of  the  language  was  too  slight  for 
more  than  a very  simple  conversation. 

Young  girls,  both  in  China  and  Japan,  are 
very  good-looking ; some  of  them  really  pretty. 
But  in  both  countries  they  fade  early.  In  Ja- 
pan they  have  adopted  the  strange  custom  of 
painting  or  dyeing  the  teeth  of  all  married  wom- 
en, which  makes  them  hideous.  I cannot  imag- 
ine anything  more  ugly  than  a smiling  Japanese 
matron.  The  contrast  between  the  red  gums 
and  the  jet-black  teeth  is  so  unpleasant  as  to 
rob  even  a smile  of  all  its  sweetness. 

J apanese  mothers  have  an  amusing  way  of 
disposing  of  their  young  children.  It  must,  on 
some  accounts,  be  a misfortune  to  be  the  oldest 
child,  at  least,  the  oldest  girl ; I am  not  sure 
that  the  same  duty  is  imposed  upon  boys.  You 
often  see  a little  girl  of  only  seven  or  eight  years 
of  age  with  a younger  baby  tied  upon  her  back, 
running  about  at  play,  or  through  the  streets, 
apparently  but  slightly  disturbed  by  her  burden. 
In  the  same  way  mothers  carry  their  very 
young  infants,  their  poor  little  heads  lolling 
about  at  great  risk  of  dislocating  their  necks.  I 
am  sure  they  must  be  uncomfortable  ; but  they 
do  not  cry.  I think,  having  found  by  experience 
that  crying  brings  no  relief,  they  have  come  to 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


279 


the  philosophic  resolution  to  bear  their  trials, 
not  only  with  resignation,  but  with  assumed 
cheerfulness. 

In  the  latter  part  of  August,  1860,  in  com- 
pany with  the  other  missionaries,  we  attended  a 
party  given  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Schoyer  of  Yo- 
kohama. The  invitations  were  for  a dejeuner 
at  one  o’clock ; but,  as  some  of  the  guests  were 
late,  we  did  not  sit  down  to  breakfast  until  two. 
The  meal,  having  five  or  six  courses,  was  as  pro- 
tracted as  a dinner.  We  sat  at  table  until  nearly 
five  o’clock,  which  so  over-fatigued  me  as  to 
make  me  ill,  and  unfit  for  enjoying  the  various 
entertainments  which  followed.  However,  after 
taking  a rest,  I was  able  to  go  for  a while  to 
look  at  some  curious  juggler  performances. 
The  actor,  it  was  said,  was  one  who  was  often 
employed  to  perform  before  the  emperor.  After 
dark  there  were  some  pretty  fireworks.  During 
the  juggler’s  exhibition  we  had  the  privilege  (I 
cannot  call  it  pleasure)  of  listening  to  some  na- 
tive music  ; horrible,  discordant  sounds,  not  as 
near  an  approach  to  harmony  as  we  sometimes 
hear  in  China. 

Our  Kanagawa  party  left  at  about  nine  o’clock, 
though  urged  by  our  kind  hostess  to  remain  to 
dinner,  which  I believe  was  not  partaken  of  until 


280 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


midnight.  The  prettiest  feature  of  this  day’s 
fete  was  the  tasteful  decoration  of  the  house. 
Nearly  all  the  inner  partitions  between  the  rooms 
had  been  removed,  and  the  walls  were  hung  with 
evergreens  and  flowers.  Exquisite  taste  had 
been  displayed,  and  after  lamplight  the  effect 
was  most  striking.  It  seemed  like  fairy-land. 

On  the  ninth  of  September  we  experienced  a 
very  severe  typhoon.  Fourteen  houses  in  Yoko- 
hama were  blown  down,  and  a great  amount  of 
property  destroyed ; but  no  lives  were  lost,  or  at 
least  none  among  foreigners  on  shore.  It  was 
probably  in  this  storm  that  the  11  Camilla,”  an 
English  man-of-war,  was  lost  at  sea,  somewhere 
between  Hakodadi  and  Kanagawa.  She  sailed  from 
the  former  place  about  the  first  of  the  month, 
and  was  never  heard  of  afterwards.  She  had 
on  board,  with  her  officers  and  crew,  in  all  one 
hundred  and  thirty  men.  It  seemed  too  dreadful 
to  imagine  what  was  undoubtedly  her  fate. 

During  the  autumn  the  two  United  States 
men-of-war,  Hartford  and  Niagara,  visited  Japan; 
We  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  the  commanders, 
and  many  of  the  officers  from  each.  We  were 
also  invited  to  receptions  on  board  both  vessels, 
at  only  one  of  which,  however,  I was  able  to  be 
present,  on  account  of  illness.  Mr.  Nevius  and 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


281 


I saw  the  noble  Niagara  as  she  came  into  port. 
She  was  bearing  the  Japanese  Embassadors  back 
from  their  visit  in  the  United  States,  and  as  the 
time  allotted  for  her  outward  voyage  had  more 
than  expired,  we  were  somewhat  anxiously 
watching  for  her  coming.  One  day,  as  we  were 
climbing,  as  was  our  wont,  to  the  watch-tower 
on  the  hill  above  us,  to  catch  a breath  of  the 
fresh  sea  air,  Mr.  Nevius  remarked,  “ It  is  high 
time  that  the  Niagara  should  be  in,”  and  a step 
or  two  further  up,  as  he  glanced  seawards,  he 
added,  “ and  there  she  is  ! ” Very  beautiful  she 
appeared,  moving  “ like  a thing  of  life  ” through 
the  calm  waters  of  the  bay.  She  did  not  anchor 
at  Yokohama,  but  after  stopping  a very  few 
moments  went  on  to  Yeddo  with  the  embassa- 
dors. We  speculated  much  as  to  their  sensa- 
tions upon  finding  themselves  once  more  upon 
their  native  soil,  and  wondered  if  they  were 
glad  to  be  at  home,  and  whether  happy  hearts 
were  waiting  to  welcome  them.  We  also  felt 
some  curiosity  as  to  the  reception  they  might 
meet  from  the  government,  and  the  effect  likely 
to  be  produced  by  such  an  influx  of  new  facts 
and  ideas  as  they  might  naturally  be  supposed 
to  bring  with  them.  But,  if  any  excitement  en- 
sued upon  their  arrival  at  the  capital,  or  any 


282 


OUE  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


special  interest  was  felt  in  their  report  concern- 
ing the  strange  lands  they  had  visited,  little  or 
nothing  was  known  of  it  by  foreigners.  I could 
never  hear  that  the  members  of  the  embassy 
were  held  in  higher  esteem  by  the  natives  on  ac- 
count of  their  distinguishing  honors  and  advan- 
tages. Even  the  redoubtable  “ Tommy,”  the 
pet  and  darling  of  American  ladies,  and  a rather 
nice  young  man  he  was,  was  regarded  in  Japan 
only  as  an  ordinary  individual,  by  no  means  su- 
perior to  many  who  had  not  been  privileged  to 
bask  in  “ fair  ladies’  smiles  ” or  listen  to  their 
gentle  words  of  affection  and  interest. 

I suspect  American  ladies  did  themselves  little 
credit  in  the  eyes  of  these  Eastern  gentlemen,  by 
their  freedom  of  manner  or  of  words ; and,  if  a 
“bird  of  the  air”  could  have  repeated  the  ac- 
counts which  the  J apanese  without  doubt  carried 
back  to  their  friends  and  relatives,  of  the  social 
life  and  customs  of  Americans,  certain  individu- 
als I am  sure  would  have  been  much  astonished 
to  find  what  mistaken  ideas  had  been  formed  of 
them.  It  would  certainly  hardly  become  the 
Japanese  to  affect  disgust  at  any  style  of  dress 
which  they  may  have  witnessed  in  America,  but 
I have  understood  that  the  “ low  necks  and  short 
sleeves  ’ ’ of  our  ladies  struck  them  as  very  ex- 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


283 


traordinary.  It  is  not  so  strange  that  the 
Chinese  should  be  surprised  at  these  peculiari- 
ties ; as  their  own  female  costume  is  at  once  very 
simple,  and  exceedingly  modest ; and  it  is  a fact, 
that  foi’eign  ladies’  evening  dress  at  first  impress- 
es them  very  unfavorably. 

The  Japanese  costume  is  neither  so  pretty  nor 
so  graceful  as  the  Chinese.  Women  in  both 
countries  dress  the  hair  in  an  exceedingly  elabo- 
rate style,  rivalling  even  the  present  fashions  at 
home. 

Mr.  Stuart,  the  excellent  chaplain  of  the  Niag- 
ara, told  us  many  entertaining  incidents  relating 
to  the  Japanese  Embassadors  and  suite,  especial- 
ly of  “Tommy,”  or  To-me  (which,  if  I remem- 
ber rightly,  was  his  Japanese  name),  in  whom 
he  was  much  interested. 

Among  the  many  pleasant  recollections  of  our 
residence  in  Japan,  there  is  nothing  which  we 
remember  with  more  satisfaction  than  a visit 
from  some  Christian  sailors  belonging  to  the  Niag- 
ara. As  Mr.  Nevius  was  accompanying  Mr. 
Stuart  to  the  landing,  where  he  was  to  take  a 
boat  to  go  off  to  the  steamer,  they  met  a party 
of  these  sailors,  who,  having  leave  of  absence  for 
the  night,  were  seeking  some  inn  to  stay  at.  As 
there  was  no  such  place  at  Kanagawa,  Mr.  Ne- 


284 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


vius  at  once  invited  them  to  come  up  to  So-ko-jee, 
where  we  would  gladly  receive  them,  and  make 
them  as  comfortable  as  our  limited  accommodations 
would  permit.  Mr.  Stuart  strongly  advised  them 
to  accept  the  invitation;  but  it  was  not  without  a 
good  deal  of  urging  that  they  finally  consented 
to  do  so.  I was  not  a little  surprised  just  at 
dusk  to  see  Mr.  Nevius  returning  in  company 
with  eight  stalwart  sailors.  Nevertheless,  when 
I learned  who  they  were,  I was  very  glad  indeed 
to  welcome  them,  and  set  to  work  at  once  to  get 
them  a supper,  and  make  arrangements  for  the 
night.  We  gave  them  Mr.  Nevius’  study,  and 
the  guest-room  off  it ; but  as  there  was  only  one 
bed,  they  were  quite  satisfied  to  make  use  of  the 
soft  native  matting  on  the  floor  instead,  — a very 
good  substitute.  We  had  no  difficulty  in  hiring, 
for  the  night,  as  many  warm  cotton  “ comfort- 
ables ” as  were  needed;  and  so  with  very  little 
trouble  they  were  all  supplied  with  resting- 
places. 

We  sent  out  and  procured  a quantity  of  the 
excellent  oysters  or  clams  which  are  so  abundant 
there,  and  it  was  not  long  before  I and  my  two 
good  Japanese  servants  had  ready  an  evening 
meal  which  our  guests  seemed  to  enjoy  heartily. 
I have  not  mentioned  that  soon  after  the  sailors 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


285 


came  in,  and  had  gone  to  their  rooms,  and  while 
Mr.  Nevius  and  myself  were  occupied  in  another 
part  of  the  house,  we  heard  them  singing  to- 
gether the  dear  old  hymn,  “ There  is  a fountain 
filled  with  blood.”  The  tune  was  a peculiar 
one,  with  plaintive  minor  strains  wandering  high 
and  low  in  a most  singular  measure.  It  could 
hardly  be  written,  I fancy ; but,  as  they  sang  it, 
with  their  full,  manly  voices,  and  hearts  over- 
flowing with  emotion,  it  was  beautiful,  and  most 
touching. 

Hearing  of  our  unusual  visitors,  some  of  the 
other  missionaries  came  in  at  evening  to  enjoy 
the  rare  pleasure  of  seeing  Christian  sailors. 
Our  usual  evening  worship  was  converted  into  a 
prayer-meeting ; at  least  it  grew  into  one  quite 
unexpectedly  to  ourselves.  After  having  read  a 
chapter  from  the  Bible,  Mr.  Nevius  requested  a 
very  respectable  elderly  man  to  offer  prayer, 
which  he  did ; and,  immediately  after,  he  arose, 
and  in  a quiet,  dignified  way,  told  us  of  his  past 
life,  its  trials,  sins,  and  follies,  and  of  his  conver- 
sion on  the  passage  from  the  United  States  in 
the  Niagara.  This  man  was  called  “ Uncle  Bill,” 
and  seemed  to  be  much  looked  up  to  by  the 
others.  After  “ Uncle  Bill  ” had  finished  speak- 
ing he  said,  addressing  the  others,  £ ‘ Come,  breth- 


286 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


ren,  don’t  be  backward,  but  tell  wbat  the  Lord 
has  done  for  your  souls.”  Then  one  after  an- 
other either  made  a few  remarks,  or  knelt  in 
prayer.  Many  of  the  sailors  were  foreigners, 
and  all  were  ignorant  and  uneducated,  yet  we 
were  astonished  to  hear  with  what  ease  and 
beauty  they  spoke  of  God’s  dealings  with  them, 
and  their  present  happiness  in  his  service.  One 
poor  Swede,  called  Andrew,  knew  so  little  Eng- 
lish that  it  was  with  difficulty  he  related  his 
simple  but  affecting  story.  He,  like  all  the  rest, 
evinced  the  most  unbounded  love  and  respect  for 
Mr.  Stuart,  their  chaplain.  And  well  he  had 
deserved  their  affection,  having  been  to  them  a 
most  faithful,  loving  friend.  One  hymn  which 
was  sung  at  this  impromptu  service  was  most 
spirited,  and  soul-stirring.  It  was  the  one  com- 
mencing, “ Come,  ye  who  love  the  Lord,”  with  a 
chorus,  “ I’m  glad  salvation’s  free.”  And  we 
could  not  doubt,  as  we  listened  to  this  joyous, 
happy  singing,  that  they  experienced  then  a 
purer  pleasure  than  the  world  with  its  danger- 
ous fascinations  had  ever  afforded  them. 

The  next  morning,  after  breakfast,  a pleasant 
hour  was  spent  at  family  worship,  and,  soon  after, 
our  guests  prepared  to  take  their  departure. 
Then  we  noticed  grave  consultations,  as  if  some- 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


287 


thing  of  importance  was  under  consideration. 
And  presently,  after  all  the  others  had  left  the 
house,  “ Uncle  Bill,”  extending  his  hand,  as  if 
for  a farewell  “shake,”  poured  into  Mr.  Nevius’ 
hand  a quantity  of  silver  currency ; I cannot  say 
how  many  Japanese  itzebus.  It  was  with  much 
difficulty  that  we  succeeded  in  convincing  him 
that  we  could  not  possibly  accept  pay  for  the 
slight  service  we  had  been  privileged  to  render 
them.  Before  the  ship  left  port,  Mr.  Stuart  was 
the  bearer  of  a very  pretty  little  cabinet,  which 
was  a present  sent  us  by  the  sailors,  as  a token 
of  their  appreciation  of  the  visit  at  our  house. 

One  day,  while  the  Niagara  was  still  at  Kana- 
gawa,  we  attended  a reception  given  on  board  to 
his  Excellency,  Mr.  Harris.  On  the  minister’s 
arrival,  a salute  of  thirteen  guns  was  fired,  after 
which  the  band  at  once  struck  up  “Hail  Colum- 
bia! ” and  we  one  and  all  waxed  patriotic.  But 
seriously,  it  was  delightful,  m that  far-away 
country,  to  listen  to  our  soul-stirring  national 
airs,  and  to  see  our  beautiful  “star-spangled 
banner”  unfurled  to  the  breeze,  and  to  meet 
our  fellow-countrymen,  with  whom  we  could  talk 
sympathizingly  of  the  dear  land  far  away. 

Captain  McKane,  of  the  Niagara,  was  one  of 
those  truly  good  men  who  never  fail  to  secure 


288 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


the  respect  and  affection,  not  only  of  those  under 
their  command,  but  of  all  with  whom  they  come 
in  contact.  The  sailors  spoke  of  him  with  the 
greatest  veneration  and  reverence  ; and  I remem- 
ber particularly  their  mentioning  the  intimate 
and  cordial  relations  existing  between  him  and 
his  chaplain,  Mr.  Stuart. 

At  the  recommendation  of  the  American  Min- 
ister, the  twenty-ninth  of  November  was  ob- 
served by  the  American  residents  in  Japan  as  a 
“ Thanksgiving  day,”  and  services  were  held  at 
the  United  States  Consulate  in  Kanagawa. 
Rev.  Mr.  Brown  preached  an  excellent  sermon, 
which  I regretted  not  hearing,  having  been  de- 
tained at  home  by  illness.  Some  persons,  rather 
censoriously  as  it  seemed  to  me,  criticised  Mr. 
Harris’  action  in  this  respect  severely;  but  I 
admired  it.  I only  wish  this  beautiful  national 
holiday  might  be  observed  wherever  American 
citizens  are  found. 

Towards  the  close  of  our  visit  in  Japan,  we 
were  distressed  beyond  measure,  by  hearing  of 
the  danger  threatening  our  beloved  country.  As 
the  indications  of  the  disruption  became  more 
and  more  alarming,  our  hearts  sank  within  us. 
Perhaps  we  felt  it  the  more  from  being  obliged 
to  meet  constantly  with  persons  of  other  nation- 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


289 


alities,  who,  so  far  from  sympathizing  with  us 
in  our  regrets,  seemed  almost  if  not  quite  grati- 
fied at  what  they  were  pleased  to  regard  as  the 
“ downfall  of  the  boasted  Republic.”  It  was 
not  until  we  reached  Nagisaki,  on  our  passage 
back  to  China,  that  we  heard  of  the  commence- 
ment of  actual  hostilities,  in  “ the  firing  upon 
Fort  Sumter.”  I can  never  forget  the  emo- 
tions that  intelligence  excited,  — a strange  mix- 
ture of  grief,  shame,  and  indignation.  Another 
thing  which  made  our  position,  in  common  with 
other  American  missionaries,  particularly  trying, 
was  that  Northerners  and  Southerners  had  until 
then  been  so  closely  and  intimately  associated 
that  mere  local  distinctions  had  been  almost  lost 
sight  of.  But  no  sooner  did  we  know  the  bellig- 
erent position  in  which  our  two  sections  of  coun- 
try had  placed  themselves,  than  a slight  line  of 
demarcation  began  to  form  even  between  those 
who  had  been  friends  for  many  long  years  ; and 
as  home  matters  became  more  serious  this  feeling 
increased.  Sitting  at  dinner,  one  day,  in  the 
early  part  of  “the  war,”  some  expression  from 
Mrs.  P.,  a Southern  lady  present,  drew  from  Mrs. 
N.,  a Northerner,  the  remark,  “Is it  possible,  Mrs. 
P.,  that  you  love  your  own  one  State  better  than 
you  do  the  Union?”  “ Indeed  I do,”  was  her 
19 


290 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


decided  rejoinder.  “ Well,  I assure  you,”  was 
Mrs.  N.’s  no  less  decided  reply,  “ if  my  State 
had  been  guilty  of  what  South  Carolina  has,  I 
would  not  own  that  I was  her  daughter ! ” — cer- 
tainly not  a “soft  answer  ” calculated  to  “ turn 
away  wrath.”  But  in  this  case  the  dear  South 
Carolina  friend  was  so  sure  of  Mrs.  N.’s  love  for 
her,  and  knew  so  well  how  often  she  had,  not 
quite  “ fought,  bled,  and  died,”  but,  at  least,  had 
“ fought  ” for  the  South  in  wordy  battles  with 
those  who  assailed  it,  that  she  did  not  take  of- 
fence at  this  plainness  of  speech.  As  time 
passed  on  we  all  learned  to  be  more  circumspect, 
and  to  pay  more  scrupulous  regard  to  each  other’s 
feelings  and  prejudices.  On  the  whole,  consid- 
ering the  intensity  of  feeling  on  both  sides,  I 
think  we  deserve  some  credit  for  remembering 
through  all,  that,  though  differing  so  widely  in 
certain  respects,  we  were  bound  together  by  one 
tie  stronger  and  more  precious  than  all  others. 
We  used  to  meet  constantly  in  Sabbath  services, 
and  social  prayer-meetings  ; and  when,  as  was 
often  the  case,  some  crushing  sorrow  fell  into  our 
midst,  we  forgot  all  else  in  our  common  sympa- 
thies and  griefs.  And  now  that  those  dark  days 
are  happily  over,  I trust  that  the  old  spirit  of 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


291 


love  and  harmony  will  be  restored,  never  again 
to  be  disturbed. 

During  the  winter  of  1860-61,  we  were 
grieved  at  bearing  from  Ningpo  of  the  complete 
failure  of  the  health  of  Mrs.  Danforth,  one  of 
the  newly  arrived  missionaries,  and  also  of  Mrs. 
llankin’s  severe  illness,  which  made  it  probable 
that  both  she  and  her  husband  might  be  obliged 
to  return  to  the  United  States.  This  possibility, 
and  several  other  considerations,  decided  Mr. 
Nevius  that  it  was  his  duty  to  return  to  Ningpo 
as  soon  as  a good  opportunity  offered.  We  had 
but  little  doubt,  as  the  war  at  the  north  of  China 
was  over,  that  it  would  be  quite  practicable,  in 
the  course  of  a few  months,  to  go  to  some  more 
favorable  climate  to  commence  a new  station,  if 
that  plan  should  still  seem  desirable. 

It  was  by  no  means  from  want  of  interest  in 
Japan  that  we  did  not  determine  to  remain  there. 
On  the  contrary,  it  seemed  to  us  then,  as  it  does 
now,  a most  interesting  sphere  for  missionary 
operations.  But  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  there 
was  little  or  nothing  which  could  be  done,  except 
in  acquiring  the  language,  and  preparing  books. 
Long  years  of  “patient  waiting”  were  evidently 
in  store  for  those  who  had  given  themselves  to 
Christ’s  work  in  Japan.  And  while  this  was  the 


292 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


case  in  that  country,  China  was  waiting  with 
wide-open  doors  for  the  introduction  of  Christian- 
ity, not  only  in  the  “ five  open  ports,”  but 
through  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  land. 
Under  these  circumstances  our  duty  seemed  clear  ; 
but  it  was  with  deep  regret  that  we  parted  from 
our  missionary  associates  and  other  valued  friends 
in  Kanagawaand  Yokohama. 

We  took  passage  for  Shanghai  in  an  old  Eng- 
lish steamer,  called  the  “Cadiz.”  The  principal 
inducement  for  choosing  this  vessel  rather  than 
a sailing  ship,  such  as  the  one  in  which  we  had 
come,  was  that  she  would  pass  through  the  “in- 
land sea,”  the  beauty  of  which  we  had  heard  de- 
scribed in  glowing  colors.  The  “ Cadiz  ” had 
good  accommodations,  a pleasant  captain,  and 
agreeable  passengers  ; but  she  was  old  and  worn 
out,  having  been  in  service  many  years.  Her 
boilers  were  so  frail  that  every  few  hours  they 
would  burst,  and  no  little  time  was  required  for 
repairing  them.  As,  with  an  engine  constructed 
as  ours  was,  there  was  little  or  no  danger  from 
this  slight  accident,  and  as,  in  several  cases,  it 
fortunately  occurred  at  points  of  the  route  con- 
veniently near  land,  it  was  sometimes  rather 
welcome  than  otherwise,  at  least  to  the  gentlemen 
on  board,  as  it  gave  them  the  opportunity  of  en- 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


293 


joying  a ramble  on  shore.  The  only  two  ladies, 
Mrs.  Brown,  the  captain’s  wife,  and  myself,  as 
we  did  not  leave  the  ship,  found  such  frequent 
delays  somewhat  irksome. 

We  came  on  hoard  the  steamer  on  Friday,  the 
first  of  February,  but  a break  in  the  boiler  de- 
tained us  until  the  morrow.  The  first  day  after 
leaving  Kanagawa  was  a wretched  sea-sick  time. 
The  weather  was  bad,  the  wind  ahead,  with 
short  “chopping  seas,”  and  the  vessel  pitched 
with  that  peculiar  motion  which  most  persons 
find  the  one  above  all  others  to  produce  sea-sick- 
ness. We  anchored  the  first  night  in  a harbor 
called  Aigero.  The  next  morning,  early,  we 
again  got  under  way ; but  the  weather  continu- 
ing bad,  and  the  sea  very  rough,  we  ran  in  to 
Simoda,  and  anchored  close  to  the  shore.  This 
was  the  Sabbath,  and  Mr.  Nevius  held  service  in 
the  cabin.  After  tiffin  in  the  afternoon,  the  gen- 
tlemen went  on  shore.  Mr.  Nevius  had  a quiet 
walk  by  himself,  climbing  to  the  summit  of  a hill 
which  gave  him  a widely  extended  view.  He 
also  visited  the  temple  where  his  Excellency,  Mr. 
Harris,  and  poor  Mr.  Hewskin  lived  for  a long 
while  before  going  to  Yeddo.  Simoda  is  pleas- 
antly situated,  with  hills  very  like  those  at  Ka- 
nagawa rising  behind  it.  On  Monday  we  had 


294 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


clear  sailing  with  a favorable  wind  and  less  mo- 
tion, and  by  Tuesday  morning  we  were  near  the 
entrance  to  the  inland  sea. 

Suonada  Sea,  which  I believe  is  the  native 
name  for  this  land-locked  passage,  lies  between 
the  large  island  of  Nipon,  and  two  smaller  ones, 
Kiu-siu,  and  Si-kopf.  It  is  at  places  very  nar- 
row, but  at  some  parts  must  be  from  thirty  to 
forty  miles  in  width.  It  has  numerous  small 
islands,  many  of  which  are  barren,  and  I pre- 
sume without  inhabitants. 

On  Tuesday  afternoon  we  passed  between  two 
islands  with  a town  and  a fort  on  either  side ; 
one  the  pilot  called  U-ra,  and  the  other  Kada- 
no-shima.  We  anchored  that  night  at  Osaca; 
the  new  port  nearest  Miako,  the  capital,  and 
residence  of  the  “ Spiritual  Emperor,”  as  he  was 
in  those  days  called  by  foreigners.  The  anchor- 
age was  across  the  bay  at  Hiogo.  I saw  it  only 
at  evening,  but  Mr.  Nevius,  who  went  on  deck 
before  we  weighed  anchor  the  next  morning,  said 
it  was  a beautiful  spot. 

All  Wednesday  we  were  passing  a succession 
of  most  lovely  islands,  some  of  which  were  cul- 
tivated and  thickly  populated,  to  judge  from  tho 
numerous  villages  which  dotted  the  hill-sides.  We 
spent  that  night  in  a small  bay,  called  I-no-no- 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


295 


shima.  We  had  sailed  but  a short  distance  the 
next  morning  when  a fog  settled  over  the  water, 
so  dense  that  we  could  not  see  our  way.  They 
backed  the  vessel  to  a safe  anchorage,  in  doing 
which  the  boiler  burst.  While  thus  detained, 
the  captain  and  the  gentlemen  passengers  took  a 
run  on  shore,  in  spite  of  the  fog  and  rain.  They 
visited  a temple,  where  they  were  hospitably  en- 
tertained by  the  head  priest,  who  donned  his 
robes  and  performed  a service  for  them.  The  in- 
habitants were  evidently  much  alarmed  at  their 
presence,  and,  as  they  entered  the  village,  they 
heard  a great  commotion,  and  a universal  slam- 
ming to  of  doors,  while  the  females  remained  in- 
visible. 

On  Saturday,  the  ninth,  we  anchored  in  a very 
narrow  passage,  called  Shi-mo-no-saki.  Our  coal 
had  given  out,  and  it  was  determined  to  obtain 
some,  if  possible,  from  a large  town  which  stood 
near  the  water’s  edge.  The  only  persons  on 
board,  who  understood  J apanese,  were  ourselves, 
and  one  of  the  passengers,  who  was  a Jew.  The 
latter,  whose  whole  attention  while  in  the  coun- 
try had  been  given  to  trade  and  barter,  was  for- 
tunately much  better  supplied  with  that  class  of 
words  than  Nr.  Nevius,  who,  however,  was  better 
qualified  to  carry  on  general  conversation.  The 


296 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


two  together  were  able  to  transact  the  necessary 
business,  and  they  accompanied  the  captain  and 
purser  on  shore.  They  ascended  a flight  of 
steps  leading  from  the  beach  to  what  was  appar- 
ently the  principal  entrance ; but  at  their  ap- 
proach a gate  which  obstructed  the  way  was  at 
once  closed  and  barred.  They  conversed  through 
the  gate  with  some  officials  who  made  their  ap- 
pearance. Their  request  for  coal  at  first  met  a 
refusal ; but  having  been  reminded  of  the  treaty 
stipulations,  and  at  the  captain’s  request  assured 
that,  unless  they  furnished  the  needed  article, 
men  from  the  ship  would  at  once  be  landed  to 
take  it  by  force,  they  gave  a reluctant  consent. 
However  they  still  made  many  difficulties,  and 
it  was  not  until  some  time  in  the  succeeding 
night  that  the  coal  was  brought.  During  the 
afternoon  the  gentlemen  all  enjoyed  another 
visit  on  shore. 

The  next  day,  the  Sabbath,  we  were  out  in  the 
open  sea,  or  at  least  so  it  seemed,  for  the  waves 
were  high,  and  we  suffered  much  from  sea-sick- 
ness ; so  that  it  was  impracticable  to  hold  ser- 
vice. Just  at  evening  we  came  to  anchor  in  a 
sheltered  nook  with  small  islands  on  every  side. 

Early  on  Monday  forenoon  we  passed  through 
the  narrow  channel  separating  Hirado  and  Kiu- 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


297 


siu.  It  was  a very  exciting  time,  and  we  were 
for  a few  moments  in  great  danger.  J ust  in  mid- 
channel  is  a low,  bald  rock,  between  which  and 
the  main  land  there  was  barely  room  for  a large 
vessel  like  ours  to  pass.  At  the  most  critical 
point,  in  consequence  of  the  fires  in  the  engine 
being  low,  the  ship  began  to  go  back  instead  of 
forwards,  and  that  too  in  the  direction  of  the 
rock,  which  was  so  close  to  it  that  it  seemed  but 
a few  yards  distant. 

By  some  skilful  manoeuvring  of  the  sails 
the  defect  was  supplied,  and  a welcome  breeze 
carried  us  past  the  danger. 

The  scenery  at  this  point  was  perhaps  the 
finest  of  the  whole  route,  though  amidst  so  many 
beautiful  and  varying  scenes  it  was  difficult  to 
give  the  preference  to  any  one. 

On  the  afternoon  of  this  day  we  reached 
Nagisaki.  Mr.  Nevius  went  at  once  to  see  the 
missionaries,  Mr.  Williams,  now  American  Epis- 
copal Bishop  of  China,  and  Dr.  Schmidt,  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Yerbeck,  of  the  American  Dutch 
Reformed  Church.  He  was  accompanied  back 
to  the  ship  by  Mr.  Williams  and  Dr.  Schmidt. 
The  two  or  three  days  that  we  remained  in  port 
we  spent  very  agreeably  on  shore  with  the  mis- 
sionaries, returning  to  the  steamer  at  night.  Mr. 


298 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Nevius  was  away  during  the  days,  making  the 
most  of  his  opportunity  for  seeing  Nagisaki  and 
its  surroundings. 

Dr.  Schmidt  and  Mr.  Williams  were  living,  in 
a bachelor  way,  high  up  one  of  the  steep  hills 
back  of  the  town.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Verbeck  oc- 
cupied a house  somewhat  lower  down  the  hill. 
In  company  with  these  friends  we  visited  a large 
temple  near  their  dwelling,  and  also  Desima, 
which,  though  pleasantly  situated  on  the  side  of 
the  bay,  is  only  a small  square,  not  larger  than 
many  a village  common.  It  is  closely  built,  and, 
notwithstanding  its  limited  size,  has  been  for  many 
years  a place  of  no  small  importance,  as  the 
only  foothold  of  foreigners  in  Japan. 

The  scenery  around  Nagisaki  is  not  so  tame 
as  that  near  Yeddo,  the  hills  being  much  higher 
on  every  side  ; but  I think  on  this  account  as  well 
as  from  its  somewhat  lower  latitude,  it  may  be 
much  warmer  in  summer,  and  not  so  desirable 
as  a place  of  residence. 

After  a pleasant  visit  at  Nagisaki,  where 
several  new  passengers  came  on  board,  we  again 
weighed  anchor  and  sailed  for  Shanghai,  the  dis- 
tance between  these  two  places  being,  I believe, 
about  four  hundred  miles.  We  had  delightful 
weather  and  a smooth  sea  nearly  all  the  way  over. 


VISIT  TO  JAPAN. 


299 


The  passengers  by  this  time  had  become  very 
sociable,  and  quite  like  old  friends.  These  ship 
friendships  are  easily  made,  and,  in  most  instances, 
almost  as  quickly  forgotten. 

We  reached  Shanghai  on  Sunday  the  seven- 
teenth, more  than  two  weeks  from  the  time  we 
left  Kanagawa. 


300 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  — LEAVING 
NINGPO. 

Soon  after  our  return  from  Japan,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Rankin,  and  their  sister,  Mrs.  McCartee, 
arrived  in  Shanghai  from  Ningpo.  The  health 
of  Mrs.  Rankin  was  such  that  her  immediate 
return  to  the  United  States  was  considered  im- 
perative. Mr.  Rankin  remained  in  China. 

As  I was  desirous  of  spending  a short  time 
with  Mrs.  Rankin  before  her  embarkation,  my 
husband  proceeded  to  Ningpo,  leaving  me  to 
come  down  the  coast  some  days  later,  in  company 
with  Mrs.  McCartee. 

After  a pleasant  visit  at  Shanghai,  Mrs.  McCar- 
tee and  I went  to  Ningpo  in  a steamer  belonging 
to  the  firm  of  Olyphant  & Co.  Leaving  Woosung 
Thursday  at  noon,  we  reached  home  Friday 
afternoon.  As  we  were  at  anchor  during  the 
night,  we  in  reality  made  the  passage  in  only 
about  eighteen  hours. 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  301 


On  reaching  Ningpo,  we  went  again  to  our 
comfortable  quarters  at  Mr.  Rankin’s.  After  his 
return,  a few  weeks  later,  we  kept  house  together 
in  a very  informal  but  pleasant  way.  He  then, 
as  always,  did  everything  in  his  power  to  con- 
tribute to  our  comfort ; and  we  had  the  satis- 
faction of  thinking  that  we  helped  a little  to 
cheer  him  in  his  loneliness. 

We  were  grieved  to  find  Mrs.  Danforth,  one 
of  the  newly  arrived  missionaries,  very  ill.  Of 
a naturally  delicate  constitution,  the  climate 
seemed  at  once  to  fasten  disease  upon  her.  In 
the  hope  that  the  bracing  air  of  Shantung,  of 
which  we  heard  glowing  accounts,  might  prove 
beneficial,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Danforth  left  Ningpo, 
shortly  after  our  arrival,  for  the  North.  They 
went  in  company  with  the  Gayleys,  of  Shanghai. 

The  missionaries  at  Ningpo  at  this  time  de- 
voted much  attention  to  itinerations  in  the  in- 
terior. The  country  was  not  only  nominally, 
but  really,  open  to  missionary  efforts.  Had  it 
not  been  for  the  disturbances  occasioned  by  the 
“ long-haired  rebels,”  we  would  have  gone  back  to 
Hang-chow.  As  it  was,  we  could  only  look  back 
lovingly  and  sorrowfully  to  our  old  home  there, 
and  turn  our  eyes  elsewhere  when  considering 
the  question  of  a new  mission  station.  We 


302 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


•would  gladly  have  settled  permanently  at  Ningpo, 
but  my  health  declined  so  rapidly  during  the 
few  months  we  were  necessarily  detained  there, 
that  it  was  not  considered  safe  for  ,us  to  remain 
even  through  one  summer. 

The  climate  of  Ningpo  affects  different  in- 
dividuals very  differently.  While  there  are  a 
few  who  seem  to  enjoy  as  good  health  there  as 
elsewhere,  most  persons  suffer  seriously.  Fever 
and  ague  are  so  common,  that  they  are  scarcely 
noticed ; while  liver  complaints  of  various  forms 
and  aggravated  characters  are  frequent,  and  often 
fatal.  There  are  also  many  cases  of  consumption 
among  the  natives,  and  foreigners  have  been 
very  subject  to  throat  and  chest  affections  ; others 
again  suffer  from  mere  debility.  Without  serious 
illness,  and  before  we  are  aware,  we  find  our- 
selves strangely  weak,  and  as  nervous  as  weak. 
Trifles  “ light  as  air  ” seem  now  momentous.  A 
simple  occurrence,  a word,  or  an  action,  which 
once  would  have  been  passed  unnoticed,  or  only 
received  with  a smile,  now  appears  a truly 
serious  matter  to  fret  and  grieve  over ; unless,  in- 
deed, one  has  a marvellous  deal  of  amiability  or 
fortitude.  One  effect  of  the  climate  seems  to 
he  to  make  good  people  unnecessarily  conscien- 
tious; or,  rather,  while  it  may  seem  to  the  in- 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIRE.  803 


dividual  that  he  is  actuated  by  conscience  alone, 
a looker-on  cannot  help  thinking  to  himself  or 
herself,  “ Oh,  how  much  human  nature,  or  self- 
will,  can  secrete  itself  unknown  in  a good  man’s 
bosom  ! ” And  then,  when  strength  has  de- 
parted, so  that  every  dictate  of  reason  or 
prudence  says,  “ and  recruit ,”  just  then 
we  feel  a morbid  impulse  to  keep  at  work,  even  at 
the  risk  of  making  martyrs  of  ourselves.  Had  I 
not  to  plead  guilty  myself  to  having  experienced 
nearly  all  these  distressing  symptoms,  I should 
hardly  have  felt  at  liberty  to  allude  to  them.  I 
wish,  indeed,  they  were  peculiar  to  myself ; but 
most  certainly  they  are  not.  All  alike,  mis- 
sionaries, merchants,  and  civilians,  gentlemen 
and  ladies,  adults  and  children,  with  very  few 
exceptions,  feel  the  injurious  effects  of  the 
scorching  sun  and  malarious  atmosphere  of  those 
southern  latitudes.  It  is,  however,  remarkable 
that  Ningpo  and  Shanghai  are  far  more  un- 
healthy than  the  more  southern  ports,  Fuchow, 
Amoy,  and  Canton.  This  must  be  owing  to 
local  causes.  Oliphant,  in  “ Lord  Elgin's  Mission 
to  China  and  Japan,”  thus  gives  his  impressions 
of  the  climate  of  Shanghai,  which  is  generally 
considered  somewhat  preferable  tothatofNingpo  : 
“ During  this  period  of  our  stay  (the  latter  part 


304 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


of  J uly)  at  Shanghai,  the  climate  was  more  op- 
pressive than  I ever  remember  to  have  felt  it  in 
any  part  of  the  world.  The  thermometer  did  not 
show  a higher  temperature  than  at  Tien-tsin,  but 
there  was  a stifling  heaviness  in  the  atmosphere 
which  acted  in  a most  distressing  manner  both 
on  health  and  spirits.  Cases  of  sun-stroke  were 
of  daily  occurrence,  chiefly  among  the  sailors  in 
the  shipping  which  crowded  the  river.  Upward 
of  a hundred  merchantmen,  waiting  hopelessly 
for  cargoes,  were  lying  at  anchor  under  the 
broiling  sun,  their  lists  of  sick  daily  increasing 
under  the  deleterious  influence  of  the  climate.” 
A few  months  later  he  adds,  “ We  had  now  been 
nearly  eighteen  months  knocking  about  on  the 
coast  of  China,  and  the  results  were  beginning 
to  manifest  themselves.  Mr.  L.  went  home  on 
sick  certificate ; of  those  that  remained,  all  of 
us  suffered  more  or  less  from  the  effects  of  the 
climate  ; and  the  hot  days,  chilly  evenings,  and 
malarious  exhalations  of  Shanghai  were  not 
calculated  to  remove  a tendency  to  ague,  where 
such  existed.  Our  own  experience  enabled  us 
without  any  difficulty  to  credit  the  fact,  which  is 
established  by  official  returns,  that  the  China 
station  is  the  most  unhealthy  to  which  our  ships 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  305 


are  sent ; the  sickness  and  mortality  being  greater 
here  than  even  on  the  west  coast  of  Africa.” 

Sir  It.  Alcock,  alluding  to  difficulties  which 
he  had  experienced  in  his  efforts  to  secure  fair 
dealings  from  foreign  merchants  in  their  com- 
mercial relations  with  the  Chinese,  says,  that 
years  ago,  he  “had  a conversation  with  one  of 
them,  honest  and  outspoken  enough  to  tell  the 
whole  truth.”  The  merchant  replied  to  his  ex- 
postulations, “No  doubt  your  anticipations  of 
future  evil  have  a certain  foundation  . 
but  in  what  way  am  I and  my  brother  land- 
holders and  speculators  concerned  in  this  ? . 

. . It  is  my  business  to  make  a fortune  with 

the  least  possible  loss  of  time.  ...  In 
two  or  three  years  at  farthest  I hope  to  realize  a 
fortune  and  get  away.  . . . You  must 

not  expect  men  in  my  situation  to  condemn  them- 
selves to  years  of  prolonged  exile  in  an  unhealthy 
climate  for  the  benefit  of  posterity.  We  are 
money-making,  practical  men ; our  business  is  to 
make  money,  as  much  and  as  fast  as  we  can 
. . . .”  Sir  R.  adds,  “ Successive  mer- 

chants, clerks,  and  store-keepers,  generations  of 
them,  so  to  speak,  come  and  disappear ; stay 
their  time  of  five  or  ten  years,  and  carry  off  a 
fortune.  . . . The  merchant  feels  that 


20 


306 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


he  must  be  quick  in  a climate  as  trying  as  that 
of  China.  He  has  to  snatch  a fortune  from  the 
jaws  of  death  ; and,  unless  he  make  haste,  it  is 
more  than  probable  that  he  will  only  dig  his  own 
grave,  and  be  snatched  away  himself.” 

When  to  these  unfavorable  influences  of  the 
climate  are  added  the  almost  equal  danger  from 
overwork,  and  the  want  of  sufficient  recreation 
and  relaxation,  it  will,  I think,  no  longer  seem 
strange  to  any  one  that  frequent  changes  in  the 
mission  circles  are  necessary  ; or  that  deaths  have 
been  sadly  frequent.  On  the  contrary,  it  is  re- 
markable that  so  many  have  been  able  to  remain 
for  eight,  ten,  or  more  years,  without  even  one 
return  to  their  native  land. 

It  was  one  of  my  greatest  comforts  while  in 
China,  that  though  my  husband’s  health  was  by 
no  means  perfectly  good,  he  was  seldom  obliged, 
even  for  a day,  to  abstain  from  work.  During 
our  sojourn  at  Ningpo,  at  the  time  of  which  I 
am  now  writing,  besides  his  chapel  preaching, 
and  frequent  itinerations,  he  kept  three  native 
teachers  busy  assisting  him  in  the  writing  or 
revision  of  his  books.  I mention  my  husband’s 
employments,  as  I am  naturally  more  familiar 
with  his  work  than  that  of  others.  But  the 
various  members  of  the  mission  were  all  actively 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  307 


employed ; and  every  day  brought  to  light  evi- 
dences that  their  labors  were  not  in  vain. 

The  San-poh  stations  were  then  very  prosper- 
ous. On  one  of  Mr.  Nevius;  visits  to  the  city 
of  Yu-yiao  he  administered  baptism  to  several 
converts ; among  others  to  a young  man  named 
Zi  Da-ching,  whose  case  was  a very  unusual 
one.  There  was  a native  Christian  connected 
with  the  Yu-yiao  church,  by  the  name  of  Dzing. 
He  was  a carpenter,  and,  in  the  prosecution  of 
his  trade,  had  been  employed  to  do  some  work 
within  the  city  prison.  Here,  as  elsewhere,  he 
used  often  to  talk  of  the  dear  Saviour,  and  the 
plan  of  salvation  as  revealed  in  the  Bible.  Among 
his  listeners  was  the  person  alluded  to  above, 
who,  strange  to  say,  was  not  imprisoned  for  any 
crime  of  his  own ; but  was  freely,  or  rather  for 
a compensation,  suffering  this  penalty  for  an- 
other. A rich  man  who  had  been  guilty  of 
murder,  or  some  other  crime,  had  hired  him  to 
go  to  prison  in  his  stead.  This  procedure  is  not 
a very  unusual  one  in  China.  On  a certain  oc- 
casion there  was  an  insurrection  in  the  city  ; and, 
in  the  confusion  and  alarm  consequent  upon  it, 
the  prison  was  left  unguarded,  and  all  the  in- 
mates, with  the  exception  of  Zi  Da-ching, 
escaped.  In  reward  for  his  faithfulness  in  re- 


308 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


maining,  notwithstanding  the  tempting  oppor- 
tunity for  gaining  his  freedom,  he  was  promoted 
to  a position  of  some  responsibility,  and  made  a 
kind  of  overseer  of  the  other  prisoners.  Still, 
in  common  with  the  rest,  he  was  kept  in  close 
confinement.  While  in  this  position,  he  heard 
from  carpenter  Dzing,  of  Christianity,  and  joy- 
fully embraced  it.  Desirous  to  obey  all  its 
commands,  he  very  soon  requested  baptism.  A 
notice  of  his  admission  to  the  church,  I find  in 
a letter  from  Mr.  Rankin.  It  is  as  follows  : “ At 
Yu-yiao,  on  Monday  last,  he  (Mr.  Nevius) 
baptized  in  the  jail,  the  head  man  of  whom  I 
have  frequently  written.  It  was  a very  solemn 
and  interesting  occasion ; and  I hope  that  God 
will  bring  great  good  out  of  it.  Already  ten 
of  the  twenty-two  prisoners  express  religious 
interest,  and  pray,  and  keep  the  Sabbath.  It 
was  exceedingly  interesting  to  notice  their  sav- 
age-looking faces  (for  some  of  them  have  been 
guilty  of  manslaughter),  listening  on  that  oc- 
casion, as  well  as  on  the  day  before,  when  I was 
there,  with  intense  eagerness  to  the  word  spoken. 
A general  reformation  has  also  taken  place  in 
the  prison,  the  men  having  applied  themselves 
to  making  straw  shoes  through  the  head  man’s 
instrumentality,  — thereby  making  some  money 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIRE.  309 


for  themselves.  The  officer  in  charge  is  de- 
lighted with  the  change  from  their  former  habits 
of  gambling,  and  cursing,  and  idleness;  and  the 
news  will  be  spread  outside  also,  and  do  good.” 

With  the  after  history  of  Zi  Da-ching,  I am 
not  very  familiar.  When  the  long-haired  rebels 
captured  Yu-yiao  a few  years  latter,  these  pris- 
oners were  all  liberated ; and  he,  being  a person 
of  good  presence  and  abilities,  was  made  an 
officer  in  the  army  of  the  insurgents.  When 
they  were  finally  conquered,  he  had  nearly  lost 
his  life  from  the  Imperialists,  and  was  only  saved 
through  the  intervention  of  the  missionaries. 
He  is  now,  I believe,  a quiet  and  respected  citi- 
zen in  one  of  the  villages  of  San-poh. 

Another  baptismal  service,  which  took  place 
at  about  this  time,  and  at  which  it  was  my 
privilege  to  be  present,  though  of  a different 
character,  was  scarcely  less  interesting.  I need 
not  apologize  for  introducing  a letter  of  my 
husband,  in  which  he  describes  it  as  follows,  — 

“I  wish  you  could  have  been  present  with  us 
to-day,  to  witness  an  incident  which  was  a 
pleasant  one  to  us;  and  one  which  I am  sure 
you  would  have  been  much  interested  in.  This 
morning,  Mr.  Green,  Mrs.  Nevius,  and  myself, 
left  Ningpo  to  visit  the  station  at  Bao-ko-tah, 


310 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


about  six  miles  distant.  The  native  elders,  Lu 
and  Zia,  accompanied  us,  it  being  our  principal 
object  to  examine  an  old  blind  woman,  with 
reference  to  her  admission  to  the  church.  We 
reached  the  place  before  noon ; and,  there  being 
a lady  in  the  party,  an  unusually  large  crowd 
soon  gathered  to  see  us,  composed  principally 
of  women  and  children ; the  men  being  very  busy, 
some  in  ploughing  the  fields,  and  some  in  mak- 
ing preparations  to  go  out  to  sea,  to  engage  in  the 
fisheries.  After  exchanging  salutations  with  the 
church-members,  and  speaking  a few  words  to  the 
people,  we  were  introduced  to  the  old  woman,  who 
was  desirous  of  being  baptized.  It  was  not  a little 
difficult  to  find  a quiet  place  where  we  might 
hold  a session  meeting.  We  persuaded  the  peo- 
ple, however,  to  retire  for  a while,  and  chose  for 
our  place  of  meeting  the  sleeping-room  of  the 
Christian  school-teacher,  which,  by  the  way,  is 
a model  of  neatness  and  cleanliness.  Mr.  Green 
and  Mrs.  Nevius  were  also  present  at  the  session 
meeting. 

“The  first  appearance  of  this  applicant  for 
church-membership  excited  our  deepest  interest 
and  sympathy.  She  is  seventy  years  old,  per- 
fectly blind,  and  very  deaf.  After  asking  God's 
blessing  and  direction,  I commenced  questioning 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  311 


her  ; -which  I did  by  drawing  my  chair  close  to 
hers,  and  speaking  very  loudly.  I asked  her 
whether  she  was  in  the  habit  of  secret  prayer, 
and  what  she  prayed  for.  She  replied  that  she 
was  old,  and  had  a very  poor  memory,  and 
could  not  express  well  in  words  what  she  clearly 
understood  and  felt  in  her  heart.  She  then 
went  on  to  enumerate  the  objects  of  her  prayers, 
including  the  enlightening  influences  of  the 
Spirit ; the  forgiveness  of  her  sins  ; assistance 
to  live  a godly  life ; and,  more  particularly,  a 
participation  in  the  blessings  and  enjoyments  of 
heaven.  She  spoke  of  her  delight  in  prayer ; 
of  the  amazing  love  of  God  for  such  a poor, 
worthless  creature  as  she;  and  seemed  to  have  a 
sense  of  the  nearness  of  God  through  Christ, 
and  to  be  filled  with  gratitude.  As  she  spoke,  the 
tears  rolled  down  her  cheeks  from  her  sightless 
eyes,  and,  could  she  have  seen,  she,  too,  would 
have  witnessed  tears  in  the  eyes  of  others. 

“ She  spoke  at  length  of  the  sin  of  having  dis- 
regarded God  for  so  many  years,  and  worshipped 
idols,  but  said,  as  if  she  felt  that  it  was  some 
extenuation  of  her  guilt,  ‘ It  was  because  I did 
not  know  of  God  and  his  love.’  She  also  spoke 
of  the  many  sins  of  the  heart  and  the  tongue. 
I asked  her  whether  she  felt  that  she  had  got  rid 


312 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


of  her  propensity  to  sin,  and  whether  she  was 
ever  conscious  of  a feeling  of  resentment  when 
others  treated  her  with  unkindness  and  neglect. 
She  answered,  with  earnestness,  ‘ I will  tell  you 
the  truth ; I will  keep  back  nothing.  My 
daughter-in-law  sometimes  abuses  and  curses  me, 
and  I say  to  her,  “ How  dare  you  speak  so  to 
me,  when  I am  your  superior,  and  you  are  my 
daughter-in-law  ? I sometimes  reprove  her  harsh- 
ly; but  I do  not  now  curse  her  in  return.”  ’ 

“ I asked  her  if  she  had  ever  procured  and  laid 
up  paper  money  for  use  in  a future  state  (an 
idolatrous  practice  common  among  women).  She 
said,  ‘I  will  deny  nothing;  I did  procure  a 
great  deal  of  this  money;  but  I have  destroyed 
it.  I have  the  greatest  aversion  to  it.  I have 
given  up  everything,  and  my  trust  is  in  Christ, 
and  Christ  alone.’ 

“ I questioned  her  on  the  Trinity,  and  she  gave 
evidence  of  more  clear  and  just  views  on  this 
subject,  than  I would  have  thought  it  possible  for 
one  in  her  circumstances  to  acquire.  1 asked 
her  if  she  had  no  fears  that  her  feelings  might 
change,  and  she  revert  to  the  old  idolatrous 
practices  of  her  people.  She  answered,  promptly 
and  earnestly,  ‘ Never.  I am  old  ; my  mind  is 
fixed  on  heaven,  and  earth  has  no  attractions  for 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  313 


me.’  ‘ But,’  said  I,  £ do  you  think  you  can 
depend  upon  yourself?’  She  said,  ‘No,  but  I 
■will  never  cease  to  pray,  and  Christ  will  never 
forsake  me.’  Such  were  all  her  answers,  clear, 
prompt,  and  full  of  earnestness  and  fervor.  The 
native  elders  asked  her  a few  questions,  after  which 
there  was  a slight  pause.  She  improved  the  oppor- 
tunity to  address  us  much  as  follows : ‘ I trust  you 
will  allow  me  to  be  baptized.  I am  now  seventy 
years  old,  and  I cannot  stay  here  much  longer. 
I want  to  be  numbered  among  God’s  people.  Oh, 
receive  me,  for  my  heart  is  fixed  on  God  and 
heaven.’  This  appeal,  with  the  manner  in 
which  it  was  uttered,  was  most  touching,  and 
went  to  our  hearts.  We  all  felt  like  saying, 
‘ Who  shall  forbid  water,  that  she  should  not  be 
baptized  ? ’ The  notice  was  soon  circulated 
through  the  village  that  Siao  Ah-m  was  about  to 
receive  baptism.  After  dinner,  a large  company 
assembled  to  witness  the  first  baptismal  service 
in  Bao-ko-tah  ; the  other  church-members  having 
been  baptized  in  Ningpo.  The  audience  was 
most  attentive  and  solemn.  Siao  Ah-m  respond- 
ed in  a loud  and  decided  voice  to  the  questions 
proposed,  and  all  were  deeply  interested  and  im- 
pressed. The  occasion  was  improved  to  exhort 
those  present  to  flee  from  the  wrath  to  come,  and 


314 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


lay  hold  of  eternal  life.  After  a few  parting 
words,  we  left  the  village  for  our  boat,  thanking 
God  for  what  he  had  permitted  us  to  see  and 
hear.” 

In  a later  letter  written  from  Ningpo  by  Mr. 
Rankin,  there  is  this  further  mention  of  poor 
Siao  Ah-m : “The  old  blind  woman  lately  baptized 
there  (that  is,  at  Bao-ko-tah)  is  very  poorly,  and 
seems  eager  as  well  as  ready  for  death.  Besides 
her  affliction,  she  is  badly  treated  by  her  daugh- 
ter-in-law, who  lives  with  her.” 

Long  ere  this  those  sightless  eyes  have  opened 
to  witness  the  beauties  and  the  glories  of  the 
many  mansions  prepared  for  her,  and  those  who, 
like  her,  having  been  forgiven  much,  have  loved 
much. 

During  the  month  of  April,  the  American 
Charge  d’affaires,  Commodore  Stribling,  sent 
to  Ningpo  a request  to  Dr.  McCartee  to  accom- 
pany him,  as  interpreter  to  the  United  States 
Legation,  on  a trip  up  the  River  Yiang-ts.  He 
did  so,  and  was  absent  from  home,  I think,  two 
months,  visiting  many  important  cities  and  towns, 
and  gaining  much  valuable  information.  He  was 
sadly  impressed  by  all  he  saw  of  the  insurgents ; 
and,  had  he  previously  entertained  any  hopes  of 
good  to  the  country  in  consequence  of  their  usur- 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  315 


pation,  these  hopes  must  have  been  dissipated  by 
the  scenes  of  distress  and  anarchy  -which  inva- 
riably followed  or  accompanied  them.  He  says, 
in  a published  account  of  this  tour,  describing  the 
once  prosperous  city  of  Nankin,  which  is  beau- 
tifully situated  upon  the  south  bank  of  the  noble 
Yiang-ts  : “ Nankin,  once  a palatial  city,  a res- 
idence of  mighty  kings,  but  now  looking  like 
a desolation  of  many  generations,  wyas  the  next 
city  we  visited.  If  I should  attempt  to  compare 
the  situation  of  the  people  at  these  two  places 
(that  is,  at  Che-kiang,  which  was  still  in  a state 
of  siege,  and  Nankin,  which  had  been  long  in  the 
hands  of  the  rebels),  I should  say  that  those  at 
Che-kiang  were  like  persons  in  all  the  agonies 
of  shipwreck ; while  those  at  Nankin  were  like 
men  left  floating  in  silent  despair  upon  the  sur- 
face of  the  ocean,  after  the  vessel  has  gone 
down,  when  even  the  excitement  of  despair  is 
past.  Just  opposite  to  Nankin,  across  the 
Yiang-ts,  was  once  a large  and  populous  city, 
called  Kiang-yio.  We  saw  the  city  walls  still 
standing;  but  perfect  solitude  reigns  within. 
The  inhabitants  submitted  to  the  insurgents  after 
they  took  Nankin.  They  were  compelled  to 
deliver  up  their  crops,  and  were  put  upon  ra- 
tions. These  were  served  out  scantily,  and  in 


316 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


insufficient  quantities  to  support  life.  They 
murmured,  and  threatened  to  apply  to  the  Im- 
perialists. The  insurgents  heard  of  it ; and  one 
day  the  sun  went  down  upon  the  corpses  of  seven- 
teen thousand  people,  who,  the  day  before,  were 
in  the  midst  of  life.  Some  fifteen  thousand 
escaped  to  the  Imperialist  camp ; but  the  city  has 
lain  desolate  ever  since.” 

It  was  a great  disappointment  to  us  mission- 
aries when  we  were  at  length  obliged  to  open  our 
eyes  to  the  fact  that  Christianity  had  much  more 
to  dread  than  to  hope  for  from  the  insurgents, 
should  they  be  successful  in  their  attempts  to 
gain  the  empire.  Their  obscure  and  insignificant 
origin,  their  rapid  growth  and  progress,  and, 
finally,  their  no  less  rapid  disintegration  and 
destruction,  form  a remarkable  chapter  in  this 
world’s  history.  What  at  first  gave  them  power 
and  attraction  was,  no  doubt,  an  element  of  truth 
derived  from  Christian  missionaries.  Their 
founder,  Hung-sew-tswen,  had  a slight  acquaint- 
ance with  Mr.  Roberts,  an  American  missionary 
at  Canton,  and  either  from  him  or  his  native  as- 
sistant he  received  a few  Christian  books,  which 
he  carried  back  with  him  to  his  home  in  the 
country.  He  appears  to  have  hastily  perused 
them,  and  then  laid  them  away.  Long  after, 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  317 


when  recovering  from  a severe  illness,  some  of 
the  truths  contained  in  these  books  recurred  to 
his  mind,  and  gave  shape  to  his  mental  wander- 
ings; and  these  vagaries  in  turn  moulded  all  his 
future  life.  Having  gained  some  conception  of 
the  one  true  God,  and  of  the  evils  of  the  preva- 
lent idolatry,  he  conceived  the  project  of  estab- 
lishing the  new  religion  and  eradicating  the  old. 
And  when  in  the  course  of  a few  months  he  had 
secured  a few  adherents,  and  also  incurred  per- 
secution in  consequence  of  his  opposition  to  idol- 
atry, he  was  persuaded  that  he  and  his  followers 
were  the  “Israel  of  God,”  whose  mission  it  was 
to  “slay  the  Amalekites,”  sparing  none,  old  nor 
young,  male  nor  female.  Perhaps  at  first  there 
was  much  sincerity  mingled  with  the  religious 
fanaticism  of  this  strange  movement.  But,  if  so, 
of  late  years  it  must  have  sadly  deteriorated. 
Although  iconoclasts,  and  having  done  a great 
deal  to  overthrow  the  prevailing  religions  of 
China,  they  have  had  nothing  much  better  to 
offer  instead.  Hung-sew-tswen,  soon  began  to 
arrogate  to  himself  divine  honors,  claiming  direct 
inspiration  from  God,  and  considering  himself 
the  equal,  or  nearly  so,  of  the  Lord  Jesus 
Christ. 

Although  we  can  but  sympathize  with  the 


313 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


longings  after  a purer  faith,  which  have  been 
evinced  in  the  adherence  of  such  vast  numbers 
to  the  corrupt  form  of  Christianity  found  among 
the  insurgents,  I think  we  can  scarcely  regret 
that  they  have  met  with  a signal  overthrow. 
Although  frequent  attempts  were  made  by  the 
missionaries  to  dwell  among  them,  efforts  for 
their  improvement  were  found  to  be  less  hopeful 
than  those  among  their  more  idolatrous  country- 
men. 

I kept  no  journal,  during  the  few  months  we 
spent  in  Ningpo,  after  our  return  from  Japan; 
but  a pocket  diary  contains  some  jottings  of  that 
period  which  I shall  insert,  stopping  occasionally 
to  explain  certain  allusions  which  could  not 
otherwise  be  understood. 

“ Sunday,  May  5th.  — Mr.  Green  preached  in 
English.  Mr.  Rankin  conducted  the  communion 
service.  I was  so  weak  as  to  be  scarcely  able  to 
sit  up,  and  consequently  could  not  enjoy  the 
exercises.  Mr.  Nevius  preached  on  board  the 
Bethel,  and  spent  the  morning  at  the  boys’ 
school,  where  he  had  service.  While  he  was 
away,  Mr.  Rankin  read  aloud  to  me  one  of  Dr. 
J.  Alexander’s  excellent  sacramental  discourses. 

“Monday,  6th.  — Poorly  again  to  day,  have 
scarcely  any  appetite,  and  am  very  weak,  lying 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  319 


down  almost  all  day.  Went  up  to  Mr.  Green’s 
at  dusk.  Buffaloes  scared  me  in  going  up. 
Dr.  Fisk  called  to  see  me  at  evening.” 

The  “ buffaloes  ” mentioned  above  were  great, 
fierce,  ungainly  creatures,  which  have  frightened 
more  than  one  timid  lady,  and  gentleman  too,  I sus- 
pect, if  they  would  but  own  it.  The  milk  which 
we  used  at  Ningpo  was  all  from  these  water- 
buffaloes.  The  Chinese  there,  and  in  other 
places  where  we  have  lived  or  visited,  use  no 
milk  or  butter.  Indeed,  they  have  a great  aver- 
sion to  both,  as  well  as  to  cheese ; which  they 
regard  with  quite  as  much  disgust  as  we  do  many 
of  their  articles  of  food.  At  Ningpo,  we  buy  a 
small  quantity  of  milk  daily  from  some  China- 
man who  keeps  buffaloes  for  the  purpose  of  sup- 
plying foreigners  with  this  article,  and  our  butter 
is  made  by  shaking  the  milk  thoroughly  in  a 
wide-mouthed  bottle.  It  is  both  expensive  and 
requires  a good  deal  of  labor  when  made  in  this 
way,  and  we  use  but  little  of  it.  But,  though 
very  tasteless  and  perfectly  white,  it  is  a great 
deal  better  than  none  at  all.  The  buffaloes  have 
a natural  antipathy  to  foreigners;  and  some  of 
the  most  ill-natured  among  them,  as  soon  as  they 
catch  a glimpse  of  a “red-haired”  man  or 
woman,  make  after  him  or  her,  in  a most  fero- 


320 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


cious  manner,  and  would  surely  inflict  injury 
were  they  not  restrained. 

“ Friday,  May  10th.  — Mrs.  Knowlton  and  I 
spent  the  day  with  Mrs.  Jones  (of  the  English 
Baptists) . Mr.  N evius  commenced  packing  boxes 
for  going  away.  Weather  rainy  and  warm. 
Zong-we  has  returned  from  San-poh,  where  it 
seems  he  had  formed  apian  for  marrying  a woman, 
who  is  ‘put  away,’  — not  even  divorced.  He 
is  very  angry  with  Mr.  Nevius  because  he  does 
not  approve  it,  and  says  he  will  not  go  with  us 
to  the  North.” 

This  man,  Zong-we,  was  a singular  character. 
A year  or  two  before,  we  had  taken  him  into  our 
family,  and  tried  most  faithfully  to  make  him  a 
good  washerman.  In  this,  however,  we  failed, 
as  he  nearly  ruined  our  clothes,  besides  trying 
us  sorely  by  his  slowness.  He  was  a very  snail 
in  his  motions  ; and,  though  really  young,  went 
about  the  compound  with  a solemn  countenance, 
and  a slow,  stooping  gait,  like  an  old  man  of 
eighty.  Still,  though  not  agreeable,  we  felt 
some  real  affection  and  respect  for  him,  because 
he  was  evidently  an  earnest  and  sincere  Chris- 
tian. He  learned  to  read  the  Romanized  Ningpo 
Colloquial;  and  long  after  we  had  retired  for 
the  night  we  could  invariably  hear  him  in  his 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  321 


room,  which  was  near  ours,  studying  his  Bible, 
or  engaged  in  prayer.  And  he  evidently  became, 
if  not  as  “diligent  in  business”  as  we  could 
have  wished,  at  least  very  “fervent  in  spirit.” 
We  were  not  sure  but  that  he  really  tried  to  do 
his  work  well,  and  so,  though  it  was  very  annoy- 
ing, we  bore  with  him  a long  while,  hoping  for 
improvement.  We  thought  if  he  succeeded  in 
becoming  a good  washerman,  he  could  always  be 
sure  of  employment  among  foreigners ; which 
would  be  a good  thing  for  one  in  his  situation. 

Poor  Zong-we’s  family  relations  had  been  most 
unfortunate  ; and  not  long  after  he  came  to  live 
with  us,  at  the  advice  and  wish  of  his  friends,  he 
procured  a divorce  from  his  miserable  wife.  We 
supposed  that  after  such  an  experience  he  would 
he  content  to  remain  alone,  and  were  not  a little 
surprised  to  find,  just  as  we  were  about  leaving 
for  a new  station  where  we  should  greatly  need 
his  services,  that  he  intended  to  contract  such  a 
marriage  as  the  one  I mentioned  in  my  diary.  I 
think  he  did  not  really  understand  that  the  con- 
templated step  was  a wrong  one.  I cannot  re- 
member just  how  the  affair  was  settled ; but 
Zong-we  did  not  go  with  us  to  Shantung,  of 
which  I was  afterwards  very  glad,  though  at  the 
time  much  inconvenienced  thereby.  He  has 
21 


322 


OUR  LIRE  IN  CHINA. 


since  married,  I do  not  know  whom;  and  the  last 
time  I saw  him,  his  cup  of  bliss  seemed  full.  He 
was  carrying  a fine  large  baby  in  his  arms,  and  I 
presume  his  highest  earthly  ambitions  are  now 
quite  satisfied. 

“Saturday,  May  11th.  — Avery  busy  day. 
Had  carpets  taken  up,  books  packed,  etc.  Towards 
evening,  Mrs.  Green  and  Mrs.  Morrison  went 
with  me  a short  distance  up  the  river  to  call  upon 
my  former  ah-m,  Yiang-ko  siao-yi  (that  is  small 
or  younger  aunt  of  the  Yiang  family).  She  was 
not  at  home,  having  gone  to  some  relatives  of 
hers  in  the  country.  I felt  very  sorry  not  to  see 
her  ; am  also  much  annoyed  by  Zong-we.” 

Yiang-ko  siao-yi,  whom  we  went  to  see,  had 
been  with  me  for  some  time  as  a servant.  She 
accompanied  us  to  Hang-chow,  where  she  proved 
an  invaluable  friend  and  companion.  She  was  a 
faithful  and  consistent  Christian.  Very  few 
Ningpo  women  will  do  the  washing  in  a foreign 
family,  but  this  ah-m  did  ours  beautifully,  and 
was  also  a good  seamstress,  and  she  thus  saved 
me  much  time  and  labor.  While  we  were  in 
Japan  I was  distressed  to  hear  that  she  had  be- 
come insane.  Although  I could  not  expect  to  do 
much  for  her,  I was  anxious  to  see  her  once  more, 
and  so  went,  as  I have  said,  to  the  place  where  I 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  S28 


supposed  she  was  staying.  I did  not  feel  sure 
that  her  friends  were  telling  me  the  truth,  in  say- 
ing that  she  was  absent  from  home,  but  I could 
not  tell  why  they  should  wish  to  prevent  an  in- 
terview. 

“ Sunday,  12th.  — Mr.  Lord  preached  in  Eng- 
lish from  ‘We  have  here  no  continuing  city,’  — 
a very  good  sermon.  I went  with  Mr.  Nevius  to 
Chinese  service  in  the  city  church.  He  preached 
from  Lev.  vii.  9-17.  I feel  very  sadly  to-day, 
thinking  of  this  being  our  last  Sunday  in  Ningpo. 
It  seems  a trial,  almost  more  than  I can  bear, 
that  I should  be  the  means  of  taking  Mr.  Nevius 
away. 

“ Tuesday,  14th.  — In  the  morning  the  church 
had  a farewell  meeting.  Mr.  Nevius  spoke,  and 
also  many  of  the  native  converts.  In  the  afternoon 
there  was  called  a church  meeting,  at  which  Mr. 
Nevius  resigned  the  pastorate.  A request  was 
sent  to  Presbytery  to  have  the  San-poh  members 
formed  into  a separate  church.  We  said  good- 
by  to  many  of  our  native  friends,  especially  the 
women.  Attended  Presbytery  in  the  evening. 

“Wednesday,  15th. — Poorly  all  day,  could 
not  go  to  prayer-meeting.  Mr.  Green  called  to  say 
good-by,  as  he  is  going  to  the  San-poh  stations. 
Mr.  Nevius  sent  for  Dr.  Fish  to  see  me.  (Dr. 


324 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Fish  was  our  medical  attendant  at  that  time.) 
Am  able  to  eat  scarcely  anything  nowadays,  and 
have  constant  nausea. 

“ Friday,  lTth.  — J ust  the  same ; lying  on  the 
couch  all  day ; am  very  weak  and  growing 
weaker.  This  makes  me  think  that  perhaps  we 
really  ought  to  go  away  from  Ningpo.  Our 
passage  is  taken  for  Shanghai  in  the  ‘ Vivid,’ 

• — a small  sailing  vessel,  which  will  leave  to- 
morrow evening.” 

Up  to  this  time  I had  persisted  in  thinking 
that  there  was  no  urgent  necessity  for  going 
elsewhere,  and  this  notwithstanding  the  advice 
of  our  good  physician  and  other  kind  friends. 
But  when  I found  my  strength  all  leaving  me, 
even  before  the  weather  had  become  very  warm, 
I began  to  realize  that  unless  we  left  soon  I should 
probably  not  go  at  all;  and  so  was  somewhat 
more  willing  to  yield  my  will  to  that  of  others. 

The  next  entry,  that  of  May  eighteenth,  is  in 
the  handwriting  of  my  dear  friend  Mr.  Rankin. 
It  brings  back  a flood  of  old  memories.  He  says, 
as  if  it  had  been  written  by  me:  “Found  my- 
self very  weak  this  morning.  There  have  called 

Mrs.  K , Mrs.  Gf , Mrs.  McC , and 

Messrs.  Russell  and  Burdon.  Mrs.  Morrison 
dined  with  us.  Mr.  R.  as  usual  about  the  house, 


INCIDENTS  IN  MISSIONARY  LIFE.  325 


greatly  anxious  to  see  his  wife  and  children.  Left 
his  poor,  forlorn  house  at  five  P.  M.  for  the 
‘ Vivid,’  he  following.  Why  don’t  he  go  home  ? 
Good-by.” 

A great  many  of  the  native  Christians  had 
assembled  to  see  us  off.  They  came  with  us  as 
far  as  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  Mr.  Rankin 
accompanied  us  on  board.  A few  moments  after 
he  had  playfully  penned  the  above  entry  in  my 
diary,  the  “ Vivid  ” got  under  way,  and  he 
left  us.  We  never  saw  him  again  until  he  came 
to  our  house  in  Tung-chow,  a poor,  suffering  in- 
valid, almost  at  his  journey’s  end. 

We  reached  Shanghai  Monday  evening,  May 
twentieth,  and,  as  we  had  so  often  done  before, 
went  directly  to  our  kind  friends,  the  Culbertsons, 
whose  house  was  near  the  landing.  The  next 
day  Mrs.  Mills  and  Mrs.  Farnham  came  over 
from  South  Gate  to  invite  us  to  be  their  guests 
while  we  should  remain  in  Shanghai.  We  ac- 
cepted the  invitation  of  the  latter,  and  spent  the 
time  of  our  stay  under  their  hospitable  roof. 

We  found  great  difficulty  in  securing  a passage 
for  Che-foo,  as  but  few  vessels  were  sailing  for 
that  port,  and  of  those  few  scarcely  any  were 
willing  to  take  passengers. 

At  length,  after  a delay  of  more  than  two 


326 


OUK  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


weeks,  we  sailed  for  Shantung  in  a Bremen  bark 
called  the  “Amalia.”  Our  passage  was  rather 
a slow  one,  having  unfavorable  winds,  and  the 
last  few  days  very  dense  fogs,  so  that  we  were 
often  entirely  uncertain  as  to  our  exact  position, 
and  obliged  to  sail  cautiously.  All  through  the 
night  previous  to  reaching  Che-foo  there  were 
men  on  the  lookout,  and  a horn  was  incessantly 
blown  to  prevent  collision  with  other  vessels. 
When  morning  dawned  we  were  within  sight  of 
the  shore ; and,  having  a strong  and  favorable 
wind,  by  three  P.  M.  we  had  come  to  anchor  in 
the  harbor  of  Che-foo. 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CIIOW. 


£27 


CHAPTER  XH. 

FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW. 

On  the  breaking  out  of  the  late  war  in  the 
United  States,  the  missionaries  connected  with 
Southern  societies  found  themselves  in  a most 
perplexing  and  trying  position.  Although  in 
many  cases  enthusiastically  interested  in  their 
work,  and  very  successful,  they  were,  in  conse- 
quence of  being  cut  off  from  supplies  from 
America,  reduced  to  the  alternative  of  return- 
ing home,  or  engaging  in  secular  business.  One 
or  two  became  interpreters,  and  others  entered 
into  mercantile  operations  of  one  kind  or  an- 
other ; giving,  at  the  same  time,  as  much 
attention  as  possible  to  direct  missionary  work. 
The  qualities  which  had  made  them  efficient  in 
their  previous  employments,  also  gave  them  suc- 
cess in  secular  pursuits.  In  every  case  with 
which  I am  familiar,  a few  years  in  business  suf- 
ficed not  only  to  secure  a present  competence,  but 
also  an  income  which  would  render  them  inde- 


328 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


pendent,  pecuniarily,  in  the  future.  When  the 
necessity  was  removed,  they  gladly  returned  to 
their  life-work  among  the  heathen. 

One  of  those  who  thus  engaged  in  mercantile 
business  was  the  Rev.  J.  Landrum  Holmes. 

He  was  a person  whose  peculiar  loveliness  of 
character  made  him  a favorite  with  every  one. 
Handsome,  talented,  ardent,  with  very  winning 
manners,  he  was  peculiarly  fitted  for  usefulness 
among  the  Chinese,  to  whom  such  qualities  are 
very  attractive. 

The  “Amalia,”  in  which  we  sailed  from 
Shanghai  to  Che-foo,  had  been  chartered  by  Mr. 
Holmes,  who,  with  a younger  brother,  not  a 
clergyman,  had  already  established  a prosperous 
firm  in  that  newly  opened  port  in  the  Province 
of  Shantung. 

Our  fellow-passengers  from  Shanghai  were 
Mrs.  Yates,  of  the  Southern  Baptist  Board,  and 
her  daughter,  Miss  Annie,  who  had  come  to  pass 
the  summer  at  the  North.  Soon  after  the  ship 
cast  anchor  Mr.  Holmes  came  on  board  to  ac- 
company Mrs.  Yates  to  his  house.  Mr.  Nevius 
had  already  gone  on  shore  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  taking  me  off,  expecting  me  to  remain 
on  the  ship  until  his  return ; but  when  Mr. 
Holmes  rather  urged  my  going  in  company  with 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  329 


his  party  in  his  boat,  I consented  to  do  so.  I 
ought  to  have  "waited  for  Mr.  Nevius,  for  there 
was  no  means  of  conveyance  from  the  landing 
to  Mr.  Holmes’  house,  a distance  of  a mile  or 
more,  and  to  my  seeming  at  least  ten.  The  road 
was  one  bed  of  heavy  sand,  into  which  our  feet 
sank  deeply  at  every  step.  The  day  was  warm, 
and,  in  my  weak  state,  I was  entirely  unequal  to 
such  an  exertion.  But  I quite  deserved  my  pun- 
ishment, and  I tried  hard  to  conceal  the  discom- 
fort my  foolishness  occasioned  me.  It  is  need- 
less to  say  that  I did  not  escape  some  words  of 
reproof  for  this  exhibition  of  insubordination. 

Che-foo,  or  Yentai,  as  the  village  is  usually 
called  by  the  natives,  was,  before  it  was  opened 
to  foreign  commerce,  only  a small  fishing  town. 
Tung-chow,  about  sixty  miles  distant,  is  the 
port  originally  ceded  to  foreigners,  but  the  har- 
bor there  not  proving  good,  Che-foo  was  chosen 
instead. 

Although  Shantung,  and  the  more  northern 
port,  Tien-tsin,  had  been  but  a few  months 
opened,  several  missionaries  of  different  societies 
were  already  on  the  ground.  Mr.  Hartwell,  of 
the  Southern  Baptists,  and  Messrs.  Gayley  and 
Danforth,  of  our  own  mission,  had  gone  on  to 
Tung-chow;  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Holmes,  with 


330 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


M.  and  Madame  Bonheur,  and  M.  Roa,  of  the 
French  Protestant  Mission,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Hall,  English  Baptists,  were  settled  at  Che-foo. 

I cannot  say  that  our  Che-foo  friends  had 
secured  very  comfortable  residences.  On  the 
contrary,  they  could  scarcely  have  been  more 
inconvenient,  and  I fear  unhealthy, — at  least 
they  must  have  proved  so  in  any  other  than  a 
good  climate.  Mr.  Holmes’  house,  which  was 
rather  better  than  the  others,  was  a very  low, 
one-storied  Chinese  building,  the  different  rooms 
opening  off  a small  enclosure  or  court.  It  was 
situated  in  the  village,  only  a few  moments’ 
walk,  however,  from  the  country.  I think  the 
house  had  been  supplied  with  board  floors  and 
glass  windows,  to  make  it  fit  for  a foreigner  to 
live  in;  but,  if  so.  the  floors  were  only  a little 
raised  above  the  ground,  and  there  being  no 
Venetians  nor  verandas,  the  hot  summer  sun 
beat  down  upon  it  most  unmercifully.  Not  a 
tree  nor  shrub  relieved  the  eye,  or  sheltered 
from  the  heat.  The  kitchen  was  in  a small  cor- 
ner near  the  entrance.  Mrs.  Holmes’  parlor 
and  sleeping-room  were  on  one  side  of  the  court ; 
on  another,  was  a guest-chamber  ; on  another,  a 
small  apartment  used  by  the  natives  or  foreign- 
ers, as  necessity  required;  and,  on  the  fourth, 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW. 


331 


■was  a store-room  of  some  sort,  and  a chapel,  or 
Chinese  reception-room. 

The  air,  owing,  in  part,  to  the  miserable  way 
of  building  without  outside  windows,  was  impure 
and  stifling,  not  at  all  calculated  to  conduce  to 
the  health  and  vigor  of  those  obliged  to  breathe 
it. 

When  our  fellow-passengers  from  the  ship  and 
ourselves  were  added  to  Mr.  Holmes’  family, 
which  consisted  of  Mrs.  Holmes  and  a little 
daughter,  about  two  years  old,  and  two  Chinese 
boys  whom  they  were  educating,  besides  ser- 
vants, it  seemed  as  if  their  house  was  already 
more  than  full.  But  before  night  there  was 
another  arrival.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Danforth  and 
Mr.  Hartwell  came  from  Tung-chow,  to  seek 
medical  aid  for  Mrs.  Danforth,  who  had  become 
so  ill  that  they  were  afraid  to  remain  longer  in 
Tung-chow,  where  there  is  no  physician.  But 
warm,  sympathizing  hearts  are  always  rich  in 
expedients ; the  parlor  had  to  do  double  duty, 
and  for  the  night  was  turned  into  a bedroom, 
our  kind  host  and  hostess,  having,  however,  to 
sleep  on  the  floor.  It  was  in  vain  that  we 
begged  the  privilege  of  doing  without  a com- 
fortable bed  ourselves,  rather  than  they  should 
be  so  inconvenienced.  I found  out  afterwards, 


332 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


in  some  way,  that  they  had  passed  an  almost 
sleepless  night,  in  consequence  of  the  annoy- 
ance occasioned  by  fleas,  of  which,  a person 
giving  a true  picture  of  Shantung  life,  is  obliged 
often  to  speak.  There  are  greater  trials  in  life, 
of  course,  but  few  more  irritating  and  provoking, 
than  the  petty  persecutions  of  these  miserable, 
remorseless,  relentless  insects. 

I have  not  mentioned  that  there  came  in  com- 
pany with  us  from  Shanghai  a young  Chinese 
girl,  who  was  betrothed  to  a native  Christian, 
associated  with  Mr.  Holmes  in  his  business. 
Their  marriage  took  place  the  second  evening 
after  our  arrival. 

We  were  anxious  to  proceed  at  once  to  Tung- 
chow,  but  were  detained  a day  or  two,  by  diffi- 
culty in  getting  our  boxes  off  the  ship. 

At  length,  all  obstacles  having  been  removed,  we 
started,  about  two  p.  M.,  on  the  twentieth  of  J une. 
Our  party  consisted  only  of  Mr.  Nevius  and 
myself,  our  servant,  Hyiao-fong,  and  the  mule- 
drivers  ; but  being  obliged,  on  account  of  the 
narrow  roads,  to  go  single  file,  it  seemed  quite  a 
cavalcade.  I rode  in  a mule-litter,  Mr.  Nevius 
and  Hyiao-fong  on  horseback,  and  there  were  two 
pack  mules. 

A mule-litter  is  a kind  of  palanquin ; the 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOAU. 


833 


poles  supporting  it  rest  upon  mules,  one  before 
and  one  behind  ; a driver  walks  at  their  side. 
For  a short  distance  it  is  rather  agreeable,  though 
unsociable,  as  a litter  is  intended  only  to  carry 
one  individual.  But,  after  a few  miles,  it  be- 
comes very  fatiguing,  as  it  has  no  springs. and 
no  seat  for  sitting  erect.  The  mules,  as  they 
walk,  impart  a rough,  jolting  motion,  or  some- 
times, when  they  chance  for  a little  distance  to 
keep  step,  a sideways  swing,  which  some  one  has 
most  appropriately  termed,  one  the  “pepper 
box,”  and  the  other  a “ sieve  motion.”  In 
order  to  sit  or  lie  with  any  degree  of  comfort, 
we  place  our  mattresses  on  the  bottom,  with  as 
many  pillows  as  are  at  hand  to  lean  against, 
and  then  vary  our  position  as  much  and  as  often 
as  possible.  But  after  ten  or  twenty  miles  of 
this  sort  of  travelling,  every  bone  and  muscle  in 
the  body  seems  to  enter  a protest,  and  refuses  to 
be  comfortable ; no  matter  how  desirous  we  are 
to  make  the  best  of  our  only  practicable  way  of 
performing  these  long  journeys. 

About  three  miles  out  from  Yentai,  or  Che-foo, 
is  the  village  of  Chukee,  where  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Parker  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Smith,  of  the  American 
Episcopal  Mission,  were  endeavoring  to  form  a 
new  station.  Little  Harry  Parker  had  ridden 


334 


OUR  LIRE  IN  CHINA. 


with  me  in  my  palanquin  from  Yentai,  and  we 
stopped  to  leave  him  with  his  mother;  but  as  we 
had  been  rather  late  in  starting  we  tarried  for 
only  a few  moments’  chat,  and  then  hastened  for- 
ward, so  as  if  possible  to  make  the  first  stage 
of  our  journey  by  daylight. 

The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  Yentai  is  beau- 
tiful, and  indeed  nearly  the  whole  way  from  that 
place  to  Tung-chow  there  is  a pleasing  succes- 
sion of  gently  undulating  hills  and  valleys.  We 
passed  through  several  narrow  ^rivers,  which, 
though  at  certain  seasons  rushing  torrents,  were 
then  either  nearly  or  entirely  dry,  sandy  beds. 
Only  in  one  or  two  instances  had  we  any  difficulty 
in  fording  them.  The  great  defect  of  the  Shan- 
tung scenery  is  the  absence  of  forests.  The 
contour  of  the  hills  is  beautiful,  but  they  seem, 
in  contrast  to  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the 
South,  rather  naked  and  barren. 

It  was  after  dark  when  Ave  reached  an  inn  at 
the  small  village  of  Sing-tien,  where  Ave  were  to 
spend  the  night.  I had  already  had  some  expe- 
rience of  the  discomforts  of  journeying  in  a 
country  without  hotels,  or  other  conveniences  of 
travel  found  in  Western  lands,  but  I had  never 
seen  anything  quite  so  forlorn  as  the  room  in 
which  Ave  passed  that  night.  It  ay  as  at  the  back 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CIIOW.  885 


of  the  stable-yard,  where  the  mules,  horses, 
and  donkeys  were  kept ; and  the  odor  therefrom 
was  almost  intolerable.  It  had  but  a mud  floor, 
and  paper  windows,  which,  like  the  ceiling, 
were  black  with  smoke,  and  literally  festooned 
with  cobwebs.  The  furniture  of  the  room  con- 
sisted of  an  old  board  bedstead,  a rickety  table, 
and  perhaps  a chair,  while  the  dust,  which  cov- 
ered all,  appeared  to  have  been  accumulating  for 
years.  I suspect  the  room  was  seldom  used,  as 
the  muleteers,  who  alone  would  be  likely  to 
patronize  such  an  unpromising  “hotel,”  slept  in 
the  one  large  outer  apartment,  upon  the  ‘ ‘ kang,  ’ ’ 
which  I will  describe  hereafter. 

We  had  brought  our  own  mattresses  and  bed- 
ding, which  we  spread  upon  the  tottering  bed- 
stead, in  the  hope  of  a comfortable  night’s  rest. 
Soon,  however,  the  mules  and  horses  close  by  our 
window  became  uneasy,  kicking  and  screaming, 
hearing  which,  their  drivers  went  out,  and  with 
blows  and  shouts  quieted  them  for  a time.  Re- 
peatedly, in  the  course  of  the  night,  their  services 
were  in  requisition  for  the  same  purpose,  wdiile 
the  fleas,  as  if  emulating  the  quadrupeds  without 
in  their  efforts  to  prevent  our  repose,  made  us 
painfully  aware  of  their  presence  also. 

By  five  o’clock  the  next  morning  we  were 


336 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


again  on  the  road.  At  mid-day  we  stopped  at  a 
much  cleaner  and  more  comfortable  inn,  where 
we  took  dinner  and  rested  until  two  o’clock.  At 
six  in  tire  evening  we  were  nearing  Tung-chow. 
I was  forcibly  reminded  at  that  time,  as  often 
afterwards,  when  approaching  the  city,  of  repre- 
sentations and  descriptions  of  Jerusalem.  Lying 
in  nearly  the  same  latitude,  with  hills  and  moun- 
tains in  its  immediate  neighborhood,  its  walls 
and  parapets  running  now  low  through  a valley, 
now  up  over  a hill-top,  with  occasional  towers 
and  higher  buildings  rising  above  the  ordinarily 
low  structures,  and  particularly  the  clear  blue 
sky,  against  which  the  walls  and  hills  stand  out 
in  bold  relief,  it  has  often  suggested  to  my  mind 
the  holy  city,  without,  however,  any  such  tender 
associations  as  must  ever  cling  to  “Zion  the 
beautiful.” 

Tung-chow  is  situated  upon  the  northern  shore 
of  the  Shantung  promontory.  Although  a pre- 
fectural  city,  it  is  comparatively  small,  having 
somewhat  less  than  one  hundred  thousand  inhab- 
itants. It  in  reality  consists  of  two  separate 
cities,  each  completely  enclosed  with  a wall. 
The  smaller  one  lies  close  on  the  sea-shore,  and 
is  called  the  Swai-tsing,  or  water  city ; the  larger 
is  so  near  at  hand  that  a stone  could  be  flung 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW. 


337 


from  its  wall  to  the  other.  The  streets  of  Tung- 
chow,  though  wider  than  those  of  southern  towns, 
still  scarcely  deserve  to  be  called  roads.  They 
are  paved  with  stone,  and  are  very  rough.  One 
street  is  paved  almost  entirely  with  old  discard- 
ed millstones,  which,  as  they  are  now  worn 
smooth  and  slippery,  are  very  precarious  foot- 
holds for  horses  or  mules. 

Some  distance  from  the  city  Mr.  Hartwell’s 
native  assistant  met  us,  having  brought  out  Mr. 
Gayley’s  horse  for  my  husband  to  ride  back,  as 
it  was  a better  one  than  that  he  had  thus  far 
been  riding.  As  he  passed  me,  in  order  to  reach 
the  city  sooner  than  my  slow-walking  mules 
could  perform  the  distance,  my  animals  started 
and  ran  away  with  me  ; not  very  far,  nor  very 
fast  however,  as  the  driver  succeeded  in  stopping 
them  before  they  had  done  other  damage  than  to 
break  the  harness,  and  to  alarm  me  somewhat. 

Mr.  Nevius  had  a similar  adventure.  As  he 
was  passing  through  the  suburbs,  a vicious  mule, 
tied  to  a feeding-trough,  broke  loose,  and,  drag- 
ging part  of  the  trough  with  it,  rushed  after  Mr. 
Nevius.  Its  frightened  owner  begged  him  to  get 
out  of  the  way  as  fast  as  possible  ; so  off  they 
went  pell-mell  flying  through  the  streets.  How  the 
race  ended  I do  not  know,  but  before  I reached 
22 


838 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


the  city  Mr.  ISTcvius  had  found  our  friends,  and 
come  back  to  accompany  me  in. 

I remember  well  that  I was  not  a little  curious 
as  to  the  kind  of  place  in  which  I should  find  our 
friends  located,  and  my  husband  would  not  satisfy 
my  curiosity  in  the  least;  in  fact,  he  seemed  rather 
to  enjoy  my  anxiety,  and  the  relief  I felt,  when 
we  passed  a house  of  particularly  forbidding 
exterior,  to  find  that  we  did  not  stop  there.  At 
length  a foreign  lady  or  two  standing  in  the 
street  showed,  without  words,  that  our  journey 
must  be  over;  and  at  once  my  mules  passed 
through  a narrow  gate,  between  high  stone  walls, 
into  a paved  court,  where  the  litter  was  taken 
off,  and  I was  delighted  to  find  myself  at  the 
Hartwells.  The  warm,  cordial  welcome  given 
us  by  them,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gay  ley,  was  truly 
delightful.  Their  house,  though  not  at  all  in 
foreign  style,  was  sufficiently  roomy  for  a moder- 
ately large  family,  and,  compared  with  those  oc- 
cupied by  the  missionaries  at  Yentai,  was  pleasant. 

Our  furniture  and  all  heavy  articles  had  been 
sent  in  a junk  from  Che-foo,  and  arrived  the 
next  morning  after  we  reached  Tung-chow. 

For  several  weeks  the  Gay  leys  and  ourselves 
boarded  with  the  Hartwells,  but  we  felt  sorry  to 
impose  such  a burden  upon  Mrs.  Hartwell,  who, 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  339 


though  most  patient  and  hospitable,  was  very  deli- 
cate and  unfit  for  so  much  additional  care.  But 
we  had  great  difficulty  in  procuring  houses.  A 
suitable  and  pleasant  one  was  then  being  repaired 
to  be  occupied  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Danforth.  This 
was  the  Kwan-yin  tang , temple  of  Kwan-yin, 
the  Goddess  of  Mercy ; where  we  afterwards 
passed  many  happy  days.  The  only  other  house, 
which  was  at  that  time  available,  was  a very 
poor  one,  next  door  to  Mr.  Hartwell’s.  As  that 
was  better  than  none,  it  was  rented,  and  carpen- 
ters and  masons  set  to  work  repairing  and  put- 
ting it  in  order.  It  was  decided  that  the  Gayleys 
and  we  should  occupy  it  together.  In  the  mean 
while  we  all  remained  at  Mr.  Hartwell’s. 

There  were  from  the  first  encouraging  indica- 
tions that  the  progress  of  missionary  work  in 
Tung-chow  would  be  more  rapid  than  it  had 
been  in  the  older  stations  at  the  South. 

Mr.  Nevius,  who,  fortunately,  had  already 
some  knowledge  of  Mandarin,  was  able  at  once 
to  commence  preaching  and  conversing  with  the 
natives.  For  the  first  few  months  I could  study 
but  little,  as  my  health  continued  poor,  and  my 
voice  was  so  weak  that  strangers  could  scarcely 
hear  me.  But  gradually  I became  accustomed 
to  the  dialect.  Tsao,  the  native  assistant,  who 


340 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


had  accompanied  us  from  Ningpo,  being  an  ex- 
cellent Mandarin  speaker,  gave  me  many  useful 
hints  ; and,  almost  before  I knew  it,  I found  my- 
self able  to  communicate  with  the  natives  in  that 
dialect. 

The  Mandarin,  or  Court  dialect,  is  spoken  all 
over  the  northern  provinces,  but  it  varies  much 
in  different  places.  Each  large  city  has  its  pe- 
culiarities of  pronunciation  more  or  less  marked, 
and  its  residents  can  be  easily  recognized  by  per 
sons  familiar  with  the  various  places.  The  ver- 
nacular of  Tung-chow  is  real  Mandarin,  but  it 
has  numerous  sounds  and  phrases,  never  heard 
in  Pekin,  or  where  what  is  called  standard  Man- 
darin is  spoken. 

As  my  health  improved,  I began  to  study  in 
earnest ; and,  if  every  one  enjoyed  it  as  much  as 
I did,  the  acquisition  of  new  languages  would  be 
no  hardship. 

It  was  not  until  the  middle  of  July  that  we 
were  able  to  remove  into  our  own  house,  and  even 
then  the  repairs  were  not  completed.  The  day 
was  intensely  hot,  the  thermometer  standing  at 
over  90°.  In  the  afternoon,  as  I was  resting  in 
a small  bedroom  opening  off  of  our  parlor  or 
study,  a Mandarin  from  a distant  city  called,  ac- 
companied by  rather  a numerous  suite.  Mr. 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  341 


Nevius  received  him  in  the  outer  room.  As 
there  was  no  egress  from  the  one  where  I was 
lying  except  through  that,  I was  virtually  a 
prisoner.  This  I would  not  have  minded  at  all, 
had  it  not  been  that  our  only  window,  which 
opened  on  a court,  had  as  yet  no  curtain  nor 
screen,  and  before  it  the  Mandarin’s  retainers 
stationed  themselves,  intent  upon  getting  a view 
of  the  foreign  lady.  They  seemed  to  enjoy  the 
tableau  so  thoroughly  as  quite  to  forget  the  im- 
propriety of  their  conduct.  I was  much  annoyed, 
but  obliged  to  ignore  their  presence.  Had 
they  come  back  a few  hours  later  they  would 
have  found  a closely  curtained  window. 

Mrs.  Gayley  and  I kept  house  together,  divid- 
ing the  work  and  the  responsibility.  Our  ser- 
vants, with  the  exception  of  Hiao-fong,  were  all 
quite  untrained ; and  even  he  had  not  been 
taught  either  cooking  or  washing.  Had  our 
house  been  more  conveniently  arranged  this  would 
have  mattered  less ; as  it  was,  we  were  taxed 
almost  beyond  our  powers  of  endurance. 

As  that  place  was  only  a sample  of  numerous 
private  dwellings  in  Tung-chow,  I will  describe 
it  as  nearly  as  I can  remember  it. 

The  high  stone  wall  against  the  street  formed 
the  outer  wall  of  our  rooms.  There  was  no 


342 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


window  in  it  when  we  went  there,  but  one  was 
soon  after  opened,  to  allow  a freer  circulation  of 
air.  Just  back  of  our  room  was  a Iona:  court, 
at  each  side  of  which  was  a small  room,  one  a 
chapel,  and  one  Mr.  Gayley’s  study  ; and  beyond 
was  Mrs.  Gay  ley's  parlor,  with  a bedroom  open- 
ing out  of  it.  Then  came  another  and  larger 
court,  which  was  the  only  vacant  space  on  the 
premises  for  drying  clothes,  and  the  like.  Next 
was  the  dining-room,  with  a closed  passage-way 
at  one  side,  and  between  it  and  the  kitchen  was 
a small  court.  Behind  the  kitchen  was  another 
small  house  where  the  servants  slept.  The  rooms 
at  the  back  were  all  very  contracted,  and  were 
entirely  without  a pantry  or  closets  of  any  sort. 
Whenever  I went  from  my  room  to  the  kitchen, 
I had  to  go  through  Mrs.  Gayley’s  parlor,  and 
three  separate  courts ; which,  either  in  the  hot 
sun  or  in  rainy  weather,  was  no  trifling  journey. 
Some  one  suggested  riding  a donkey  back  and 
forth,  but  I doubted  if  even  Mrs.  Gayley's 
amiability  would  have  been  proof  against  the 
intrusion  of  that  long-eared  quadruped,  making 
frequent  transits  through  her  best  room.  All 
the  water  used  on  the  premises  had  to  be 
brought  from  without,  and  that  for  drinking  was 
carried  a distance  of  nearly  half  a mile.  In 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TURG-CHOIV.  343 


our  kitclieu.  which,  bj  the  way,  was  a miserable 
place,  without  a board  floor  or  glass  windows,  we 
sometimes  used  a foreign  cooking-stove,  and 
sometimes  a native  range.  We  were  much  in- 
convenienced from  having  no  ’guest-room,  but 
Mr.  Gay  ley’s  study  was  frequently  used  as  one, 
and  occasionally  the  dining-room,  in  which  case 
we  took  our  meals  in  Mrs.  Gayley’s  parlor.  But 
notwithstanding  these  various  drawbacks,  we 
passed  a very  cheerful  summer.  The  chapel  in 
both  Mr.  Hartwell’s  house  and  ours  was  daily 
opened  for  services  ; and  within  only  a few  weeks 
there  were  several  hopeful  inquirers. 

The  window,  which  I have  mentioned  as  having 
been  opened  in  the  front  wall,  admitted,  besides 
air,  sounds  and  scenes  not  always  desirable. 
Every  few  days  a fair  was  held  on  the  street, 
just  at  that  point.  Numbers  of  farmers,  coming 
in  from  the  country  with  their  produce  for  sale, 
ranged  themselves  along  on  each  side  of  the  road, 
each  man  with  a mule  or  donkey  behind  him, 
and  bags  of  wheat,  Indian  corn,  beans,  etc.,  in 
front  of  him,  opened  for  inspection.  This  occa- 
sioned great  noise  and  confusion  : the  cries  of  the 
buyers  and  sellers,  mingling  with  the  unmusical 
braying  of  the  donkeys  and  mules,  were  often 
almost  deafening.  Occasionally  some  inquisitive 


344 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


person  would  manage  to  raise  himself  to  a suffi- 
cient height  to  take  a peep  through  our  window, 
which  had  been  purposely  made  at  such  an  eleva- 
tion as  not  to  allow  passers-by  to  gaze  within. 

During  the  month  of  August  I was  very  un- 
well, having  a return  of  my  throat  affection  and 
other  ailments,  brought  on,  my  husband  was 
sure,  by  over-exertion  in  attending  to  the  wash- 
ing department.  For  several  weeks  I was  un- 
able to  speak  except  in  a whisper,  and  was 
obliged  to  remit  study ; and  could  do  but  little 
work  of  any  sort.  Both  the  Hartwells  and  Gay- 
leys  had  left  Shanghai  in  poor  health,  but  their 
restoration  after  reaching  Tung-chow  was  very 
rapid.  We  were  not  at  all  disappointed  in  the 
climate.  Though  the  weather  during  some 
months  of  summer  was  hot,  the  effect  of  the 
heat  was  unlike  that  of  either  Shanghai  or 
Ningpo.  In  a good  foreign-built  house  I think 
we  should  not  have  suffered  from  it  at  all.  The 
atmosphere  was  clear  and  bracing,  and  for  many 
weeks  there  was  scarcely  any  rain.  Day  after 
day  the  sun  rose  in  a cloudless  sky,  while  the 
fresh  sea-breezes  prevented  the  heat  from  becom- 
ing extreme. 

Every  one  seemed  to  be  gaining  in  health  ex- 
cept poor  Mrs.  Danforth.  For  her,  the  change 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  345 


to  this  favorable  climate  brought  no  relief.  She 
and  her  husband  remained  at  Yentai ; but  from 
week  to  week  we  heard  of  her  failing  strength. 
She  had  looked  forward  with  delight  to  being 
settled  in  a quiet  home  of  their  own,  and  fancied 
that  the  realization  of  her  wish  might  restore  her 
wasted  energies.  Although  to  a person  so  ill  as 
she,  the  long,  hard  ride  from  Che-foo  to  Tung- 
chow,  with  no  more  comfortable  conveyance  than 
a mule-litter,  seemed  utterly  impracticable,  her 
friends  at  length  yielded  to  her  earnest  desire, 
and  the  journey  was  undertaken ; and,  in  fact, 
she  did  not  seem  injured  by  it.  But  one  glance 
at  her  emaciated  form  was  sufficient  to  convince 
one  not  blinded  by  hope,  that  her  days  on  earth 
were  nearly  ended. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Danforth  went  at  once  to  the 
Kwan-yin  temple,  where  one  room  had  been  com- 
pleted, and  hastily  put  in  order.  The  poor  in- 
valid was  laid  upon  her  bed,  from  which  she  was 
never  again  to  rise.  Masons  and  carpenters 
were  at  work  close  at  hand ; but  she  seemed 
scarcely  to  notice  them,  so  happy  was  she  to  be 
at  home.  It  was  not  in  our  power  to  procure  for 
her  the  many  delicacies,  and  almost  necessaries, 
which  are  found  in  sick-rooms  in  our  own  coun- 
try. As  I look  back  at  her  long  and  painful 


346 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


illness,  my  heart  aches  to  think  of  the  many 
trials  and  deprivations  to  which  she  was  subject. 

She  failed  very  rapidly ; and,  only  two  weeks 
after  reaching  Tung-chow,  she  went  to  join  the 
blessed  company  of  the  “ just  made  perfect  ” in 
heaven.  Could  we  then  have  looked  forward  a 
few  years  into  the  future,  how  clearly  we  would 
have  understood  that  she  was  indeed  “taken 
away  from  the  evil  to  come.” 

When  all  but  her  husband  had  relinquished 
hope  of  Mrs.  Danforth’s  recovery,  and  her  other 
friends  were  daily  anticipating  her  departure,  we 
remembered  sadly  that  we  were  strangers  in  a 
strange  land,  without  even  a spot  in  which  we 
might  bury  our  dead.  It  became  necessary  at 
once  to  make  definite  arrangements ; and  the 
gentlemen  of  the  two  missions  went  to  the  offi- 
cers to  ask  to  be  allowed  to  purchase  some  place 
suitable  to  be  used  as  a mission  graveyard. 
They  were  kindly  received,  and  the  magistrate 
readily  gave  the  assurance  that  any  ground  which 
might  be  selected  for  such  a purpose  should  be 
secured  to  us. 

Close  by  the  sea-shore,  about  a mile  from  our 
dwellings,  are  bold,  treeless  bluffs,  too  rocky  and 
bleak  for  cultivation.  Though  close  to  the  water- 
city,  they  are  seldom  visited,  and  are  quiet  even 


FIRST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  347 


to  loneliness.  One  of  these  bluffs  was  chosen  for 
our  graveyard.  The  ascent  to  it  from  the  city 
is  gradual ; but  on  the  other  sides  it  is  abrupt, 
and  difficult  of  access,  while  at  its  base  the 
ocean  breaks  with  one  continuous  sound,  — now 
soft  and  low,  and  again,  when  the  winds  sweep 
over  its  bosom,  like  a pealing  anthem  of  some 
grand  cathedral  service.  Never  was  mass  or  re- 
quiem said  or  sung  more  deep  and  tender  than 
the  ocean’s  dirge  as  it  moans  and  sobs  on  the 
rocky  beach  of  our  Hill  Cemetery  at  Tung-chow. 
The  view  from  the  summit  is  lovely.  Far  off  to 
the  north  and  east  stretch  the  blue  waters  of 
the  Gulf  of  Pechele ; while  to  the  west  and 
south  are  the  two  cities,  and  a wide  extent  of 
country  highly  cultivated  and  picturesque. 

To  this  sweet  spot,  on  the  evening  of  the 
fifteenth  of  September,  we  brought  all  that  was 
mortal  of  our  dear  Mrs.  Danforth. 

Hers  was  the  first  grave  of  any  Protestant 
missionary  in  the  Province  of  Shantung. 


348 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XIH. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  SHANTUNG. — INCURSION  OF  THE 
REBELS. 

China,  in  the  Eastern  Hemisphere,  corre- 
sponds in  many  striking  respects  to  the  United 
States,  in  the  Western.  Its  area  is  about  the 
same,  and,  lying  in  nearly  the  same  degrees  of 
latitude,  it  has  similar  variations  of  climate,  as 
also  of  natural  productions. 

To  a person  who  has  lived  long  in  Ningpo, 
the  change  from  that  region  to  the  Shantung 
Province  is  very  great.  Ningpo  has  been  de- 
scribed as  “ very  hot  in  summer,  very  cold  in 
winter,  and  damp  the  year  round;  ” while  it 
would  not  be  inaccurate  to  say  of  Shantung, 
that  it  is  not  extremely  warm  in  summer,  nor 
very  cold  in  winter  ; and,  with  the  exception  of 
a few  weeks  in  summer,  is  dry  the  year  round. 
In  Ningpo,  the  mercury  seldom  sinks  to  the 
freezing-point,  and  never  more  than  a few  de- 
grees below  it ; while  in  Shantung,  it  sometimes 


DESCRIPTION  OE  SHANTUNG. 


349 


falls  nearly  to  zero.  But  in  Ningpo,  owing  to 
the  debilitating  effects  of  the  summer’s  heat, 
and  the  dampness  and  frequent  changes,  we  are 
more  susceptible  to  cold  than  in  the  North,  and 
require  even  warmer  clothing. 

The  eastern  part  of  the  Shantung  Province 
is  a rocky  promontory,  bounded  on  the  north 
by  the  Gulf  of  Pechelee,  and  on  the  south  and 
east  by  the  Yellow  Sea.  It  is  very  mountainous ; 
but  in  the  vicinity  of  Tung-chow  the  mountains 
are  not  usually  high.  The  valleys  are  fertile 
and  richly  cultivated.  Although  the  population 
is  not  nearly  as  dense  as  in  the  southern  prov- 
inces, the  last  census  estimated  it  at  27,000,000, 
— nearly  three-fourths  that  of  the  whole  United 
States. 

It  is  not  common,  either  in  the  north  or  south 
of  China,  to  see  solitary  farm-houses.  The 
people  usually  dwell,  either  in  cities  and  villages, 
or  in  the  numerous  little  hamlets  scattered  over 
the  plains,  or  nestling  among  the  hills. 

I was  much  disappointed  in  the  roads  of 
Shantung,  which  I had  heard  described  as  really 
road-like,  contrasting  favorably  with  those  of 
Southern  China.  They  are  wider,  to  be  sure, 
but  ill  made,  rough,  and  disagreeable ; and,  in 
the  parts  which  I have  seen,  not  fit  for  foreign 


850 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


carriages  of  any  description.  The  natives  have 
no  wheeled  vehicles,  with  the  exception  of  a 
kind  of  cart,  which,  by  some  strange  misnomer, 
is  often  called  by  foreigners  a “chariot.”  I 
suspect  it  may  bear  a striking  likeness  to  the 
“chariots”  of  poor  “ Pharaoh  and  his  host;  ” 
but  I doubt  if,  since  that  time,  anything  quite 
so  clumsy  and  ungainly  has  borne  so  pretentious 
a name.  This  cart  is  a small,  covered  box, 
without  seats  or  springs,  and  rests  upon  two 
great  heavy,  wooden  wheels.  You  seldom  see 
these  “chariots”  at  Tung-chow,  but  on  the 
plains  they  are  more  common.  Horses,  mules, 
and  donkeys  are  all  used  as  beasts  of  burden, 
but  horses  are  not  very  numerous.  You  see 
comparatively  few  sedan  chairs  in  Shantung, 
though  they  are  used  on  certain  occasions. 
Women  usually  ride  on  horseback,  or  on  mules 
or  donkeys,  led  by  a servant.  They  always  sit 
astride.  A thick  veil  covers  their  faces;  but 
they  are,  of  course,  much  more  exposed  than 
they  would  be  in  covered  sedans. 

The  soil  of  Shantung  varies  in  the  different 
localities.  Its  productions  are  very  like  those 
of  the  northern  and  middle  States  of  America. 
Millet,  sorghum,  wheat,  and  maize  are  extensive- 
ly cultivated.  Sweet  potatoes,  and  numerous 


DESCRIPTION  OE  SHANTUNG. 


S51 


varieties  of  beans,  together  with  onions,  turnips, 
cabbages,  leeks,  melons,  cucumbers,  radishes, 
etc.,  etc.,  are  found  in  abundance. 

The  fruits  of  Shantung  are  very  poor,  many 
of  them  scarcely  fit  for  use.  There  are  apples, 
pears,  peaches,  plums,  grapes,  and  apricots,  of 
which  only  the  last  two  compare  at  all  favorably 
with  the  same  fruits  at  home. 

As  I have  elsewhere  remarked,  there  are  few 
forest  or  shade  trees  in  Shantung ; and  not 
nearly  as  many  nor  as  beautiful  flowers  as  are 
found  at  the  South.  Still,  the  hills  at  certain 
seasons  are  almost  covered  with  sweet,  modest 
wild  flowers.  I would  not,  by  any  means,  give 
the  impression  that  Shantung  is  a treeless, 
barren  country  ; but  only  that  it  presents  fewer 
floral  beauties  than  J apan,  or  the  more  southern 
and  moister  climates  of  China. 

I do  not  think  the  birds  of  Shantung  are 
very  numerous,  but  I remember,  among  them, 
some  sweet  singers ; particularly,  a species  of 
lark,  which,  soaring  in  mid  air,  pauses  on  the 
wing,  and  warbles  forth  a song  which  fills  the 
air  with  melody. 

The  natives  of  this  part  of  China  are  gener- 
ally much  larger  in  stature  than  the  Southern- 
ers. They  are  also  a hardier  race,  capable  of 


352 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


enduring  great  exertion.  We  could  but  notice 
the  large  proportion  of  persons  of  advanced  age, 
as  compared  with  that  class  at  Ningpo. 

The  houses  of  Tung-chow  are  built  of  stone 
and  brick.  They  are  almost  invariably  of  one 
story.  They  seldom  have  board  floors ; and 
their  windows  are  simply  lattice-work,  with 
paper  pasted  over  it.  The  furniture  is  very 
scanty,  consisting  merely  of  a few  tables,  stands, 
and  chairs;  besides  the  inevitable  “kang,” 
which  is  the  bed  by  night,  and  the  divan  and 
lounging-place  for  the  whole  family  by  day. 
Women,  when  at  leisure,  or  when  engaged  in 
sewing,  usually  sit  a la  Turk  on  their  “ kangs;  ” 
and  they  are  also  apt  to  take  their  meals  there. 
The  “ kang  ” is  a platform  of  mason  work  about 
two  feet  high,  varying  in  size  according  to  the 
wants  of  the  family.  It  is  sometimes  not  larger 
than  an  ordinary  bedstead,  but  very  frequently 
occupies  the  whole  side  of  a room,  being  per- 
haps twelve  feet  long,  and,  at  least,  six  wide. 
It  is  so  constructed  that  fire  can  be  kindled  be- 
low, with  a flue  for  carying  the  heat  and  smoke 
to  every  part,  so  that  it  becomes  thoroughly 
warm,  though  not  hot.  As  it  retains  its  warmth 
a long  while,  persons  sleeping  upon  it  are  not 
likely  to  suffer  from  cold,  even  though  they  may 


DESCRIPTION  OF  SHANTUNG. 


853 


have  but  little  covering.  The  heat  of  these  hangs 
is  to  me  very  disagreeable,  but  the  natives  seem 
to  enjoy  it. 

Although  the  climate  of  the  northern  provin- 
ces is  so  cold,  no  use  is  made  of  stoves  nor  fire- 
places, nor  of  braziers,  such  as  are  common  in 
Japan  ; the  nearest  approach  to  them  being  these 
hangs,  which  I have  just  described.  In  the 
cold  weather,  the  natives  wear  thichly  wadded 
garments,  adding  one  to  another  until  they  re- 
semble walhing  feather-beds.  To  heep  their  feet 
and  hands  warm,  they  often  use  foot-stoves,  and 
tiny  hand-stoves,  which  are  both  pretty  and  use- 
ful. Indeed,  I do  not  hnow  what  the  poor  wo- 
men would  do  without  them.  Fuel  is  very 
scarce  and  expensive  in  China  ; that  is,  in  those 
places  where  we  have  lived.  The  natives  resort 
to  all  sorts  of  expedients  to  secure  enough  for 
the  simplest  cooking  purposes.  Dry  grass  and 
roots,  and  straw  are  often  used  for  boiling  the  tea- 
kettle, and  straw  is  always,  I believe,  burned  in 
the  kangs.  You  very  often  see  a little  girl  sit- 
ting on  the  floor  beside  these  oven-like  beds,  or 
the  cooking  range,  thrusting  straw  into  the  open- 
ing, a little  at  a time,  keeping  up  a steady  blaze. 

Foreigners  in  China  burn  both  wood  and  coal. 
I scarcely  know  which  is  preferable. 

23 


354 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA, 


There  are  coal  mines  in  various  parts  of  the 
empire,  but  as  yet  they  have  been  very  poorly 
developed.  I presume  they  will  hereafter  be- 
come a source  of  revenue  to  the  government, 
as  well  as  a great  convenience  to  the  inhabitants, 
in  the  scarcity  of  fuel  which  is  so  characteristic 
of  the  country. 

It  was  in  the  Province  of  Shantung  more  than 
two  thousand  years  ago  that  the  great  Confu- 
cius and  his  distinguished  pupil  Mencius  were 
born.  u The  tomb  of  the  former,  who  died 
B.  c.  479,  at  Kiuh-fau,  is  a majestic  monument, 
embosomed  in  a forest  of  oaks,  whose  gloomy 
shades  are  well  fitted  for  nourishing  the  respect 
and  homage  paid  his  memory.” 

Little  commerce  is  carried  on  between  Shan- 
tung and  the  adjacent  countries.  There  is  some 
intercourse  between  Tung-chow  and  Corea,  and 
Kwan-tung  across  the  Pechelee  Bay,  but  there 
are  very  few  junks,  or  sea-going  vessels  of  any 
kind,  as  compared  with  the  southern  provinces. 

I have  given  this  hasty  glance  at  the  country 
and  people  of  Shantung,  in  order  that  any  one 
who  has  followed  our  wanderings  thus  far  may 
be  able  to  form  a somewhat  definite  idea  of  our 
new  and  last  China  home.  We  found  the  peo- 
ple simple-minded,  and  unsophisticated;  and  at 


DESCRIPTION  OF  SHANTUNG. 


355 


first  remarkably  well-disposed  towards  foreign- 
ers. 

A few  days  after  the  death  of  Mrs.  Danforth 
we  removed  to  the  Kwang-yin  tang  (that  is, 
Temple  of  the  Goddess  of  Mercy).  This  was  a 
small  establishment  a short  distance  from  the 
other  mission  houses.  At  that  time  it  belonged 
to  an  old  Buddhist  priest  who  was  an  opium- 
smoker,  and,  like  many  of  his  class,  in  impover- 
ished circumstances ; so  that  he  was  desirous  of 
making  some  money  even  at  the  sacrifice  of  pride 
and  prejudice.  It  was  only  this  which  induced 
him  to  rent  or  lease  us  the  temple,  on  such  terms 
that  our  mission  will  be  able  to  retain  it  for  an 
indefinite  term  of  years.  We  would  have 
preferred  on  most  accounts  to  live  in  a more  busy 
and  populous  part  of  the  city ; but  still  this  place 
answered  our  purpose  very  well. 

Kwang-yin  tang  was  on  three  sides  surrounded 
by  vegetable  gardens,  only  a small  corner  of 
which  was  rented  by  us ; while  the  remainder 
was  cultivated  by  outside  persons  with  whom  we 
had  no  connection.  There  was  rather  a preten- 
tious porch  and  gate  at  the  main  entrance  on  the 
street,  but  we  nearly  always  made  use  of  a small 
door  a little  at  one  side.  A high  wall  separated 
the  outer  court  from  the  inner  one,  on  three  sides 


356 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


of  -which  were  our  apartments.  The  main  room 
of  the  temple  was  at  first  a cheerless,  dark  place, 
with  several  idols,  large  and  small,  occupying  a 
prominent  position  on  a raised  platform  at  the 
back  of  the  room.  When  we  went  there  to  live, 
the  whole  was  so  changed  that  it  could  scarcely 
ha  ve  been  recognized  as  a temple  at  all.  A par- 
tition divided  the  once  large  room  into  two 
smaller  ones,  which  we  used  as  parlor  and  bed- 
room. The  idols  had  all  been  enclosed  with 
mason  work,  neatly  plastered  and  whitewashed. 
A large  glass  window  opened  from  both  rooms 
upon  the  court  in  front,  and  the  vegetable  garden 
behind,  and  a good  board  floor  had  taken  the 
place  of  the  old  one  of  brick,  or  rather  had 
been  placed  a little  distance  above  the  bricks. 
On  the  court  side  was  a wide  veranda ; on  the 
right  and  left  were  two  other  good-sized  build- 
ings, which  served  nicely  for  dining  and  guest 
rooms.  The  kitchen  was  in  a corner  of  another 
tiny  court;  and  Mr.  Nevius’  study  was  a small, 
low  room  on  a court  in  the  opposite  corner.  In 
order  to  go  either  to  the  dining  or  guest  room, 
kitchen  or  study,  in  fact,  to  any  part  of  the 
house  besides  our  two  rooms,  we  had  to  go  some 
little  distance  in  the  open  air.  The  apartments 
which  were  afterwards  used  for  the  school,  and 


DESCRIPTION  OP  SHANTUNG. 


357 


also  those  occupied  by  the  servants,  were  on  the 
sides  of  the  outside  court,  and  in  a building 
which  we  had  erected,  situated  at  a still  further 
remove. 

I cannot  say  that  I should  recommend  the 
Kwang-yin  tang  as  a perfect  model  for  convenience 
or  elegance.  In  stormy,  or  cold  weather,  it  was 
neither  safe  nor  agreeable  to  have  to  run  through 
the  rain  or  snow,  when  I was  obliged  to  attend 
to  domestic  matters  in  the  kitchen,  or  to  oversee 
the  girls  in  the  school-room.  Still,  with  all  its 
disadvantages,  I liked  the  place.  Just  in  front 
of  the  dining-room  door  was  an  old  arbor  vitae, 
so  tall  and  aspiring  that  it  seemed  as  if  deter- 
mined to  see  out  beyond  the  narrow  confines  of 
its  little  enclosure ; while  opposite  it  was  a pretty 
young  willow  with  graceful  branches  sweeping 
the  ground.  These  two  trees,  the  only  ones  in 
the  court,  were  great  pets  of  mine.  The  arbor 
vitae  was  a favorite  with  other  living  creatures 
also,  the  magpies,  in  particular,  often  congre- 
gating there  and  chattering  with  very  boisterous 
voices. 

It  seems  almost  trifling  to  describe  so  minutely 
our  house  and  its  surroundings,  but  as  some  per- 
sons have  expressed  a desire  to  know  “just  what 
kind  of  houses  we  live  in,  and  how  they  are  fur- 


358 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


nished,”  I will  venture  still  further  to  say 
that  our  parlor  had  in  winter  a common  “ in- 
grain ” carpet,  and  a foreign  “ gas-consuming  ” 
air-tight  stove;  a mirror,  and  several  good  pic- 
tures on  the  walls ; a large  American  rocking- 
chair,  and  some  other  easy-chairs,  and  an 
etagere ; besides  a chintz-covered  lounge,  and  a 
Japanese  cabinet,  which  I used  for  a workstand. 
The  other  rooms  had  less  furniture,  but  all  that 
was  really  necessary. 

The  ceilings  of  our  house  were  composed  of 
the  stalks  of  kao-liang,  or  sorghum,  tied  to- 
gether, and  attached  to  the  rafters,  with  coarse 
paper  pasted  over  it,  and  that  carefully  white- 
washed. When  it  is  new  and  well  done,  this 
kind  of  ceiling  looks  nicely,  and  answers  its  pur- 
pose very  well  indeed.  My  kitchen  was  too 
small,  but  much  better  than  I had  ever  had  be- 
fore, being  furnished  with  a little  pantry,  and  a 
cooking-stove,  — two  luxuries  in  house-keeping. 

Mr.  Nevius  had  a room  fitted  up  close  to  the 
street,  which  he  used  as  a chapel,  and  reception- 
room  for  Chinese  visitors. 

The  side  building,  which  I have  spoken  of  as  a 
guest-room,  was  occupied  by  Mr.  Danforth,  who 
boarded  with  us  until  his  return  to  the  United 
States. 


INCURSION  OF  THE  REBELS. 


359 


Before  we  were  settled  in  the  temple,  and 
while  workmen  were  still  engaged  in  certain 
parts  of  the  house,  rumors  reached  us  of  an  in- 
vasion from  a band  of  rebels  called  tu-fe  or  nien- 
fe  (that  is,  thieves  or  banditti).  Coming  from 
the  East,  they  swarmed  over  our  section  of  the 
promontory,  visiting  not  only  the  cities,  or  such 
of  them  as  they  dared  attack,  but  also  small 
villages  in  the  country. 

A few  extracts  from  letters  written  to  my 
parents  about  this  date  will  give  a better  idea  of 
that  sad  month  of  October,  and  a few  days  pre- 
ceding it,  than  I could  give  from  memory  only,  — 

“ September  21st.  — Away  up  here,  hundreds 
of  miles  from  Nankin,  the  head-quarters  of  the 
Chang-mao  (long-haired  rebels),  we  are  now  in 
a ferment  of  excitement  on  account  of  a threat- 
ened attack  from  insurgents  of  some  sort,  proba- 
bly only  local  banditti.  It  is  said  they  are  now 
besieging  Hwang-hien,  a city  twenty  miles  dis- 
tant, which  Mr.  Nevius  and  Mr.  Gayley  visited 
a few  weeks  since. 

“ Several  of  the  Tung-chow  city  gates  are  kept 
closed  by  day,  and  all  are  shut  at  sunset,  — some 
hours  earlier  than  is  usual.  This  evening  as 
Mr.  Nevius  and  I were  going  out  for  a short  ride, 
we  were  told  at  the  gate,  that  we  must  be  back 


360 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


early,  or  we  would  not  be  able  to  enter  the  city. 
We  noticed  great  numbers  of  country  people 
hastening  to  gain  protection  within  the  walls,  — 
women,  some  of  them  carrying  one  or  two  chil- 
dren, riding  a donkey  or  mule,  and  a man  trudg- 
ing along  at  their  side.  One  old  woman,  astride 
a mule,  had  a large  load  of  grass  strapped  each 
side  of  her.  There  were  a good  many  soldiers 
on  the  walls  keeping  watch,  ready  to  ward  off 
intruders  should  they  make  their  appearance. 
A day  or  two  ago,  in  consequence  of  a very 
alarming  rumor,  the  city  banks  had  a great  run 
upon  them,  their  note  issues  being  presented  for 
specie  payment.  A proclamation  was  put  out  by 
the  authorities  stating  that  a bill  for  a thousand 
cash  would  only  be  allowed  six  hundred,  and  so 
on  in  that  proportion.  The  next  day  matters 
were  better,  though  still  somewhat  troublesome. 
One  thing  which  makes  it  probable  that  the  tu-fe 
will  not  molest  this  place,  is  that  Tung-chow  has 
the  reputation  of  being  a very  poor  city,  with 
hardly  enough  wealth  to  pay  the  robbers  for  cap- 
turing it.  It  is  quite  possible,  however,  that  we 
may  soon  be  in  a state  of  siege. 

“ September  23d.  — Last  evening,  about  nine 
o’clock,  Mr.  Nevius  had  a visit  from  one  of 
the  city  officials  with  whom  he  has  become  ac- 


INCURSION  OF  THE  REBELS. 


301 


quainted.  This  officer  has  gone  out  to-day  with 
a band  of  soldiers  in  the  direction  in  which  the 
rebels  are  said  to  be,  to  drive  them  away ; or  at 
least,  to  show  them  that  they  are  on  the  watch  ; 
and  more  particularly  to  give  confidence  to  the 
people,  who  are  fearfully  excited.  His  object  in 
calling  last  night  was  to  borrow  our  horses  for 
the  expedition.  It  seemed  a strange  idea  to  come 
to  borrow  foreigners’  horses  for  such  a purpose  ; 
but  Mr.  Nevius  and  Mr.  Gay  ley  promised  him 
theirs,  and  were  rather  glad  to  do  so,  because  he 
has  been  kind  and  obliging  to  us,  and  they  are 
pleased  to  have  an  opportunity  to  make  him  some 
slight  return.  We  hear  that  he  is  to  ride  to-day 
in  his  sedan  chair,  only  occasionally  mounting 

the  horses.  J suggests  that  he  will  be 

likely  to  make  use  of  the  latter,  in  case  he  gets 
too  near  the  rebels ; as  he  would  have  hard  work 
to  escape  in  his  heavy  chair,  with  four  bearers. 
How  ridiculous  to  think  of  going  to  fight  shut  up 
in  a closed  sedan  ! By  the  way,  this  man  is  the 
one  through  whom  we  secured  the  site  for  our 
cemetery.  It  happened  to  be  upon  public  lands 
which  could  not  be  sold ; and  the  missionaries 
felt  uncomfortably  about  taking  it  without  being 
able  to  secure  a title.  Our  assistant,  Tsao, 
called  upon  the  officer  and  explained  to  him  that 


362 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


the  foreigners  would  much  prefer  paying  for  the 
land.  The  officer  assured  him  that  no  difficulty 
would  ensue  in  consequence,  but  that  it  was  quite 
impossible  to  sell  that  ground,  as  it  belonged  to 
the  emperor.  “But,”  he  added,  “if  your  for- 
eign friends  feel  uncomfortably  about  it,  why, 
Mr.  Nevius  has  a very  fine  stereoscope,  and,  if  he 
pleases,  he  can  just  send  me  that!  (The  stereo- 
scope, which  it  seemed  he  so  much  admired  and 
coveted,  was  one  which  had  been  sent  me  by  a 
brother,  and  X prized  it  so  much  that  X did  not 
care  to  part  with  it.  But  X believe  another, 
equally  good,  was  ordered  from  Shanghai,  and 
presented  to  his  Excellency.)  Our  nights  at 
this  time  are  greatly  disturbed  by  a noisy  patrol 
in  the  streets.  Every  time  they  pass  our  win- 
dow they  give  a tremendous  twang  to  their 
gong,  enough,  certainly,  to  frighten  away  sleep 
from  the  citizens,  if  not  to  alarm  the  rebels. 

“ October  9th.  —-Since  Hast  wrote  you,  we  have 
passed  through  a.  very  trying  time.  During  the 
latter  part  of  last  week.,  rumors  from  the  rebels 
became  still  more  definite  and  alarming.  People 
from  the  country  came  flying  to  the  city.  The 
gates  were  all  shut  and  barricaded,  but  thousands 
were  drawn  up  over  the  walls  by  ropes.  Among 
this  number  was  Mr.  Gayley,  who,  having  re- 


INCURSION  OP  THE  REBELS. 


363 


turned  from  Yentai  (Che-foo),  had  no  other  way 
of  reaching  his  house.  Mr.  Nevius  and  a China- 
man pulled  him  up  with  a rope.  On  Saturday 
I was  ill  and  could  not  leave  the  house,  but  Sun- 
day I was  upon  the  wall  a short  time,  and  while 
there  saw  a whole  family  thus  drawn  up  ; among 
whom  were  several  women,  young  and  old,  and 
one  ten-days-old  baby.  I had  my  doubts  whether 
this  little  personage  would  reach  the  top  alive, 
as  it  was  bundled  up  so  tightly  that  I feared  it 
would  be  smothered ; and,  besides,  it  received  a 
good  many  hard  bumps  in  making  the  ascent. 
But  a loud,  healthy  cry,  and  a sight  of  its  little 
red  face,  reassured. me.  The  young  and  active 
women,  as  they  were  being  hauled  up,  braced 
themselves  out  at  a right  angle  from  the  wall, 
and  partly  walked  up  its  nearly  perpendicular 
face.  But  one  old  woman  just  gave  herself  up 
as  a dead  weight,  and  so  came  up  rubbing  and 
striking  against  the  stones. 

“A  strange  sight  met  our  eyes  as  we  looked 
over  the  wall,  at  the  bottom  of  which  there  were 
literally  thousands  of  ownerless  mules  and  don- 
keys, running  wildly  about,  apparently  much 
puzzled  and  annoyed  at  their  unwonted  freedom. 
Their  masters,  having  ridden  to  the  foot  of  the 
wall,  had  been  obliged  to  leave  their  animals 


864 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


there,  with  only  a faint  hope  of  ever  seeing 
them  again.  But  what  will  not  a man  sacrifice 
in  order  to  save  his  life  ! We  have  been  told 
that  many  women  flying  from  the  rebels,  in  their 
terror  and  desperation,  have  thrown  their  little 
children  into  rivers  and  ponds  at  the  road-side, 
in  order  to  prevent  their  falling  into  the  hands 
of  their  enemies.  Nearly  every  evening  we  see, 
in  the  red  glare  of  the  clouds,  the  reflected  light 
of  burning  villages ; and  in  the  daytime  heavy 
smoke  rising  here  and  there,  in  places  more  or 
less  remote,  tells  the  same  sad  story. 

“There  is  a report  that  the  rebels  are  encamped 
in  immense  numbers  in  the  Hwang-hien  valley, 
twenty  miles  distant,  and  that  they  are  now  en- 
gaged in  undermining  the  walls  of  that  city, 
and  that,  after  capturing  Hwang-hien,  they  will 
at  once  advance  upon  Tung-chow. 

“ Yesterday  the  gate  nearest  us  was  opened  for 
a short  time,  and  Mr.  Nevius  and  Mr.  Danforth 
embraced  the  opportunity  to  ride  out  on  horse- 
back. They  went  a long  way,  and  did  not  get 
back  until  evening.  I was  terribly  anxious 
about  them.  It  seemed  to  me  very  imprudent 
to  venture  out  at  such  a time ; for,  though  the 
main  army  may  now  be  miles  distant,  we  know 
that  bands  of  rebels  have  been  very  near  us. 


INCURSION  OF  THE  REBELS. 


S65 


They  witnessed  most  fearful  sights.  Not  quite  a 
mile  from  the  city,  noticing  an  unusual  appear- 
ance in  a certain  spot,  they  rode  to  it,  and  there 
lay  six  or  eight  well-dressed  and  very  respectable 
women,  dead  by  the  roadside.  Each  had  a rope 
round  her  neck,  which  was  worn  and  red,  and 
the  lacerated  back  of  one  of  them  showed  very 
plainly  that  their  heartless  captors  had  been 
dragging  them  over  the  ground.  Nestling  close 
at  the  side  of  the  women,  who  were  doubtless 
their  mothers,  were  several  little  children,  also 
dead.  There  were  no  marks  of  violence  upon 
them,  and  probably  the  little  ones  had  died  of 
starvation.  Only  the  day  before,  as  we  were 
upon  the  city  wall,  we  had  noticed  some  objects 
moving  at  or  near  this  spot,  and  had  we  been 
able  to  go  thither  sooner,  we  might  have  saved 
these  poor  children  from  their  sad  fate.  The 
gentlemen  visited  a village  some  miles  from 
Tung-chow,  the  inhabitants  of  which  had  with 
great  bravery  endeavored  to  protect  themselves 
from  the  rebels ; but  overpowered  by  superior 
numbers,  they  had  been  conquered  and  cut 
down,  and  there  they  were  lying  in  various 
places  and  attitudes,  just  as  the  rebels  had  left 
them.  One  poor  creature  was  tied  to  a tree,  his 
blackened  body  showing  plainly  that  he  had  been 


366 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


tortured  by  fire,  and  another,  also  tied  to  a tree, 
had  been  literally  hacked  to  pieces. 

“Their  village  Avas  in  a lovely,  retired  spot  in 
a gorge  of  the  mountains.  No  doubt  they  loved 
it  well,  to  be  thus  willing  to  sell  their  lives  in 
its  defence. 

“ The  gentlemen  found  an  old  man  by  the  road- 
side, about  five  miles  from  Tung-chow,  almost 
dead  apparently  from  fatigue  and  starvation. 
After  restoring  him  to  partial  consciousness,  by 
food  and  Avine  obtained  in  a neighboring  village, 
they  constructed  a rude  litter  and  employed 
some  men  to  carry  him  to  Tung-chow,  hoping  to 
save  his  life.  It  was,  however,  too  late.  He  died 
just  before  reaching  the  city. 

“Many  of  the  villages  through  which  they 
passed  were  still  almost  deserted,  their  inhabit- 
ants having  fled,  either  to  Tung-choAV,  or  to 
places  of  concealment  in  the  mountains.  In  one 
or  two  cases,  they  had  well-nigh  suffered  injury ; 
the  enraged  villagers,  seeing  tAvo  strange-looking 
men  approaching,  took  them  for  rebels,  and  were 
on  the  point  of  attacking  them.  But  a few  kind 
Avords  of  sympathy  and  encouragement  were 
enough  to  turn  the  tide  of  feeling  to  gratitude 
and  affection,  and  they  soon  came  crowding 
around  them  Avith  their  sad  tales  of  distiess. 


INCURSION  OF  THE  REBELS. 


867 


“ We  have  now  staying  with  us,  a family  whom 
Mr.  Nevius  found  a few  nights  since  in  the 
streets.  The  man,  whose  name  is  Fan-yin-tai, 
is  badly  wounded,  and  we  have  many  fears  for 
his  recovery.  A band  of  rebels  attacked  his 
village,  and  the  villagers  fought  and  drove  them 
off.  A few  days  later  they  came  in  greater  num- 
bers. Hearing  of  their  approach,  Fan-yin-tai 
took  his  family  and  concealed  them  on  the  top 
of  a high  hill.  He  then  went  back  to  his  house 
to  procure  food  and  other  necessaries.  These  he 
had  placed  upon  a donkey,  and  was  already  half 
a mile  from  his  house,  on  his  return  to  his 
family,  when  the  rebels  overtook  him,  and  at 
once  attacked  him.  As  they  struck  his  head,  he 
naturally  threw  up  his  hands  to  protect  it,  and 
thus  both  his  hands  and  head  have  received 
frightful  wounds,  nearly  twenty  in  all.  We  may 
be  able  to  save  his  life,  but  he  cannot  possibly 
recover  the  perfect  use  of  his  hands.  His  family 
consists  of  his  wife  and  child  and  an  aged  grand- 
mother. It  goes  to  my  heart  to  witness  their 
distress ; hut  they  bear  it  bravely.  I ought  to 
have  mentioned  that  this  poor,  wounded  man 
actually  carried  his  mother  upon  his  back  a great 
part  of  the  distance  between  his  home  and  Tung- 
chow : she  having  become  unable  to  walk. 


368 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


“ October  11th.  — We  are  expecting  to  send  off 
our  man  Chong-shu  to  Yentai  to-night.  He  will 
travel  after  dark,  in  order  to  avoid  observation 
should  he  pass  through  the  vicinity  of  the 
rebels. 

“We  are  more  quiet  to-day,  and  hope  our  diffi- 
culties may  be  nearly  over.  One  cause  of 
anxiety  at  present  is  the  non-arrival  of  the  Cul- 
bertsons, whom  we  have  been  expecting  for 
weeks,  from  Shanghai.  A steamer  from  the 
South  reports  having  seen  a Siamese  vessel  (prob- 
ably the  one  in  which  the  Culbertsons  sailed) 
dismasted,  and  evidently  attempting  to  get  in  to 
shore  ; so  where  our  friends  are  now  is  altogether 
uncertain.  They  may  have  been  driven  by  stress 
of  weather  farther  down  the  coast,  or  they  may 
have,  been  lost  at  sea.  But  we  will  hope  for  the 
best.  [The  Culbertsons  were  driven  down  the 
coast  in  a typhoon,  as  far  as  Amoy,  which  place 
they  reached  in  safety.] 

“October  12th. — The  man  did  not  go  last 
evening,  as  was  expected,  it  being  thought  best 
to  detain  him  a day  or  two.  There  is  a report 
that  Yentai  has  been  captured  by  the  rebels; 
another  report  says  that  there  was  an  engage- 
ment between  them  and  the  foreigners,  in  which 
the  latter  were  worsted,  and  obliged  to  send  off 


INCURSION  OF  THE  REBELS. 


369 


for  reinforcements.  Just  at  dusk  this  evening, 

J and  Mr.  Danforth  were  on  the  wall  at  the 

east  gate,  and  some  one  came  to  them  saying  that 
there  was  a foreigner  desiring  to  gain  admission 
to  the  city.  Looking  through  the  embrasures, 
they  saw  Mr.  Andrew  Holmes,  a brother  of  Rev. 
J.  L.  Holmes,  of  Yentai.  After  some  difficulty, 
they  succeeded  in  getting  the  gate  opened.  Mr. 
Holmes  was  just  returning  from  Tien-tsin  (near 
Pekin),  having  made  the  long  journey  alone,  on 
horseback.  He  speaks  of  the  country  through 
which  he  has  passed,  as  one  scene  of  desolation ; 
the  rebels  having  passed  over  his  route  before 
him,  burning  villages,  capturing  or  killing  the 
inhabitants,  and  not  only  so,  but  putting  to  death 
every  living  creature.  He  says  in  some  places 
the  streets  were  so  crowded  with  dead  bodies  of 
donkeys,  cattle,  dogs,  and  fowls,  besides  many, 
many  human  corpses,  that  he  was  scarcely  able 
to  pass. 

“ A terrible  rumor  has  reached  us  this  evening 
from  Yentai ; whether  it  is  true  or  not  we  have 
no  means  of  ascertaining,  but  we  have  many 
fears.  It  is  said  that  when  the  tu-fe  approached 
Yentai,  Rev.  Mr.  Holmes  and  either  Mr.  Dudley 
Smith  or  Mr.  Parker,  of  the  American  Episcopal 
Mission,  went  out  to  meet  them,  and  have  not 
24 


370 


OUE  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


returned  ! We  were  at  tea  at  Mr.  Hartwell’s, 
with  Mr.  A.  Holmes,  when  this  story  was  brought 
there  by  the  Chinese.  Mr.  Holmes  had  run 
great  risks  in  his  journey  from  Pekin,  every 
mile  having  been  beset  with  danger  ; and  he  felt 
safe  and  happy  to  be  at  Tung-chow,  so  near  his 
home.  It  seemed  too  sad  that  he  should  hear 
such  news.  I think  he  felt  at  once  that  the 
probabilities  were  that  it  was  true.  He  will,  I 
suppose,  leave  in  the  morning  for  Yentai,  though 
the  route  is  not  considered  safe.  His  anxiety  is 
so  intense  that  he  prefers  to  run  some  risk  rather 
than  wait  longer.  We  will  send  our  letters  by 
him.  It  may  be  a long  while  before  you  hear 
from  us  again,  as  communication  is  difficult.  It 
is  possible  that  we  may  be  obliged  to  leave  Tung- 
chow  for  a time  ; that  is,  if  we  can  by  any  possi- 
bility get  away.  If  the  rebels  retux-n,  as  they 
threaten  to  do,  the  place  would  no  doubt  be  sur- 
rounded, so  that  we  might  find  it  impossible  to 
escape  either  by  sea  or  by  land.  It  is  a comfort 
to  see  the  entire  confidence  with  which  we  ai-e 
regarded  by  the  natives.  They  evidently  know 
that  we  are  their  friends. 

“ Within  the  last  few  days,  several  individuals 
have  been  captui’ed  within  the  walls,  supposed  to 
be  spies.  They  were  executed  at  once. 


INCURSION  OP  THE  REBELS. 


371 


u Much  fear  has  been  felt  that  the  rebels  would 
attempt  to  set  fire  to  the  city,  and,  during  the 
excitement,  gain  admission  and  easily  capture  it. 

r-  Thursday,  October  18th.  — It  is  nearly  two 
weeks  since  our  friends  Mr.  Parker  and  Mr. 
Holmes  met  their  sad  fate  at  the  hands  of  the 
rebels.  The  rumor  which  reached  us  the  night 
when  Mr.  Andrew  Holmes  arrived  from  Tien- 
tsin, proved  to  be  true.  There  was  an  impres- 
sion among  foreigners  at  Yentai,  that  these 
banditti  had  some  connection  with  those  at  Nan- 
kin, who  had  thus  far  shown  some  deference  to 
foreigners  ; and  it  was  supposed  that  there  would 
be  little  or  no  danger  from  seeking  an  interview 
with  them,  while  much  good  might  be  done  in 
inducing  them  to  assume  a different  policy,  per- 
haps ensuring  the  safety  of  the  town  of  Yentai, 
and  other  villages  in  that  vicinity.  With  some 
such  hopes  as  these,  the  two  gentlemen  left  their 
homes  ; while  neither  they  nor  their  friends  were 
at  all  disturbed  by  anticipations  of  danger. 
They  could  not,  I think,  have  known  as  much  as 
we  at  Tung-chow,  of  the  true  character  of  the 
tu-fe.  On  the  morning  after  leaving  home  they 
found  themselves  near  a large  body  of  the  rebels, 
and  still  not  suspecting  danger,  they  went  for- 
ward right  into  the  face  of  death.  Of  the 


372 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


minute  and  distressing  particulars  of  this  sad 
event,  I must  not  speak  further  here.  Nor  of 
those  two  sad  watchers  at  Yentai.  As  day  after 
day  passed,  and  a torturing  possibility  grew  into 
certainty,  their  grief  was  such  as  a stranger 
ought  neither  to  ‘ intermeddle  with,’  nor  attempt 
to  describe. 

‘ ‘ Messrs.  Parker  and  Smith  lived,  as  I have 
said,  at  Chukee,  about  three  miles  hack  from 
Yentai ; Mrs.  Holmes  had  gone  to  pass  the  time 
of  her  husband’s  absence  with  them.  They  did 
not  quit  their  house  until  one  midnight  a mes- 
senger came  with  horses  and  a letter  from  the 
kind  and  considerate  English  Consul  at  Che-foo, 
begging  them  to  leave  at  once  as  the  rebels  were 
close  at  hand.  They  did  so,  but  were  scarcely 
out  of  the  village,  wThen  it  was  entered  by  the 
advance  of  the  rebel  army.  Their  house  was 
plundered,  many  articles  of  value  were  carried 
off,  and  much  was  wantonly  destroyed. 

“ October  23d.  — Mr.  Nevius  had  a call  to-day 
from  a man  who  was  carried  off  by  the  rebels 
about  a month  ago,  and  only  a few  days  since 
made  his  escape  from  them.  He  represents 
their  numbers  as  almost  beyond  computation. 
He  says  there  are  three  different  bands,  distin- 
guished by,  and  usually  called  the  white,  red,  and 


INCURSION  OF  THE  REBELS. 


373 


black  flags ; the  latter  is  said  to  be  the  most 
cruel  and  blood-thirsty.  He  says  the  section  he 
was  with  did  not  often  take  life,  unless  resistance 
was  offered,  and  then  they  never  hesitated  to  do 
so.  He  represents  them  as  less  courageous  than 
I had  supposed ; and  says  they  are  exceedingly 
afraid  of  firearms,  of  which  they  have  few  or 
none.  To  prevent  their  captives  from  escaping, 
they  dress  them  in  their  own  clothes,  so  that 
they  must  inevitably  be  taken  for  rebels,  and 
when  making  an  attack,  place  them  in  the  thick- 
est of  the  fight,  taking  care  that  enough  of  their 
own  men  are  near  them  to  prevent  their  making 
their  escape.  They  are  particularly  fond  of  cap- 
turing little  boys,  whom  they  dress  in  fine  clothes 
and  allow  to  ride  the  horses.  The  company 
which  has  been  in  this  vicinity  had  the  black 
flag.  They  captured  a great  many  women  and 
young  girls.  This  poor  man  says  that  when  his 
family  found  that  he  had  been  carried  off,  all  of 
them  drowned  themselves,  with  the  exception  of 
two  or  three  little  children,  who  are  all  that  are 
left  of  a once  large  household.  Probably  they 
feared  being  taken  also,  or  possibly  they  were 
beside  themselves  with  terror.  I do  not  wonder 
at  their  fright,  poor  things  ! 

“ Aside  from  our  own  danger,  we  have  suffered 


374 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


more  than  I can  express,  in  witnessing  the  mis- 
eries of  the  poor  natives.  In  passing  through 
the  streets,  we  often  see  persons  with  their  heads 
apparently  half  severed  from  their  bodies  ; while 
wounds  and  bruises  of  various  descriptions  meet 
our  eyes  on  every  side.  Mr.  Gayley’s  and  Mr. 
Hartwell’s  houses  have  been  turned  into  tempo- 
rary hospitals  ; and  these  gentlemen  are  most 
kindly  devoting  themselves  to  dressing  wounds, 
and  providing  simple  remedies  such  as  are  within 
their  reach.  Fewer  wounded  persons  have  come 
to  us  on  account  of  our  place  being  in  a less 
crowded  thoroughfare ; still  we  have  had  many 
demands  upon  our  time  and  sympathies.  How 
often  I wish  that  I had  some  medical  skill,  it 
would  be  so  useful  here  ! I hope  never  again  to 
feel  such  need  of  a knowledge  of  surgery ; but 
that  also  would  often  he  invaluable  to  a lady  as 
well  as  a gentleman.  Why  would  it  not  he  well 
for  ladies  contemplating  missionary  life  to  devote 
some  time  to  medical  studies,  or  at  least  to  gain 
some  practical  insight  into  the  mysteries  of  nurs- 
ing, and  the  elements  of  medical  science  ? Our 
Romanist  sisters  have  made  much  use  of  this  means 
of  gaining  an  influence.  With  a spirit  of  devo- 
tion and  self-sacrifice  well  worthy  of  imitation, 
they  go  among  the  poor  natives,  dressing  wounds 


INCURSION  OF  THE  REBELS. 


375 


and  sores,  and  seeking  to  relieve  not  only  tlieir 
spiritual,  but  their  temporal  wants.  Protestant 
medical  missionaries  have  also  performed  a good 
and  noble  work  of  the  same  kind ; but  I see  no 
good  reason  why  it  must  be  confined  to  men 
only. 

“ October  26th.  — We  are  all  quiet  at  present, 
and  have  no  more  fear  of  the  rebels  returning 
before  next  spring.  They  have  gone,  it  is  said, 
to  their  haunts  in  the  south-western  corner  of  this 
province.  What  a comfort  it  is  to  feel  safe  and 
easy  again  ! How  thankful  we  are  that  in  this 
time  of  danger  we  have  been  kept  in  safety ! It 
has  been  good  for  us  to  be  thus  cut  off  from  all 
human  aid,  and  made  to  realize  our  dependence 
upon  God  alone.  We  have  found  him  an  all- 
sufficient  help  in  this  vour  time  of  danger,  and  I 
hope  we  shall  trust  him  more  implicitly  in  the 
future.  Our  friends  in  Yentai  were  much  sur- 
prised at  our  remaining  in  Tung-chow,  away  from 
foreign  protection,  but  we  are  glad  that  we  were 
able  to  do  so.  The  people  seem  to  feel  more  con- 
fidence in  us  than  before.  This  communion  in 
suffering  has  created  a bond  of  sympathy  between 
us. 

<£  We  have  a comfortable  and  pleasant  home. 
The  old  temple  with  its  foreign  adornings,  glass 


876 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


windows,  board  floors,  etc.,  scarcely  knows  itself, 
so  changed  is  it  from  the  gloomy  old  Kwan-yin 
tang.” 

The  weather,  all  through  this  autumn  of  1861, 
was  charming  ; and  the  atmosphere  so  pure  and 
health-giving  that,  in  spite  of  all  anxieties  and 
inconveniences,  I,  as  well  as  the  other  invalids, 
grew  much  stronger;  and,  to  my  joy,  I was  soon 
able  to  commence  more  systematic  study  of  the 
language, — not  only  the  vernacular,  but  also  the 
written  character. 

Mr.  Nevius  spent  much  time  in  his  study,  hard 
at  work  upon  his  book-making,  not,  however,  to 
the  exclusion  of  chapel-preaching,  and  occasional 
itinerating.  In  company  with  the  other  mission- 
aries, he  visited  the  neighboring  cities  and  vil- 
lages, preaching  and  distributing  books.  I re- 
member that  on  one  of  these  days,  coming  back 
from  Hwang-kien,  he  was  obliged  to  walk  fifteen 
miles.  He  had  gone  with  my  pony,  which,  not 
being  strong,  gave  out,  so  that  he  was  afraid  to 
ride  him.  Another  day  he  had  an  equally  hard 
tramp  over  the  hills  in  another  direction.  He 
went  to  visit  the  wounded  man  Fan  yin-tai.  Not 
familiar  with  the  road,  he  had  much  difficulty  in 
finding  the  right  village,  so  that  the  day  was 
well  spent  before  he  could  start  homewards. 


INCURSION  OP  THE  REBELS. 


377 


The  weather  proved  inclement,  and  the  road  over 
the  mountains  was  so  stony  and  bad  that  he  was 
obliged  to  walk  for  ten  miles,  leading  his  horse. 
I was  thankful  to  see  him  home  safely,  especially 
as  the  country  was  then  still  infested  by  small 
bands  of  robbers. 


378 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

VARIOUS  INCIDENTS  AT  TUNG-CHOW. — CHOLERA. 

Our  first  winter  in  Tung-chow  was  a pleasant 
one.  We  had  never  been  more  isolated ; even 
Shanghai  and  Ningpo  seemed  very  far  away.  I 
think  we  were  two  full  months  without  receiving 
a mail ; and  that  too,  at  a time  when  matters  in 
America  were  in  a state  to  occasion  us  the  great- 
est anxiety.  As  I have  no  “journal”  of  that 
period,  I shall  make  occasional  extracts  from 
letters  to  my  parents,  or  other  home  friends. 

Reading  over  these  old  letters  has  brought  to 
mind  very  vividly  some  of  the  events  of  that 
quiet  winter.  On  the  7th  of  December  I wrote  : 
“ Mr.  Nevius  has  gone  out  to  our  new  chapel  to 
commence  an  evening  service.  He  expects  here- 
after to  be  there  about  every  third  night.  It  is 
rather  lonely  forme  to  have  him  so  much  away; 
but  I would  not  detain  him  from  these  services, 
if  I could.  Our  long  winter  evenings  are  about 
the  pleasantest  time  we  have,  when  I am  reading, 


VARIOUS  INCIDENTS  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  379 


writing,  or  sewing,  and  Mr.  Nevius  sits  near  me 
studying.  I am  sometimes  sorry  he  does  not 
take  his  evenings  for  recreation,  and  general 
reading ; but  he  thinks  it  necessary,  in  order  to 
accomplish  all  he  wishes,  to  keep  plodding  on 
in  the  way  he  does.  He  has  scarcely  read  an 
English  work  since  he  has  been  in  China.  He 
has  now  in  the  press  at  Shanghai,  or  already 
printed,  a book  called  ‘ Guide  to  Heaven,’  — a 
tract  on  Ancestral  Worship;  ‘ Mark,  with  Notes,’ 
and  one  volume  of  Theology ; and  he  has  about 
ready  to  be  printed  a second  volume ; also  ‘ The 
Assistant’s  Manual,’  and  a tract  called  ‘ The  Two 
Lights  ’ (that  is,  those  of  Nature  and  Revela- 
tion). He  is  at  present  preparing  the  third 
volume  of  Theology,  which,  when  finished,  will 
make  about  half  of  the  contemplated  ‘ Compen- 
dium.’ 

“ You  will  be  glad  to  know  that  my  health  is 
much  better  than  it  has  been  for  a long  while. 
I am  busy  all  day,  and  some  days  am  not  obliged 
to  lie  down  to  rest  at  all.  I get  tired  enough  by 
night,  but  am  not  made  ill  by  fatigue,  as  I here- 
tofore have  so  often  been. 

“December  17th.  — Evening.  Mr.  Nevius 
is  away  again  at  chapel.  He  has  invariably  had 
good  audiences,  who  listen  with  attention  and  in- 


380 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


terest.  It  certainly  seems  as  if  the  Tung-chow 
people  are  more  easily  influenced  than  the 
Chinese  generally  are. 

“ I have  just  engaged  a female  servant.  I have 
had  none  since  coming  here,  and  should  not 
care  for  one  now,  except  on  account  of  learning 
the  language.  Although  Mandarin  is  spoken  all 
over  the  north  of  China,  local  peculiarities  are 
very  marked.  Tung-chow  is  full  of  provincial- 
isms. Moreover,  “women’s  talk”  is  very  dif- 
ferent from  men’s,  and  it  is  much  harder  for  us 
to  understand  them,  or  they  us.  I can  speak 
Mandarin  pretty  well,  but  make  wretched  work 
with  these  Tung-chow  women.  Most  unfortu- 
nately, the  woman  who  has  come  to  me  as  a 
servant,  I find,  is  not  a native  of  this  place,  and 
her  dialect  is  very  different  from  this.  I scarcely 
know  what  to  do  ; for  I am  sure  she  will  not  wish 
to  leave  me,  and  yet  she  will  be  but  little  help 
in  learning  this  language. 

o o o 

“ I had  a visit  to-day  from  two  ladies,  the  wife 
and  sister  of  Suen  sin-sang,  Mr.  Nevius’  teacher. 
The  former  I liked  very  much,  she  is  so  sweet  and 
lady-like.  They  had  been  out  to  dine,  and  were 
in  full  dress.  My  dress  is  very  common  com- 
pared with  that  of  a well-dressed  Chinese  woman. 
I never  mean  to  be  shabby ; but  the  absence  of 


VARIOUS  INCIDENTS  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  381 


satin,  embroidery,  and  flowers,  must  make  us 
seem  plain  to  them  even  in  our  best  c gear.’ 

“I  am  very  much  occupied  just  now  out  of 
study  hours,  in  getting  ready  for  Christmas.  I 
can  make  but  few  presents  this  year.  Tung- 
chow  has  the  poorest  shops  of  any  place  I ever 
lived  in.  We  can  buy  scarcely  anything  either 
for  use  or  ornament.  Mr.  Nevius  is  sadly  in 
need  of  a pair  of  warm  winter  gloves.  I must 
try  to  make  him  some ; I think  I can  cut  them 
out  of  cloth  and  maybe  cover  the  backs  with 
fur. 

“ December  28th.  — I had  a little  company 
on  Christmas,  but  the  kitchen  was  so  cold  that  I 
could  not  remain  in  it  long  enough  to  make  very 
elaborate  preparations.  After  all,  we  contrived 

a little  interchange  of  presents.  J gave  me 

two  pretty  fur  rugs.  I gave  him  a watch-case  : 
— the  gloves,  I am  sorry  to  say,  were  not  a 
1 success.’  I debated  long  whether  to  present 
Mrs.  G.  a pair  of  button-hole  scissors,  or  a copper 
tea-lcettle  (which  I brought  from  Japan),  but 
decided  upon  the  former.  Mrs.  H.  received  a 
pin-cushion,  which  I have  enjoyed  making  for 
her.  Mrs.  Gay  ley  gave  me  a lamp-mat,  and  a 
pair  of  mittens ; Mrs.  H.,  a beautiful  muslin 
‘ set,’  collar  and  cuffs  (which  she  had  ordered 


382 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CniNA. 


from  Shanghai),  and  a goose!  So  you  may 
feel  sure  that  for  one  good  dinner  at  least  we 
are  provided.  A few  other  little  gifts  were  also 
made  and  received. 

“ Ningpo,  we  hear,  is  in  the  hands  of  the  rebels, 
but  we  have  had  no  letters  from  there,  nor  indeed 
from  anywhere,  for  about  six  weeks.  We  feel 
very  much  out  of  the  world,  especially  since 
winter  set  in,  and  our  mails  have  been  so  irregu- 
lar. The  last,  we  hear,  was  by  some  mistake 
carried  up  to  Tien-tsin,  and  there  the  mail 
steamer  got  frozen  in ; so  that  we  will  have  to 
wait  until  it  can  be  brought  back  overland. 

“ I find  the  acquisition  of  1 the  character  ’ 
very  fascinating,  and  to  my  surprise  I acquire  it 
readily.  Still  it  is  an  almost  endless  work.  I 

wonder  how  J , with  his  other  duties,  has 

been  able  to  gain  so  good  a knowledge  of  it.  If 
I am  well,  and  able  to  study,  in  the  course  of  a 
few  months  I can  read  very  simple  books ; but  it 
will  be  long  before  I can  use  it  in  composition. 
It  is  more  than  a month  since  I commenced,  and 
I know  only  three  or  four  hundred  characters. 
If  you  would  like  to  see  some  specimens  just 
examine  any  China  tea-chest,  and  I think  you  will 
be  sure  to  find  some  there. 

“March  3d. — Yesterday  was  an  important 


VARIOUS  INCIDENTS  AT  TTTNG-CHOW.  383 


and  interesting  time  to  us.  Three  persons  were 
admitted  to  the  church.  Of  these,  one  is  our 
servant  Alipao  ; who  came  with  the  Danforths 
from  Ningpo.  I think  he  has  been  seriously 
inclined  ever  since  the  death  of  Mrs.  Danforth. 
Another  is  Lin  sin-sang,  Mr.  Gayley’s  teacher. 
He  is  a scholar  with  a degree.  I suppose  he  is 
a very  intellectual  man,  and  a good  writer;  but 
he  has  always  been  particularly  disagreeable  to 
me.  He  has  some  odd  ways,  which  are  amusing, 
though  at  times  rather  annoying.  lie  usually 
carries  about  a dog-shin  to  sit  upon ; and  last 
summer,  when  he  was  employed  as  Mr.  Nevius’ 
teacher,  he  used  always  to  bring  it  with  him,  and 
carefully  spread  it  upon  our  chairs,  before  seat- 
ing himself.  He  is  also  very  dainty,  and  ap- 
parently affected  in  other  respects.  But  still, 
the  gentlemen  think  well  of  him,  and  I trust  he 
may  prove  a good  and  useful  man. 

‘ ‘ The  other  person  who  was  yesterday  received 
into  the  church  is  Mr.  Chang,  who  is  acting  as  a 
scribe  for  Mr.  Nevius ; and  also  as  any  teacher. 
He  does  not  seem  naturally  a strong  character, 
yet  he  has  shown  a great  deal  of  firmness  in  his 
determination  to  become  a Christian  ; his  family 
being  much  opposed  to  it.  One  evening  not 
long  since,  as  he  was  coming  here  to  attend 


384 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Bible  class,  his  older  brother  met  him  and  began 
to  abuse  him  for  having  disgraced  himself  and 
his  family  by  adhering  to  the  foreigners’  relig- 
ion. Finding  that  words  had  little  effect,  he 
tried  blows,  and  had  nearly  torn  poor  Chang’s 
clothes  off  him.  Finally  Mr.  Chang  said, 
‘ Now,  elder  brother,  if  you  kill  me  you  cannot 
shake  my  purpose  ; for  I will  be  a Christian.’ 
Hearing  which,  his  brother  left  him,  saying, 
‘Very  well  then,  from  this  hour  you  cease  to 
be  my  brother  ! ’ 

“ Some  time  since  we  felt  greatly  encouraged 
about  Suen  sin-sang.  He  is  a fine-looking,  gen- 
tlemanly man,  of  very  good  family.  He  is  now 
poor,  and  an  opium-smoker.  He  did  not  at  first 
seem  favorably  impressed  by  Christianity ; but 
his  interest  increased,  and  it  was  evident  that  he 
had  become  intellectually  convinced  of  its  truth 
long  before  he  felt  willing  to  yield  obedience  to 
its  commands.  Mr.  Nevius  labored  most  faith- 
fully with  him,  and  they  had  daily  long  and 
earnest  conversations.  At  length  we  hoped  that 
the  matter  was  decided,  and  that  Suen  was  will- 
ing to  confess  the  Saviour,  no  matter  what  ob- 
stacles might  oppose.  But  in  this  we  were 
mistaken  ; and  I cannot  express  the  trial  it  ha3 
been  to  us.  He  meets  with  violent  opposition  in 


VARIOUS  INCIDENTS  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  385 


his  family  ; and,  instead  of  standing  firm,  he  is 
evidently  inclined  to  yield.  His  wife,  whom  I 
thought  so  gentle  and  interesting,  it  seems  is 
often  quite  the  contrary.  She  is  unusually 
bright  and  intelligent,  and  must  also  be  possessed 
of  a wonderful  amount  of  determination  and 
courage,  which  qualities  she  exhibited  lately  in 
a singular  way.  She  was  trying  to  dissuade 
Suen  from  joining  the  church,  and,  finding  him 
rather  obstinate,  she  vowed  that  if  he  did  so  she 
would  commit  suicide ; and,  in  attestation  of  the 
sincerity  of  her  purpose,  seized  a large  knife  and 
cut  her  finger  quite  to  the  bone. 

“But  what  seems  to  have  most  influence  upon 
Suen  is  the  fact  that  his  mother,  to  whom  he 
has  always  been  accustomed  to  yield  implicit 
obedience,  positively  forbids  his  being  a Chris- 
tian. The  family  try  all  sorts  of  ways  to  keep 
him  from  coming  to  church  on  the  Sabbath. 
Once  they  hid  his  clothes,  so  that  he  could  not 
dress  until  late  in  the  day  ; and  again  they  locked 
him  in  a room,  and  kept  him  there  until  after 
the  hour  for  service.  Fancy  a foreign  gentleman 
being  deprived  of  his  liberty  in  any  such  way  ! 
I am  quite  out  of  patience  with  Suen  ; but  Mr. 
Nevius  has  still  much  sympathy  for  him. 

“ Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gay  ley  are  at  Yentai ; they 
25 


886 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


were  obliged  to  go  there  to  have  a tooth  of  Mra. 
Gayley’s  extracted.  She  had  been  suffering  in- 
tensely for  days,  but  none  of  the  gentlemen  felt 
able  to  undertake  the  rather  difficult  dental  opera- 
tion.” 

Suen  sin-sang  proved  to  be  a real  “missionary 
trial.”  From  the  time  in  which  he  began  to 
show  signs  of  vacillation  in  yielding  to  his  wife’s 
and  mother’s  opposition  to  Christianity,  his 
course  was  steadily  downwards.  He  soon  gave 
up  all  profession  of  interest  in  religion,  and,  not 
only  so,  he  became  an  opposer  ; and  we  heard, 
after  he  had  left  Mr.  Nevius’  employ,  that  he 
took  particular  pleasure  in  spreading  injurious 
reports  respecting  us.  He  also  returned  to  his 
practice  of  o]3ium-smoking,  of  which  he  had 
apparently  been  entirely  cured. 

Mrs.  Suen  had  been  in  the  habit  of  visiting 
me ; but  her  visits  were  discontinued,  and  before 
long  we  lost  all  trace  of  the  family. 

In  the  month  of  April,  Mr.  Danforth  was 
taken  very  ill,  and  it  became  necessary  that  he 
should  go  to  Che-foo  in  order  to  consult  a phy- 
sician. Mr.  Nevius  and  I accompanied  him.  He 
was  kindly  received  by  one  of  the  missionary 
families,  and  after  a few  days  was  so  much  im- 
proved that  Mr.  Nevius  ventured  to  leave  him, 


VARIOUS  INCIDENTS  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  387 


and  go,  in  company  with  Mr.  Smith,  of  the 
American  Episcopal  Mission,  on  an  itinerating 
tour  round  the  promontory.  On  this  tour  they 
met  with  much  encouragement.  People  every- 
where listened  well  to  preaching,  and  eagerly 
received  Christian  hooks. 

During  the  two  weeks  of  their  absence  I re- 
mained with  our  friends  at  Che-foo,  assisting 
when  needed  in  nursing  Mr.  Danforth.  When 
my  husband  returned,  Mr.  Danforth,  though  ap- 
parently convalescing,  was  not  able  to  undertake 
the  journey  home;  so  we  returned  without  him. 
Soon  after  this,  Mr.  Nevius  and  Mr.  Gayley 
started  upon  another  long  contemplated  itinera- 
tion to  Lai-chow  and  vicinity. 

One  evening  during  their  absence  we  received 
a message  from  a friend  at  Yentai,  saying,  “If 
you  would  see  Mr.  Danforth  alive,  come  at 
once ; for  he  is  very  ill,  just  at  the  point  of 
death.”  It  happened  that  the  Halls  of  Yentai 
were  then  at  Tung-chow,  and  that  same  evening 
Mr.  Hall,  Mrs.  Gayley,  and  I started  for  Che- 
foo.  It  was  a hard  journey.  We  stopped  at  a 
miserable  inn  late  at  night,  and  early  the  next 
morning  were  again  on  the  road.  We  found 
Mr.  Danforth  very  ill ; but  in  a day  or  two  he 
rallied  somewhat,  and  Mrs.  Gayley,  who  could 


388 


OUR  LIRE  IN  CHINA. 


not  well  remain  long  away  from  her  family, 
went  back  to  Tung-chow,  making  the  long  jour- 
ney in  one  day.  She  was  quite  alone,  but  met 
with  no  difficulty  whatever. 

When  Mr.  Kevins  returned  from  Lai-chow, 
he  was  startled  to  find  our  house  closed,  and 
evidently  unoccupied.  Not  a person  was  to  be 
seen.  Soon,  however,  a servant  appeared,  ex- 
plaining the  mystery,  and  giving  him  a letter, 
which  I had  left  for  him.  He  was  nearly  worn 
out  by  his  hard  missionary  tour,  and  for  days 
had  not  been  at  all  well ; but,  without  a night’s 
rest,  he  started  again,  and  the  next  morning 
was  at  Che-foo. 

« 

Mr.  Danforth’s  illness  continued,  and  assumed 
such  a character  as  to  require  either  Mr.  Nevius’ 
or  my  constant  attention,  besides  much  assist- 
ance given  us  by  other  friends.  After  a time 
he  accompanied  us  back  to  Tung-chow;  but  his 
health  was  never  perfectly  restored,  and  in  a 
few  months  he  was  obliged  to  return  to  the 
United  States. 

He  was  a great  loss  to  us  and  to  our  work, 
for  which  he  was  so  well  fitted. 

The  twentieth  of  June  we  had  a remarkable 
hail-storm.  There  was  first  a thunder-shower,  then 
a calm,  then  a long-continued  murmuring  sound, 


CHOLERA. 


S89 


like  distant  thunder,  which  it  may  have  been. 
Then  came  the  hailstones  flying  in  every  direc- 
tion. Our  windows,  which  open  like  doors, 
were  thrown  back,  or  they  must  inevitably  have 
been  broken  to  pieces.  The  largest  hailstones 
were  the  size  of  an  egg,  but  most  of  them  were 
somewhat  smaller.  The  ground  was  white  with 
them.  When  Mr.  Nevius  returned  from  chapel, 
soon  after  the  storm  was  over,  he  proposed,  just 
for  the  novelty  of  the  thing,  to  gather  the  hail- 
stones and  make  ice-cream  with  them.  Little 
children  in  the  neighborhood  joined  in  the  fun, 
and  soon  there  were  two  large  buckets  collected, 
and  the  ice-cream  was  made  forthwith. 

In  this  month  the  literary  examinations  were 
held  in  Tung-chow ; and  scholars  from  all  parts 
of  the  promontory  were  collected.  There  were 
said  to  be  more  than  four  thousand  there  at  one 
time.  All  the  chapels  were  kept  open  from 
early  in  the  morning  until  late  at  night,  and 
our  houses  were  overflowing  with  visitors.  It 
was  a capital  time  for  preaching  and  distributing 
books. 

One  Sabbath  morning  in  July,  when  we  were 
up  at  Mr.  Hartwell’s  attending  an  English  ser- 
vice, we  heard  for  the  first  time,  that  cholera 
had  broken  out  at  Yentai,  with  great  mortality 


390 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


among  the  natives.  I think  it  was  the  evening 
of  the  same  day  that  we  heard  of  the  death  of 
Mrs.  Dudley  Smith,  from  that  disease,  at  Chu- 
kee.  Only  a few  weeks  before  we  had  enjoyed 
a delightful  visit  from  her  at  Tung-chow.  Mrs. 
Smith  was  one  of  those  rare  characters  who 
seem  fitted  to  grace  any  sphere.  Intellectual, 
and  thoroughly  educated,  with  fine  conversa- 
tional talents  and  a cheerful  temperament,  she 
was  a great  acquisition  to  our  little  mission  cir- 
cle ; while  in  any  society,  either  at  home  or 
abroad,  her  presence  would  have  been  no  less 
welcome.  I think  her  friends  in  China  will  re- 
member, as  a most  prominent  characteristic,  her 
peculiar  unselfishness,  together  with  her  unusual 
efficiency  in  every  emergency.  We  saw  both  of 
these  traits  illustrated  in  her  care  for  the 
wounded  among  the  sufferers  from  the  rebels. 
She  appeared  to  know  intuitively  just  what 
was  required  to  be  done,  and  never  shrank  from 
a disagreeable  duty  if  her  services  seemed  nec- 
essary. We  had  hoped  much  from  the  influence 
of  her  beautiful  life,  no  less  than  from  her  active 
labors  among  the  Chinese ; and  her  sudden  re- 
moval appeared  to  us  a dark  and  mysterious 
providence. 

Before  we  had  at  all  recovered  from  the  effects 


CHOLERA. 


891 


of  this  sad  event,  news  reached  us  from  Yentai 
of  the  death  of  Madame  Bonheur,  and  of  a 
daughter  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hall,  — the  pretty, 
bright  little  Theresa, — both  from  cholera.  Mad- 
ame Bonheur  was  a charming  person,  uniting 
real  worth  with  vivacious  manners  and  disposi- 
tion. She  spoke  German  and  English  quite  as 
well  as  her  native  French,  and  was  highly  ac- 
complished. She  had  been  in  China  too  short  a 
time  to  have  acquired  that  language,  or  to  com- 
mence any  kind  of  missionary  work.  Must  we 
then  think  her  brief  life,  or  that  of  others,  who, 
like  her,  have  been  early  called  hence,  either 
wasted  or  a failure?  Ah,  no!  Let  us  trust 
Him  who  knows  best  when  to  remove  those  who 
love  Him,  and  whom  He  loves,  from  earth  to 
heaven,  that  their  offering  has  been  accepted, 
and  that  the  good  they  had  willed  to  do,  He 
will  accomplish  for  them  ; while  they  are  spared 
the  sorrow  and  care  of  a longer  life  in  a world 
which  must  be  to  every  one,  more  or  less,  a 
“ valley  of  tears.” 

Only  a day  or  so  later  we  heard  of  the 
death  of  Mr.  Hall,  at  Yentai,  from  the  same 
disease.  He  had  a medical  education,  and,  dur- 
ing the  ravages  of  the  pestilence,  had  been  in- 
defatigable in  his  efforts  to  assist  ana  relieve  the 


392 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


poor  natives  in  their  terror  and  distress.  Up  to 
the  time  of  his  own  illness  he  was  constantly 
going  among  them  with  remedies  and  advice. 
Death  found  him  at  the  post  of  duty. 

Just  at  this  time,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mills,  from 
Shanghai,  arrived  at  Yentai  en  roitfe  for  Tung- 
chow.  Previous  to  leaving  home  she  had  lost  a 
little  boy,  from  cholera,  and  on  the  passage  from 
Shanghai  had  herself  been  at  the  point  of 
death  from  that  disease.  Hearing  of  their  arri- 
val, Mr.  Gayley,  their  brother-in-law,  went  to 
Che-foo  to  accompany  them  to  our  city;  for 
which  place  they  were  on  the  eve  of  starting, 
when  the  Mills’  only  remaining  child  was  stricken 
down  with  cholera.  After  a few  hours’  illness 
he  died  ; and  the  next  day,  his  sorrowing  parents, 
with  Mr.  Gayley,  brought  his  body,  to  place  it 
in  our  burial-ground  at  Tung-chow. 

Symptoms  of  cholera  speedily  developed  them- 
selves in  Mr.  Gayley ; but  remedies  wei’e 
promptly  applied,  which  we  hoped  would  be  suc- 
cessful. He  seemed  recovering ; but  a relapse 
took  place,  and  almost  before  we  realized  his 
danger  he  was  taken  from  us.  Many  circum- 
stances connected  with  Mr.  Gayley’s  death  were 
peculiarly  afflictive.  Mr.  Mills  and  he,  besides 
being  brothers-in-law,  had  been,  for  years,  most 


CHOLERA. 


393 


intimate  and  congenial  friends  ; and  they  and 
their  families  had  anticipated  great  happiness  in 
being  associated  in  that  new  and  promising  sta- 
tion. Mr.  Gayley’s  disposition  was  amiable 
and  lovely ; and  he  was  well  qualified  for  useful- 
ness among  the  Chinese,  to  whom  he  had  become 
much  attached.  His  loss  was  a very  great  one 
to  them,  as  well  as  to  us  and  his  family. 

Mrs.  Gayley  was  left  with  two  children,  — one 
a boy  of  five  or  six  years,  and  the  other  a 
beautiful  little  girl  not  two  years  old.  Only 
one  week  passed,  however,  before  that  dear  child 
was  taken  from  her.  After  a few  hours’  suffer- 
ing, she,  too,  slept  in  death.  Mrs.  Gayley’s  sis- 
ter, Mrs.  Doolittle,  was  then  visiting  Tung-chow, 
with  her  two  children,  both  of  whom  were  ill  with 
cholera.  One  recovered,  but  the  other,  after 
lin°;erin<2;  several  weeks,  died. 

There  were  no  other  clearly  marked  cases  of 
cholera  among  the  foreigners,  but  it  raged  among 
the  natives  frightfully.  From  morning  until 
night  we  could  hear  from  neighboring  houses 
sounds  of  weeping  and  wailing,  while  new-made 
graves  were  seen  in  every  direction.  It  is  not 
usual  for  the  Chinese  to  bury  their  dead  soon 
after  their  decease  ; but  among  the  very  poor,  or 
in  cases  of  emergency,  such,  for  instance,  as 


394 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


the  prevalence  of  cholera  during  the  height  of 
summer,  it  is  often  clone. 

A minute  account  of  the  rites  and  ceremonies 
observed  in  China,  connected  with  death  and 
burial,  would  necessarily  be  very  lengthy,  and 
to  most  persons  tedious.  An  accurate  descrip- 
tion of  these  and  other  peculiarities  and  customs 
can  be  found  in  Doolittle’s  “ Social  Life  of  the 
Chinese,”  where  two  or  three  long  chapters  are 
devoted  to  “ Death,  Mourning,  and  Burial,” 
alone.  Some  of  these  observances  are  extraor- 
dinary and  inexplicable;  others,  again,  are  quite 
rational  and  proper. 

There  is  a great  deal  of  noisy  demonstration 
both  at  the  time  of  death  and  at  prescribed  in- 
tervals until  the  burial  has  taken  place,  and  for 
weeks  afterwards.  They  have  no  one  ceremony 
corresponding  to  our  funeral  services ; but  in 
place  of  them  there  are  chantings  and  idolatrous 
performances  by  either  Buddhist  or  Tauist 
priests.  Gongs,  fire-crackers,  and  most  doleful 
music,  loud  weeping,  and  the  customary  wailings, 
all  combine  to  prevent  a funeral  occasion  from 
being  solemn,  or,  in  most  instances,  even  sad.  I 
believe  it  is  considered  an  accomplishment  to 
know  how  to  “ wail  ” properly;  and  if  this  con- 
sists in  being  able  to  counterfeit  the  sounds  and 


CHOLERA. 


395 


semblance  of  deepest  woe,  success  in  the  art  is 
often  attained.  I cannot  tell  the  number  of 
times  in  which  I have  been  completely  imposed 
upon,  and  allowed  my  sympathy  to  be  aroused 
quite  unnecessarily.  One  day,  in  Tung-chow, 
as  we  were  passing  a house,  a funeral  procession 
emerged  from  it.  Half  a dozen  large  mats  had 
been  spread  on  the  ground  before  the  door. 
Presently  twenty  or  thirty  women  came  out, 
all  dressed  in  sackcloth  from  head  to  foot. 
Half  of  them,  probably  the  near  relatives, 
knelt  on  the  mats,  bowing  towards  the  coffin, 
until  their  heads  touched  the  ground.  They 
were  all  weeping  and  wailing  bitterly.  One  in 
particular  seemed  in  a paroxysm  of  grief.  11  0 
my  father  ! my  father  ! ” she  cried  at  the  top 
of  her  voice.  There  is  real,  uncontrollable  grief, 
thought  I,  while  my  heart  ached  in  sympathy. 
Put  just  then,  at  a given  signal  from  the  master 
of  ceremonies,  her  voice  and  every  other  was 
hushed  ; their  distorted  features  resumed  their 
usual  placidity,  and  all  appearance  of  sorrow 
disappeared.  A large  red  canopy  was  held  over 
the  coffin,  which,  accompanied  by  the  male  friends 
and  relatives  of  the  deceased,  was  carried  off  to 
the  grave.  The  women,  after  following  it  a few 
steps,  all  returned  very  quietly  to  their  dwelling. 


396 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


In  this  case,  I think  it  had  been  weeks,  if  not 
months,  since  the  death  occurred. 

I do  not  wish  to  give  the  idea  that  the  Chi- 
nese are  heartless.  I do  not  consider  them  so  ; 
but  I think  their  deepest  grief  is  not  often  man- 
ifested on  these  public  occasions. 

But  to  return  to  Tung-chow,  and  the  sad 
events  occurring  there.  In  the  absence  of  any 
physician  we  prepared  quantities  of  medicine, 
and  gave  it  freely  to  all  who  desired  it ; and  we 
had  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  in  many 
instances  it  proved  efficacious.  There  was  a 
little  herdsboy  employed  by  us  to  lead  away 
our  cows  to  pasture  on  the  hill-side,  and  watch 
them  there.  One  day  he  was  absent,  and  on 
inquiring  for  him  we  found  that  he  was  ill,  — so 
ill  that  his  friends  had  laid  him  out  to  die, 
thinking  he  was  past  hope  of  recovery.  We 
sent  him  medicine  with  all  haste,  and  it  had  so 
rapid  an  effect  that  in  a few  hours  he  was  out 
of  danger. 

A man  whom  we  had  just  engaged  as  a ser- 
vant in  our  family,  being  attacked  with  cholera, 
was  determined  to  return  at  once  to  his  home  in 
the  country,  miles  distant.  A mule-litter  was 
procured  for  him.  As  he  was  about  starting,  a 
fellow-townsman  who  was  Mrs.  Cayley’s  servant 


CHOLERA. 


397 


came  to  him,  desirous  of  sending  a message  to 
his  family,  informing  them  of  his  own  continued 
health.  A few  moments  after,  he  was  attacked 
with  cholera  in  its  most  dreadful  form.  His  suf- 
ferings were  past  description  ; and  before  the 
message  to  his  family  could  have  been  received 
he  was  a corpse. 

I think  Mr.  Hartwell’s  teacher  and  servants 
were  all  ill ; but,  owing  perhaps  to  early  remedies 
and  most  faithful  nursing,  they  all  recovered. 
We  had  no  other  cases  of  cholera  in  our  own  fam- 
ily: and,  notwithstanding  all  our  anxiety  and 
grief  for  the  loss  of  so  many  valued  friends  and 
associates,  we  continued  through  the  whole  of 
that  trying  time  quite  as  well  as  usual. 

I have  not  mentioned  the  arrival  of  Dr.  and 
Mrs.  McCartee,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Green  from 
Ningpo,  and  Mr.  Smith  and  his  little  daughter 
from  Yentai,  whom  we  had  the  pleasure  of  wel- 
coming, a few  days  after  Mr.  Gayley’s  death,  to 
the  Kwan-yin  tang.  In  order  to  accomodate 
them  Mr.  Nevius’  study  and  the  dining-room 
had  to  be  turned  into  guest-chambers,  and  we 
dined  in  pleasant  weather  on  the  veranda,  at 
other  times  in  the  parlor.  The  society  of  these 
dear  friends  was  more  than  sufficient  to  compen- 


398 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


sate  for  some  trifling  changes  in  our  household 
arrangements. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Green’s  little  son  had  been  ill 
for  a long  time,  and  they  brought  him  North, 
hoping  a change  of  climate  might  benefit  him. 
It  was,  however,  too  late  for  any  such  favorable 
result.  One  night,  only  a week  after  they  came 
to  us,  while  all  — even  his  parents  — slept, 

“ An  angel  with  an  amaranthine  wreath, 

Pausing,  descended,  and,  with  voice  divine, 
Whispered  a word  that  had  a sound  like  Death. 

“ There  fell  upon  the  house  a sudden  gloom, 

' A shadow  on  those  features  fair  and  thin ; 

And  softly  from  that  hushed  and  darkened  room 
Two  angels  issued,  where  but  one  went  in.” 

When  the  morning  dawned,  “ Little  Willie  ” 
was  no  longer  with  us. 

After  the  cholera  had  abated  at  Tung-chow,  it 
still  lingered  in  neighboring  cities  and  villages. 
In  the  southern  ports  there  is  usually  more  or 
less  cholera  every  summer.  There  were  many 
cases  in  Shanghai  during  the  summer  of  1862. 
It  was  then  that  the  lamented  Mr.  Culbertson 
died  of  that  disease ; but  I never,  while  there, 
heard  of  its  sweeping  over  the  country  as  a gen- 
eral and  fatal  epidemic,  as  in  the  West,  or  other 
parts  of  China. 


CHOLERA. 


399 


I think  there  was  a similar  visitation  of  it  in 
the  North  twenty  or  thirty  years  ago,  but  none 
had  occurred  since ; and  I do  not  know  that 
we  would  be  more  liable  to  it  there  than  in  this 
country. 

The  Greens  were  with  us  until  the  middle  of 
September,  when  they  returned  to  Ningpo.  The 
McCartees  remained  a few  weeks  longer,  and 
then  removed  to  Che-foo,  where  they  had  decided 
to  locate. 

Early  in  October  Mrs.  Gayley  left  China.  It 
was  with  deep  regret  that  we  bade  her  farewell, 
for  she  was  a much  esteemed  and  congenial  mis- 
sionary associate. 

The  news  of  Mr.  Gayley’ s death  reached 
Shanghai  just  as  Mr.  Culbertson  was  breathing 
his  last. 


400 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

WORK  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CHOW. 

During  the  warmest  weather  of  summer, 
especially  while  cholera  was  prevailing,  mis- 
sionary work  was  naturally  much  interrupted. 
However,  I found  myself  becoming  familiar  with 
the  dialect ; and,  after  we  had  settled  down  again 
in  a quiet  routine  of  daily  work,  I began  a 
course  of  visiting  among  the  native  families, 
either  our  near  neighbors,  or  others  somewhat 
remote.  Of  some  of  these  visits,  and  of  vari- 
ous incidents  occurring  from  day  to  day,  I kept 
a record  in  my  journal.  On  the  seventeenth  of 
October  I wrote  as  follows:  “After  studying 
with  my  teacher,  and  arranging  for  dmner,  I 
took  my  good  washerman  Futang  (who  is, 
we  think,  a sincere  Christian),  and  went  out 
to  make  some  calls  on  our  nearest  neighbors. 
Turning  up  a long,  narrow  lane,  and  entering  a 
small  court,  a woman  saw  us  and  came  out  to 
invite  us  to  her  room.  The  only  vacant  chair  was 


WORK  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CHOW.  401 


given  me,  and  after  seating  myself  I began  the 
conversation  by  the  usual  inquiry,  ‘ What  is 
your  honorable  name?’  £Kong,’  she  replied; 

‘ what  is  yours?’  ‘Nee,’  I said.  Then  fol- 
lowed the  customary  questions,  ‘ How  old  are 
you  ? How  many  children  have  you  ? ’ etc.,  etc. 
In  the  meanwhile  her  co-lodgers  had  gathered 
in,  in  all  six  or  eight  persons.  After  talking 
some  time  myself,  I requested  Futang  to  explain 
more  fully  the  truths  of  our  religion.  He  spoke 
beautifully,  with  great  animation,  and  just  to  the 
point. 

“ Going  from  here,  an  open  door,  with  two  young 
women  peeping  out  from  behind  it,  seemed,  I 
thought,  an  indication  that  I ought  to  enter. 
So  I spoke  to  the  young  women,  saying  that  as 
I was  a neighbor,  I had  come  for  a friendly  call, 
and  would  have  done  so  sooner  had  my  health 
allowed.  A few  kind  words  are  generally 
enough  to  gain  me  a cordial  welcome  anywhere, 
and  in  a few  moments  my  new  acquaintances  and 
I are  chatting  like  old  friends.  But  here  not 
an  answering  smile  could  I gain.  The  older 
woman  of  the  family  looked  like  an  icicle,  and 
the  others  were  not  much  better.  They  seemed 
very  unhappy  among  themselves;  and  I sus- 
pected their  coldness  towards  me  originated  in 
26 


402 


OTJR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


that  cause,  rather  than  in  intentional  rudeness. 
I would  have  remained  longer  with  them,  only 
that  the  room  where  we  were  sitting  was  so  full 
of  tobacco-smoke  that  I could  scarcely  breathe. 

“I  was  about  going  to  a house  a little  distance 
from  there,  on  the  same  side  of  the  street,  but 
‘ a lion  in  the  way,’  in  the  shape  of  a fierce 
barking  dog,  frightened  me  off,  I confess  it, 
and  I entered  a doorway  opposite.  Here  a nice- 
looking  old  lady  made  her  appearance,  and  cor- 
dially invited  me  in.  I loved  her  at  once,  she 
looked  so  like  a dear  old  ‘ home  grandmother ; ’ 
all  except  her  soiled,  torn  dress.  And  oh,  what 
would  a tidy  old  American  lady  say  to  the  con- 
fusion of  the  room  into  which  she  led  me  ? The 
‘ kang  ’ was  covered  with  garments,  upon  which 
they  were  engaged  in  sewing.  A bench  at  one 
side  was  covered  by  jars  containing  grain  of 
some  sort  in  process  of  fermentation,  the  odor 
from  which  was  very  disagreeable ; while  crocks 
and  earthen  vessels  of  various  descriptions  were 
scattered  promiscuously,  without  the  least  at- 
tempt at  order,  and  everything  was  dusty  and 
untidy.  Notwithstanding  all  this,  I had  a pleas- 
ant visit ; the  old  woman  was  very  ready  to  lis- 
ten, while  her  replies  showed  that  she  really 
understood  what  she  heard.  Her  daughter- in- 


WORK  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CHOW.  403 

law  also  appeared  nicely.  I invited  them  to 
come  and  see  me,  and  promised  to  visit  them 
again  soon. 

‘ ‘ At  the  next  house  we  had  also  a rather  en- 
couraging visit.  I noticed,  standing  on  a kind 
of  dressing-table,  two  cases  containing  each  six 
little  idols,  prettily  dressed  and  painted.  They 
looked  exactly  like  dolls.  I asked  if  they  were 
in  the  habit  of  worshipping  them.  Not  know- 
ing that  I would  disapprove  of  it,  they  promptly 
answered,  ‘Yes.’  I told  them  that  in  our 
country  we  had  little  figures  precisely  like 
those,  for  young  children  to  play  with,  but  we 
would  never  dream  of  worshipping  them.  And 
then  I explained  to  them  that  our  object  in  liv- 
ing in  their  midst  was  to  urge  them  to  forsake 
their  senseless  idols,  and  learn  to  love  the  Lord 
their  Maker  and  Saviour.  My  voice  had  already 
nearly  given  out,  so  I allowed  Futang  to  do  the 
most  of  the  talking.  When  we  came  away  from 
this  place  we  left  several  books,  as  we  had  also 
at  each  of  the  other  houses.” 

I was  greatly  pleased  with  Futang.  Though 
only  an  ordinary  servant,  with  scarcely  any  edu- 
cation, he  was  just  what  I needed  in  these  visits 
among  the  women.  According  to  Chinese  ideas, 
it  was  quite  proper  that  I should  be  thus  accom- 


404 


OUR  LIFE  IX  CHINA. 


panied.  I was  careful  to  discourage  his  as- 
suming any  consequential  airs  on  account  of 
being  made  so  much  of  a preacher,  and  I do  not 
think  it  injured  him. 

I had  a call  that  same  afternoon  from  two 
women  who  lived  near  the  Kwan-yin  tang.  One 
of  them  was  very  old ; the  other  worried  con- 
stantly because  “she  had  so  many  children  she 
did  not  know  what  to  do.”  The  first-mentioned 
came  to  see  me  very  often.  She  had  a way  of 
groaning,  or  rather  grunting,  the  whole  time,  I 
think  from  habit  merely,  as  she  did  not  seem 
ill.  She  had  gained  in  consequence  the  very 
inelegant  sobriquet , “The  old  grunter.” 

Lin  sin-sang,  who  was  then  in  mission  employ, 
and  Ning-kwe,  the  Ningpo  assistant,  returned 
that  evening  from  a three  weeks’  tour  in  the 
country.  They  had  met  with  a good  deal  of  en- 
couragement, and  seemed  to  have  been  very 
laborious  and  faithful. 

The  next  day,  after  the  usual  Sabbath  ser- 
vices were  over,  as  I was  teaching  my  woman, 
and  the  young  wife  of  one  of  the  native  con- 
verts, — we  were  conversing  about  idol-worship, 
which  they  both  condemned  as  at  once  senseless 
and  useless, — Foh-hyi  sao  (literally,  sister-in- 
law  Foh-hyi)  said,  “I  never  worshipped  idols, 


WOKE  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CHOW.  405 

even  before  I beard  of  the  religion  of  Jesus.” 
“Why  not?”  I asked.  “Because  I did  not 
like  them.”  “But,”  I further  inquired,  “if 
you  did  not  believe  in  your  own  religions,  what 
did  you  believe ; who  did  you  think  had  given 
you  your  being?”  “I  did  not  think  at  all,” 
was  her  honest  confession.  This  thoughtlessness, 
I imagine,  is  the  strongest  of  all  reasons  why 
the  poor  creatures  seem  so  contented  in  their 
ignorance. 

I used  occasionally,  when  I had  particular 
families  in  view  who  lived  at  a distance  from  the 
Ivwan-yin  tang,  to  ride  a donkey,  Futang  ac- 
companying me ; and  once  or  twice,  after  some 
other  visits  had  been  paid,  I went  to  his  house, 
which  was  in  a remote  part  of  the  city.  It  sur- 
prised me  to  see  how  differently  he  appeared 
there  from  what  he  did  at  our  house.  He  said 
nothing  amiss,  but  his  manner  was  decidedly 
lordly. 

One  day,  when  Futang’s  engagements  were 
such  that  he  could  not  accompany  me,  I took  my 
ah-m,  Tsu  sao-sao  (that  is,  sister-in-law  of  the 
Tsu  family),  as  she  was  called  by  the  natives. 
As  we  were  leaving  the  first  house,  where  noth- 
ing had  occurred  worth  mentioning,  a little  girl 
came  to  us,  and  very  politely  asked  us  to  go  and 


406 


OUB  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


see  her  mother,  who  lived  next  door.  The 
mother  informed  me,  the  first  sentence  I uttered, 
(which  was  simply,  “Nihaoma?”  equivalent 
to  “How  do  you  do?”)  that  she  could  not  un- 
derstand a word  I said.  But  I seated  myself  on 
the  side  of  the  harm,  and  began  talking ; and 
she  did  understand,  in  spite  of  herself.  “ I do 
so  want  you  to  believe  what  we  tell  you  about 
Jesus,”  said  I.  “Why,  of  course  I believe; 
why  shouldn’t  I?”  she  replied.  She  and  I 
evidently  had  different  ideas  as  to  what  “be- 
lieving” consisted  in;  but  she  was  simple- 
minded  and  well-disposed,  and  it  was  a pleas- 
ure to  talk  with  her. 

Across  the  same  court  were  two  women,  one 
named  Liang,  and  the  other  Li.  I went  to 
Mrs.  Liang’s  room  first.  I remembered  her  as 
a person  whom  I had  seen  before,  and  it  pleased 
her  to  find  that  she  was  recognized.  In  the 
course  of  our  conversation,  I was  explaining 
how  we  poor  mortals  are  constantly  sinning; 
and  thus,  as  every  sin  deserves  a punishment, 
how  much  we  need  a Saviour.  Said  I,  “ Every 
time  we  get  angry , we  are  guilty  of  sin.” 
“Why,”  exclaimed  Mrs.  Liang,  “lam  angry 
all  the  time  ! I scarcely  think  that  can  be  sin.” 
Afterwards,  as  I was  telling  them  that  at  death 


WORK  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CHOW.  407 

good  people  go  to  heaven,  while  the  wicked 
must  go  to  liell,  Mrs.  Liang  shocked  me  by 
saying,  very  quietly,  11 1 am  going  to  hell;  I 
wish  to.”  I scarcely  knew  what  to  say,  but 
replied,  “You  deserve  to  go  to  hell ; but  I do 
not  think  you  really  desire  to.”  “Yes,  I wish 
to  go  there  ; it  is  the  place  for  me,”  she  insisted. 
“Very  well,  then,”  said  I,  “if  that  is  so,  I 
will  not  talk  to  you  about  J esus  ; you  must  not 
believe  in  him ; for  if  you  do,  you  cannot  go 
where  you  say  you  wish  to.”  I crossed  over 
to  see  Mrs.  Li,  who  was  a young  and  intelligent 
woman.  I was  pleased  to  find  that  she  could 
read  a little.  She  was  the  only  one  among  all 
these  common  people  who  knew  anything  of 
letters.  I was  already  too  tired  to  talk  much, 
so  I remained  here  only  a short  time.  As  I was 
coming  out  I met  Mrs.  Liang  again,  and  said  to 
her,  “How  could  you  say  you  wished  to  go  to 
that  fearful  place  of  punishment?”  To  which 
she  replied,  “ I have  no  children;  my  sons  are 
dead;  why  should  I care  to  live  longer?” 
“But,”  said  I,  “ I have  no  children  either,  yet 
I have  no  such  feelings  as  you  have  expressed.” 
“ Oh,”  she  exclaimed,  “your  situation  is  as  dif- 
ferent from  mine  as  heaven  is  from  earth.  You 
have  clothes  to  wear,  food  to  eat,  and  a home. 


408 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Just  think  of  me  ! What  have  I to  live  for?” 
I did  so  pity  the  woman.  She  did  not  ap- 
pear to  be  extremely  poor,  but  seemed  so  deso- 
late and  despairing.  I do  not  think  she  meant 
more  by  her  reckless  language,  than  simply  to 
say  that  she  would  rather  die  than  live.  Now 
that  her  children  were  dead,  she  could  imagine 
no  place  more  miserable  than  this  world  was  to  her. 

On  the  twentieth  of  October  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Mc- 
Cartee  left  for  Yentai,  after  having  been  with  us 
for  three  months.  We  missed  them  sadly;  for 
their  sojourn  with  us  had  been  a most  pleasant 
episode.  As,  however,  they  were  only  going  to 
Ohe-foo,  sixty  miles  distant,  we  still  considered 
each  other  as  “neighbors.” 

About  this  date  there  were  several  additions 
to  our  church,  among  them,  my  woman  Tsu  sao- 
sao.  She  had  been  with  me  nearly  a year,  but 
for  the  first  few  months  I could  not  feel  very 
hopeful  of  her  becoming  a Christian.  What 
first  gave  me  much  encouragement  about  her 
was  finding  that  she  had  been  active  in  spreading 
a knowledge  of  Christianity  among  her  friends 
and  relatives.  The  day  of  her  baptism  she  said 
to  me,  quite  of  her  own  accord,  “Nee  S-meo 
(Mrs.  N.),  my  heart  is  very  joyful.  At  night, 
upon  my  bed,  I lie  awake  and  think  of  Jesus, 


WORK  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CHOW.  409 

and  his  great  goodness  in  bringing  me  to  a 
knowledge  of  himself,  and  in  allowing  me  to 
receive  baptism  and  become  his  disciple.  How 
can  I be  thankful  enough  ! I am  certainly  in- 
expressibly happy.”  She  seemed  to  have  sin- 
cere and  unusual  faith  in  prayer.  I found  that 
she  had  been  teaching  her  neighbors  very  liter- 
ally that  whatever  they  asked  for  in  faith  they 
would  assuredly  receive.  And  her  teachings  met 
with  a striking  confirmation.  A woman  living 
within  the  same  enclosure,  whose  room  was  next 
hers,  was  loimin£  for  the  return  of  her  husband, 
who  had  been  absent  from  home  seven  years. 
Tsu  sao-sao  advised  her  to  ask  the  “ True  God  ” 
to  send  him  back.  And  sure  enough,  a few  days 
later  he  returned. 

Tsu  sao-sao,  although  I think  she  was  a sin- 
cere Christian,  gave  me  in  various  ways  a good 
deal  of  trouble.  She  was  of  rather  too  respect- 
able a class  to  feel  contented  in  her  situation  as 
a servant ; and  after  a time  I concluded  that  it 
would  be  better  for  both  of  us  that  she  should 
return  to  her  home.  She  is  now  dead.  Mr. 
Mills,  who  wrote  to  us  of  her  illness  and  death, 
felt  hopeful  of  her ; and  I do  trust  that  she  is 
now  where  “faith  is  lost  in  sight.” 

Late  in  the  autumn  of  1862,  I commenced  a 


410 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


small  school  for  girls.  I had  at  first  only  two 
pupils,  and  they  were  daughters  of  church-mem- 
bers. One,  the  younger  and  pleasanter,  was 
Hyiang-yuing,  adopted  child  of  Chang,  my 
teacher ; the  other,  Tsing-hyiang,  was  the 
daughter  of  a man  usually  called  “ Oil  Wang,” 
his  occupation  being  that  of  peddling  oil.  I had 
also,  for  several  weeks,  the  wife  of  an  old  church- 
member,  named  Cheo,  staying  with  me.  I 
think  I scarcely  ever  met  any  one  else  who  had 
so  few  ideas.  She  was  not  very  aged,  certainly 
not  over  seventy,  but  her  memory  was  so  impaired 
that  she  would  forget  nearly  as  fast  as  she 
learned.  But  the  poor  old  lady  was  really  de- 
sirous to  understand  “the  religion,”  and  I was 
determined  that,  if  she  did  not,  it  should  certainly 
be  no  fault  of  mine.  She  was  a whole  week  in 
learning  the  one  verse,  “ Thou  shalt  love  the 
Lord  thy  God  with  all  thy  heart,”  etc.  I com- 
posed a short  and  simple  prayer,  suited  as  I 
thought  to  her  capacity ; but  she  was  more  than 
a week  in  learning  the  first  half  dozen  sen- 
tences. It  was  both  amusing  and  pitiable  to  see 
her  engaged  in  study,  sitting  on  the  kang,  with 
her  prayer  spread  open  before  her.  She  would  point 
with  her  poor  withered  finger  to  character  after 
character,  highly  delighted  with  every  successful 


WOKE  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CHOW.  411 

effort  to  call  them  to  mind,  and  equally  vexed 
when  memory  failed  her  and  she  found  both 
word  and  meaning  gone  from  her.  I have  no- 
ticed her  many  a time  raise  her  clenched  fist  and 
strike  her  own  forehead  a hard  blow,  determined 
that  if  there  were  any  virtue  in  beating,  to 
quicken  a dormant  memory,  she  would  not  be 
deprived  of  it.  I expended  a great  deal  of  time 
and  patience  upon  her ; and  the  two  girls, 
Hyiang-yuing  and  Tsing-hyiang,  also  taught 
her  faithfully.  She  had  line  upon  line.  At 
last  our  exertions  were  signally  rewarded.  After 
weeks  of  drilling,  she  could  repeat  the  whole 
prayer,  understanding  it  fully.  She  knew  also 
a great  deal  of  Bible  history,  and  we  thought 
she  perfectly  comprehended  the  plan  of  salva- 
tion through  Christ.  Her  husband  had  always 
represented  her  to  me  as  stupid  beyond  any  pos- 
sibility of  learning  anything ; and  I shall  never 
forget  his  astonishment  when  he  found  his  mis- 
take. He  was  in  the  parlor  one  day,  and  I sent 
for  Mrs.  Cheo ; the  time  for  the  grand  exhibi- 
tion having  arrived.  I was  fearful  that  the  sight 
of  her  lord  might  frighten  away  all  her  hard- 
earned  knowledge,  and  I think  it  would,  had  I 
allowed  him  to  speak  to  her.  But  I began  in  a 
very  quiet  way,  asking  her  such  questions  as  I 


412 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


felt  sure  she  could  not  have  forgotten,  and  she 
gradually  gained  confidence,  until  her  display  of 
erudition  surprised  even  me.  We  went  over  the 
story  of  the  Creation,  the  Fall,  with  some  allu- 
sions to  various  Old  Testament  characters,  then 
on  to  the  New,  our  Saviour's  birth,  his  holy 
life  and  teachings,  and  finally  his  death,  and 
the  object  for  which  he  died.  At  last  Mr.  Cheo 
could  restrain  himself  no  longer,  and,  striking 
his  hands  with  all  his  might  upon  his  knees,  he 
shouted,  “ Wonderful ! wonderful ! I never 
could  have  believed  it ! Never  ! Never  ! ” I 
am  not  sure  but  that  the  old  man  half  thought 
there  was  something  miraculous  about  it.  Mrs. 
Cheo  herself  was  greatly  delighted  that  her 
reputation  for  hopeless  stupidity  was  in  a meas- 
ure removed.  I was  sorry  that  she  could  not 
remain  with  us  longer,  for  her  mind,  which  had 
been  such  a blank,  seemed  waking  up,  and  I 
think  she  might  in  time  have  become  an  intel- 
ligent Christian.  Her  husband  was  a most  sin- 
gular character.  We  thought  him  in  some  re- 
spects hardly  sane,  but  he  gave  evidence  of  real 
faith  in  Jesus,  and  was  received  by  baptism  into 
our  church  in  Tung-chow. 

My  teacher,  Chang,  also  taught  the  two  girls, 
Tsing-hyiang  and  Hyiang-yuing,  the  character , 


WORK  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TLTNG-CIIOW.  413 

with  which  they  were  before  unacquainted.  Les- 
sons in  the  Bible  I gave  them  myself.  I enjoyed 
instructing  them,  as  they  were  anxious  to  learn  ; 
and  Hyiang-yuing  especially  was  a lovely  girl. 
I was  one  day  asking  her  if  she  had  formerly 
enjoyed  going  to  the  temples  to  worship.  She 
replied,  “ No,  not  at  all.”  When  I inquired 
the  reason  of  her  dislike,  she  said,  drawing  her- 
self into  the  attitude  of  a <£  graven  image,”  and 
assuming  as  ugly  and  repulsive  an  expression  as 
possible,  “ Oh,  the  idols  looked  so;  and  I could 
not  endure  them!”  adding,  “Mother  did  not 
like  them  either ; she  said  they  were  only  made 
of  mud  or  wood.”  Very  soon  after  Hyiang-yuing 
came  to  us,  we  felt  convinced  that  she  both  loved 
and  trusted  in  Jesus  as  her  Saviour.  She  was 
ever  studious,  obedient,  and  amiable,  and  gave  us 
little  trouble  of  any  sort.  Tsing-hyiang  was  very 
unlike  her.  Although  a pretty  girl,  and  of  a nat- 
urally pleasant  disposition,  she  had  been  thor- 
oughly spoiled  by  her  parents,  who  had  indulged 
her  every  whim,  and  cultivated  a spirit  of  self- 
will  and  insubordination,  which  made  her  a diffi- 
cult pupil  to  deal  with.  Still  she,  too,  soon 
gave  evidence  of  a pleasing  change  of  character, 
the  result,  we  hoped,  of  the  influence  of  the 
Holy  Spirit  upon  her  heart. 


414 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Our  second  winter  confirmed  us  in  our  opin- 
ion of  the  favorable  climate  of  that  part  of 
Shantung.  The  weather  was  almost  uniformly 
bright  and  beautiful,  and  though  colder  than 
Ningpo,  it  really  seemed  warmer.  Snow  fell  to 
the  depth  of  several  inches  or  a foot,  but  did 
not  lie  long,  disappearing  without  any  general 
“ thaw,”  such  as  frequently  makes  our  winters 
in  America  so  disagreeable.  The  smaller  streams 
were  all  frozen,  and  ice  formed  in  solid  blocks  on 
the  beach,  like  huge  bowlders,  though  the  sea 
was  not  frozen,  except  close  to  shore. 

Before  the  close  of  January,  1862,  another 
little  grave  was  made  in  our  fast-filling  ceme- 
tery. It  was  that  of  an  infant  daughter  of  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Hartwell,  who  died,  it  was  supposed, 
from  the  effects  of  cholera,  which  she  had 
months  before  while  it  was  prevailing  in  Tung- 
chow. 

Although  my  health  during  this  winter  was 
not  good,  I was  able,  with  some  interruptions,  to 
continue  my  ordinary  duties,  teaching  the  pupils, 
visiting  the  women,  and  studying  the  written 
language,  which  was  so  engrossing  that  I was 
constantly  tempted  to  confine  myself  too  closely 
to  it. 

In  our  instruction  of  pupils  and  inquirers,  we 


WORK  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CHOW.  415 

felt  the  want  of  a catechism  in  Mandarin,  and 
I was  glad  to  be  able  to  put  my  newly  acquired 
knowledge  of  the  character  to  account  in  pre- 
paring one.  It  was  not  a translation,  as  I knew 
of  none  which  was  exactly  what  we  needed ; 
some  being  too  simple,  and  others,  like  the 
“ Shorter  Catechism,”  much  too  profound  for 
women  or  children,  who  had  not  been  previously 
instructed.  Mine  began  with  such  questions  as 
were  comprehensible  to  the  most  ignorant,  but 
soon  passed  on  to  subjects  from  the  Bible,  em- 
bracing a compendium  of  both  Old  and  New 
Testament  history,  the  fundamental  and  essen- 
tial doctrines  of  the  Christian  system,  and  ex- 
planations of  church  ordinances  and  religious 
duties. 

I found  it  very  useful  in  my  own  teachings, 
and  it  has  also  been  used  by  others  in  Tung- 
chow,  and  in  other  places  where  Mandarin  is 
spoken. 

Before  we  had  made  an  addition  to  our  house 
of  several  rooms  for  the  use  of  the  school,  the 
pupils  learned  their  lessons  with  me  in  my  sit- 
ting-room. It  was  a great  relief  when  I had  a 
place  for  them  elsewhere.  Like  other  Chinese 
students,  they  studied  aloud,  and  the  confusion 
was  quite  too  much  for  me. 


416 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Mr.  Nevius  had  at  that  time  a class  nearly 
every  day  of  the  week,  either  in  the  Bible  or  in 
Theology,  besides  his  preparation  of  books,  and 
chapel  work,  and  also  his  own  study  of  “the 
character,”  to  which  he  devoted  every  leisure 
moment,  through  the  day  or  in  the  evening.  I 
think  it  was  nothing  but  his  habit  of  systematic 
and  regular  exercise  which  enabled  him  to  per- 
form such  an  amount  of  work  without  injury  to 
his  health.  Nearly  every  afternoon  he  spent 
about  two  hours  either  in  long  walks  in  the 
country,  or,  when  I could  accompany  him,  we 
took  pleasant  horseback  rides  over  the  hills,  or 
on  the  sea-beach ; which,  by  the  way,  is  the 
most  interesting  feature  of  Tung-chow.  At 
high  tide,  a ride  on  the  beach  is  impracticable, 
but  when  the  water  is  low  we  have  a wide  space 
nearly  as  hard  and  smooth  as  a floor.  Many  a 
gallop  have  we  had  there  close  to  the  water’s 
edge.  Our  horses  seemed  nearly  as  much  re- 
freshed and  animated  as  ourselves  by  the  fresh 
sea-breezes,  as  away  we  cantered  at  a gait  any- 
thing but  slow.  I was  sorry,  indeed,  when  in- 
creasing poor  health  obliged  me  to  relinquish 
this  almost  our  only  enjoyable  recreation. 

My  husband  with  much  trouble  had  procured 
for  me  a capital  horse.  Dinah,  as  I named  her, 


WORK  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CHOW.  417 


became  a great  favorite  with  all  the  foreign 
ladies.  She  was  a well-formed  animal,  very  fleet, 
and  kind  and  gentle  in  the  extreme.  She  had 
been  taught,  before  we  had  her,  to  ask  for  food 
by  raising  her  fore-foot  and  neighing,  until  it 
was  brought  her.  She  soon  learned  that  I could 
never  resist  her  entreaties ; and  no  sooner  did 
she  see  me  than  the  foot  would  be  raised,  and  a 
call  seemed  to  say,  “Please,  ma’am,  bring  me 
some  beans,  or  corn,  or  something  else  nice  to 
eat ! ” She  became  rather  tyrannical,  but  re- 
paid me  fully  by  pacing  so  fast  on  the  beach 
that  my  husband’s  more  clumsy  animal  would ^ 
have  to  gallop  at  full  speed  to  keep  up  with  us. 

Besides  the  visits  which  I have  already  de- 
scribed among  my  neighbors  and  other  poor  fam- 
ilies, while  we  were  living  in  Tung-chow,  I made 
a successful  effort  to  reach  a different  class  of 
individuals.  It  would  be  as  much  a transgres- 
sion of  the  rules  of  etiquette  which  prevail 
among  the  upper  classes  in  China  to  venture  to 
pay  a visit  without  a previous  invitation,  or,  at 
least,  without  having  first  announced  our  inten- 
tion, as  such  a course  would  be  in  this  country. 
Accordingly,  when  I wished  to  call  upon  the 
ladies  in  the  family  of  an  officer  or  wealthy  per- 
son, I first  sent  a servant  to  inquire  whether 
27 


413 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


such  a visit  would  be  acceptable.  Sometimes, 
when  I had  not  taken  that  precaution,  I had  my 
sedan  put  down  outside  a door,  while  the  same 
message  was  sent  in  to  the  ladies ; and,  upon  re- 
ceiving an  invitation  to  enter,  would  at  once  do 
so.  In  making  these  visits,  I always  went  in  a 
sedan,  accompanied  by  a servant.  To  have  gone 
to  such  places  on  foot,  or  unattended,  would  have 
been  regarded  by  the  persons  visited  as  treating 
them  with  disrespect,  and  would  have  weakened 
my  influence  with  them,  if  it  did  not  prevent 
my  seeing  them  at  all. 

I scarcely  need  say  that  I took  care,  in  all 
these  visits,  to  be  dressed  in  a suitable  manner. 

I found  the  ladies  in  the  officers’  families,  as 
also  in  those  of  the  more  wealthy  private  citizens, 
very  affable  and  well  disposed. 

I had  always  to  satisfy  their  curiosity  by  al- 
lowing them  to  examine  most  thoroughly  my 
dress,  my  hair,  bonnet,  gloves,  and  shoes  ; and  I 
in  turn  made  any  remarks  I pleased  upon  their 
costume.  I did  not  dislike  this,  as  it  was  a 
good  way  of  getting  acquainted,  and  took  off 
the  stiffness  of  a first  meeting.  We  always 
asked  each  other  names  and  ages,  and  many 
questions  about  our  families,  and,  these  over,  we 
slid  very  naturally  into  talking  about  the  object 


WORK  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CHOW.  419 


of  our  living  in  China,  the  evils  of  idolatry, 
and  our  earnest  desire  that  they  should  embrace 
the  religion  of  Jesus.  They  usually  assented 
to  what  I said,  and  sometimes  exhibited  a good 
deal  of  interest,  though  I do  not  know  of  any 
lasting  impressions  being  made.  Here,  as  in 
similar  efforts  among  the  poor,  we  could  only  do 
what  we  felt  was  duty,  leaving  the  result 
with  God.  Possibly  eternity  may  reveal  some 
good  effects,  of  which  we,  at  the  time,  were  not 
aware.  I never  felt  discouraged  in  that  partic- 
ular branch  of  my  work  ; on  the  contrary  there 
is  nothing  that  I look  forward  to  with  more 
pleasure,  on  my  return  to  China,  than  again  en- 
gaging in  it  wherever  we  may  happen  to  be  sta- 
tioned. 

The  houses  of  even  wealthy  Chinese  are  not 
at  all  pleasant,  according  to  our  Western  ideas. 
The  absence  of  carpets,  sofas,  easy-chairs,  and 
the  like,  gives  them  a very  cheerless,  comfortless 
aspect.  They  are  clean  as  compared  with  the 
houses  of  the  poor,  and  are  often  large  and 
well  built,  containing  plenty  of  furniture,  such 
as  it  is,  — tables,  hard  chairs,  tea-poys,  orna- 
mented scrolls  on  the  walls,  etc.,  but  very  little 
that  is  really  pretty  or  graceful.  In  Tung-chow 
the  rich,  as  well  as  the  poor,  sleep  on  the  hangs ; 


420 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


but  the  former  have  handsome  bedspreads,  or 
thickly  wadded  quilts,  and  plenty  of  nice  pil- 
lows, while  the  poor,  of  course,  have  nothing  of 
this  sort  but  what  is  absolutely  necessary. 

The  daily  employments  of  Chinese  ladies  of 
wealth  or  rank  are  very  different  from  those 
of  persons  in  their  stations  in  other  countries. 
No  delightful  drives,  fascinating  novels,  morn- 
ing visits,  or  engrossing  fancy  work  ; no  milli- 
ners nor  dress-makers,  nor  exciting  shopping  ex- 
peditions, steal  away  their  hours.  Fine  equi- 
pages and  drives  they  have  never  dreamed  of. 
They  manage  to  substitute  embroidery  in  some 
cases,  for  other  fancy-work,  and  as  for  books, 
never  having  known  the  pleasures  of  reading, 
they  do  not  feel  the  want  of  them.  And  if  they 
do  lose  something  by  not  having  books  to  read, 
they  also  gain  something  by  not  having  them 
to  write;  which  I realize  more  fully  than 
I did  before  I commenced  this  narrative  of  “ Our 
Life  in  China.”  As  I have  remarked  elsewhere, 
much  of  a Chinese  lady’s  time  is  taken  up  in 
making  her  toilet,  more  still  in  chit-chat,  and  in 
many  families  by  games  of  chance ; and  not  a 
little  time  and  thought  are  expended  in  the  selec- 
tion of  materials  for  dress,  articles  of  jewelry, 


WORK  AMONG  WOMEN  IN  TUNG-CIIOW.  421 


etc.,  which  are  sent  from  the  shops  to  the  house, 
for  their  inspection  before  purchasing. 

Elderly  women  often  clo  a good  deal  of  sewing 
and  attend  to  the  lighter  duties  of  house-keeping, 
which,  together  with  a general  oversight  of  all 
the  sons  and  daughters-in-law,  and  their  chil- 
dren, furnishes  them  with  enough  occupation  to 
prevent  them  suffering  from  ennui. 

The  mother  or  grandmother  of  a large  family 
in  China  feels  herself  a very  queen,  and  acts 
accordingly.  Even  her  liege  lord,  to  whom  she 
is  bound,  theoretically,  to  show  such  deference, 
seldom  cares  to  dispute  her  sway.  And  the 
luckless  daughters-in-law  are  subject  to  the 
double  tyranny  of  their  husband  and  his  mother. 
“Passive  obedience  and  unconditional  submis- 
sion ” must  be  their  rule  of  action  from  the  day 
of  their  marriage,  until,  in  turn,  having  arrived 
at  the  dignity  of  grandmothers  themselves,  and 
being  freed  from  further  restraint,  they  revenge 
themselves  for  all  they  may  have  suffered  in 
former  times,  by  severity  to  their  own  daughters- 
in-law.  But,  to  do  them  justice,  I must  say 
that  there  are  many  cases  of  sincerest  affection 
between  the  different  members  of  Chinese  fami- 
lies ; many  more  than  could  be  expected,  con- 
sidering the  way  in  which  their  marriages  are 


422 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


arranged.  I may  not  have  mentioned  that  be- 
trothals are  all  made  without  consulting  the 
parties  most  interested,  and  in  many  cases  while 
they  are  still  young  children.  A bride  and 
groom  have  very  seldom  even  a passing  glimpse 
of  each  other,  before  marriage. 


CHINESE  NEW-YEAR. 


423 


CHAPTER  XYI. 

TSING-WAN-TS. — VIEWS  OF  MISSIONARY  WORK. 

— ABSURD  RUMORS. 

The  Chinese  do  not  divide  their  year,  as  we 
do,  into  an  unvarying  number  of  months  and 
days.  It  is  composed  of  lunar  months,  which, 
in  order  to  keep  the  “ wheels  of  time  ” running 
smoothly,  obliges  them  to  insert  every  few  years 
an  additional  or  intercalary  month. 

The  new-year  holidays  are  observed  in  China 
more  generally  than  in  any  other  country  in  the 
world.  The  closing  days  of  the  old  year  are 
devoted  to  preparations  for  the  new.  Business 
affairs  are  settled,  debts  are  paid,  fine  clothes  are 
either  purchased  or  hired,  and  edibles  in  profu- 
sion are  prepared  for  the  entertainment  of  guests 
in  the  coming  season  of  merry-making. 

During  the  first  few  days  of  the  first  month 
the  male  members  of  the  family  go  abroad  to 
present  their  greetings  to  relatives  and  friends 


424 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


After  that  the  women,  at  least  the  elderly  mar- 
ried ones,  are  allowed  the  same  privilege. 

It  has  been  truly  said  that  “for  at  least  one 
day  of  the  year  every  Chinaman  is  a gentleman.” 
Even  the  coolie,  who  the  day  before  was  bearing 
burdens  in  the  street,  is  suddenly  transformed 
into  a well-dressed,  stately  personage,  who,  with 
a dignified  bearing,  and  sometimes  a really  grace- 
ful manner,  meets  his  friends  with  a profound 
salaam,  and  offers  them  the  congratulations  of  the 
season.  Nearly  every  person  whom  you  see  on 
the  street  is  dressed  in  silk,  satins,  or  furs,  and 
wears  a ceremonial  cap.  The  temples  are 
thronged  on  new-year’s  morning,  and  through 
the  day,  by  men  who  perhaps  scarcely  ever  visit 
them  except  at  that  time. 

In  the  year  of  our  Lord  1862  the  Chinese 
new  year  did  not  occur  until  the  middle  of  Feb- 
ruary. Mr.  Nevius  and  the  other  missionaries 
had  many  calls  from  gentlemen  ; and  I and  the 
other  ladies  from  women,  many  of  whom,  I pre- 
sume, had  been  hearing  of  us  since  we  first  went 
to  Tung-chow,  but  until  then  had  had  no  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  us.  The  first  who  called  no 
doubt  carried  back  favorable  accounts  of  their 
reception  to  their  female  acquaintances,  who  in 
turn  resolved  to  satisfy  their  curiosity  by  paying 


TSING-WAN-TS. 


425 


us  a visit  also.  Of  course  we  exerted  ourselves 
to  interest  and  amuse  them.  I made  it  a point 
never  to  allow  them  to  leave  without  hearing  a 
simple  exposition  of  Christianity,  making  sure 
that  they  really  understood  it.  Most  unfortunate- 
ly I was  at  that  time  very  unwell,  and  my  voice 
was  so  weak  that  it  pained  me  to  attempt  to  use 
it.  I was  really  ill ; and  perhaps  ought  not  to 
have  undertaken  any  work  whatever.  But  the 
necessity  was  so  pressing,  and  the  temptation  to 
do  was  so  strong,  that  I persevered,  even  at  the 
cost  of  permanent  injury  to  my  health.  My  good 
Futang  was  called  from  the  kitchen  at  all  hours 
to  assist  me  to  “ talk  the  doctrine  ” to  my  guests; 
and  my  Christian  woman  also  gave  me  much  as- 
sistance in  entertaining  and  conversing  with  them. 

They  often  came  in  parties  of  half  a dozen  or 
more,  gayly  dressed,  and  evidently  bent  upon 
seeing  and  being  seen.  They  would  stay  so 
long  that  before  they  left  I was  completely  tired 
out,  and  sometimes  ready  to  cry  from  mere  phys- 
ical exhaustion. 

The  most  of  these  visitors  having  come  from 
mere  curiosity,  when  that  motive  was  gone  did 
not  care  to  repeat  their  visits.  But  among  the 
many  whose  acquaintance  I then  made,  were  ten 
or  twelve  women  who  seemed  truly  interested  in 


426 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


■what  they  heard  of  the  religion  of  Jesus.  I 
succeeded  in  forming  them  into  a class  which 
came  regularly  to  me  for  instruction.  They 
improved  so  rapidly,  and  showed  such  interest  in 
Christianity,  that  I felt  very  hopeful  of  them,  and 
was  even  expecting  that  at  no  distant  time  they 
might  be  fit  subjects  for  admission  to  the  church. 

The  “ Prayer”  which  I had  at  first  prepared 
for  the  use  of  old  Mrs.  Cheo,  had  been  enlarged 
and  improved,  and  printed  as  a sheet  tract  in 
Chinese  style  on  blocks.  Nearly  all  the  women 
of  my  class  committed  it  to  memory,  and  seemed 
to  take  great  pleasure  in  making  it  their  own. 

It  might  be  a matter  of  surprise  to  some  that 
we  did  not  at  once  teach  these  inquirers  “ Our 
Lord’s  Prayer.”  That,  however,  requires  a much 
greater  degree  of  knowledge  and  faith  than  per- 
sons who  are  not  yet  fully  free  from  the  entangle- 
ments of  heathenism  are  capable  of.  It  does  not 
seem  right  to  place  those  holy  words  in  the  mouths 
of  such  as  can  neither  appreciate  nor  adopt  them. 
Later  in  their  religious  experience,  when  they 
have  learned  to  know  and  love  “ Our  Father  who 
is  in  heaven,”  they  enjoy,  no  less  than  ourselves, 
that  beautiful  and  perfect  formula  for  devotion. 

About  the  first  of  April,  Mr.  Nevius  and  I 
went  to  the  village  of  Tsing-wan-ts,  fifteen  miles 


TSING-WAN-TS. 


427 


distant,  the  home  of  old  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cheo,  to 
pay  them  a long-promised  visit.  In  a letter  to 
my  sister  I wrote  from  there  as  follows : ‘ ‘ We 
started  from  Tung-chow  yesterday  at  noon,  after 
a busy  morning  of  preparations.  I did  not  have 
a very  pleasant  ride  out.  The  roads  were  bad, 
and  the  mules  refractory  ; besides  I had  a very  se- 
vere headache.  By  some  misunderstanding  J , 

who  went  on  horseback,  and  my  mule  drivers 
took  different  roads,  so  that  I did  not  have  his 
company. 

“This  village  is  situated  in  a gorge  between  two 
hills,  and  the  principal  street  is  on  the  edge  of  a 
narrow  ravine.  It  is  so  out  of  the  way  that  we 
had  difficulty  in  finding  it.  When  within  a mile 

from  here  I met  J and  old  Mr.  Cheo  coming 

to  meet  me. 

“ The  rooms  we  occupy  are  on  the  street,  sep- 
arated by  a court  from  those  of  the  family. 
There  is  only  the  usual  earthen  floor,  and  the 
windows  are  lattice  covered  with  paper.  We 
have  no  fire,  but  manage  to  keep  warm  by  wear- 
ing more  clothes.  The  fatigue  of  yesterday  has 
made  me  quite  miserable  to-day.  Not  having 
slept  at  night,  I did  not  rise  at  my  usual  early 
hour.  After  a late  breakfast,  taking  Futang 
along  to  help  talk,  and  ciceroned  by  a very  old 


428 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


woman,  I went  out  to  make  calls.  There  is  but 
this  one  Christian  family  in  the  village,  and 
many  of  the  people  are  opposed  to  the  ! new  doc- 
trine.’ Mr.  Nevius  and  Mr.  Cheo  have  gone 
off  to  preach  and  distribute  books  in  the  neigh- 
boring villages.  Before  they  went  Mr.  Cheo 

told  J he  would  be  glad  if  I would  go  to  a 

certain  well-to-do  family,  the  head  of  which  is  a 
man  much  opposed  to  Christianity.  lie  said  that 
he  could  not  accompany  me  there  himself,  but 
my  old-woman  guide  would  escort  me.  We 
made  that  our  first  visit.  We  were  well  re- 
ceived, the  man  explaining,  very  graciously,  that 
this  old  woman  was  his  mother,  a younger  one 
his  wife ; this  was  sister-in-law  No.  1,  that  No. 
2,  and  so  on.  Of  course  I had  to  undergo  a 
pretty  thorough  inspection;  even  my  old  merino 
dress  was  to  them  an  object  of  interest.  I al- 
lowed Futang  to  do  most  of  the  “ preaching,”  as 
I felt  scarcely  able  to  sit  up,  and  not  at  all  equal 
to  the  effort  necessary  for  speaking  in  such  a place. 
In  order  to  make  these  people  hear  we  have  al- 
most to  shout.  They  have  such  a habit  of  raising 
their  voices  when  conversing  among  themselves, 
that  they  do  not  expect  to  understand  us  unless 
we  do  the  same.  After  several  other  visits  of  no 
particular  interest  we  returned  to  Mr.  Cheo’s. 


TSINGr-WAN-TS. 


429 


u April  6th.  — As  I was  about  taking  out  my 
portfolio  for  writing,  several  women  called  to  see 
the  stereoscope.  We  did  not  bring  ours  with  us 
when  we  first  came  out,  but  old  Mr.  Cheo  had 
told  his  neighbors  about  it,  and  they  seemed  so 

anxious  to  see  one  that  when  J went  into  town, 

a day  or  two  since,  he  brought  it  back  with  him. 
The  people  seem  to  admire  it  vastly,  though 
they  are  scarcely  able  to  appreciate  it.  As  I 
write,  twenty  or  more  men  and  boys  are  standing 
about  watching  me.  A woman  writing  a letter 
is  something  of  a curiosity  in  these  parts.  I can 
endure  being  gazed  at  as  well  as  most  persons, 
but  indeed  I do  not  like  it.  And  when  a crowd 
of  women,  with  scores  of  unwashed,  dirty-faced 
children,  every  one  of  whom  has  apparently 
dined  on  onions  or  garlics,  to  judge  by  their  ter- 
ribly offensive  breath,  comes  pressing  about  me, 
particularly  anxious  to  take  my  hand,  or  try  on 
my  gloves,  or  to  examine  my  hair,  and  I am 
morally  certain  that  when  they  have  gone  I 
shall  find  traces  of  them,  in  the  form  of  insects, 
too  disgusting  to  mention,  adhering  to  my  clothes, 
you  will  understand  how  it  is  that  it  sometimes 
requires  real  self-control  to  keep  from  rushing 
off  to  my  room  and  locking  myself  in.  Many 
of  the  children  are  in  a state  of  nature,  in  the 


480 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


one  sense,  at  least,  of  being  destitute  of  a single 
article  of  clothing.  There  are  other  disagree- 
able things  which  we  have  to  meet  in  our  inter- 
course with  them  which  I could  not  think  of 
mentioning  in  a letter.  When  you  remember, 

dear  M , that  I am  naturally  far  from  being 

insensible  to  these  peculiar  annoyances,  you  will 
realize  that  my  life  is  not  all  play ; and  I am 
sure  you  will  give  me  credit  for  some  fortitude. 
As  disagreeable  as  these  things  are,  I believe  I 
have  never  yet  quite  lost  my  patience,  nor  re- 
pulsed these  poor  people  when  they  have  shown  a 
disposition  to  be  friendly. 

i:  After  dinner  to-day,  while  I was  lying  down 
to  rest  upon  the  kang  in  a little  room  where  we 
sleep,  I heard  our  man  Shing-ping,  who,  though 
not  a Christian,  is  well  instructed  and  very 
hopeful,  talking  with  visitors  in  this  room.  He 
related  the  parable  of  the  ‘barren  fig-tree,’ 
and  applied  it  to  them  in  a very  practical  way, 
alluding  to  their  having  been  spared  during  the 
cholera  season,  while  so  many  were  cut  down  by 

it.  J had  yesterday  at  morning  worship,  read 

and  explained  that  parable,  and  I was  gbd  that 
Shing-ping  had  appreciated  it  so  well.  It  is 
beautiful  to  see  how  perfectly  the  parables  are 
adapted  to  the  wants  of  such  persons  as  these. 


VIEWS  OE  MISSIONARY  WORK.  431 


“We  have  had  a very  satisfactory  visit  at  Tsing- 
wan-ts,  and  hope  that  real  good  has  been  accom- 
plished. The  villagers,  either  at  their  own 
homes,  or  here  at  Cheo's  house,  have  very  gen- 
erally heard  the  gospel,  and  we  know  that  God’s 
word  cannot  return  to  him  void.  Before  Mr. 
Nevius  went  off  to  his  day’s  work,  we  read 
together,  ‘ In  the  morning  sow  thy  seed,  and  in 
the  evening  withhold  not  thine  hand;  for  thou 
knowest  not  whether  shall  prosper  either  this  or 
that,  or  whether  they  both  shall  be  alike  good,’  — 
a capital  verse  for  missionaries.  Sometimes  per- 
sons seem  so  very  unlikely  to  appreciate  the 
truth  that  we  are  tempted  to  refrain  from  speak- 
ing to  them,  when  perhaps  they,  who  are  appar- 
ently the  most  hopeless,  are  the  ‘ chosen  ones  ’ 
who  will  receive  it  ‘ into  good  and  honest 

hearts.’  I am,  dear  M , more  and  more 

thankful  that  our  lives  are  given  to  this  cause. 
So  far  from  the  ‘ romance  ’ having  worn  off,  as 
you  remember  so  many  of  our  friends  prophesied 
it  would,  this,  our  life-work,  becomes  every  year 
more  interesting  and  satisfying.  The  changes 
we  have  passed  through  of  late  have  made  us 
realize  more  than  ever  that  this  world  is  only  a 
‘pilgrimage,’  and  it  is  such  a comfort  to  know 
that  we  are  engaged  in  employments  which  will 


432 


OUR  LIFE  I FT  CHINA. 


tell  on  eternity.  You,  I am  sure,  will  believe 
me  sincere  when  I say  that  I would  not  ex- 
change our  life,  so  quiet,  so  obscure,  — more  than 
that,  so  unappreciated  by  some  whose  sympathy 
I should  value,  — for  any  position  offering  mere 
worldly  pleasures.  You  will  think  I have  lost 
all  ambition ; it  is  hardly  that,  but  my  ambition 
has,  I feel,  a better  object.  I never  was  more 
desirous  than  now  of  undertaking  and  perform- 
ing something  really  worth  the  effort.  That  ac- 
complished, I think  I should  be  quite  willing  to  ‘ lay 
me  down  to  sleep,  ’ even  here  in  this  wilderness,  — 

“ ‘ My  name  and  my  place  and  my  tomb  all  forgotten, 

The  brief  space  of  time  well  and  patiently  run; 

So  would  I pass  away,  peacefully,  silently, 

Only  remembered  by  what  I have  done.’ 

“ There  is  not  the  least  hardship  to  me  in  work. 
I enjoy  it  far  more  than  rest ; but  it  is  inexpres- 
sibly trying  to  see  so  many  opportunities  for 
usefulness  which  my  limited  strength  will  not  al- 
low me  to  take  advantage  of.  There  is  work  here, 
not  only  for  men,  but  for  women  as  well.  When  I 
think  how  many  ladies  there  are  in  America,  who, 
if  they  would,  might  come  and  help  us,  I feel  very 
sadly,  sometimes,  I fear,  almost  indignant.” 

Since  I have  been  at  home  in  the  United 
States,  I have  realized  more  fully  than  ever  be- 


VIEWS  OF  MISSIONARY  WORK.  433 


fore  that  there  are  many  ladies,  some  in  almost 
every  church,  who  could  well  be  spared  to  go 
where  they  are  so  much  more  needed.  I-  do  not 
mean  that  a person  suitable  to  engage  in  the 
missionary  work  would  not  be  “ missed  ” from 
her  circle  at  home.  On  the  contrary,  I 
hope  no  one  will  go  abroad,  professedly  to 
engage  in  that  service,  whose  absence  would  not 
be  felt  at  home.  But  when  a well-qualified 
person  breaks  away  from  the  duties  which  have 
hitherto  occupied  her  here,  from  a conscientious 
regard  for  her  own  personal  duty  to  the  heathen, 
or  rather,  in  obedience  to  the  Great  Head  of  the 
Church,  others  will  come  forward  to  take  her 
place,  stimulated  perhaps  to  greatly  increased 
activity  by  her  faithfulness  and  devotion.  Such 
ought  to  be  the  case,  and  I think  it  usually  is. 
How  a gifted  and  pious  young  lady  of  mature 
years,  who  has  not  home  duties  to  bind  her  here, 
can  settle  down  contentedly  to  a life  of  ease  or 
inactivity  without  ever  once  asking  herself  the 
question  whether  she  may  not  have  imperative 
duties  elsewhere,  I do  not  understand.  I can 
even  go  a step  further : I feel  sure  that  many 
ladies  as  well  as  gentlemen  who  are  most  useful 
here,  working  earnestly  from  day  to  day,  would 
be  still  more  useful  in  heathen  lands.  Here 


28 


434 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


they  are  lights  among  innumerable  other  lights 
perhaps  as  luminous  as  they ; there  they  are 
solitary  lights  in  a dark  place,  — how  dark  per- 
haps only  we  who  have  lived  enveloped  in  its 
gloom  can  realize. 

Some  Christians  in  this  country  seem  to  take 
pleasure,  almost,  in  the  idea  that  “there  are 
heathen  at  home;  no  need  to  go  to  China  to  find 
them.”  If  it  is  a fact  that  there  are  real 
heathen  in  our  midst,  it  is  a shame  and  disgrace 
to  our  churches.  But  there  are  no  heathens 
here,  in  the  proper  sense  of  that  term,  none  who 
might  not,  if  they  would,  become  acquainted 
with  Christianity.  Churches,  chapels,  mission 
and  Sunday  schools,  are  found  everywhere,  and 
all  who  will  may  “come  and  take  of  the  water 
of  life  freely.”  How  different  the  condition  of 
the  poor,  degraded  idol-worshippers  of  India  and 
China  ! I think  no  right-minded  person  would 
be  so  disingenuous  as  to  class  together  those 
whose  situations  are  so  opposite.  It  is  certainly 
paying  a poor  compliment  to  our  enlightened 
country  to  profess  to  believe  that,  religiously,  it 
is  not  much  superior  to  those  lands  where  dark- 
ness, superstition,  and  heathenism,  with  all  their 
attendant  miseries,  still  reign  unbroken.  That 
latent  dislike  (for  it  is  nothing  else)  to  the 


VIEWS  OF  MISSIONARY  WORK.  435 


foreign  missionary  cause,  which  exists  in  the 
hearts  of  many  professed  Christians,  is  a mys- 
tery which  I cannot  fathom.  I wonder,  indeed, 
if  it  is  possible  that  a true  disciple  of  Christ,  as 
he  listens  to  that  last  solemn  command,  “Go  ye 
into  all  the  world  and  preach  the  Gospel  to  every 
creature,”  can  respond  in  actions,  sometimes  al- 
most in  words,  “No,  Lord,  I will  not  go  myself, 
nor  will  I send  others  ; and  if  any  one  wishes  to 
go,  I will,  just  as  far  as  in  me  lies,  discourage 
and  dishearten  him  or  her ; and  if  they  who 
have  gone  profess  to  have  accomplished  thy  pur- 
poses, and  won  souls  to  thee,  I will,  whenever 
opportunity  offers,  speak  detractingly  of  their 
labors,  and  impugn  their  motives.” 

How  I wish  I might  be  mistaken  in  believing 
that  there  are  many  professed  Christians  who 
entertain  such  feelings ! 

But  we  know  that,  in  whatever  light  our 
efforts  may  be  regarded  by  individuals,  either 
in  the  church  or  out  of  it,  the  Saviour  himself 
loves  the  work,  and  sympathizes  with  those  who, 
from  love  to  him,  have  gone  to  engage  in  it.  So  also 
I think,  must  all  they  who  are  “one  with  Christ.” 

It  would  be  very  ungrateful  in  me  not  to 
acknowledge  most  heartily  the  many  tokens  of 
kindness  which  we  have  received  simply  as  mis- 


436 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


sionaries  from  those  whose  messengers  we  love 
to  consider  ourselves. 

I think  it  would  be  far  better  for  Christians  at 
home,  and  not  less  for  us  missionaries,  if  there 
were  some  way  of  bringing  us  nearer  together. 
So  little  is  known  of  missionaries,  or  their  em- 
ployments, that  it  is  not  strange  they  should 
sometimes  be  misunderstood.  We  would  like  to 
feel  that  we  are  watched , not  censoriously,  but 
sympathizingly  and  intelligently,  by  those  who 
really  care  whether  or  not  we  are  successful. 
Perhaps  some  of  us  need  just  such  an  incentive 
to  earnest  labor.  Missionaries,  I need  not  say, 
are  by  no  means  perfect  men  or  women,  and  it 
would  not  be  strange  if  they  should  sometimes 
sleep  when  they  ought  to  be  awake,  or  rest  when 
they  ought  to  work,  or,  as  is  more  often  the  case, 
work  when  they  ought  to  rest.  I do  not  think 
the  effect  would  be  bad  upon  them  if  they  knew 
that  many  kind  and  sympathizing,  but  keen  and 
watchful  eyes  were  bent  upon  them  to  see  that 
their  duties  are  done  and  well  done. 

I am  glad  to  feel  that  a juster  appreciation  of 
the  importance  of  the  work  of  foreign  missions 
is  gaining  ground  in  the  church.  The  romantic 
enthusiasm  which  was  felt  in  the  earliest  mis- 
sions has  long  since  been  dissipated,  but  as  its 


VIEWS  OF  MISSIONARY  WORK.  437 


real  claims  become  better  known,  I think  the 
lost  interest  will  be  revived,  and  perhaps  a 
more  healthy  sentiment,  and  more  lasting,  will 
be  substituted.  “ Why  ! the  early  missionaries 
used  to  live  in  bark  houses ; and  were  in  dan- 
ger of  losing  their  lives  ; and  had  great  difficulty 
in  getting  food  to  eat,”  I heard  a good  old 
Christian  say;  and  she  added  honestly,  “Mis- 
sionaries nowadays  do  not  have  such  sufferings 
to  encounter,  and  I no  longer  feel  the  same 
sympathy  for  them.”  Her  interest  of  old  had 
been  in  the  “sufferings  of  the  missionaries,” 
rather  than  in  the  success  of  the  cause  of  Christ 
among  the  heathen ; and  when,  as  she  supposed, 
there  was  no  further  need  of  sympathy  on  the 
ground  of  personal  suffering,  she  ceased  to  care 
for  the  missionaries  or  their  work  at  all.  Per- 
haps the  sooner  that  sort  of  fictitious  inter- 
est in  the  cause  of  missions  has  quite  disap- 
peared the  better. 

When  I had  read  the  above  to  a dear  young 
friend,  who,  by  the  way,  is  expecting  to  accom- 
pany me,  before  long,  to  our  missionary  home  in 
China,  she  remarked,  “Mrs.  Nevius,  I wish, 
if  you  could  just  as  well  as  not,  you  would  say 
something  to  ministers .”  “ Why  should  I 
say  anything  to  ministers?”  I asked.  “Oh! 


488 


OUB  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


if  they  would  not,  when  they  chance  to  meet  a 
young  lady  who  has  determined  to  become  a 
missionary,  put  on  a ‘ long  face  ’ and  draw  a 
deep  sigh,  and  remark  in  such  an  extremely 
solemn  tone,  ‘ It  is  a great  undertaking.’ 

“ ' Only  that  and  nothing  more.’ 

“It  was  so  delightful  to  be  met  as  good  Dr. 

• met  me  in  New  York.  I was  introduced 

to  him  as  ‘ under  appointment  as  a missionary.’ 
He  grasped  my  hand  most  warmly,  and  a whole 
volume  of  kindness  and  sympathy  was  in  his 
voice,  as  he  exclaimed,  ‘ May  the  Lord  bless 
and  keep  you ! The  Lord  will  go  before  you, 
and  the  Lord  of  Israel  will  be  your  rearward.’ 
Oh  ! it  was  so  comforting,  so  encouraging,  I felt 
ready  to  go  and  work,  if  need  be  to  suffer,  with 
such  sympathy  and  prayers  to  uphold  me  ! It 
was  so  different  from  the  usual  disheartening 
formula  with  which  ministers  almost  always 
meet  me  nowadays.  ‘ So  you  are  thinking  of 
being  a missionary , are  you  ? ’ ‘ Yes,  sir,  I 

am  expecting  to  go  to  China  ! ’ ‘ It  is  a great 

undertaking .’  ” 

But  Miss must  excuse  me  from  address- 

ing one  word  to  ministers  in  particular.  They 
certainly  cannot  be  wanting  in  sympathy  for 


VIEWS  OF  MISSIONARY  WORK.  439 


their  Master’s  own  cause,  or  for  their  co-laborers 
in  his  vineyard.  Since  they,  for  good  reasons.  I 
must  not  doubt,  have  not  been  impelled  to  go  them- 
selves to  the  dark  places  of  the  earth,  they  certainly 
would  not  intentionally  discourage  their  brothers 
or  sisters  who  have  been  able  to  obey  the  Mas- 
ter’s command,  “ Go  ye.”  Could  they  know 
how  much  we  value  their  words  of  cheer,  how 
much  they  might  help  us  by  their  counsels  or 
reproof,  I think  we  should  not  so  often  be  al- 
lowed to  doubt  their  sympathy,  or  to  guess  it 
only  from  inference. 

I trust  I may  be  pardoned  this  long  digression 
when  I promise  it  to  be  the  last  of  this  nature ; 
at  least,  I will  try  hereafter  to  confine  myself  to 
a simple  narration  of  the  events  of  our  remain- 
ing years  in  China. 

About  the  first  of  May,  1862,  my  two  school- 
girls, Tsing-hyiang  and  Hyiang-yuing,  together 
with  some  others,  were  received  by  baptism  into 
the  church.  Near  the  same  time,  Mr.  Hartwell 
had  also  the  pleasure  of  receiving  several  addi- 
tions to  his  church.  These  events,  so  favorable 
in  themselves,  were  the  occasion  of  a new  and 
most  unlooked-for  interruption  in  our  hitherto 
prosperous  operations.  The  natives,  seeing  so 
many  persons  coming  out  from  heathenism  and 


440 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


joining  this  foreign  religion,  were  startled  out 
of  their  usual  apathy.  They  could  not  under- 
stand it,  and  many  theories  were  suggested  to 
account  for  it.  At  last,  some  particularly  wise 
and  discerning  persons  explained  the  whole  affair 
in  a manner  satisfactory  to  all.  We  foreigners, 
they  said,  were  possessed  of  a secret  by  which 
we  could  gain  an  irresistible  power  over  persons 
who  allowed  themselves  to  come  under  our  in- 
fluence. Some  averred  it  was  the  “evil  eye;” 
others  that  it  was  witchcraft ; and  others,  again, 
knew  positively  that  it  was  by  a charm  or  potion, 
which  we  mixed  with  the  tea  which  we  gave  our 
guests  when  they  came  to  visit  us.  This  latter 
supposition  was  confirmed  by  the  fact  that  many 
who  had  been  known  to  be  unfriendly  to  us  be- 
fore they  came  to  see  us,  after  one  visit  would 
become  our  stanch  friends.  This  was  inexpli- 
cable except  on  the  supposition  of  some  such 
unholy  influence.  The  reports  spread  every- 
where, and  assumed  more  alarming  shapes.  Not 
content  with  carrying  on  our  iniquitous  practices 
on  a small  scale,  they  suspected  us  of  insinu- 
ating our  charms  into  the  flour  used  by  bakers 
in  the  city,  and  even  into  the  wells  in  private 
families.  The  business  of  the  bakers  suffered 
much  from  these  suspicions ; and  the  wells  on  a 


ABSURD  RUMORS. 


441 


certain  street  -which  we  had  frequented  were 
emptied  of  their  contents  and  searched.  We 
were  told  that  in  every  case  a small  red  hag 
with  a powder  of  some  sort  was  found  in  the 
bottom  of  the  well,  placed  there,  probably,  by 
the  well-cleaners  themselves,  to  whom  this  panic 
yielded  a rich  harvest. 

My  little  school  came  in  for  its  share  of  sus- 
picion and  dislike.  It  appeared  as  unlikely  to 
the  Tung-chow  people  that  we  should  he  willing 
to  spend  our  lives  in  efforts  to  benefit  others, 
without  some  bad  motive  at  the  bottom,  as  it 
does  to  some  people  at  home.  They  did  not 
suspect  us  of  “ going  abroad  to  see  the  world,” 
or  choosing  that  employment  because  it  offered 
attractions  for  ease  and  luxury.  On  the  contrary, 
teaching  and  supporting  a school  of  girls  seemed 
to  them  a very  dull,  tiresome  vocation ; and 
as  useless  as  dull.  At  last,  they  found  the  clue 
to  the  mystery.  We  were  getting  these  girls 
together  one  by  one,  in  a quiet,  unostentatious 
way,  and,  when  a large  number  had  been  col- 
lected, and  they  had  been  sufficiently  improved 
by  their  good  living,  a foreign  ship  was  coming 
along,  and  the  ill-starred  maidens  were  all  to  be 
sent  off  to  some  distant  land,  — not  to  be  made 
into  opium,  but  to  be  used  in  the  preparation  of 


442 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


that  mysterious  “ elixir  of  life,”  which  religion- 
ists of  the  Tau-ist  sect  believe  has  the  effect  to 
insure  perpetual  youth.  The  bodies  were  to  be 
boiled , and  from  them  would  be  expressed  a kind 
of  oil,  which,  when  eaten,  has  marvellous  effects. 
I could  never  get  from  the  natives  a very  clear 
idea  of  what  they  did  believe  on  this  subject.  I 
suppose,  in  fact,  their  own  ideas  were  as  confused 
as  mine.  But  they  were  really  frightened,  and, 
for  a time  it  was  impossible  to  get  any  more 
pupils.  Our  Chinese  friends  or  domestics  were 
both  amused  and  annoyed  by  these  reports  re- 
specting us.  They  were  also  ashamed  of  their 
own  countrymen.  When  going  to  and  fro  from 
my  school  I could  see  groups  of  men,  standing 
on  a mound  which  commanded  a view  of  our 
court,  watching  me  to  see  in  what  suspicious 
performances  I might  be  engaged.  A month  or 
two  after  the  visit  I have  already  described,  we 
went  again  to  spend  a few  days  at  old  Mr. 
Cheo’s.  We  found  that  the  villagers  of  Tsing- 
wan-ts  and  all  that  region,  who  before  had  shown 
themselves  very  friendly,  were  now  so  afraid  of 
us  as  not  to  he  willing  to  come  near  us.  As  the 
women  would  no  longer  visit  me,  I sent  my  ah-m 
out  to  see  them  as  they  sat  at  work  under  the 
trees.  They  were  so  sure  that  she  must  herself 


ABSURD  RUMORS. 


443 


be  my  accomplice,  and  as  such  might  be  carry- 
ing round  “ charms  ” for  their  destruction,  that 
they  insisted  upon  searching  her.  Her  hand- 
kerchief, which,  like  other  women,  she  carried 
folded  in  her  hand,  they  made  her  unroll  before 
them,  to  see  if  in  its  folds  some  of  the  mysterious 
medicine  might  not  be  secreted.  As  they  gained 
confidence,  they  crowded  about  her  with  many 
questions  and  rumors.  “ Why,”  said  they,  “a 
woman  named  ‘ Li,’  from  the  Hot  Springs  of 
Wen-shih-tang,  went  into  the  city  and  called  up- 
on a certain  foreign  lady  who  lives  there.  From 
that  time  she  has  never  returned  to  her  home, 
nor  been  heard  from.  There  is  no  doubt  but 
that  she  has  been  sent  off  to  the  ‘ outside  country,’ 
to  be  used  for  no  good  purpose.”  The  ah-m 
listened  patiently  until  they  had  finished,  when, 
straightening  herself  up  as  she  stood  before 
them  with  a manner,  no  doubt  dramatic,  she 
exclaimed,  “ I am  that  woman,  — I am  Mrs.  Li, 
from  Wen-shih-tang.  I have  been  shipped  to 
the  ‘outside  country,’  have  I?”  She  was  for 
a moment  thoroughly  vexed ; but  she  was  a kind 
creature,  and,  after  having  so  effectually  refuted 
one  of  their  silly  stories,  she  spent  a long  while 
conversing  with  them,  endeavoring  to  explain 
all  the  circumstances  which  had  led  them,  in 


444 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


common  with  others,  to  entertain  such  views  of 
the  foreign  teachers. 

On  our  way  home  to  Tung-chow  we  stopped 
at  another  village  to  visit  a very  respectable 
woman  who  had  been  to  see  me  at  our  house, 
and  who  had  seemed  somewhat  hopeful.  I had 
been  much  interested  in  her,  and  was  anxious  to 
keep  up  the  acquaintance.  My  sedan  was  set 
down  before  the  door  of  her  house,  and  Mr. 
Nevius  knocked  at  the  gate.  A person  opening 
it  saw  who  the  visitors  wrere,  and  slammed  to 
the  door  with  an  air  anything  but  hospitable. 
In  a moment  another  head  appeared,  and  we 
sent  in  our  request  for  my  acquaintance.  I am 
not  sure  whether  she  was  at  home  or  not ; but  a 
message  was  returned  to  us  that  she  had  been 
absent  all  day  worshipping  at  a temple  in  another 
village.  A crowd  of  people  collected  round, 
and  they  were  evidently  not  kindly  disposed ; but 
we  were  not  molested  by  them. 

The  next  day  it  was  reported  in  the  city  that  Mr. 
Nevius  and  myself  had  been  seen  in  the  streets 
of  the  above-mentioned  village,  searching  for 
children,  with  the  design  of  kidnapping  them, 
which  had  so  enraged  the  villagers  that  they 
drove  us  out  of  the  town;  and  that  they  had 
determined  to  come  at  once  to  Tung-chow,  drive 


ABSURD  RUMORS. 


445 


away  the  foreigners,  and  kill  the  native  con- 
verts. 

Our  situation  at  that  time  was  not  very  pleas- 
ant; but  we  were  not  much  alarmed  by  the 
threats  concerning  us. 

It  was  with  deep  regret  that  we  found  that 
many  of  those  who  had  before  appeared  so  .fa- 
vorably inclined,  from  this  time  stood  aloof 
from  us.  Not  one  of  my  class  of  women,  in 
whom  I had  become  so  interested,  ever  came 
near  me  again  as  an  inquirer.  I do  not  think 
it  possible  that  they  could  themselves  have 
believed  the  absurd  stories  told  of  us ; but, 
more  likely,  their  families  would  not  allow  them 
to  continue  their  visits.  The  fact  that  they  had 
been  on  the  point  of  identifying  themselves  with 
us,  seemed  to  others  “ confirmation  strong  ” of 
our  power  of  gaining  an  unlawful  influence  over 
the  natives. 

In  the  course  of  a few  weeks  this  excitement 
passed  away  ; the  absurdity  of  the  reports,  after 
men’s  minds  had  had  time  to  consider  them 
coolly,  most  effectually  worked  their  own  cure. 
Credulous  old  women,  who,  perhaps,  were  the 
first  to  originate  the  stoi’ies,  were  also  the  last 
to  disbelieve  them.  I presume  many  such  will 
vouch  for  their  truth  until  this  day. 


446 


OUR,  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

ILLNESS  AND  DEATH  OF  MR.  RANKIN. 

About  the  twentieth  of  May  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Rankin  and  their  children,  Abby  and  Sue,  with 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  McCartee,  reached  Tung-chow. 
Mrs.  Rankin,  on  her  return  from  the  United 
States  some  months  before,  her  own  health  much 
improved,  had  found  Mr.  Rankin  very  unwell. 
The  previous  year  had  been  a most  trying  one 
for  the  missionaries  at  Ningpo,  on  account  of 
disturbances  from  the  rebels. 

They  had  captured  the  city  and  held  posses- 
sion of  it  a short  time,  when  the  Imperialists, 
aided  by  the  English,  recovered  it.  The  rebels 
did  not  molest  foreigners,  but  the  natives  suffered 
much  from  them.  Our  missionaries  on  the  North 
Bank  had  arranged  with  the  native  Christians  in 
the  city,  that,  if  at  any  time  in  particular  danger, 
they  should  toll  the  bell  of  the  large  Fuzin 
church,  when,  if  possible,  they  would  go  to  their 
assistance.  One  day,  after  the  rebels  had  gained 


ILLNESS  AND  DEATH  OF  MR.  RANKIN.  447 


possession  of  the  city,  the  bell  began  tolling,  and 
at  once  Mr.  Rankin  and  Mr.  Morrison  attempted 
to  fulfill  their  promise  and  go  to  the  rescue. 
The  sentry  at  the  gates  allowed  them  to  enter, 
and  they  passed  hastily  on  to  the  church,  where 
they  found  all  in  confusion.  The  native 
preacher  and  perhaps  others  had  been  seized  and 
carried  off,  and  those  who  remained  were  natu- 
rally much  excited  and  alarmed.  The  gentlemen 
with  real  bravery  went  through  street  after  street, 
among  the  various  companies  of  soldiers,  until  they 
at  length  found  the  assistant,  and  secured  his  re- 
lease. I do  not  know  what  arrangements  were 
made  for  the  safety  of  the  converts ; but  I remem- 
ber that  the  missionaries  were  obliged  to  seek  fre- 
quent interviews  with  the  commanding  officers,  and 
that  there  were  alarms  and  excitements  without 
end.  It  was  no  wonder  that  the  foreign  teachers, 
with  such  a load  of  responsibility  and  anxiety  for 
others  as  well  as  themselves,  should  have  been 
worn  out  with  fatigue.  I think  they  all  suffered 
more  or  less ; and  Mr.  Rankin  was  never  really 
well  after  it.  His  fine  constitution  received  a 
shock  from  which  it  never  recovered.  A disease 
common  at  Ningpo  fixed  itself  upon  him  and  he 
failed  rapidly  ; not,  however,  being  obliged  to  give 


448 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


up  all  work  until  shortly  before  he  came  to  the 
North. 

He  was  urged  to  return  to  the  United  States ; 
and  had  he  done  so  at  an  early  stage  of  his  ill- 
ness he  might  perhaps  have  recovered  ; but  like 
many  others  he  waited  too  long.  He  knew  the 
feelings  with  which  some  people  in  this  country 
regard  the  return  of  a missionary  on  account  of 
ill-health,  and  preferred,  for  this  and  other  rea- 
sons, to  remain  in  China.  He  hoped  also  that  the 
climate  of  Shantung,  which  had  benefited  others, 
might  prove  favorable  to  him. 

Towards  evening  of  the  day  on  which  we  were 
expecting  our  friends,  Mr.  Nevius  mounted  his 
horse  and  rode  out  in  the  direction  of  Yentai  to 
meet  them.  He  returned  soon  after,  with  a mes- 
sage to  me  from  Dr.  McCartee  to  avoid  if  possi- 
ble exhibiting  surprise  at  Mr.  Rankin’s  altered 
appearance.  Had  it  not  been  for  this  I think  I 
must  have  lost  my  self-control ; for  I was  very 
weak,  and  when,  a few  moments  later,  the  party 
arrived,  I was  greatly  shocked.  Could  it  be  that 
that  pale  and  wasted  form  was  our  dear  old  friend 
Mr.  Rankin?  He  was  exhausted  from  the  jour- 
ney, and  so  weak  and  tottering  that  he  could  not 
walk  even  from  the  mule-litter  to  the  house, 
without  a strong  arm  around  him  for  support. 


ILLNESS  AND  DEATH  OP  MR.  RANKIN.  449 


Disease  had  made  sad  inroads ; but  his  mind  was 
as  clear  and  his  heart  as  warm  and  affectionate 
and  grateful  as  ever. 

I had,  in  my  house-keeper’s  pride,  or  rather  in 
my  natural  desire  to  please  those  who  had  done 
so  much  for  us,  exerted  myself  to  make  the  old 
temple  seem  pleasing  and  attractive.  The  win- 
dows were  all  open,  and  I “ studied  effect”  in 
the  arrangement  of  every  article  of  furniture, 
even  to  a footstool.  It  was  just  at  twilight  of 
a lovely,  mild  day,  and  I am  sure  the  Kwan-yin 
tang  never  looked  more  pleasantly.  Mr.  Rankin 
was  delighted  ; and  I think  he  never  changed  his 
opinion  of  the  place.  Their  rooms,  which  were 
those  Mr.  Danforth  had  before  occupied,  were 
comfortable  and  cheerful.  The  McCartees  had 
the  ones  opposite.  Dr.  McCartee’s  discerning 
eye  had  seen  at  once  the  true  character  of  Mr. 
Rankin’s  disease,  and  he  had  scarcely  any  ex- 
pectation of  his  recovery.  Indeed,  it  was  evi- 
dent to  all  that  his  restoration  would  be  almost  a 
miracle.  Notwithstanding  this  we  could  but 
hope  that  the  change  might  prove  beneficial, 
and  I trust  that  it  was  so  in  some  respects,  al- 
though it  did  not  arrest  the  progress  of  disease, 
then  so  firmly  seated.  He  became  weaker  and 
weaker,  and  our  hopes  grew  fainter.  Though 

29 


450 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


perfectly  aware  of  his  danger,  and  fully  resigned 
to  God’s  will  should  he  remove  him  speedily  from 
earth,  he  never  relinquished  his  hope  of  recovery. 
Life  was  very  dear  to  him.  He  wished  to  live 
that  he  might  accomplish  much  in  his  Master's 
service.  I never  knew  an  illness  of  so  danger- 
ous a character  as  free  from  intense  suffering 
either  in  body  or  mind;  or,  if  he  suffered,  he 
was  so  patient  and  uncomplaining  that  we  were 
seldom  aware  of  it.  I love  to  think  of  those  few 
weeks  in  our  last  summer  at  Tung-chow.  I was 
most  of  the  time  too  unwell  myself  to  go  from 
home ; and  when  for  an  hour  at  evening  the  other 
members  of  the  family  were  all  absent,  either 
walking  or  riding,  I would  sit  with  our  dear  in- 
valid. Many  pleasant,  quiet  chats  we  thus  en- 
joyed. In  reviewing  his  missionary  life  he  was, 
as  I thought,  sometimes  a little  desponding,  and 
I tried  to  cheer  him  by  calling  to  mind  his  inces- 
sant activity.  On  one  such  occasion  I remember 
his  replying,  “ Ah,  yes,  I have  been  busy,  very 
busy  ; indeed  I fear  that  I have  been  rather  a 
busy,  than  a faithful  laborer.”  He  loved  to  talk 
of  his  beautiful  home  in  America ; of  his  brothers 
and  sisters,  and  of  his  aged  father  and  mother,  — - 
that  mother  who,  as  she  bade  him  farewell  when 
he  was  leaving  home  for  the  last  time,  had  added 


ILLNESS  AND  DEATII  OF  MR.  RANKIN.  451 


the  words  which  only  a noble  Christian  would 
have  been  capable  of : “ Henry,  be  faithful  unto 
death ! ” 

On  the  morning  of  the  first  of  July  my  hus- 
band, as  usual,  went  early  to  Mr.  Rankin's  room. 
The  sun  had  scarcely  risen,  and  the  fresh  breeze 
from  the  ocean  was  peculiarly  delightful. 
Though  he  could  not  go  abroad  to  enjoy  it  him- 
self, he  desired  that  others  might  do  so,  and  re- 
quested Mr.  Nevius  to  take  Mrs.  Rankin  out  for 
a short  morning  ride  on  my  good  Dinah.  He 
exhibited  much  anxiety  lest  his  wife’s  unremit- 
ting attention  to  him  should  injure  her  own 
health,  and  not  unfrequently  would  insist  upon 
her  leaving  him  for  rest  or  recreation.  Her 
judgment  was  naturally  influenced  by  her  wishes, 
and  she  ever  looked  on  the  bright  side,  never  re- 
linquishing hope  of  her  husband's  recovery.  I 
was  rejoiced  that  it  was  so,  and,  indeed,  I sympa- 
thized in  the  feeling.  Had  we  fully  realized 
how  soon  one  whose  presence  we  so  valued  would 
be  taken  from  us,  we  could  not  have  felt  cheer- 
ful and  light-hearted,  even  though  we  knew  that 
for  him  death  had  no  terrors. 

But  at  length  the  certainty  forced  itself  upon 
us  that  the  event  we  feared  was  close  at  hand. 

Instead  of  indulging  further  in  personal  rem- 


452 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


iniscences  I shall  quote  from  a small  memorial 
volume  a notice  of  Mr.  Rankin’s  death,  together 
■with  some  remarks  respecting  him  which,  how- 
ever, to  those  who  knew  him  well,  do  not  seem  to 
give  a full  idea  of  his  many  excellences. 

“ On  the  morning  of  July  2,  18G3,  he  was 
lying  feebly,  but  tranquilly  speaking  to  the  dear 
friends  about  him.  His  last  message  had  been 
sent  to  his  eldest  child,  a son  at  school  in  the 
United  States  ; a note  full  of  filial  and  brotherly 
affection  had  been  sent  to  one  of  his  sisters  at 
home.  His  farewell  words  were  spoken  calmly 
to  the  beloved  wife  and  two  little  daughters,  who 
were  with  him  in  his  chamber  of  sickness.  With 
the  exception  of  a brief  period  of  aberration,  his 
intellect  was  clear  to  the  last.  To  his  dear 
friends,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  McCartee,  and  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Nevius,  and  to  a native  Christian,  who  were 
attending  him,  he  expressed  his  abiding  interest 
in  their  common  work  and  his  unfaltering  trust 
in  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ.  As  the  sun  reached 
its  meridian  his  blessed  spirit  ascended  to  behold 
the  Sun  of  Righteousness.  The  legacy  of  Jesus 
was  received  by  him  in  all  its  fulness,  — peace 
here,  glory  beyond.  After  nearly  thirty-eight 
years  of  life  upon  earth,  more  than  half  of  which 
were  full  of  usefulness,  he  fell  asleep.  Within 


ILLNESS  AND  DEATH  OF  ME.  RANKIN.  453 


the  soil  of  that  empire,  for  whose  people  he  had 
given  his  strength  that  he  might  win  some  of 
them  to  Christ,  his  body  rests. 

‘ 1 The  voyager  in  the  northern  Chinese  seas,  as 
he  approaches  the  province  of  Shantung,  may  see 
upon  the  hill  that  overlooks  the  city  of  Tung- 
chow  among  other  stones  there  set  up,  one  of 
pure  white  marble.  Beneath  it  is  all  that  was 
mortal  of  Henry  V.  Rankin. 

“There,  by  loving  friends,  who  mourned  not  as 
those  without  hope,  was  his  body  laid  to  await 
the  day  of  resurrection.  But  this  marble  monu- 
ment is  not  his  best  or  most  lasting  memorial. 

“ He  is  remembered  by  many  in  his  native  land 
as  an  unwavering  friend,  a Christian  scholar,  a de- 
voted follower  of  Jesus,  and  an  eloquent  preacher 
of  the  gospel.  His  frank  and  generous  spirit 
and  his  guileless  life  have  left  their  fragrance  in 
many  homes,  and  his  works  have  followed  him  to 
the  mansion  of  his  Father’s  house  above. 

“ In  the  schools  and  chapels  of  Ningpo,  — the 
place  of  his  missionary  labors,  — his  memorial 
abides  in  souls  once  benighted  by  heathenism, 
now  rejoicing  in  the  light  of  gospel  truth.  His 
sermons  are  still  speaking  their  instructive  doc- 
trine. His  pure  and  prayerful  life  still  abides 
an  eloquent  example. 


454 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


“ From  select  portions  of  God’s  Holy  Book, 
which  he  translated  and  published,  the  words  of 
life  shall  long  enter  into  heathen  dwellings.  The 
sweet  hymns  composed  by  him  shall  long  continue 
to  ascend  from  lips  that  have  learned  to  sing  in 
the  language  of  China  the  praises  of  Immanuel. 

“ These  are  his  best  memorials,  and  they  can 
never  be  forgotten.  Before  the  throne  of  God 
some  are  now  standing,  and  others  shall  be 
gathered,  who  have  been  instructed  by  our  de- 
parted brother  in  the  way  of  salvation.  As  they 
cast  their  crowns  before  the  Lamb,  they  will  ever 
praise  him  through  whose  grace  this  faithful 
teacher  was  sent  to  tell  them  the  glad  tidings  of 
the  love  of  that  Saviour  whose  cross  he  so  ear- 
nestly preached.” 


OUR  LAST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  455 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

OUR  LAST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW. 

It  is  very  distasteful  to  me  to  make  suck 
frequent  allusions  to  myself,  my  work,  or  my 
health ; but  in  a truthful  narrative  of  our  life 
in  China  this  could  not  be  avoided. 

In  a letter  to  a dear  sympathizing  sister, 
dated  the  fifteenth  of  August,  1863,  I wrote,  as 
follows  : “ Dinner  is  over.  Mr.  Nevius  is  in  his 
study  commencing  his  afternoon’s  work,  which, 
at  present,  is  preparing  a Commentary  on  Acts. 
Mrs.  Rankin  is  in  her  room,  and  her  children 
are  at  play,  while  I am  chatting  with  my  far- 
off  sister.  Were  we  together  I should  most 
naturally  tell  you  in  the  first  place  about  my 
health,  which,  however,  is,  by  this  time,  such 
a worn-out  subject  that  I fear  you  are  tired  of 
hearing  it  mentioned ; still  I trust  to  your  for- 
bearance. I have  been  very  poorly  all  summer; 
in  fact,  much  of  the  time  ill  enough  to  be  in  bed. 
I do  not  suppose  I have  been  able  to  speak  aloud, 


456 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


on  a average,  one  week  out  of  four  during  the 
last  three  or  four  months.”  [Here  follows  an 
enumeration  of  various  ailments,  which,  though 
possibly  interesting  in  a sense  to  a near  relative, 

I am  sure  would  not  be  so  to  others].  “ J 

is  sure  that  one  reason  why  I don’t  get  stronger 
is  that  I undertake  more  than  my  strength 
is  equal  to  ; ‘ making  an  effort  to  appear  well 
when  I am  ill,’  etc.  But  I think  that  I could 
scarcely  live  in  such  a place  as  Tung-chow 
without  I felt  a true  interest  in  our  work,  and 
made  some  effort  to  help  it  along.  Perhaps  I 
ought  to  identify  myself  so  completely  with  my 
husband  as  to  be  satisfied  with  his  work  with- 
out attempting  any  other  myself.  But  that  is 
a point  of  perfection  to  which  I have  not  yet 
attained. 

u The  McCartees  returned  to  their  home 
week  before  last.  I received  a note  from  Mrs. 
McCartee  to-day,  in  which  she  says : ‘ I am 
much  concerned  that  you  are  getting  to  feel  old. 
Don’t  stay  at  home  any  longer  and  entertain 
u all  the  world.”  Suppose  you  come  down  here. 
. . . . I think  Mr.  Nevius  must  not  wait  until 
he  has  finished  this,  that,  and  the  other.  I have 
noticed  that  so  many  people  here  have  died 
when  their  translation,  or  publication,  or  die- 


OUR  LAST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  457 


tionary,  or  house,  was  just  completed,  that  I am 
half  superstitious.’ 

“ Dr.  McCartee  also  advises  us  very  strongly 

to  go  away  somewhere  for  a change.  J 

sometimes  of  late  speaks  of  our  return  to  the 
United  States  within  a year  or  two  as  quite 
possible.  I cannot  endure  the  thought  of  taking 
him  away  from  his  work.  Rather  than  that  1 
should  prefer  to  stay  here,  even  if  I do  not 
recover. 

“At  the  end  of  two,  or,  at  the  most,  three 
years  I think  I should  be  more  than  willing  to 
leave  China  for  a long  visit  home ; for,  by  that 

time,  J will  have  completed  his  Theology, 

and  other  work  which  he  has  planned,  and  will 
himself  need  a long  rest.  But  do  not  think  from 
this  that  we  are  likely  to  come  home  very  soon. 
It  is  much  more  probable  that  we  shall  take 
a trip  somewhere  down  the  coast.  The  captain 
of  a sailing  vessel,  now  at  Yentai,  has  offered  us 
a free  passage  to  Amoy.  He  will  sail  about  two 
months  hence,  and  it  is  possible  that  we  may 
accept  his  kind  offer.  If  I were  well  I should 
enjoy  such  a visit  very  much ; but  as  I now  am, 
especially  with  my  voice  so  weak  and  uncertain, 
I dread  going  among  strangers.” 

On  the  twentieth  of  the  same  month,  I made 


458 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


an  entry  in  a letter  to  my  parents,  of  a very 
different  character,  as  follows:  “We  have  had 
a great  freshet.  It  rained  all  day  yesterday. 
At  sunset  there  seemed  some  signs  of  clearing, 
but  in  the  evening  it  began  again  to  pour.  Our 
rooms  leaked  badly,  and  at  ten  o’clock  Mr. 
Nevius  was  hard  at  work  moving  boxes  and 
furniture  to  prevent  their  getting  wet. 

“ Between  eleven  and  twelve  we  heard  a 
great  uproar  in  the  school-girls’  room,  and,  start- 
ing out  to  learn  the  cause,  found  even  the  inner 
court  flooded  with  water,  which  already  covered 
the  lower  steps  of  our  veranda,  and  was  several 
inches  deep  on  the  one  in  front  of  Mrs.  Rankin’s 
room,  which  is  considerably  lower  than  ours. 

“ The  women  and  school-girls  came  rushing 
into  our  part  of  the  temple  to  find  a safe  retreat, 
the  water  in  their  rooms  being  already  over 
their  beds,  or  kangs.  Some  waded,  and  some 
were  carried  by  the  men,  and  all  were  in  a great 
state  of  excitement.  Mrs.  Chang,  the  teacher’s 
wife,  seemed  to  blame  her  husband,  though  for 
what  it  was  hard  to  tell  ; 1 Chang  sin-sang 

kept  saying,  “Lie  still;  go  to  sleep;  don’t  be 
afraid;  there  is  no  danger;  ” but  I knew  better , 
and  I told  him  so,’  she  exclaimed,  in  a most 
injured  tone. 


OUR  LAST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  459 


“Little  Hyiang-yuing  was  in  dismay  when 
she  remembered  that  her  pet.  a tame  ground- 
mouse,  had  been  left  behind  to  the  imminent 
peril  of  its  life.  So  her  father,  very  kindly, 
went  back  to  her  sleeping  apartment,  and  res- 
cued it. 

“ The  water  continuing  to  rise,  Mr.  Nevius 
and  one  of  the  men  waded  over  to  Mrs.  Rankin’s 
room  to  prevent  damage  there.  Before  they  had 
things  properly  arranged,  in  came  the  water, 
oozing  up  through  the  floor,  and  pouring  over 
the  door-sill.  At  the  same  moment  it  entered 
the  dining-room.  When  Mr.  Nevius  crossed  over 
there  to  lift  to  a safe  elevation  some  trunks  and 
boxes,  which,  for  want  of  a store-room,  I was 
obliged  to  keep  there,  he  heard  a voice  calling, 
Nee  sin-sang  ! Nee  sin-sang!  from  the  garden 
without.  It  proved  to  be  a neighbor,  who,  with 
her  little  son,  had  made  her  way  through  the 
fields  behind  our  house  in  order  to  reach  the 
Kwan-yin  tang.  As  the  water,  in  the  outer 
court  and  passages,  was  then  too  deep  to  allow 
her  to  come  through  in  that  way,  Mr.  Nevius 
drew  her  up  through  a window  seven  or  eight 
feet  from  the  ground. 

“There  is  a stream  in  front  of  our  house 
which  is  often  quite  dry,  but  in  heavy  rains  it 


460 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


rises  verj  suddenly.  Last  night  it  was  a rush- 
ing torrent.  Mr.  Nevius  was  anxious  to  get  out 
to  look  after  an  old  woman  who  lives  in  one  of 
the  neighboring  houses,  and  also  to  see  if  he 
could  not  render  assistance  to  others  who  might 
be  in  danger ; but  he  was  met  by  so  swift  a 
current  as  nearly  to  carry  him  off,  and  was 
glad  enough  to  find  himself  safely  back  in  our 
own  enclosure. 

“ The  water  was  at  its  greatest  height  at  mid- 
night. By  that  time  the  roof  of  the  Kwan- 
yin  tang  was  leaking  in  every  room,  particu- 
larly in  the  main  building,  where  are  our  parlor 
and  bedroom.  Nearly  half  the  ceiling  has 
fallen  off,  or  is  still  hanging  in  tattered  shreds. 
The  water  abated  as  rapidly  as  it  rose,  and,  in 
a few  houi’s,  the  courts  were  empty.  As  the 
flood  subsided,  it  left  a residuum  very  hard  to 
remove,  both  in  the  house  and  in  the  courts. 
Every  matting  has  been  taken  up.  The  floor, 
in  the  girls’  school-room,  and,  also  in  the  chapel 
caved  in,  and  two  partition-walls  and  several 
doors  had  to  be  pulled  down,  as  they  were  on 
the  point  of  falling.  Part  of  the  stable-wall  fell 
during  the  night  almost  upon  the  horses.  Such 
a wet  house  as  ours  is  to-day  I am  sure  you 
never  saw.  Two  of  Mrs.  Rankin’s  boxes, 


OUR  LAST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOAV.  461 


which  stood  in  the  veranda,  she  did  not  remem- 
ber until  the  water  had  reached  them,  and  many 
articles  which  they  contained  are  badly  soaked 
and  injured.  Several  boxes  of  mine  will  also 
retain'  some  disagreeable  traces  of  this  little 
deluge.” 

The  day  after  the  one  on  which  the  above  was 
written,  Mrs.  Rankin  and  I had  a most  provi- 
dential escape.  We  were  returning  from  the 
garden,  and  had  just  come  through  a narrow 
passage-way,  when  a high  Avail,  which  formed  one 
side  of  it,  fell,  in  a heavy  mass,  which  must 
certainly  have  crushed  us  had  we  been  be- 
neath it. 

Much  damage  was  done  in  certain  parts  of 
the  city  by  the  flood.  It  caused  great  distress 
among  the  poor,  and  several  lives  were  lost.  A 
water-gate,  where  the  stream  passed  under  the 
city  wall,  had,  very  carelessly,  been  left  closed, 
and  thus,  when  the  water  rose,  not  finding  its 
usual  egress,  it  spread  abroad  over  that  region 
of  the  city  near  its  hanks. 

The  walls  of  our  house  were  so  thoroughly  soaked 
that  it  was  months  before  they  were  perfectly  dry. 
This,  in  a damp  climate  like  Ningpo,  would  have 
rendered  the  place  very  unhealthy ; but  I do  not 
know  that  it  had  that  effect  in  Tung-chow. 


462 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


About  the  first  of  September  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Moule,  of  the  English  Church  mission  at  Ning- 
po,  paid  us  a short  but  pleasant  visit.  When  ho 
left,  Mrs.  Rankin  accompanied  him  back  to 
Yentai,  where  she  remained  with  her  sister^  Mrs. 
McCartee,  for  several  months.  I felt  her  absence 
very  much.  The  scenes  of  joy  and  sorrow 
which  we  had  passed  through  together  had  drawn 
us  very  near  each  other. 

There  was  an  incident,  connected  with  the  lat- 
ter part  of  our  stay  in  Tung-chow,  which  I have 
failed  to  mention  in  its  order  of  time.  Indeed,  I 
cannot  remember  just  when  it  occurred,  but  think 
it  was  in  the  autumn  of  1862.  The  main  build- 
ing of  the  Kwan-yin  tang,  as  I have  before  men- 
tioned, contained  several  large  idols,  standing  on 
a raised  platform  in  the  middle  of  the  back  part 
of  the  room.  Owing  to  the  prejudices  of  the 
people,  and  the  danger  of  making  a disturbance 
in  the  city,  it  was  not  thought  advisable,  when 
we  first  engaged  the  house,  even  to  suggest  their 
removal ; but,  as  we  could  not  endure  to  have 
them  constantly  in  sight,  they  were  walled  in 
with  brick  and  mortar.  A stranger  would  not 
have  guessed  their  presence,  and  we  would 
seldom  have  thought  of  them  except  that  we 
needed  the  space  they  occupied,  for  the  house  was 


OUR  LAST  SUMMER  AT  TUXG-CHaW.  463 


small,  and  had  no  closets  nor  clothes-presses.  At 
length,  after  two  years  had  passed,  we  concluded 
that  we  might  anticipate  the  time  somewhat  when 
the  “idols  shall  be  abolished,”  by  removing 
ours  and  consigning  them  to  some  place  where 
they  would  be  less  in  our  way.  The  priest,  who 
owned  the  temple,  at  first  was  averse  to  the 
change,  but  when  reminded  that,  by  the  terms  of 
the  lease,  the  Kwan-yin  tang  would  probably 
never  revert  to  its  original  purposes,  and  conse- 
quently the  images  would  be  of  no  further  use, 
he  withdrew  his  objections  so  far  as  to  say  that 
Mr.  Nevius  might  do  as  he  pleased ; he  would 
take  no  responsibility  in  the  matter.  Not  know- 
ing what  effect  this  step  might  produce  upon  the 
people,  we  proceeded  cautiously,  but  at  length 
determined  that  there  was  no  good  reason  why 
we  should  not  at  once  undertake  it.  A company 
of  masons  were  employed  in  another  part  of  the 
establishment,  and  Mr.  Nevius  called  them  in 
and  requested  them  to  commence  the  work  of  re- 
moving the  goddess  and  her  attendants,  the  outer 
doors  having  been  carefully  closed  to  prevent  the 
entrance  of  intruders.  It  struck  the  masons  as 
sacrilegious,  and  several  were  afraid  and  unwill- 
ing to  attempt  it.  The  overseer,  a respectable 
elderly  man,  in  particular  appeared  much  discon- 


464 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


certed.  He  shook  his  head  disapprovingly,  and 
•was  evidently  annoyed ; while  his  son,  a youth 
of  about  nineteen,  seemed  to  have  so  little  fear 
or  respect  for  the  gods,  or  the  customs  of  his  peo- 
ple, as  to  consider  the  undertaking  very  good 
fun,  and  he  at  once  commenced  breaking  down 
the  outside  wall  in  front  of  the  shrine.  Seeing 
there  was  no  help  for  them,  the  others  all  joined, 
and  in  a few  moments  the  three  figures,  brilliant 
in  gilt  and  paint,  appeared  in  view.  Then  came 
the  more  difficult  task  of  taking  down  the  images. 
They  were  found  to  be  very  solid,  the  frame  of 
wood  imbedded  in  the  pedestal,  so  that  they  could 
not  be  removed  without  somewhat  injuring  them. 
The  middle  one,  a huge  male  figure,  weighing, 
perhaps,  six  or  eight  hundred  pounds,  was  at 
length  dislodged,  and  slid  down  an  inclined  plane 
formed  by  a plank  resting  one  end  on  the  plat- 
form and  the  other  in  the  window  of  the  inner 
court.  The  other  two  figures  were  females,  and 
somewhat  smaller.  One  had  a baby  in  her 
' arms.  As  one  after  another  they  were  slid 
down  the  plank,  a finger  or  a hand  would  break 
loose  and  fall  off,  which  struck  the  young  mason 
in  a comical  light,  and  he  was  unsparing  in  his 
sarcastic  remarks  about  the  power  of  the  gods, 
who  allowed  themselves  to  be  thus  uncere- 


OUR  LAST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  465 


moniously  dethroned.  Mr.  Nevius  had  prom- 
ised to  injure  the  idols  as  little  as  possible,  and 
to  store  them  in  a small  loft  over  one  of  the 
rooms.  The  two  female  figures  were,  with  much 
difficulty,  elevated  to  their  place  of  storage,  but 
the  other  was  so  heavy  that,  by  common  consent, 
it  was  decided  that  it  would  be  dangerous  to  at- 
tempt to  raise  it ; besides,  it  was  so  large  that  it 
could  scarcely  be  passed  through  the  trap-door, 
even  if  the  timbers  should  prove  strong  enough 
to  support  it.  It  was  already  nearly  dark  ; some- 
thing must  be  done  with  the  unwieldy  creature ; 
so  we  decided  that  we  could  not  do  better  than 
to  bury  him  in  the  court.  A large  hole  was  dug, 
a matting  wound  round  him,  and  he  was  low- 
ered to  his  ignominious  grave,  — 

Not  a gun  was  heard,  nor  a funeral  note. 

As  Kwan-yin  from  his  platform  we  hurried; 

Not  a soldier  discharged  his  farewell  shot 
O’er  the  hole  where  this  image  was  buried. 

Slowly,  not  sadly,  we  laid  him  down, 

This  hero  of  many  a story; 

We  carved  not  a line,  we  raised  not  a stone, 

But  left  him  alone  in  his  glory. 

No  useless  coffin  enclosed  his  breast, 

Nor  in  sheet  nor  in  shroud  we  bound  him; 

But  he  lay  like  a warrior,  taking  his  rest, 

With  an  old  mat  wrapped  around  him. 

30 


466 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


“ What  a powerful  god!  ” the  young  mason  said, 
But  none  whispered  a word  of  sorrow; 

Though  some  viewed  the  deed  with  no  little  dread, 
And  we  anxiously  thought  of  the  morrow. 


But  there  was,  we  were  glad  to  find,  no  special 
cause  for  anxiety,  as  the  affair  created  no  excite- 
ment whatever. 

During  the  month  of  September,  I was  not  a 
little  tried  by  two  persons  in  whom  I was  deeply 
interested.  My  oldest  pupil,  Tsing-hyiang,  ex- 
hibited a very  untractable  disposition,  and  gave 
me  much  anxiety,  lest  our  hopes  of  her  being  a 
truly  converted  person  might  prove  unfound- 
ed. My  former  ah-m  — Tsu  sao-sao  — also 
evinced  an  unlovely  and,  I feared,  unchristian 
spirit,  toward  a woman  named  Li  sao-sao,  whom 
I had  taken  into  my  employ  as  a servant.  I 
think,  on  looking  back  to  that  time,  that  with 
reference  to  both  these  persons  I did  not  suffi- 
ciently bear  in  mind  the  fact  that  sanctification 
in  many  true  believers  is  indeed  only  com- 
menced, while  the  most  unlovely  traits  of  poor 
human  nature  are  too  often  allowed  to  exhibit 
themselves  with  alarming  frequency  and  inten- 
sity. There  was  nothing  that  I could  fix  upon 
as  an  evidence  of  hypocrisy  or  of  positive  un- 
fitness for  church  communion ; or  rather,  there 


OUR  LAST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  467 


was  nothing  in  either  more  reprehensible  than  I 
have  witnessed  in  professing  Christians  in  this 
country  whose  standing  in  the  church  is  unques- 
tioned. Tsu  sao-sao  was  frequently  censorious  ; 
she  was  also  unjust  in  her  opinion  of  those  she 
fancied  had  usurped  her  place  in  my  affections ; 
and  in  some  other  respects  I did  not  feel  quite 
satisfied  with  her. 

The  woman  Li  sao-sao,  alluded  to  above,  was 
in  some  respects  a very  interesting  person.  She 
was  a plain  country  woman  of  the  poorer  class,  but 
had  a good  mind  and  more  than  ordinary  common 
sense.  When  she  first  came  to  me  she  had  very 
confused  religious  ideas.  I do  not  think  she  had 
ever  given  much  thought  to  the  subject.  Most 
Chinese  women  are  ready  to  acknowledge  that 
they  are  sinners ; but  Li  sao-sao,  when  I in- 
quired her  opinion  of  herself  in  that  particular, 
told  me  frankly  that  she  did  not  think  she  was  a 
sinner  ; on  the  contrary,  she  considered  herself  a 
very  harmless,  good  sort  of  person.  She  was 
not  in  the  habit  of  lying  or  stealing : she  did  not 
wish  ill  to  any  one ; so  far  as  she  could  see, 
there  was  nothing  in  her  of  a reprehensible 
nature.  When  I suggested  certain  offences,  such 
as  anger,  pride,  etc.,  of  which  every  one,  I 
thought,  was  more  or  less  guilty,  she  did  not 


4G8 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


deny  having  indulged  in  them,  but  so  had  every 
one  else,  and  she  not  more  than  others:  therefore 
there  was  no  sin  in  them.  However,  if  I said 
they  were  wrong,  she  supposed  they  must  be.  I 
noticed  that  from  this  time  she  became  very 
thoughtful,  and  was  evidently  reflecting  upon 
what  she  had  heard ; and  it  was  not  long  before 
she  made  the  discovery  that  her  heart,  which  she 
had  before  supposed  so  delightfully  pure,  had  a 
strange  propensity  to  do  the  things  she  would 
not ; while  the  things  she  would,  she  found  her- 
self totally  unable  to  perform.  I heard  nothing 
more  of  her  blameless  life  and  meritorious  deeds. 
She  had  found  her  need  of  Jesus,  and  I think 
she  sincerely  and  gladly  accepted  his  offer  of 
pardon  and  salvation. 

After  I became  too  unwell  to  go  out  among 
the  women,  I sent  Li  sao-sao  daily ; and  had 
much  comfort  in  feeling  that  she  was,  perhaps, 
able  to  do  quite  as  much  good  as  I could  have 
done,  had  I gone  in  her  stead. 

We  had  but  few  visitors  at  that  time,  the 
effect  of  the  injurious  reports  relating  to  us, 
which  I have  already  mentioned,  not  yet  having 
worn  off. 

Early  in  September,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Roberts, 
from  Shanghai,  visited  Tung-chow  in  the  hope 


OUR  LAST  SUMMER  AT  TUNG-CHOW.  469 


of  benefiting  their  little  daughter,  who  was  ill. 
In  this  they  were  sadly  disappointed,  for  their 
baby  died  a few  hours  after  their  arrival.  The 
next  evening,  at  sunset,  we  made  the  little  grave 
on  the  hill  by  the  sea-side.  Dr.  McCartee  had 
accompanied  the  Robertses  to  Tung-chow,  having 
been  summoned  hither  by  illness  in  one  of  the 
mission  families.  Sixty  miles  in  a mule-litter, 
or  on  horseback,  is  a long  distance  for  a doctor’s 
professional  ride,  or  for  a patient  to  be  carried, 
as  has  several  times  been  necessary  in  order  to 
secure  his  services.  These  journeys  were  a 
great  tax  upon  Dr.  McCartee’s  strength  and 
kindness ; but,  under  the  circumstances,  they 
seemed  unavoidable. 


470 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

SOJOURN  AT  NINGPO. MODES  OF  PREPARING 

TEA  FOR  MARKET. 

On  the  twenty-first  of  September  we  received 
a letter  from  Dr.  McCartee,  informing  us  that 
two  vessels  at  Yentai  were  on  the  point  of  sail- 
ing, the  one  for  Hong-kong,  the  other  for  Amoy, 
in  both  of  which  we  were  kindly  offered  a pas- 
sage down  the  coast.  He  urged  our  accepting 
the  invitation  of  one  or  the  other,  and  without 
delay  trying  the  effect  of  change  and  rest  upon 
my  health. 

After  consulting  with  the  other  missionaries, 
and  having  earnestly  asked  direction  from  Him 
who  so  often,  in  our  lives,  had  verified  the 
promise,  “ In  all  thy  ways  acknowledge  Him, 
and  He  shall  direct  thy  paths,”  we  decided  to 
start  the  next  morning  for  Yentai. 

After  a few  hours  of  busy  preparations,  in 
which  we  were  assisted  by  our  friends,  both 


SOJOURN  AT  NINGPO. 


471 


foreign  and  native,  we  bade  good-by  to  Tung- 
chow.  We  expected  to  be  gone  only  a month 
or  two,  but,  notwithstanding  this,  our  Chinese 
friends,  especially  the  girls  and  the  women, 
seemed  to  feel  our  going  very  much,  and  many 
tears  were  shed. 

We  left  home  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
I in  a shen-tz  or  mule-litter,  and  Mr.  Nevius 
on  horseback.  By  seven  at  evening  we  reached 
Sing-tien,  the  village  where  we  stopped  on  our 
first  journey  to  Tung-chow.  The  inn  seemed 
forbidding  in  the  last  degree,  and  the  air  was  so 
stifling  that  my  lungs  almost  refused  to  breathe 
it.  I was  greatly  relieved  when  Mr.  Nevius  sug- 
gested continuing- our  journey  by  night.  He  left 
his  horse,  and  mounted  a donkey  which  knew 
the  road  so  perfectly  as  to  be  quite  capable  of 
acting  as  our  guide.  The  owner  of  the  don- 
key assured  us  that  if  we  would  allow  it  to  have 
its  own  way  we  need  have  no  fear  of  losing  the 
road ; and  so,  through  all  the  hours  of  that 
dark  night,  we  followed  our  wise  little  leader  up 
hill  and  down,  through  fields  and  over  streams, 
in  narrow,  rocky,  and  precipitous  paths ; some- 
times on  the  edge  of  chasms  and  precipices, 
without  ever  one  mistake.  Brave  little  donkey  ! 
so  patient  and  watchful.  I slept  occasionally, 


472 


OUR  LIRE  IN  CHINA. 


notwithstanding  the  jolting,  and  was  certainly 
not  more  fatigued  than  if  we  had  passed  the 
night  in  that  miserable  inn.  Mr.  Nevius,  how- 
ever, was  completely  tired  out.  At  four  o’clock, 
just  at  daybreak,  we  forded  a small  river.  I 
enjoyed  the  strangeness,  almost  grotesqueness, 
of  our  night  journey  ; but  I do  not  think  I 
should  recommend  it  to  persons  generally,  espec- 
ially invalids.  I found  myself  so  prostrated  as 
to  be  obliged  to  keep  my  bed  most  of  the  time 
for  days  afterwards. 

We  reached  the  McCartees  at  six  o’clock,  and 
were  glad  to  find  our  friends  all  well.  Neither 
of  the  vessels  was  to  sail  for  several  days:  so  we 
need  not  have  hastened  our  leaving  Tung-chow 
as  we  did. 

It  was  decided  that  for  several  reasons  it 
would  be  best  for  us  to  accept  the  invitation  of 
Capt.  King,  of  the  “Agnes,”  whose  wife,  a very 
agreeable  American  lady,  was  with  him.  They 
were  exceedingly  kind  and  hospitable,  and,  had 
it  not  been  for  sea-sickness  and  ill  health,  the 
voyage  would  have  been  a very  pleasant  one. 

The  records  of  the  journey ings  of  an  invalid 
in  search  of  health  are  not  often  very  entertain- 
ing, and  I shall  not  presume  upon  the  patience 
of  my  readers  by  giving  my  experience  at  much 


SOJOURN  AT  NINGPO. 


473 


length.  We  spent  several  weeks  at  Amoy, 
where  we  were  most  hospitably  entertained  by 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cowie,  of  the  English  Presbyte- 
rian Mission,  and  received  many  kindnesses  from 
other  missionaries,  both  English  and  American. 
An  excellent  physician,  who  was  called  in  to  see 
me  soon  after  our  arrival,  took  a discouraging 
view  of  my  health,  and  urged  us  to  give  up  our 
intention  of  remaining  longer  in  China,  and 
return  to  the  United  States  immediately.  I 
did  not  improve  as  I had  hoped  from  the  change 
of  scene  and  air ; but  we  did  not  feel  prepared 
to  decide  at  once  to  leave  China. 

As  you  enter  the  harbor,  Amoy  presents  a 
beautiful  appearance.  Most  of  the  foreign  resi- 
dents live  on  a small,  rocky  island  called  Ku- 
long-su,  and  as  every  one  has  chosen  as  high  and 
airy  a building  site  as  possible,  and  as  the  houses 
are  usually  large,  when  seen  from  the  bay  they 
show  to  good  advantage.  Amoy  is  also  an 
island.  The  town  itself  is  the  most  miserable 
Chinese  city  I ever  saw.  The  streets  are  narrow 
and  filthy.  The  American  missionaries  all  re- 
sided on  the  Amoy  side,  but  their  houses  were 
not  considered  healthy ; indeed,  they  could  not 
have  been  so  in  such  an  unfavorable  location. 

The  missions  at  Amoy  have  been,  in  some 


474 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


respects,  more  favored  than  any  others  in  the 
country.  They  have  large,  self-sustaining 
churches,  and  Christianity  has  taken  deep  hold 
there.  Mr.  Nevius  was  glad  to  have  the  oppor- 
tunity of  familiarizing  himself  with  their  mode 
of  operations,  and  of  witnessing  its  results.  He 
visited  the  churches  in  the  city,  and  also  accom- 
panied some  of  the  missionaries  to  their  distant 
out-stations. 

After  leaving  Amoy,  we  spent  a few  days  in 
Hong-kong,  where  we  were  the  guests  of  my 
old  friend  Mr.  Speiden.  From  there  we  went 
to  Canton.  Mr.  Preston,  of  our  mission,  was  a 
classmate  of  my  husband  in  Princeton ; he  went 
to  China  shortly  after  we  did,  and  it  was  delight- 
ful for  them  to  meet  again  after  their  ten  years’ 
separation. 

Canton  is  a beautiful  city,  very  large  and 
well  built,  superior  to  any  Chinese  town  I had 
before  visited,  except  Hang-chow,  as  it  was  be- 
fore the  rebels  captured  it.  Although  foreign- 
ers have  resided  for  many  years  in  the  suburbs 
of  Canton,  it  is  only  recently  that  the  city  prop- 
er has  been  opened.  Formerly,  no  “outside 
barbarian’  ’ dared  to  venture  within  the  gates ; 

. well  knowing  that  he  would  probably  lose  his 
head,  in  consequence  of  his  temerity,  should  he 


SOJOURN  AT  NINGPO. 


475 


attempt  it.  No w there  seems  no  difference  in 
that  respect  between  this  and  other  cities. 

Although  it  has  not,  thus  far,  proved  a very 
successful  mission-station,  there  have  been,  of 
late  years,  some  more  encouraging  indications. 
Mr.  Nevius  was  particularly  pleased  with  Mr. 
Preston’s  chapel  services,  which  were  well  at- 
tended by  a very  respectable  class  of  persons, 
while  Mr.  Preston  entered  into  his  work  with 
unusual  heartiness  and  spirit. 

The  boarding-schools  of  Mrs.  Bonny  and 
Mrs.  Happer  interested  me  greatly.  The  latter 
had  been  in  China  since  she  was  a child,  and 
was,  consequently,  not  only  perfectly  at  home 
in  the  language,  but  also  in  the  manners  and 
habits  of  the  people ; and  her  influence  over 
them  was  very  great.  Her  school  I thought  a 
model  for  all  others,  at  least  in  many  respects. 
I noticed,  with  particular  pleasure,  the  attention 
she  paid  to  the  manners  of  her  pupils,  never 
allowing  them  to  transgress  their  own  rules  of 
propriety,  or  to  fall  into  habits  which  would 
be  considered  rude  among  their  own  country- 
women. Her  influence  over  them  religiously 
was  also  very  great.  She  entered  into  their 
joys  and  sorrows,  trials  and  temptations,  in 
a most  natural  and  interested  way ; and  they 


476 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


felt  that  in  her  they  had  a faithful,  loving 
friend. 

Another  lady  whose  acquaintance  I made  on 
that  visit  was  Mrs.  Condit,  who  was  loved  and 
admired  by  every  one.  She  was  a devoted 
missionary,  and  had  made  excellent  progress 
in  the  language,  both  written  and  spoken ; and 
by  her  winning  manners  was  particularly  fitted 
to  be  useful  among  Chinese  females. 

Within  a year  or  two  after  our  visit,  both 
of  these  ladies,  so  loved  and  useful,  were 
removed  by  death. 

Among  the  most  valuable  agencies  of  the 
Canton  Mission  has  been  the  hospital,  for  many 
years  under  the  judicious  management  of  Dr. 
Ker.  I am  sure  his  faithful  and  laborious 
efforts  in  connection  with  it  must  yet  meet  with 
an  abundant  reward. 

We  spent  two  or  three  weeks  with  our 
friends  in  Canton,  the  pleasure  of  the  visit 
marred  only  by  my  poor  health,  which  made 
even  the  privilege  of  meeting  persons  whose 
acquaintance  I was  so  glad  to  form,  a very 
weariness. 

In  the  latter  part  of  December  we  sailed  for 
Shanghai  in  an  American  steamer  called  the 
JFoh-kien.  Her  accommodations  were  ample,  and 


SOJOURN  AT  NINGPO. 


477 


the  most  bountiful  provisions  were  made  for  the 
table,  which,  however,  was  very  poorly  patron- 
ized ; for  we  sailed  against  a heavy  monsoon, 
and  the  motion  of  the  vessel  was  such  as  to 
produce  sea-sickness  of  the  worst  character.  I 
was  ill  nearly  all  the  way,  being  seldom  able  to 
leave  my  berth.  It  was  a welcome  relief  when 
we  stopped  a few  hours  at  Fuchow.  This  also 
gave  us  a glimpse  of  the  pleasant  circle  of  mis- 
sionaries there,  who,  as  elsewhere,  were  hard 
and  successfully  at  work.  At  that  time  their 
prospects  seemed  encouraging,  but  a few  weeks 
later  there  was  a singular  outburst  of  feeling 
against  them,  a furious  mob  quite  demolishing 
their  churches,  and  ill-treating  the  native  Chris- 
tians. 

We  reached  Shanghai  on  the  fourth  of  De- 
cember, and  went  at  once  to  the  house  of  Mr. 
Gamble,  my  fellow-passenger  from  the  United 
States,  in  the  N.  B.  Palmer,  seven  years  be- 
fore. He  was  occupying  rooms  over  a church 
situated  in  a busy  street  outside  the  city  walls, 
and  also  somewhat  removed  from  the  foreign 
settlement.  There  being  scarcely  any  native 
families  near,  it  was  rather  an  unpromising 
location  for  missionary  work,  at  least  among  the 
women;  but  as  our  host  was  still  a bachelor, 


478 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


this  mattered  less.  Close  to  the  church  was 
the  press  where  Mr.  Gamble  kept  a large  corps 
of  Chinese  workmen  employed  in  printing  the 
Scriptures  and  religious  books  for  missiona- 
ries all  over  China,  besides  other  miscellaneous 
work. 

While  at  Shanghai,  the  late  Dr.  Henderson, 
a highly  valued  Scotch  physician,  advised  us  so 
strongly  to  return  to  the  United  States,  and 
warned  us  so  earnestly  of  the  danger  of  a long 
delay,  that  we  scarcely  felt  at  liberty  to  further 
discuss  the  matter,  though  it  would  have  been 
Mr.  Nevius’  preference,  as  well  as  my  own,  to 
remain  at  least  a year  or  two  longer  in  China. 

A day  or  two  after  our  arrival,  Mr.  Gamble 
had  the  pleasure  of  welcoming  a much-loved 
sister  from  Ireland,  who  had  come  to  cheer  the 
home  and  heart  of  her  missionary  brother.  And 
a few  days  later  a welcome  reinforcement  of  the 
Tung-chow  mission,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mateer,  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Corbett,  arrived  from  the  United 
States.  Mr.  Corbett  was  very  unwell  when  he 
reached  Shanghai,  his  illness  being  apparently 
due  to  the  miserable  diet  furnished  them  on 
ship-board. 

We  hoped  their  dangers  by  sea  were  over 
when  they  had  reached  Shanghai,  but  shortly 


SOJOURN  AT  NINGPO. 


479 


before  they  arrived  at  Che-foo,  the  steamer  on 
which  they  had  taken  passage  ran  aground,  and 
the  passengers  were  obliged  to  go  on  shore. 
They  walked  for  many  hours,  through  snow 
and  sleet,  before  they  found  a place  of  shelter. 
Then  they  were  received  by  a Chinese  family, 
who  treated  them  very  kindly,  giving  up  their 
own  hangs  for  them  to  rest  upon,  and  offering 
such  food  as  their  house  afforded.  A gun-boat 
went  down  the  next  day  from  Che-foo,  and 
brought  them  all  in  safety  to  their  journey’s 
end,  at  least  to  Che-foo.  Their  long  overland 
trip  to  Tung-chow  had  still  to  be  made. 

When  the  question  of  our  return  home  had 
been  decided,  Mr.  Nevius  concluded  to  go  at 
once  to  Ningpo,  in  order  to  secure  the  aid  of 
trained  native  scholars  to  assist  him  in  finishing 
and  revising  different  works  for  the  press.  He 
felt  that  he  could  not  leave  the  country  without 
accomplishing  this  object,  as  doing  so  might  in- 
volve the  loss  of  years  of  hard  labor. 

We  arrived  at  Ningpo  about  the  first  of  the 
year  1864.  It  was  both  pleasant  and  sad  to  be 
there  again.  Sometimes  the  weight  of  old  asso- 
ciations was  really  oppressive  ; and  we  constantly 
missed  the  dear  familiar  faces  which  used  to 
make  Ningpo  such  a cheerful,  happy  place. 


480 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


Our  mission  at  that  time  consisted  of  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Green,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Morrison,  and  Mr. 
Dodd.  It  seemed  strange  to  find  ourselves  such 
“patriarchs.”  With  one  exception,  there  was 
not  a missionary  at  Ningpo  who  was  there  on 
our  arrival  ten  years  before.  Some  had  removed 
to  other  parts  of  China,  or  returned  to  their 
native  countries,  hut  many  had  died  from  the 
effects  of  climate  or  overwork,  or  more  probably 
from  both  causes  combined,  as  was  the  case  with 
Mi*  Rankin. 

The  native  Christians  met  us  with  hearty  and 
affectionate  welcomes,  and  were  evidently  much 
rejoiced  to  meet  their  old  friend  and  pastor 
“Nee  sin-sang”  again. 

The  three  months  which  we  spent  at  Ningpo 
at  that  time,  though  they  afforded  very  little  of 
general  interest  in  a narrative,  were  a busy  and 
interesting  season  to  us.  I was  not  sure  but 
that,  having  for  so  long  been  accustomed  to 
speaking  only  Mandarin,  our  Ningpo  might  he 
rusty ; but  we  found  no  difficulty  whatever  in 
that  respect. 

My  husband  at  once  commenced  work,  assisting 
wherever  his  services  were  most  required  in  the 
ordinary  employments  of  the  mission.  Mr. 
Green  and  Mr.  Morrison  were  both  only  partially 


SOJOURN  AT  NINGPO. 


481 


recovered  from  long  and  dangerous  illnesses ; 
while  the  duties  which  necessarily  devolved  upon 
them  were  extremely  arduous. 

Shortly  after  reaching  Ningpo,  Mr.  Nevius 
went  with  Mr.  Dodd  to  Bao-ko-tah,  the  nearest 
out-station,  where  he  preached  and  administered 
the  sacrament  of  the  Lord’s  Supper.  At  the 
close  of  the  service  a woman  came  to  them  with 
a singular  case  of  conscience.  She  wished  to 
know  whether  it  was  right  to  think  of  Jesus 
after  she  had  gone  to  bed  at  night.  She  said 
that  by  the  worshippers  of  Veil  it  was  con- 
sidered wrong  to  think  of  him  at  that  time. 
She  also  asked,  whether,  in  case  she  really  had 
no  leisure  for  prayer  in  the  morning,  it  would 
answer  as  well  to  say  two  prayers  at  night. 

Mr.  Nevius  and  Mr.  Dodd  made  several 
visits  to  the  San-poh  stations,  where  they  were 
delighted  to  find  affairs  in  a most  prosperous 
condition.  On  one  of  these  visits  they  assisted 
in  ordaining  Mr.  Zia  to  the  office  of  the  minis- 
try, and  installing  him  pastor  of  one  of  the 
churches ; and  in  ordaining  Kying  Ling-yiu  as 
an  evangelist. 

At  a meeting  of  the  Ningpo  Presbytery,  of 
which  Mr.  Nevius  was  still  a member,  six  can- 
didates— all,  with  one  exception,  graduates  from 
Si 


482 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CniNA. 


the  school  — were  licensed  to  preach  the  gospel. 
This  was  a very  important  measure,  and  has 
been  fraught  with  the  happiest  results.  Presby- 
terianism, as  it  seems  to  me,  is  wonderfully 
adapted  to  the  wants  of  mission  fields.  Its  form 
of  government  is  so  strong  yet  flexible,  and 
suited  to  the  emergencies  of  Christianity  in  its 
infancy ; its  doctrines  are  so  sound  and  whole- 
some, and  its  practices  so  scriptural,  that  it  is 
suited  to  the  wants  of  the  church,  not  less  when 
she  is  coming  up  from  the  wilderness  of  heathen 
error,  than  in  the  lands  where  Christianity  has 
already,  in  a measure,  performed  her  purifying 
and  ennobling  work. 

As  I was  too  unwell,  while  at  Ningpo,  to  at- 
tempt missionary  labor  myself,  I was  glad  to  be 
able  to  do  something  by  proxy.  I was  very 
anxious  to  interest  our  converts,  who  had  been 
trained  in  the  girls’  boarding-school,  in  the  same 
kind  of  work  in  which  I,  and  my  imperfectly 
instructed  women  in  Tung-chow,  had  been  en- 
gaged. I was  so  fortunate  as  to  secure  the  ser- 
vices of  two  young  women  who  had  some  years 
before  completed  their  education  in  the  school. 
One  of  them  was  Kying-lan,  the  wife  of  the 
Elder  and  native  assistant  Yi  Loh-ding,  who  Avas 
carried  off  by  the  rebels.  No  tidings  have  ever 


SOJOURN  AT  NINGPO. 


483 


been  received  from  him,  and  it  is  supposed  that 
he  is  dead.  Kying-lan  had  not  been  considered, 
in  all  respects,  suited  to  this  new  employment, 
but  I was  pleasantly  disappointed  in  her.  She 
was  systematic  and  industrious,  and  her  heart 
seemed  in  her  work.  The  other,  Siu-vong,  was 
a cheerful,  kind-hearted  person,  with  hearty, 
cordial  manners,  well  adapted  to  making  friends. 
Her  husband  was  a heathen,  but  he  had  much 
respect  and  affection  for  his  Christian  wife. 

Siu-vong  and  Kying-lan  sometimes  went  to- 
gether, and  at  other  times  alone,  in  their  visits 
among  the  women.  They  seldom  met  with 
rudeness  or  ill-treatment.  I gave  them  the  re- 
sult of  my  experience  in  that  kind  of  work,  and 
at  first  used  to  direct  very  explicitly  what  they 
should  say,  what  answers  to  make  to  certain  ob- 
jections which  they  would  be  likely  to  meet,  etc., 
etc.  But  I gradually  gained  confidence  in  them, 
as  I found  they  were  very  discreet,  and  succeeded 
well  in  their  new  and  difficult  undertaking. 
They  came  to  me  every  evening,  when  from  their 
lips  I made  a journal  of  their  day’s  work,  noting 
down  just  where  they  had  been,  whom  they  had 
met,  and  sometimes  long  conversations  which  they 
had  held.  I could  do  this,  though  I was  seldom 
able  to  speak  except  in  a whisper.  It  was  as 


484 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


much  for  their  sakes  as  my  own,  as  it  gave  me 
an  opportunity  of  imparting  instruction,  if  they 
needed  it,  and  also  encouragement  if  they  seemed 
at  all  disheartened.  I have  those  journals  still, 
but  as  they  resemble  very  much  my  own  of  a 
similar  nature,  I will  not  insert  them.  After  I 
left  Ningpo,  Mrs.  Green  kindly  took  charge  of 
this  work,  but  Siu-vong’s  husband,  not  very 
long  after,  objected  to  her  continuing  it,  and  she 
was  obliged  to  give  it  up. 

On  my  return  to  China  I hope  to  be  able  to 
do  much,  not  only  myself,  but  in  engaging  our 
native  Christian  women  in  this  department  of 
labor.  The  experiment  has  been  tried  by  vari- 
ous missionary  ladies  who  have  “ Bible  women,” 
as  they  are  sometimes  called,  under  their  super- 
intendence ; and  has  been  found  to  succeed  well. 

I know  of  no  other  way  in  which  Chinese 
women,  in  the  seclusion  of  their  homes,  can  be 
reached.  Either  foreign  or  native  women  must 
go  to  them  with  the  “good  news  ” of  salvation, 
or  the  great  majority  can  never  hear  it. 

I was  much  interested  in  Mrs.  Morrison’s  in- 
dustrial classes,  which  she  was  about  commenc- 
ing at  that  time.  Once  or  twice  a week  she 
would  gather  the  women  of  a certain  locality 
together  for  an  hour  or  two,  paying  them  a 


SOJOURN  AT  NINGPO. 


485 


small  sum,  perhaps  about  two  cents,  for  the  time. 
While  they  sewed,  she,  or  a native  Christian, 
would  read  to,  or  converse  with  them ; giving 
such  instruction  as  they  needed,  in  the  rudiments 
of  Christianity.  The  plan  seemed  to  work  well, 
and  I think  was  adopted  in  other  places  also. 
It,  of  course,  is  suited  only  to  women  of  the 
poorer  class. 

Mr.  Nevius  took  advantage  of  every  leisure 
moment  during  this  sojourn  at  Ningpo,  to  hasten 
forward  the  completion  of  his  books,  having  sev- 
eral teachers  and  scribes  constantly  occupied. 
He  worked  night  and  day,  now  with  one,  now 
with  another,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  crowd- 
ing into  a short  space  of  time  the  work  which 
ought  properly  to  have  occupied  a much  longer 
period.  It  seemed  necessary;  but  the  effort  was 
too  much  for  him,  and  his  health  suffered  in  con- 
sequence for  nearly  a year  after. 

While  at  Ningpo  I could  make  but  few  visits 
of  any  kind,  but  I occasionally  went  out  to  see 
an  old  friend.  I went  again  to  find  my  ah-m , 
Yiang-ko  siao-yi,  who,  as  I mentioned  in  a 
former  chapter,  had  become  insane.  I was 
shown  to  the  door  of  her  room,  which  she  always 
kept  closed  and  bolted.  It  was  thought  doubt- 
ful whether  she  would  open  it,  but  when  told 


486 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


that  it  was  I,  she  allowed  me  to  enter.  She  was 
the  saddest  creature  I ever  saw,  and  it  appeared 
to  me  that  her  mental  derangement  was  un- 
doubtedly a species  of  religious  melancholy. 
While  I was  with  her  she  constantly  repeated 
the  words,  “ Eyiu  fell  Ice  ! Kyiu  fell  Ice  1 ” “ I 
cannot  be  saved ! I cannot  be  saved.”  She 
seemed  pleased  to  see  me,  but  I left  her  with  a 
heavy  heart,  her  case  appeared  so  hopeless. 
Her  friends  said  that  she  often  urged  them  to 
repent  of  their  sins  and  believe  in  Jesus,  even 
while  for  herself  she  felt  there  was  no  hope 
whatever. 

One  day,  in  the  latter  part  of  March,  Mr. 
Nevius  and  myself  visited  an  extensive  estab- 
lishment where  tea  is  prepared  for  the  foreign 
market.  We  had  often  witnessed  the  process  of 
tea-picking  on  the  hills  in  the  vicinity  of  Ning- 
po,  where  it  grows  in  large  quantities ; but  we 
had  never  given  much  attention  to  the  final 
processes  necessary  to  fit  it  for  exportation  to 
distant  lands.  That  used  by  the  natives  is  pre- 
pared in  a more  simple  way.  We  found  in  this 
establishment  eight  or  ten  long  ranges,  each 
with  twelve  or  more  deep,  iron  pans,  with  appa- 
ratus for  heating  them  underneath.  In  these 
pans  the  leaves,  after  having  been  carefully 


MODES  OF  PREPARING  TEA. 


487 


assorted  and  wilted,  are  heated  over  a slow  fire, 
a man  standing  by,  who,  with  the  palm  of  his 
hand,  lightly  stirs  the  whole  with  an  even  rotary 
motion.  In  answer  to  our  questions,  a man  con- 
nected with  this  establishment  gave  us  a good 
deal  of  information  upon  this  subject,  which,  by 
the  way,  I find  interests  many  people  who  pro- 
fess entire  indifference  to  most  other  matters 
connected  with  China  and  the  Chinese  race.  I 
wish,  for  the  sake  of  such,  that  I were  more  cm 
fait  in  the  subject.  From  all  which  I have 
been  able  to  learn,  I think  there  can  be  no  doubt 
that  both  black  and  green  teas  can  be  made  from 
the  same  plant,  by  varying  the  mode  of  preparation 
and  the  time  of  gathering  it.  The  young  and 
tender  leaves  are  much  valued  by  the  natives, 
who  invariably  drink  their  tea  without  either 
milk  or  sugar ; but  that  variety,  I think,  would 
not  be  a favorite  in  Western  lands.  It  is  nearly 
colorless,  and  has  a very  delicate  flavor.  It  is 
very  expensive  even  in  China.  The  Chinese 
never  boil  their  tea,  as  is  common  in  this  country. 
They  make  an  infusion  of  it  by  pouring  boiling 
water  upon  the  leaves,  allowing  it  to  stand  a few 
moments  before  it  is  used.  It  is  usually  made 
in  the  cups  from  which  it  is  drunk.  A small 
quantity  of  leaves  having  been  placed  in  the 


488 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CniNA. 


bottom,  the  cup  is  filled  with  boiling  water,  and 
the  saucer  is  placed  over  the  top  while  it  “draws.’’ 
Davis,  in  his  work  on  China,  says,  “ The  speci- 
mens brought  from  the  black  and  green  tea 
countries  differ  slightly  in  the  leaf;  the  latter 
being  a thinner  leaf,  rather  lighter  in  color  and 
longer  in  shape  than  the  other.  But,  besides 
this,  the  great  difference  in  the  preparation  con- 
tributes to  mark  the  distinctions  between  the  two 
kinds  of  the  manufactured  article ; for  the 
Chinese  themselves  acknowledge  that  cither 
black  or  green  tea  may  be  prepared  from  any 
tea  plant.  The  green  teas  are  less  subjected  to 
the  action  of  fire  than  the  black,  and  therefore 
retain  more  of  their  original  color  ; but  they  are 
at  the  same  time  infinitely  more  liable  to  suffer 
from  time  and  damp.  If  the  two  kinds  of  tea- 
leaves  are  examined  after  having  been  expanded 
in  hot  water,  it  will  be  observed  that  the  black 
contain  the  stems  of  the  leaves  as  well  as  a por- 
tion of  the  stalks  on  which  they  grew,  while  the 
hyson  (green)  leaves  have  generally  been  pinched 
off  above  the  leaf-stem.  The  black  tea  thus 
contains  much  of  the  woody  fibre,  while  the 
fine  green  is  exclusively  the  fleshy  part  of  the 
leaf  itself,  which  is  one  good  reason  why  it 
should  be  dearer.”  We  were  also  told,  at  that 


MODES  OF  PREPARING  TEA. 


489 


establishment  in  Ningpo,  that  a foreign  coloring 
ingredient  is  usually  introduced  into  the  green 
teas  to  improve  their  color,  but  that  it  is  in  very 
minute  quantities  and  of  a harmless  character. 
I suppose  there  is  no  doubt  that  “ Prussian 
blue ,”  which  is  certainly  far  from  being  innox- 
ious, has  sometimes  been  employed ; but  it  must 
have  been  in  very  small  quantities.  Gypsum, 
and  I think  indigo  also,  have  sometimes  been 
used  to  improve  the  color,  if  not  the  quality, 
of  our  favorite  beverage. 

Americans  have  the  credit  of  bringing  about 
this  bad  habit  of  coloring  the  teas.  It  is  said 
that  years  ago,  when  foreign  trade  was  princi- 
pally with  Canton,  the  supply  of  green  teas, 
which  alone  were  desired  in  the  American  mar- 
ket, was  altogether  insufficient  to  meet  the 
demand.  American  sailing-vessels  were  obliged 
to  leave  within  a certain  time,  and  they  were 
determined  not  to  go  without  their  cargoes,  and 
the  Chinese  were  naturally  equally  desirous 
that  they  should  be  supplied.  So  they  went  to 
work  manufacturing  green  varieties  out  of  old 
black,  and  in  some  cases  damaged  tea-leaves; 
using,  not  very  sparingly,  u Prussian  blue  ” 
and  “ gypsum .”  Of  late  years,  since  other 
parts  of  the  empire  have  been  opened  to  foreign 


490 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


commerce,  and  the  demand  is  so  equally  divided 
between  black  and  green  varieties,  there  can  be 
no  such  irresistible  temptation  to  the  manufac- 
ture of  either  one  kind  or  the  other. 

The  black  teas,  at  least  some  varieties,  in  the 
process  of  preparation,  are  trodden  by  barefooted 
men,  and  when  finally  ready  for  market  go 
through  a similar  process  as  they  are  being 
placed  in  chests.  Davis  says,  “ The  tea,  when 
prepared,  is  first  of  all  put  up  in  baskets,  and 
subsequently  packed  by  the  contractors  in  chests 
and  canisters.  The  black  teas  are  trodden 
down  with  the  feet  to  make  them  pack  closer; 
but  the  green  tea-leaves  would  be  crushed  and 
broken  by  so  rude  a process ; they  are  accord- 
ingly only  shaken  into  the  chests.”  Our  in- 
formant at  the  Ningpo  tea  bong  assured  us  that 
hogs’-blood  is  often  used  in  the  preparation  of 
black  teas. 

In  “Doolittle’s  Social  Life  of  the  Chinese” 
I find  the  following  account  of  the  method  of 
preparing  Cango  as  witnessed  in  a tea-district 
near  Fucbau:  “1.  The  leaves  are  exposed  in 
the  sun  or  in  any  airy  place.  The  object  of  this 
is  not  to  dry  them,  but  only  to  wilt  them  slowly 
and  thoroughly.  2.  A quantity  of  leaves  thus 
wilted  are  put  into  a shallow  vessel  usually  made 


MODES  OF  PREPARING  TEA. 


491 


of  the  splints  of  the  bamboo,  and  trodden  down 
together  for  a considerable  time  until  all  the 
fibres  and  stems  of  the  leaves  are  broken.  The 
object  is  simply  to  break  the  stiff  parts  or  fibres. 
Men  barefooted  are  employed  to  do  this  work, 
because  the  Chinese  do  not  appear  to  have  found 
a more  convenient,  expeditious,  and  effective 
method  of  attaining  the  object  in  view.  It  does 
not  seem  to  them  a filthy  and  objectionable 
operation.  3.  These  leaves  are  then  rolled  in  a 
particular  manner  by  the  hands  of  the  operator. 
The  object  is  solely  to  cause  them  to  take  a 
round  and  spiral  form.  If  not  rolled  in  this 
way  they  would  remain  flat,  — a shape  not  adapt- 
ed to  the  foreign  market.  While  lying  on  the 
vessel  the  hands,  spread  out,  are  passed  around 
sometimes  in  a circular  manner  parallel  to  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel,  lightly  touching  the  leaves. 
4.  They  are  now  placed  in  a heap  to  heat  for 
half  an  hour  or  longer,  until  they  become  of  a 
reddish  appearance.  5.  The  leaves  are  then 
spread  out  in  the  sun,  or  in  a light  and  airy 
place,  and  left  to  dry.  They  must  be  thoroughly 
dried,  else  they  would  mould  and  become  unfit 
for  the  foreign  market.  6.  The  leaf  is  next 
sold  to  the  agents  of  foreigners,  or  to  native 
dealers,  who  take  it  away  to  expend  a great  deal 


492 


OUR  LIRE  IN  CHINA. 


of  labor  upon  it  before  it  is  shipped  to  foreign 
countries.  It  is  sifted  on  coarse  sieves,  and 
picked  over  several  times  in  order  to  separate  the 
different  qualities,  to  remove  the  stems,  the  large 
or  flat  leaves,  etc.  The  large  leaves  are  put  by 
themselves,  and  the  small  by  themselves.  It  is 
dried  several  times  over  slow  fires  in  iron  pans, 
in  order  to  prevent  its  spoiling  through  moist- 
ure, according  to  circumstances,  as  the  weather, 
length  of  time  on  hand,  etc.,  seem  to  require.” 

Other  varieties  differ  considerably  in  their 
preparation,  but  this  one  description  gives  a 
sufficiently  correct  idea  of  the  whole. 

The  tea  plant  is  a shrub,  which  seen  at  a dis- 
tance resembles  somewhat  the  common  currant- 
bush.  Its  blossom  is  very  like  that  of  the  ca- 
mellia japonica.  “ The  camellia  bears  the  same 
name  among  the  Chinese  as  the  tea  shrub,  and 
possesses  most  of  its  botanical  characters.”  . . 
“ The  picking  of  the  leaves  is  usually  performed 
by  women  and  children,  who  can,  in  this  business, 
earn  from  three  to  six  cents  a day. 

“ There  are  three  seasons  for  picking  the  leaves, 
namely,  in  the  third,  fifth,  and  eighth  Chinese 
months,  when  each  shrub  is  picked  over  at  in- 
tervals of  ten  or  fifteen  days,  two  or  three  times 
or  more,  according  to  its  thriftiness,  and  the 


MODES  OF  PREPARING  TEA. 


493 


demand  in  market  for  the  dried  leaf.  If  there  is 
no  prospect  of  selling  the  tea  at  a profit  the  leaf 
is  not  picked.  A pound  of  green  leaves  makes 
only  about  three  or  four  ounces  of  tea.  The 
first  picking  is  the  best  and  commands  the  high- 
est price.” 

So  much  for  the  tea  plant.  If  I have  failed 
to  give  a correct  idea  of  its  culture  or  prepara- 
tion, I hope  that  I may  be  excused  on  the  ground 
that  other  duties  and  interests  in  China  were  of 
so  much  more  imperative  a nature  as  to  prevent 
my  giving  much  attention  to  other  matters,  even 
to  one  of  such  general  interest  as  this. 


494 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

TRIP  UP  THE  RIVER  YIANG-TSE.  — LEAVING 
CHINA. 

About  the  first  of  March  we  returned  to 
Shanghai  in  one  of  Dent  & Co’s  steamers,  a 
free  passage  having  been  politely  proffered  us. 
It  was  with  sincere  regret  that  we  parted  from 
our  Ningpo  friends,  both  native  and  foreign, 
who  had  done  so  much  to  make  our  sojourn  with 
them  pleasant.  Mr.  Dodd  accompanied  us  to 
the  boat ; and  late  in  the  evening,  before  the 
steamer  weighed  anchor,  Mr.  Green  and  Mr. 
Morrison,  who  had  just  returned  from  an  itiner- 
ating tour,  came  a long  way  down  to  the  anchor- 
age to  bid  us  good-by. 

We  had  hoped  to  engage  passage  from 
Shanghai  direct  to  New  York,  or,  failing  in 
that,  to  be  able  to  find  a ship  going  to  Califor- 
nia. But  we  were  disappointed,  as  there  was 
scarcely  a vessel  of  any  kind  at  that  time  bound 
either  for  New  York  or  San  Francisco.  The 
privateers  of  the  “Southern  Confederacy”  had 


TRIP  UP  THE  RIVER  YIANG-TSE.  495 


carried  on  their  business  so  successfully  as  to 
drive  nearly  every  merchant  vessel  carrying  the 
United  States  flag  out  of  those  waters.  Undei 
these  circumstances,  we  thought  very  seriously 
of  returning  to  Tung-chow,  and  waiting  for  bet- 
ter  times.  Dr.  Henderson,  who  himself,  a few 
months  afterwards,  fell  a victim  to  the  climate, 
urged  the  necessity  of  our  leaving  China  with  as 
little  delay  as  possible,  cautioning  us  against 
the  risk  of  remaining  through  the  unhealthy 
season.  We  felt  the  importance  of  his  advice, 
and  would  have  left  sooner  had  there  been  a 
suitable  opportunity.  At  length,  after  much 
detention,  and  visiting  and  making  inquiries  on 
board  a great  many  ships,  Mr.  Nevius  secured 
passage  for  ourselves,  and  Mrs.  Rankin  and  her 
children,  who  were  to  accompany  us,  in  an  Eng- 
lish vessel  bound  for  London.  It  seemed  a very 
roundabout  way  of  reaching  home  to  have  to  go 
first  to  England,  and  a few  years  earlier  or  later 
there  would  have  been  no  such  necessity.  It 
was  one  of  the  many  ways  in  which,  even  in 
China,  we  were  made  to  realize  the  existence  of 
‘‘the  great  rebellion.” 

While  waiting  for  our  vessel  to  sail,  we  were 
invited  by  Mr.  Tyers,  of  “ Olyphant  & Co.,”  to 
take  a trip  up  the  River  Yiang-tse  to  Han-kao. 


496 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


We  were  glad  to  avail  ourselves  of  this  favorable 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  interior  of  China,  and 
making  observations  and  investigations  respecting 
its  advantages  for  missionary  efforts.  We  went 
on  board  the  steamer  late  one  Monday  evening 
in  the  latter  part  of  May,  and  the  next  morning 
got  under  way.  I was  ill  the  first  day,  and 
not  able  to  leave  my  berth ; but  that  mattered 
less,  as  the  scenery  we  were  passing  was  tame 
and  uninteresting.  The  first  night  we  reached 
Chin-kiang,  one  of  the  newly  opened  ports.  It 
i3  not  now  a place  of  much  wealth  or  influence, 
but  formerly  was  large  and  flourishing,  with  a 
population  estimated  at  500,000.  It  was  cap- 
tured by  the  rebels  the  year  before  we  reached 
China.  They  held  it  for  three  years,  when, 
owing  to  supplies  failing,  they  were  obliged  to 
evacuate  it.  Looking  from  my  window,  I could 
see  by  the  moonlight  a background  of  hills,  the 
irregular  wall  of  a Chinese  city,  and  one  large 
foreign  house  upon  the  hill-side.  That,  I be- 
lieve, was  the  custom-house.  Most  of  the  few 
foreign  residents  lived  in  boats,  or  the  hulks  of 
old  vessels  fitted  up  as  residences. 

The  next  day,  at  noon,  we  passed  the  city  of 
Nankin.  Its  walls,  which  are  about  fifteen 
miles  in  circumference,  run,  in  some  places, 


TRIP  UP  THE  RIVER  YIANG-TSE.  497 


close  to  the  water’s  edge,  and,  in  others,  stretch 
far  away  over  high  hills,  enclosing  miles  and 
miles  of  unoccupied  ground,  and  cultivated 
fields,  or  gardens.  More  than  ten  years  pre- 
vious Nankin  had  been  captured  by  the  insur- 
gents, and  a great  part  of  the  time  since  then 
the  Imperialists  had  been  closely  besieging  it. 
As  we  passed,  we  could  see  the  long  lines  of 
tents  belonging  to  the  besieging  army,  which, 
like  a great  boa-constrictor,  was  coiled  around 
the  ill-fated  city.  The  rebels  were  known  to  be 
hard  pressed  for  provisions,  and  it  was  not  sup- 
posed they  could  hold  out  much  longer.  Only 
a little  frontage  on  the  river  was  left  them,  and 
they  evidently  made  the  most  of  that  for  fishing. 
Close  to  the  wall  of  the  city  is  a narrow  stream, 
upon  one  side  of  which  were  the  Imperialists,  on 
the  other  the  rebels. 

Early  Thursday  morning  we  passed  the  fine 
old  city  of  Ngan-kin,  sometimes  called  by  for- 
eigners Gan-kin.  It  lies  on  the  northern  shore, 
and  is  the  capital  of  Ngan-hwe  province,  which  we 
entered,  not  far  from  it.  This  city  was  then  the 
residence  of  one  of  the  highest  insurgent  chiefs. 

On  the  afternoon  of  that  day  we  passed  one 
of  the  most  interesting  objects  of  the  whole 
route,  the  “ Siao  kwu-san,”  “ Little  Orphan,” 
32 


498 


OUR  LIRE  IN  CHINA. 


a most  singular  island  lying  midway  in  tlie 
river.  It  rises  abruptly  from  the  waves,  one 
towering  rock  two  or  three  hundred  feet  high. 
On  its  summit  is  a small  temple,  or  idol  shrine, 
and  somewhat  lower  down  is  a larger  building, 
evidently  of  the  same  character.  These  can  be 
approached  only  by  steps  hewn  in  the  rock.  I 
was  surprised  to  see  in  such  a rocky  place  an 
abundance  of  beautiful  foliage.  An  hour  or 
two  after  leaving  this  pretty  spot,  we  discovered 
the  entrance  of  the  Poyang  Lake,  and  had  a 
glimpse  of  another  island  called  !<  Ta  kwu-san,” 
the  “Larger  Orphan,”  also  apparently  a high 
precipitous  rock.  Like  its  young  sister  just 
mentioned,  it  evidently  is  not  altogether  neg- 
lected, as  its  brow  is  crowned  by  a towering 
pagoda.  They  are  both,  no  doubt,  appropriated 
by  the  Buddhists. 

It  was  evening  when  we  reached  Kyiu-kiang, 
where  the  steamer  anchored  a short  time.  There 
were  here  only  a few  foreign  houses,  but  those 
few  were  large  and  conspicuous,  and,  seen  from 
the  river  presented  a fine  appearance.  There 
was  not  one  European  lady  living  there. 

The  next  afternoon  (Friday)  we  reached 
Han-kow,  our  journey’s  end.  While  there,  we 
were  the  guests  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John,  of  the 


TRIP  UP  THE  RIVER  YIANG-TSE.  499 


London  Mission.  They  had  visited  us  several 
years  before,  while  we  were  living  at  Hang-chow. 
We  seemed  destined  to  meet  in  out-of-the-way 
places.  Their  new  mission  at  Han-kow  had 
commenced  most  prosperously,  and  at  that  early 
date  gave  indications,  since  fully  verified,  of 
being  a station  of  no  ordinary  interest.  Mr.  Cox, 
and  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Schmidt,  of  the  English 
Wesleyan  Society,  were  the  only  other  mission- 
aries located  there. 

Han-kow  is  situated  on  the  Yiang-tse  Kiang, 
six  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth,  at  the  point 
of  its  confluence  with  the  River  Han.  Seven 
years  before  our  visit  it  had  been  completely 
destroyed  by  the  rebels,  only  one  house,  we 
were  told,  having  been  left  standing.  But,  as 
if  by  magic,  it  had  already  recovered  itself,  and 
was  again  a place  of  much  commercial  impor- 
tance. It  is  compactly  built,  extending  at  that 
time  for  at  least  five  miles  along  the  banks  of 
the  Han  and  Yiang-tse  Rivers.  It  was,  how- 
ever, narrow,  in  comparison  to  its  width.  Its 
population  was  very  great,  about  four  hundred 
thousand.  It  had  few  objects  of  interest,  such 
as  temples,  gardens,  or  fine  streets,  which  are 
usually  found  in  Chinese  cities  of  equal  size; 


500 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


but  that  -was  not  to  be  expected  in  a place  of  its 
character  and  recent  growth. 

Opposite  Han-kow,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river  Han,  is  the  smaller  city  of  Han-yiang.  It 
also  was  ruined  by  the  rebels,  and  has  been  only 
partially  restored. 

Across  the  Yiang-tse,  which  is  at  that  point 
three  quarters  of  a mile  wide,  is  Wu-chang,  the 
capital  of  the  Hoopeh  province.  “ Its  hills  ter- 
raced with  houses,  and  crowned  with  pagodas, 
and  its  double  wall  lining  the  margin  of  the 
river,  with  towers,  gateways,  and  bastions,  all 
combine  to  give  it  an  imposing  and  majestic  ap- 
pearance.” The  situation  of  these  three  cities, 
Wu-chang,  Han-yiang,  and  Han-kow,  reminded 
us  somewhat  of  New  York,  Brooklyn,  and 
Jersey  City,  but  the  river  Han  is  much  nar- 
rower than  the  East  River  separating  New  York 
and  Brooklyn.  Indeed,  it  is  here  so  narrow 
that  one  might  easily  throw  a stone  across  it. 
It  varies  from  a hundred  to  a hundred  and 
fifty  yards  in  width.  But  it  is  very  deep,  and 
is  navigable  for  hundreds  of  miles  beyond  this 
point.  Navigation  of  the  Yiang-tse  is  made 
difficult,  if  not  impossible,  by  rapids,  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  above  Han-kow. 

The  population  of  these  three  cities  combined 


TRIP  UP  THE  RIVER  YIANG-TSE.  501 


Pere  Hue  estimated  at  eight  millions  ; but  I fear 
the  “ good  father  ” was  either  fond  of  making 
a large  story,  or  else,  like  myself,  was  unskilled 
in  the  art  of  computation.  Half  that  estimate 
would  not  have  been  a small  one.  A modern 
English  traveller  says,  “Perhaps  their  united 
population  may  have  equalled  that  of  London, 
but  certainly  never  exceeded  it.”  I,  however, 
think  that  in  the  good  days  of  old,  before  the 
“ troublesome  pests  ” (as  the  imperialists  style 
the  rebels)  had  ravaged  that  fair  region,  this 
wonderful  place  may  have  had  the  presumption 
to  “more  than  equal  London .” 

The  current  is  so  strong  in  the  Yiang-tse  that 
few  native  vessels  were  anchored  in  it,  but  the 
Han  for  a long  distance  was  crowded  with  junks 
and  lighter  craft.  There  is  not  much  foreign 
shipping  at  Han-kow,  but  large  river  steamers 
constantly  ply  between  that  place  and  Shanghai ; 
and  merchant  vessels  also,  some  of  heavy  draft,  go 
there  to  take  in  cargoes  for  America  and  England. 

From  what  we  saw  of  Han-kow  we  were  con- 
vinced that  it  is  not  only  a very  important  com- 
mercial centre,  but  also  an  equally  important 
one  for  missions.  No  American  society  had 
then,  or  has  yet,  any  mission  on  this  great  river. 
It  seems  lamentable  that  while  merchants  of  all 


502 


OUR,  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


sorts,  with  praiseworthy  energy,  have  taken 
advantage  at  once  of  these  promising  openings 
for  commerce,  the  church  has  been  so  remiss  in 
her  efforts  to  plant  in  them  the  standard  of  the 
cross.  Plenty  of  men  and  plenty  of  money 
seem  always  at  the  beck  and  call  of  commerce ; 
but  neither  men  nor  money  are  often  ready  when 
Christ  by  his  providence  says,  “ I have  opened 
the  way : enter  in  and  possess  the  land  for  me.” 
Why  is  it? 

Our  voyage  up  the  Great  River  had  not  been 
slow,  but  our  return,  owing  to  the  strong  current, 
was  exceedingly  rapid.  We  spent  part  of  a day 
at  Kyiu-kiang,  taking  tiffin  with  a friend  on 
shore,  who  also  accompanied  us  in  a walk 
through  the  city, — that  is,  the  gentlemen  walked; 
I was  in  a sedan.  We  gained  the  highest  point 
of  a hill  within  the  walls,  which  afforded  a bird’s- 
eye  view  of  the  whole  vicinity.  The  walls  are 
extensive  and  the  city  is  pleasantly  situated,  but 
now,  like  nearly  all  in  this  region,  it  bears  sad 
testimony  to  the  reckless  character  of  the  rebels, 
who  a few  years  since  held  possession  of  it.  The 
houses  are  wonderfully  few.  Its  population  must 
at  present  be  small,  for  which  reason  I suppose 
it  will  not  be  likely  to  be  chosen  as  a mission 
station.  But  it  would  seem  as  if  there  ought  to 


TRIP  UP  THE  RIVER  YIANG-TSE.  503 


be  at  least  one  or  two  missionaries  there.  It  is 
sad  to  think  of  its  being  left  without  any  attempt 
made  for  the  good  of  its  inhabitants.  But  it, 
alas ! is  only  one  of  thousands  of  cities  in  this 
vast  empire  which  have  never  yet  heard  the 
“ good  news  ” of  a Saviour.  Ever  since  our  visit 
to  Han-kow  I have  had  a strong  desire  to  live 
and  labor  in  some  place  in  these  remote  inland 
provinces,  either  to  follow  the  Yiang-tse  still  fur- 
ther towards  its  source,  or  to  seek  a home  on  the 
shores  of  the  spirited  Han. 

I have  heard  old  sea-captains,  who  were  famil- 
iar with  the  noble  Mississippi,  express  the 
opinion  that  both  for  beauty  and  purposes  of 
commerce,  that  river  is  inferior  to  the  Yiang-tse 
kiang,  or  Ta-kiang  (Great  River)  as  it  is  as 
often  called  in  China.  They  seem  to  me  very 
much  alike.  The  banks  of  both  are  often  low 
and  uninteresting,  and  navigation  on  both  re- 
quires the  aid  of  a good  pilot  acquainted  with 
the  channel.  I do  not  think  there  are  as  many 
lagoons  and  marshes  on  the  Ta-kiang  as  on  the 
shores  of  the  Mississippi ; but  still  in  certain 
parts  there  are  not  a few  of  these. 

The  “ Robert  Low,”  in  which  our  passage 
had  been  engaged,  returned  from  Hang-kow, 
where  she  had  been  taking  in  a cargo  of  tea, 


504 


OUR  LIFE  IN  CHINA. 


shortly  after  our  arrival  in  Shanghai,  but  did 
not  sail  for  England  until  the  first  of  J uly . It 
was  with  mingled  feelings  of  sorrow  and  pleasure 
that  we  prepared  for  a homeward  voyage.  The 
prospect  of  meeting  our  parents  and  other  loved 
friends,  on  the  shores  of  our  native  land,  was 
truly  delightful ; but  the  necessity  of  bidding 
farewell  to  China,  dear  China,  was  most  painful ; 
and  for  the  time  feelings  of  intense  sorrow  and 
regret  predominated.  Our  missionaries  in  Shang- 
hai, and  also  some  valued  acquaintances  among 
the  merchants,  had  shown  us  every  kindness, 
and  we  felt  most  sadly  to  part  with  them ; while 
Ningpo  on  the  south,  and  Tung-chow  on  the 
north,  almost  equally  divided  -our  affection  and 
our  regret  at  leaving  them.  But  at  length  the 
farewell  words  were  spoken,  the  anchor  was 
weighed,  and  we  bade  adieu  to  Shanghai;  a 
little  more  than  ten  years  after  our  first  arrival 
there. 


THE  END. 


530  Broadway,  New  York, 

October , 1875. 


Ro  bert  Carter  & Brothers' 
NEW  BOOKS. 


FORTY  YEARS  IN  THE  TURKISH  EMPIRE. 

Memoirs  of  Rev.  William  Goodell,  late  Missionary  at  Constantinople. 
By  E.  D.  G.  Prime,  D.D.  £2.50. 


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